Lipstick: Trends, History and Fashion Icons, by Rachel Felder, translated by Shan Shan, unread 丨Changjiang Literature and Art Publishing House, July 2021 edition
The following and images are excerpted from the book Lipstick: Trends, History and Fashion Icons, with permission from the publisher.
Female politicians red
On July 31, 1919, the cover of the French weekly La Baïonnette was the climax of women's political participation, which supported women's struggle for suffrage.
In the early 20th century, women politicians in many countries began to fight for the right to vote. Their rebellion was revolutionary in that era, when most women were politically and commercially inactive, and they were keen to stay at home and play the roles of wives, housewives, and mothers. Applying lipstick — which conveys strength, confidence, courage and femininity — became another way for women to express their struggles. It also represents a break with tradition and, in many ways, a dramatic shift in society's perception of women wearing lipstick. In the eyes of previous generations, lipstick was often associated with prostitutes, actresses and cabaret girls.
Cosmetics mogul Elizabeth Arden stands up for women's suffrage and stands firmly on their side. In 1912, when a protest march of women suffragettes passed by her salon, Arden and his team handed them lipstick, unlike marathons, where cheerleaders on the side of the road usually handed runners a glass of water.
The following year, in March 1913, nearly 5,000 women marched through Washington's Pennsylvania Avenue, also wearing lipstick. In fact, lipstick has also been used elsewhere as a symbol for female politicians, such as in England, where female suffragists leader Emmeline Pankhurst and others involved in the cause also often wear lipstick. Just a few years later, lipstick became the norm, in part because of the push from female politicians.
Victory Red
Illustrator Adolf Tredler was famous for his American propaganda paintings during World War II, and his paintings were published in various influential magazines of the same period, such as the Saturday Evening News. This poster is his work "Soldier Without a Gun".
During World War II, Allied women used lipstick to express a gesture of rebellion, symbolizing their refusal to succumb to the difficult circumstances and material constraints that came with the war. Lipstick represents resilience, bravery, camaraderie and strength, and many women are beginning to take on the traditional work of men because they have gone to war. It must be admitted that making yourself look attractive is also a motivation.
By the way, Adolf Hitler hated lipstick. For him, the Aryan ideal was a natural, unadorned face and healthy, pure vitality. In his eyes, mannerism and eye-catching lipstick were too high-profile and sexy. A staunch vegetarian, he also resented the animal fats commonly used for lipstick at the time.
During the war, all kinds of supplies were rationed in limited quantities, including food, gasoline, and cans. However, for cosmetics, especially something as eye-catching as lipstick, it is seen as an important item to maintain morale and self-esteem. Because of its necessity, there should be no limited rationing. In England, Winston Churchill and the British government also supported the idea, never limiting the rationing of lipstick, whether red or otherwise. As an official in the Ministry of Supply told Vogue magazine in 1942: "Cosmetics are as important to a woman as a certain amount of tobacco to men." ”
But lipstick was heavily taxed during the war and became a valuable commodity. Some women dye their lips red with a cheaper red dye, beet juice. Despite the smoke all around, lipstick gives life some normalcy, uplifting and beautiful for women in the UK and other countries.
A British woman during World War II wore lipstick.
In the United States, lipstick pipes were made of plastic because the metal was left for war. In 1942, the Wartime Production Commission ordered a reduction in the production of cosmetics, but was forced to withdraw the instructions a few months later due to strong opposition from women.
In World War II, women also joined the army, playing an unprecedented supporting role, helping men on the battlefield. The makeup brand made special merchandise for these women, and incidentally earned a fortune from the patriotic enthusiasm of the time. Lipsticks at the time included Elizabeth Arden's Victory Red in 1941; Tussy's Fighting Red; HR Helena's Regimental Red; and British brand Cyclax's Introduction of Auxiliary Red as a "Lipstick for Serving Women", which was prominently highlighted in black-and-white advertisements at the time.
Elizabeth Arden was particularly associated with the war, and the brand was licensed to sell cosmetics at military bases at the time. Elizabeth Arden was also chosen by the U.S. government to design a color for the U.S. Marine Corps Women's Reserve, founded in 1943. As one of the elements of the uniform, these women needed to use lip color and nail polish that matched the red details in their dress. Arden unveiled a color number called "Montezuma Red" to pay homage to the promise of "From the Halls of Montezuma" in the U.S. Marine Corps military song. The following year, the lipstick was added to Elizabeth Arden's line, selling to ordinary customers, and the advertising at the time also focused on the connection with the military.
From the 1920s to the 1940s, the cosmetic Tangee was famous for its lipsticks. During World War II, the company released a series of print ads targeting patriotic women, including this one.
