It belongs to more than 100 square meters in Henan
As a peppery soup lover, my classmate's mother gave me enlightenment. Her winter and summer stalls, my ignorance is a contempt for business, glad that I don't have to go to school to help the family pick up the stalls, or only a bowl of her own peppery soup in the morning - there is no choice. Like my classmates, I can also choose the mipi of another classmate's mother. It's a little cool in winter. The advantage of peppery soup is warmth, the disadvantage is that it is easy to get hungry. Until I couldn't remember what year I ate the first bowl of meatball peppery soup, I thought that I had been the original source ever since.
It was the People of Henan who invented it, and spread its branches and leaves, and was transformed into Xi'an, becoming a kind of brewing method of "Steamed Capital". Every time I came home, the first breakfast was almost always in front of the back of the man with a steel hair, a large bowl, "two steamed buns". Fathers often "forget it, I'll still have a tofu brain." Over the years, this shop called "Hao Laosi" has moved farther and farther away from my house, and his beard has gradually grayed. He certainly didn't recognize me, and if he remembered, I certainly wasn't a guy.
There are basically no meatballs and peppery soup in Beijing, even if I have it, I don't have to try. Just like a random noodle restaurant in Beilin District will be able to dominate the capital, this does not accept rebuttal. And in the places where people are wandering around, there are always some beads scattered, with the mirror image of local glory.
Taking my office as the coordinates, the straight-line distance on both sides is less than five hundred meters, and there are two peppery soups, which I understand is at least to feed the nearby Henan compatriots. For me, who has no patience to queue up, it is not the target group at all.
Both are in the style of Runaway Town, which is considered the cosmic center of peppery soup, with a "light coffee" silky smoothness, the subtle thrill of pepper on the tip of your tongue, and the soothing of the morning... In fact, it is a broth with tofu, yellow flowers, and fungus, and the pepper is boldly shelved, but it cannot be lumped. Early in the morning, if only it were your turn to listen to the Henan dialect " Why eat?" Beware of being late—the queue is in line.
The difference between the two is not just about taste. In the south, the head of the treasurer's side is definitely a good one - every time he hooks up, he has to go up to the second floor to get started himself. The mysterious place is full of fried buns filled with meat and vegetarians – leek eggs or beef scallions – and the benefits are varied. When I didn't have a chance to have breakfast, I would occasionally "dry" it up as lunch in the last moment before he closed at noon. He knew me because I used to settle the account and pay, and everyone else would say it after eating. It was supposed to be his wife—or a sister—with sharp hands and feet, talking kindly. The original southern big sister, although she had a good working atmosphere with him, was obviously contrary to the temperament of Hu Spicy Soup. Strange, why didn't he fry fritters?
The praiseworthy one in the west is the "golden wire fritters", which are more porcelain than most of the stout colleagues who are suspicious, and can be soaked in peppery soup, which makes me nostalgic for the basic operation of the "Steamed Buns" breakfast. Business here is also better in the morning, followed by beef noodles at noon, and dinner bowls have to be on top. But I can't always compare it to the obvious difference between it and the one in the southeast direction. To say that there is, is that the big sister inside is stronger. Once she counted the masters of fried fritters, this is not the wrong one: "You when I am blind!" "I'm afraid it's over today. However, the master was still calm and relaxed, and bent his eyebrows: "Add a tea egg?" ”
The combined area of the two stores is more than 100 square meters, and it is a stone's throw away from the Henan office. The chisel soup in the mansion was like a handicraft, worn in an overly comfortable chair while it was hot, like a boot tickling.
County Lamb Office
When Bo said "county lamb office" very seriously, I couldn't figure out if he was joking. They are all in their eighties, and when they talk to me, they are still like forty years ago, but their appetite is still very good, and a sea of bowls of clear soup with meat added: "Why don't you eat two (burnt cakes)?" You look at one semicircle, two are only a full circle. "Our baked cake in Dali County is like this, exquisite, just for the sake of more meat, that type of non-heritage with ancient atmosphere."
The standard feature of this half-moon-shaped roast cake is lamb in the water basin or marinade meat. Especially the former is spectacular. Weinan counties, in the category of water basin mutton one does not obey one. I want to say, of course, Dali is good, do you see the "mutton to do". In my uncle's words: "You see this thing is very strong( important) and not strong." "There are hundreds of water basin mutton shops in urban and rural areas, except for the Spring Festival, all year round. That pot of soup, some people love cumin out of the head, some pepper makes "strong", and some spice balance, better than the kung fu of baking cakes... The fresh soup of lamb and lamb bones, after adding money, will add meat to upgrade to "high quality", and the window that is desirable is immediately waiting for it, and it is filled with mouth-watering steam. When the business is busy, there is a punk-like grumpy voice: "Who's it! Hurry! "Chafu-style cute frisks, does not affect the business depression quiet as a virgin' sluggishness.
