Six must live
Liubiju is a historic store in Beijing, located in Dashilar outside the front gate. Opened during the Ming Dynasty, it has a history of more than 500 years. It was originally prosperous because of the sale of Xiangling wine from the famous world, and the door was like a market. During the Jiajing period, the hotel became famous in Beijing. The prime minister, Yan Song, was fond of alcohol, and heard that the wine in this shop was different, so he went to a small trial, and after tasting the consequences, he really felt that the wine tasted extraordinary, and he has been patronizing it from time to time.
After a long time of acquaintance, the restaurant asked Yan Song to give him a name, and Yan Song wrote down the three Daojin characters of "Six Must Live" according to the ancient winemaking tips contained in the "Book of Rites and Moon Orders": "Rice must be qi, qu qi must be time, Zhan blazing will be clean, water springs must be fragrant, pottery must be measured, and fire qi must be obtained". The name "Six Must Live" was derived from this.
During the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, this liquor store was transformed into a pickle garden, and its reputation was even more enhanced because of its bright color, rich sauce flavor, crisp and tender fragrance, moderate salt and sweetness, and de-greasy food aid. There are more than 60 kinds of traditional pickles with unique flavors, of which eight treasures, sauce milk melon, yellow sauce, sweet noodle sauce and so on are the most famous.
Because Liubiju is well-managed, the production of pickles ensures quality, and special attention is paid to the social credibility of commodities, so although it has experienced vicissitudes, it has endured for a long time and enjoys a high reputation among the masses. The pickled pickles of Liubiju are not only a must-have side dish for many families in Beijing, but also one of the must-have side dishes at state banquets.
Cohabitation
According to legend, an imperial relative of the Qing Dynasty, in order to have a convenient place to eat, drink and have fun outside the palace, invited several people from Tongheju to open Tongheju. At first, the business was average, and the shop was not famous. One day, a prince in charge of finance who lived in the West Four Cylinder Tile City went to the small restaurant to eat, and the owner of the shop waited attentively and carefully cooked several special dishes, which was deeply pleasing to the prince, and the prince was greatly appreciated after eating, so the business of the small restaurant had a turnaround. In order to attract business, the small restaurant often takes the guest as a friend, so that it has the feeling of "home away from home", so it takes the meaning of "Tong huai he Yue" and is named "Tong He Ju".
In fact, Tongheju Restaurant is located on Xisi Street in Xicheng District, founded in 1822, named after the meaning of "Tonghuai Heyue". When it was first built, it was a small shop that mainly operated home-cooked food, and the customers were mostly poor people.
In the early years of the Republic of China, the treasurer Mou Wenqing asked Yuan Xiangfu of the imperial dining room to help cook, and Yuan Xiangfu made Tongheju famous with three non-stick (non-stick plates, non-stick spoons, non-stick teeth) and other famous court dishes. In 1939, Guangheju ceased business, and most of its chefs came to Tongheju, making Tongheju's business popular, becoming more and more famous, and becoming the first of the famous "Eight Great Residences" restaurants in the old capital.
Before 1984, the store site had been at the north entrance of Xisi South Street, and a plaque with the inscription "Tongheju" was hung on the door, and then moved to Sanlihe Yuetan South Street. The new store has a business area of 500 square meters, consisting of a hall and three KTV halls around its halls, Tianhe, Dihe, Renhe and people, equipped with first-class audio, and a comfortable environment with various functions. It can receive 300 people to dine at the same time, and can provide a venue for various cultural performances, competitions and celebrations. In order to meet the needs of many guests and absorb the essence of other cuisines, the reopened Tongheju Restaurant has added raw materials such as fresh fish, shrimp, crabs, frogs, snakes and so on for customers to choose at will. Its steamed fish, yellow braised or steamed yuan fish, three-eat snake (skin fried, bone broth, meat fried multi-colored snake shreds), bullfrogs, xiulong eel, sweet and sour crispy fish cooked with oil explosion, palace explosion, teppanyaki and other techniques are favored by customers.
According to historical records, in the early days of the establishment of the Tongheju store, some high-ranking officials and nobles in the court often visited the small shop as a great place to eat, drink and have fun. By the time of the Republic of China, some literati and inkers often came to gathering, chanting poems, and discussing paintings.
Daoxiang Village
Beijing DaoxiangCun was founded in 1895, located in the front gate of Guanyin Temple, south shop Beikai (then known as "Daoxiangcun South Goods Store"), the front shop and back factory, very distinctive, is the first production and operation of Nanwei food in Beijing, the products are widely welcomed by people from all walks of life.