After the war, lipstick became a tool to boost women's morale On April 15, 1945, British troops liberated the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp in northern Germany. As you can imagine, the scene will be very dark. To help the women there regain a sense of order and self-esteem, the British Red Cross sent a batch of lipsticks. Maybe at the beginning of this line
For what seems vain and superficial, but it is a very urgent supply. Army Lieutenant Colonel Mervyn Willett Conin, one of the first officers to get there, wrote in his diary: "The woman lying on the bed had no sheets or pajamas, but was smeared with scarlet lipstick. You see the ladies walking around, wearing nothing, just blankets over their shoulders, but lipstick... Finally, someone made them look human, they were human, no longer the numbers on the arm. "Although lipstick does not eliminate the suffering they have endured, it is a strong support for them to regain their lives."
A print ad for Elizabeth Arden's lipstick "Montezuma Red," a color inspired by the Red Hat rope, scarf and shield insignia in the Navy's women's uniform.
Hollywood glamour
Given the amazing charm of lipstick, it has become a makeup staple on the red carpet, awards ceremonies and dress-up dinners. A touch of red lips evokes the glamour, elegance and unique charm of Hollywood's Golden Age actresses. The Golden Age began in the 1920s, when sound films replaced silent films, and ended in the late 1950s, when the studio system began to decline and television rose to prominence as a form of home entertainment.
In the nearly 30 years between, Hollywood stars represented an ideal image of women, although their appearance changed through on-set makeup or other means, showing enviable traits such as a more delicate jawline and a higher hairline. Whatever changes, the result is a clean and neat beauty: shiny hair, well-trimmed eyebrows, and perfectly coloured lips. This makeup creates a sense of alienation and starlight, which makes women around the world even more fascinated.
The most memorable actresses of this era, such as Hedy Lamarr, Dorothy Lamour, Jane Lamour, and Jane Lamour, are among the most nostalgic actresses of this era. Jean Harlow, Rita Hayworth, Marlene Dietrich and Joan Crawford all have their signature red lips. Red lips are an important part of their tall figures, which makes the public submit to their beauty, success and fame.
Poster for the 1937 comedy film The Bride in Red starring Joan Crawford. In the film, she played a singer dressed as an aristocrat, dressed in fancy clothes and wearing lipstick.
In those years, lipstick was an important part of fashion and aesthetics, adding flavour to the everyday makeup looks of women, whether they were full-time housewives or one of the growing workforce. Red-lipped actresses also stimulated the popularity of lipstick, because they were keen to appear on the screen as red-lipped, even if they participated in costume movies, and red lips did not correspond to the actual situation at that time. Vivien Leigh also wore elaborate red lip makeup when she played Scarlett O'Hara in Gone with the Wind, even though the story takes place during the American Civil War. "Whether the lips are red or not depends on the fashion of the time," said David M. Thompson of the UCLA Academy of Drama, Film and Television. Deborah Nadoolman Landis, founder of C. Copley's Fashion Design Research Center, said, "Whatever the actual situation, when the audience is smearing red lips, it will be red lips on the screen. ”
Works by Cesi Beaton, portrait of Joan Crawford.
Obviously, it was a symbiotic relationship: lipstick was the fashion of the time, and the red lips of the screen characters gave the audience a sense of identity. The red lips on the screen of Hollywood's great beauties have promoted the popularity of lipstick and made women flock to it. Of course, there are other lipstick color options, but red is by far the most popular. In the late 1930s, the now-delisted brand Volupte introduced two new colours: the red hussy, which hinted at seductive appeal, and a dignified soft pink called Lady. Wild girls sell 80% more than ladies. In the mid-1940s, Max Factor ran a print ad featuring Rita Hayworth as the spokesperson for a new product line with three shades: Net Red, Blue Red, and Rose Red.
Set-up photo by Rita Hayworth in the 1946 film Gilda.
Lipstick fever faded somewhat in the 1960s and 1970s out of reverence for natural makeup, but it has always conveyed confidence, elegance and beauty in modern society. So for many women, it always has a place in cosmetics: a simple touch of red lips is synonymous with maturity and sophistication. Its exquisite beauty makes it standard on the red carpet, and its patrons include avant-garde hipsters Rihanna and Lady Gaga, as well as actresses Julianne Moore and Natalie Portman, who prefer classic makeup. In leisure time, for ordinary people who wear jeans on weekends, lipstick can make the most ordinary outfits look high-class and refined, and can also make plain faces energetic.
Original author 丨 [American] Rachel Feld
Excerpt from Xiao Shuyan
Editor 丨 Xu Yuedong
Introduction part proofreading 丨 Lucy