"Only drink Changsha water, and eat Wuchang fish", as one of the most common freshwater fish on the domestic table, I believe that everyone will not be unfamiliar with Wuchang fish. However, although The Wuchang fish is called "Wuchang", the origin is not from Wuchang, but from the current Ezhou. It is said that during the Three Kingdoms period, Sun Quan changed the name of Echeng to Wuchang when he toured Echeng, and later found that the bream here was very delicious, and the fish here was also known as Wuchang fish. It can be said that Wuchang fish has also been engraved with China's long-standing fish culture, the following for everyone to introduce the history of Wuchang fish, let's take a look at it.
If you talk about Wuhan's special foods, friends who know wuhan can say a few: hot dry noodles, Zhou black duck, Wuchang fish and so on. In particular, the reputation of Wuchang fish is due to Chairman Mao's "Water Tune Song Head. The famous phrase "only drink Changsha water, and eat Wuchang fish" in "Swimming" is widely circulated, and almost every tourist who comes to the three towns of Wuhan wants to feast on it.
However, you may not know that although this small, tender fish has the name of "Wuchang", it does not come from today's Wuchang. Where is this fish delicious? Below I and my friends to talk about the small history of Wuchang fish.
One. Why doesn't the Wuchang fish come from "Wuchang"?
The name "Wuchang" only illustrates its close connection with the place name Wuchang. Its scientific name is Tuantou bream, formerly known as bream, belongs to the genus carp family bream, strong reproductive ability, fast growth rate, and easy to raise and catch, for thousands of years are the middle reaches of the Yangtze River region of the special excellent freshwater fish.
Wuchang fish
Why do I say it doesn't come from Wuchang? This is a past from the Three Kingdoms period at the end of the Han Dynasty: Sun Quan built the city.
In 208 AD, after Sun Liu's allied forces defeated Cao Cao at the Battle of Chibi, the Jingzhou land took the lead in forming a three-legged situation in which Cao, Liu, and Sun stood on their feet. Liu Bei's first general, Guan Yu, was defending Jiangling and attacking Xiangfan when he was attacked by Sun Quan's general Lü Meng, and all of his territory fell into Sun Quan's hands. Liu Bei, in a fit of rage, led a large army to retake Jingzhou.
Sun Quan quickly organized the Jingzhou defense line, and in 221 AD ordered the construction of Xiakou City as a military fortress in the wuchang territory of present-day Wuhan (then part of Ezhou), and built the Yellow Crane Tower, which was later famous in the world, as a watchtower, and at the same time built Wuchang City and set up a county in the territory of present-day Ezhou City, Hubei Province, taking the meaning of "Wu and Chang", and built the Summer Palace of King Wu here as a place for his summer study.
Map of the division of the counties of Jingzhou
It can be seen that today's Wuhan Wuchang is the boundary of Ezhou in that year, and Wuchang County in that year is today's Ezhou City, which is equivalent to the exchange of positions between ancient and modern places.
Let's look at the origin of Wuchang fish - Liangzi Lake. Liangzi Lake, also known as Fan Lake, is the largest lake in Hubei Province, the main body of the lake area is located in the Liangzi Lake District in Ezhou City, the water system is crisscrossed, and its water flows through Changgang to the Yangtze River Fankou, which is the jurisdiction of Wuchang County during the Three Kingdoms period. Although part of the lake area is located in the Jiangxia District of present-day Wuhan, it is also far from Xiakou City, which is located on the boundary of present-day Wuchang. Every year, the Wuchang fish will flow down the water to mate at Fankou, and then migrate to Liangzi Lake to spawn, so Wuchang fish is also called Fankou bream.
Liangzi Lake water system
Therefore, the "Wuchang" of Wuchang refers to the Wuchang County set up by Sun Quan, not the Wuchang of the three towns of Wuhan today. Chairman Mao said in a speech on May 3, 1975: Wuchang fish is not today's Wuchang, it is ancient Wuchang, between the current Wuchang and Daye County, where bream appear. "Today's Ezhou is no longer called the original Name of Wuchang, so there is nothing wrong with saying that Wuchang fish does not come from "Wuchang", nor does it affect it to become one of the important specialties of Wuhan.
Sun Quan and his descendant Sun Hao, the late emperor of Eastern Wu, also liked to eat fish in Wuchang, and both moved the capital from Jianye to Wuchang. However, the ministers and people of Jianye wanted to return to Jianye to eat fish, leaving behind "I would rather drink Jianye water than Eat Wuchang fish." Ning also Jianye died, not only Wuchangju" nursery rhyme. In other words, the Group of Nanjing people brought by the Sun Wu Royal Family would rather go back to Nanjing to drink boiled water than eat Wuchang fish in Ezhou.