At least the literature says that since the Ming Dynasty, Tongzhou (Dali) Chaoyi (now one of the towns of Dali) has had water basin mutton. Several other counties are said to have "literature" to support this. Elaborate, after the soup is in place, two fingers pinch the two corners of the baked cake, the hot air sprays thin from the middle line, and then the oil is poured spicy seeds to make the bottom, and the lamb in the soup is full. Not busy, first take a bite of soup, and then take a bite of "Half Moon". Of course, you have to peel the garlic head-on. When it comes to the second cake, break a large piece and soak it in the remaining soup, the average person is almost full of trenches. I can eat "double combination" (two sets of so and so), and I have the impression that my uncle counted one when he was young. Mention of the so-called lamb steamed bun – the kind of boiled bun in Xi'an – one can often hear the disapproval of calling it "steamed paste" or "dumplings".
Growing up, I've eaten more than a dozen basins of lamb, from the muddy streets of townships to the sophisticated faces that can be paid for on WeChat. About those good mornings, I will think of it all in one bite. I was deeply impressed by the death of my grandmother that year, and the long funeral etiquette was strictly arranged. It was cold, shivering with cold. After those few days, when I went to eat at a house that had now closed down, I pulled out the cold air when the hot soup was boarded, and my fingertips slowly warmed up. The body is comfortable, but the sadness comes up, remembering the jokes she told when she was alive, there was a sentence: "The least is the white meat fat and spicy (oily) that is the least." ”
Regardless of winter or summer, our early mornings are precious in the gathering, going to every restaurant where they feel that the taste is unparalleled, giving a good look at the present, and involuntarily returning to the past. The morning my daughter stared wide-eyed at the huge bowl, I saw that the pagoda outside the door was not as majestic as I remembered. It is said that the current director of the lamb office is my brother-in-law's cousin of his classmate, who is: "I can't take care of a tube, and the price will increase." ”
I looked at my uncle and wanted to live to his age, to have such a morning, to drink the soup from the bowl of the sea clean, and to say a few laughs with the children he watched grow up.
Three bowls of rice noodles one morning
Compared with the north, the breakfast in the south is indeed more abundant, and the style is clear at one time and one place. Especially in the two Guangdong areas, the travel is limited, but the experience is extraordinary. One year in Guilin, I ate six bowls of rice noodles in one day. Back to the last bowl of marinated powder downstairs, it felt much better than the famous one. Ask the locals, they think deeply: "Who ran so far to eat bowls of flour?" ”
In the small town of Guangxi that I went to the year before, all the streets were full of various rice noodle signs, and the curtains had fallen in the evening - no need to ask, this is a good place for breakfast. The locals couldn't answer my questions, still thinking, "It's all the same." "It has been observed, and to the east of the hotel entrance are three "so-and-so rice noodles.". After many years of not coming to Guangxi, tomorrow morning at least recall the taste of Guilin. There are mountains in the city, surrounded by rivers, and the sky will light up in a few moments, and the whole city may be running alone, and the rice noodle shop that lights up earlier is the first to be lit.
The hotel has breakfast, there must be rice noodles, take it for granted who eats that ah. I believe in the local standard of the streetside pavilion. I couldn't understand what the eldest sister of the first family said, so I pointed out, nothing more than adding a little more meat. It turned out to be misunderstood, and the powder that came up was soup. In the summer, the rice noodles taste mellow, but most of the behaviors around me prove that mixing flour may be more suitable, and I am a little reluctant. Remembering the impressive performance of six bowls a day, he entered the second rice noodle shop with his head held high. Only I was the one who said loudly, "Brine powder, mix powder, don't want soup." It must have been an accent that wasn't normally there, and they looked at me with a gentle smile, and for a moment there was some frustration. To be fair – of course my taste is meaningless – the first one was good (probably I was hungry at the time), and the second one was dry... While looking to the third house, the phone rang and the local official had to say a few words in person.
The leader is a big sister, laughing heartily, speaking decisively: "Hey, the rice noodles in our hotel are not simple, Oh, haven't eaten in the morning?" Serve a bowl for guests from the capital. They didn't open their mouths, and in front of them was a bowl of "brine powder that the leader had explained." To say that not to eat it will inevitably sweep away the master's interest; eat it, I have to weigh my own ability. However, there is no such thing as the swollen dizzy dizziness of the spicy soup pan or the lamb in the basin of water – there is room for it. After tasting it, it was good, and with some more chili peppers, I ate faster than the leader. "Oh, you see I will say, come, and then..." "No, I will have to hurry in a while" - what is the reason for this, hurrying and not eating much? Fortunately, the leadership is not reluctant. In the process of her instructions, I suddenly found that all the rice noodles related this morning were the eldest sister, scalding the powder, cutting meat, collecting money, including the leader, I really did not see a male practitioner.
In the mornings after the "three bowls", my appetite did not lose the chain at all, and I still relished the taste of a meal. When I ate with the locals, I was swept up in the wind, but they were all left. After getting in the car, he said, "It's too hard to eat." "It's a bit embarrassing — isn't that what you recommend — it's hard to find out what's unpalatable. However, on the morning of leaving Guangxi, in the most lively place next to the street, the rice noodle shop in the queue, thinking that he did not know when he would be able to reach this place again, he decisively asked for two bowls directly.
"Eat a bowl before you eat."
"Then there will be more queues."
She danced with an old lady to full power. It was probably her mother, whose hair was the same color after selling rice noodles all her life.
Hu Changhui paints Wang Hanbing photo
The above content was published in civil aviation magazine of China, No. 3, 2021
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Editor| Lu Lu Review | Dai Jinjing
Sina Weibo | @ Civil Aviation Magazine of China