There are different theories about the origin of the name "Daoxiang Village". One is due to the poem, "A spring leek ripe, ten miles of rice flowers", "rice flowers say a good year, listen to the sound of frogs", "new city japonica rice, five miles smell incense". The word "Daoxiang" is used as the shop name of a food pastry shop, and it has both flavors and tastes, which is indeed very wonderful.
Another theory is quite mythical, and there is a small shop selling delicatessen in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, and the business is light. One night, a lame man begging for food suddenly came to the shop, and the boss saw that he was disabled and pitiful, so he sent him something to eat, and when he saw that it was late, he laid straw in a corner of the store and left him to stay. The lame man did not quit, and the boss took the straw he had slept in to the fire, and he did not expect the smell of the cooked meat to be smelly. So he made a big fuss about it, saying that the cripple was one of the "Eight Immortals" and changed the name of the shop to "Daoxiang Village." Since then, his business has gradually flourished, and his name has also been used by people. Because of the wonderful name of "Daoxiang Village", in 1895, Guo Yusheng, a Jinling man, came to Beijing with a few guys who were well versed in the production process of Nanwei food, and created the first one in Beijing to produce and operate Nanwei food, and the name of "Daoxiangcun" became the only choice.
In 1984, mr. Liu Zhenying, the fifth generation of the faction, revived the prestigious long-established food enterprise. After the resumption of business in 1984, Daoxiangcun has won the praise of consumers with unique and excellent quality products, and the operation mode and excellent service of the former store-back factory have won the market, the production and operation have developed rapidly, and remarkable results have been achieved in terms of social and economic benefits. In the process of long cultural and historical development, Daoxiangcun has formed its own corporate culture.
Willow Springs Residence
Liuquanju Restaurant is a well-known Chinese restaurant founded in 1567, dealing in Beijing-style cuisine.
In the early years, Liuquanju was funded by Shandong people, and the front of the shop was a three-door shop hall, and there was a wide courtyard behind it. According to historical records, there was a huge willow tree in this courtyard at that time, there was a spring well under the tree, the well water was clear and sweet, and the owner used this clear spring water to brew rice wine, which was mellow in taste and full of wine aroma, which was called "Yuquan Wine" by diners.
In addition to selling yellow wine, Liuquanju is also very distinctive, the Qing Dynasty's "Ugly Smell Manzhi" recorded that "the ancient capital hotel to 'Liuquanju' is the most famous, the color is beautiful and mellow, if the hotel is more equipped with dishes such as bad fish, pine flowers, drunken crabs, dried meat, vegetables, dried and fresh fruits under the wine", in the Qing Dynasty, Liuquanju together with the triad, Xianluju together is called "the famous three residences in the capital".
With the changes of history, by 1935, the only liuquanju family remained in the three residences in Beijing. Liuquanju Restaurant did not have a store name in the early years, and it is said that the three characters of "Liuquanju" are the fallen works of Yan Song, the traitorous minister of the Ming Dynasty.
During the reign of Ming Jiajing, Emperor Sejong favored the traitorous minister Yan Song and once said, "There is no sword in the world to kill him or cut him off." After Emperor Mingmuzong succeeded to the throne, he was determined to get rid of this traitor. However, because the former emperor had spoken first, he could not take his life, so he had to depose Yan Song from his official position, confiscated his family property, and left only a silver bowl for Yan Song, allowing him to make a living begging. The people of Beijing hated Yan Song, and no one was willing to help him. One day, Yan Song, who was hungry and thirsty, came to the door of this tavern, smelled the strong aroma of wine, yan Song could no longer walk, and begged the owner to give him wine. When the treasurer looked at this silver rice bowl, he knew that he was Yan Song, and he had long heard that Yan Song had written well, so he took a pen, ink and paper and said, "It's okay to give you wine to drink, you have to give me a few words for this small shop." Yan Song thought about it for a moment and inscribed the three words "Liu Quan Ju". Soon after, Yan Song starved to death on the street, and "LiuQuanju" became a masterpiece, and the small shop became famous in the capital.
In 1949, Liuquanju moved to its current location, No. 217 Xinjiekou South Street. Liuquanju Restaurant, which started out as a Lu cuisine, has continuously improved in the long process of development for many years, created a unique Beijing cuisine, and gradually developed into a special restaurant dealing in Beijing-style dishes.
To be continued...
This article is excerpted from "Food Fun through the Ages: Talk about those things that eat"
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