Territory of Eastern Wu in the Three Kingdoms
It is no wonder that it is not easy for ordinary people to move, let alone a political power to move the capital, which is not a matter that one or two kinds of food can influence.
Two. How much did the ancients love Wuchang fish?
Since these Jianye people did not want to eat Wuchang fish, why should they say how much the ancients liked it? Quite simply, whether it's an object or a person, even if you don't like "it", there are always other people who are rare, not to mention that this "it" has so many shining points.
First look at a record in the "Wuchang County Chronicle": "There is a Fankou in the northwest of the county, and the bream produces Fankou in the world." This sentence clearly tells the reader that the bream produced at the mouth of the Yangtze River where Liangzi Lake (Fan Lake) flows into the Yangtze River is the best bream in the whole world. The people of the eastern Hubei region also have a folk proverb: "Huangzhou tofu Echeng wine, Fankou bream Bahe lotus", a sentence points out four kinds of Edong specialties, including Fankou bream.
Hubei lotus
If the local county chronicles and local people may be suspected of "advertising" their own fish, then let's take a look at what the famous "foreigners" in history have said about Wuchang fish.
For thousands of years, countless literati and gourmets who have visited the Wuchang area in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River have tasted the taste of Fankou bream.
After the Northern Zhou poet Yu Xin sandwiched a piece of fish meat, he directly changed the nursery rhyme of sun Wu people to "also think of Jianye water, and finally remember The fish of Wuchang".
After taking a sip of fish soup, Du Fu, a very busy poet in sheng tang, talked about the "Twelve Songs of Relief": "That is, there is no new language in the old and the old, and the fishing mallet head shrinks the neck bream."
Du Fu (712-770), also known as Zimei, called himself Shaoling Yelao
After watching the fishermen catch a net of Fankou bream, zhou Duanchao, a scholar of the Southern Song Dynasty, wrote a poem "Sanjiangkou" on the lakeside: "Xiaomeng was shocked by chibi cranes, and night roosting to see the Wuchang fish."
After the Yuan Dynasty poet Matsu often vomited a fish thorn, he wrote a poem "SendIng Song Xianfu to the South" to comfort his friends: "Return with your childhood to worship Qiulong, and travel south to love Wuchang fish." Although The fish in Wuchang is delicious, you can't be greedy!
In the recent network hit drama "The Twelve Hours of Chang'an", the border poet Cheng Shan (Cen Shan), who only ate once a day, wrote in "Sending Fei Zi Back to Wuchang" that "Qiu Lai remembers Wuchang fish, dreaming only in Baling Road", perhaps he likes Wuchang fish so much because of this hungry experience.
Liangzi Lake Fishing Festival (Liangzi Island, Ezhou)
After Su Dongpo, a top literary hero and gourmet in The Song Dynasty and even in Chinese history, was demoted to Huangzhou, he naturally did not let go of the delicacy of Wuchang fish. He often fished for bream in Fankou and Pan Da Lin and other friends, and then brought it back to study various fancy eating methods, and left a poem "Bream": "The dawn shines in the river, and the swimming fish are like jade bottles." Whoever says the word shrinks, the bait is cooked every time. The constrictions mentioned here and the constricted bream in Du Fu's poems both refer to the Fankou bream with the characteristics of "shrinking neck".
Dongpo continued to boast in another poem: "The Yangtze River goes around the koko to know the beauty of fish, and the good mountains and bamboo shoots are fragrant." "I really love this fish to the point of being.
Su Shi (1037-1101), known as Su Dongpo
So many heavyweight literati and scholars have praised Wuchang fish, which shows that Wuchang fish as a kind of edible fish does have its own superiority.
Three. Scientific research and breeding of fish in Wuchang after the founding of New China
Although so many ancients are spreading the reputation of Wuchang fish, but limited by the level of breeding and information dissemination technology, Wuchang fish for a long time only existed as a special fish in the eastern region of Hubei, and has not been subdivided by modern scientific research, nor is it well known to people in the world.
In 1956, Chairman Mao inspected Wuhan, swam in the Yangtze River and ate Wuchang fish, and wrote the famous "Water Tune Song Head." Swimming". He had always loved to eat all kinds of fish, but it was the first time that he had written poems to praise a fish.
However, the development of Wuchang's fish industry is not only based on this "advertising word", but behind it is a group of aquatic biologists and researchers in New China who have been deeply involved in rivers and lakes for several years. Back in the "Water Tune Song Head. A year before "Swimming" was written, the Institute of Hydrobiology of the Chinese Academy of Sciences organized a team of more than 20 people to conduct a one-and-a-half-year comprehensive scientific expedition to Liangzi Lake.
