The Manchu Han full table in China can be said to be known to everyone, and the "Manchu Han full seat" in people's eyes often represents the ultimate of Manchu Qing court cuisine, and even the top of the Chinese banquet. However, what kind of dishes are in the whole table of Manhan, many people know through the famous cross-talk "Reporting the Name of the Dish".
"There are steamed lamb, steamed bear paw, steamed deer tail, roasted duck, roasted chicks, roast goose, brine pig, brine duck, sauced chicken, bacon, pine flowers, small belly, dried meat, sausage, assorted su pan, smoked chicken white belly, steamed eight treasure pig, rice stuffed duck, canned pheasant, canned quail, brine pieces, brine goose, pheasant, rabbit breast, vegetable python, silver fish, steamed toad!"
Although cross-talk is a joke, the original intention of the baggage setting is a lip service kung fu practiced by a person in order to delay the invitation to a friend to dinner, which causes the other party to ask what is in the menu, and then begins to report the name of the dish at length, so as to avoid the invitation. Later, it also became the basic skill of cross-talk actors.
And Xu Ke's film "Golden Jade Full Hall" added a bit of romantic legend to this extremely grand feast.
The full table of Manhan depicted in literary and artistic works is full of bao ginseng wing belly mountain treasure sea flavor, how luxurious how to come, the plating must be carved exquisite painting style science fiction, anyway, imagination does not cost money, where can the emperor eat something bad, bear paw deer tail can not all have to greet it.
However, if you look at the historical data, you will find that we ordinary people really think too much, the qing dynasty royal family was originally a nomadic people outside the Guan, and they were actually not so particular about eating.
In search of the real Manchu full table, "Chinese Banquet · "Fushou Kangning" entered China's first historical archive, where the bottom file of the emperor's daily life was recorded in great detail, as detailed as what dishes the emperor had at each meal, and the emperor ate a few bites, but even the shadow of the "Manchu Han whole seat" could not be found.
Moreover, according to the records of the bottom of the meal, the monarch of a country in the Qing Dynasty originally ate only two meals a day, breakfast at seven or eight o'clock in the morning, and lunch at two or three o'clock in the afternoon, and there was no such thing as dinner.
▲ The dinner prepared by Concubine Hua for the emperor in the "Biography of Zhen Huan"
No wonder the emperors of the Qing Dynasty were in high positions, but they all maintained a very good figure.
But aren't you hungry without dinner? That would be more worrying, the royal family has its own afternoon tea.
In the bottom file of the Qing Palace, you can often see entries similar to "Rao Erpin" and "Rao Rao Fifteen Pins", which is the real deep palace delicacy.
"Rao" is a collective name for pasta dim sum, derived from the hunting habits of nomadic peoples, and occupies an important place in Manchu court cuisine. At Fuhua Zhai, a long-established shop at Gokokuji Temple, we found these traditional handmade pastries that bear the historical roots of the Manchu Qing Dynasty.
Sunni Erfen white cake, the peculiar name comes from the Mongolian place name Sunni Er, and the dim sum produced from Sunni Er is called Sunni Erfen.
Tube full of hunger, easy to carry, not easy to break, hunting in the pocket, you can take it out at any time to eat, put it for three days, deeply loved by the Queen of Fucha.
And half a pound of large dim sum turned over the mooncake is the favorite of Empress Dowager Cixi. Layered together with oil noodles and puff pastry, they contain a rich fruit filling to become a puff pastry mooncake.
Because the skin is easy to crack when baking large snacks, and the filling is not easy to cook, it is more technical to make than small snacks.
There is also an allusion to the name of the hairy mooncake, it is said that Empress Dowager Cixi has bad teeth, and the master of the imperial dining room specially made a plate of large mooncakes to honor her, and the empress dowager immediately changed her face when she saw it: who can bite such a hard snack! Angry, he slapped the table, frightening the eunuchs into scattering.
But look at the moon cake on the table, has flown up the goose feather-like puff pastry, the empress tasted a bite, not only is not hard, but also melted in the mouth, fresh and soft, the empress dowager is in a good mood, given the name "turning the hair moon cake", crispy and flying crust has also become a major feature of the hair moon cake.
Dim sum is good, but it can't always be eaten as a main course. What kind of pomp and circumstance was the royal banquet of the Qing Dynasty, and was the Manchu and Han all-seat really just a legend?
Wang Xifu, the founder of Fuhua Zhai Rao Shop, came from a family of imperial chefs and was the inheritor of the Manchu Han full table, and he told us that the so-called "Manchu Han whole seat" began in the Republic of China, and the emperor and his old family really did not enjoy it.
However, the historical Qing Dynasty royal family did hold a court banquet for Manchu and Han Tongqing, and the "Thousand Sorrows Banquet" that began in Kangxi and flourished in Qianlong was one of them. For the first time, all the elderly people over the age of 65, regardless of the government and the people, can go to the capital on time to participate in the feast of Yangchun Garden, and the number of participants has reached thousands.
Time passed, the dynasty collapsed, and the princes and ministers who had enjoyed such a luxurious banquet missed the delicious taste in their memories but could not eat it, so the eight halls of Beijing took the lead in imitating the emperor's luxury of setting up banquets and holding various grand banquets, but obviously they could no longer be called palace banquets, so what was it called? Simply gave it a louder name, "Full of Han".
Wang Xifu's maternal grandfather was a chef in the imperial dining room, his father was a chef specializing in making dumplings in Zhimei Lou, and the two brothers were also chefs who specialized in making Full Seats of The Manchu Han Dynasty in the Republic of China, and grew up in the pile of famous chefs, and inheriting the traditional Dumplings and The Full Table of Man Han has also become the obsession of Elder Wang.
It took more than 20 years to study recipes, train relevant personnel, and create venue tableware, from scratch to restore the real Manchu full table, a total of 108 dishes, just to make a complete feast it takes three months.