Professor Yi Boru's team took a group photo at Liangzi Lake
The original historical Wuchang fish specifically included three species: triangular bream, periwink and tuantou bream, all of which belonged to the bream family. Professor Yi Boru, a ichthyologist who participated in the Liangzi Lake expedition, found that among the bream commonly called "flat-breasted bream", there are "triangular bream" and "tuantou bats". After conducting morphological comparative studies on the shape of the head and mouth of these two species of bream, the height of the dorsal fin, the length and height of the tail stalk, as well as the number of bones, gill and gill rakers, and other characteristics, Professor Iberu named the "Tuantou Bream" as "Tuantou Bream" in 1955, and finally designated it as the official breed of Wuchang fish in 1965.
Through the efforts of Professor Yi Boru, the "name" of Wuchang fish was finally determined. Later, after further research, the habits of Wuchang fish growth, feeding, migratory reproduction and other habits were more clearly understood, which opened up a green channel for large-scale Wuchang fish farming industry activities.
In 1951, Iberus was on a scientific expedition in Taihu Lake
After the reform and opening up, the Ezhou Municipal Party Committee and Municipal Government took advantage of the characteristics of Ezhou's lakes with many water areas, on the one hand, implemented the fishery contract responsibility system, and promoted Ezhou Sanshan Village to make a fortune by breeding Wuchang fish and other fish, and there were nearly one million yuan in the 90s. On the other hand, collective planning and excavation of fishery resources are carried out, comprehensive breeding of fish, shrimp, crabs and mussels and three-dimensional planting of aquatic crops such as reeds are carried out in several large lakes such as Sanshan Lake, and scientific breeding is promoted. Wuhan is also developing the culture of Wuchang fish in the lakes it manages.
Chutian Metropolis Daily's column report on Yi Boru, the "father of Wuchang fish"
After the efforts of Ezhou City and Wuhan City, the Liangzi Lake area has built a Wuchang fish commodity base integrating aquaculture, fishing, processing and trade, with an area of 180,000 mu of intensively cultured Wuchang fish, and established the country's first "Wuchang Fish Research Institute", which not only solves the problem of fry breeding, but also expands the Wuchang fish breeding industry to other provinces. For example, in Suzhou, Changzhou and Wuxi in Jiangsu Province in the lower reaches of the Yangtze River, Wuchang fish production accounts for a quarter of the national production. On the total data of fishery development, the aquaculture output of Wuchang fish in 2010 was 652215 tons, ranking seventh among China's aquatic fish.
The annual production of fish in Wuchang in China from 2012 to 2016 has changed
Wuchang fish is not only a dish of food on the plate of Chinese, but also a special treasure for Sino-foreign exchanges. International friends from dozens of countries have come to China to taste the taste of Wuchang fish, and fishery experts from the Republic of the Congo have come to Ezhou to investigate the Wuchang fish industry and strive to promote the establishment of Wuchang fish in Africa. When Nancy, the mayor of Mareta City in the United States, visited Ezhou, she also said that she would bring Wuchang fish fingerlings to the United States, and the author does not know whether she finally brought them back. In any case, the scale and internationalization of Wuchang fish has become a foregone conclusion, and it is not difficult to eat it outside Hubei.
Four. Nutritional and economic value of Wuchang fish
Having said this for so long, the author has only interspersed the history of Wuchang fish with its advantages. Now let's summarize its nutritional and economic value to my friends.
In terms of nutritional value, Wuchang fish belongs to the "short and fierce" in fish, small but full of treasures, there is almost no place that cannot be eaten and it is very selling. The first is that the meat is rich and tender, there is a feeling of melting in the mouth, although the fish bones are a little more, but it is suitable for various cooking methods, suitable for people of all ages to taste. Secondly, Wuchang fish meat and fish skin are rich in essential nutrients, such as protein and collagen, fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E and water-soluble vitamins B and C, potassium, sodium, calcium, phosphorus, iron, zinc, copper, selenium and other mineral trace elements, as well as moderate fat content and beneficial fatty acids, eat more and are not afraid of fat.
Wuchang fish has high nutritional value, and its economic value will naturally not be small. Wuchang fish rely on draft grass for their livelihood, and the fry mature sexually after two winters, the amount of fry is large, the growth is faster, the stress resistance is strong, and the recapture rate is high. Wuchang fish also do not choose places to live, lakes, reservoirs, ponds, ditches, can be fed. Liangzi Lake has all the excellent ecological environment suitable for its growth and development, and the biomass of the submerged community in its aquatic vegetation community reaches 70. 08% of the ratio, for Wuchang fish is a paradise for reproduction. Large lakes in other regions, such as Taihu Lake and Hongze Lake in Jiangsu, have similar farming environments. Breeding is convenient, the output is high, and it is liked, can this economic value not be leveraged?
A small Wuchang fish swam through the long river of thousands of years of history in the Wuchang area. So do you like to eat Wuchang fish?
Text: Iron rides like the wind
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