| In Chengdu, how many kinds of toppings do noodles have?
| East Pull Eighteen Pull 010
There are many kinds of noodles on the surface of Chengdu?
Miscellaneous sauce noodles, eel noodles, squid noodles, beef noodles, pork rib noodles, strange noodles, sea noodles, crispy noodles, tomato omelette noodles, pea noodles, chicken miscellaneous noodles, fat intestine noodles, hui pot meat noodles, pork liver noodles, rabbit noodles, raw pepper noodles, sweet water noodles, dan dan noodles, cha slag noodles, hoof flower noodles, brain flower noodles, milk soup noodles, cowpea noodles, chicken soup noodles, cover noodles, golden silk noodles, buckwheat noodles, Song concubine noodles, ginger duck noodles, large meat noodles, burning noodles...
A cursory glance at the head of the braincase counted out more than forty kinds of noodles, so which of these noodles are chengdu's native varieties? Which varieties are handed down from the old Chengdu? Which noodle varieties have disappeared again? Which noodle varieties are new?
And listen to me one by one.
01 The past of Chengdu noodles
China's first bowl of noodles dates back 4,000 years. In 2002, noodles made 4,000 years ago were unearthed at the Lajia site in Qinghai Province.
(Image from the Internet)
When the first bowl of noodles in Chengdu appeared, there is no historical evidence. However, when Du Fu lived in Chengdu in the Tang Dynasty, he ate acacia leaf cold noodles.
"Green high locust leaves, picking and paying for the chinese kitchen, new noodles come to the market, juice is all in place." People are overheated, and they want to eat. ”
From the poem, we can see that this kind of locust leaf cold noodles is a kind of cold mix noodles.
There is also a traditional noodle in Chengdu, Song Concubine Noodles. Song sister-in-law noodles are a kind of fish soup noodles, which are made of fish meat, sprouts, fragrant mushrooms, etc. into a fish soup for Shaozi noodles. According to legend, Emperor Gaozong of the Southern Song Dynasty liked to eat fish made by the Song concubines of the Fenliang people, and people imitated the cooking methods of the Song sisters-in-law to make fish soup noodles. Chengdu's Song concubine noodles are in this case, imitating the Song sister-in-law fish soup method and improving Sichuan's eating habits.
Who the grandfather of Chengdu Noodles is, we don't know. But at least during the Tang and Song dynasties, Chengdu already had the habit of eating noodles.
Time went on further, and the "Chengdu General Survey" during the Xuantong period recorded six kinds of noodles that were common in Chengdu at that time: "sweet water noodles, furnace bridge noodles, silk noodles, miscellaneous sauce noodles, white noodles, and sanitary noodles".
Sweet water noodles and miso noodles still exist, but I don't know if there is a difference from the previous taste.
Furnace bridge deck, is a noodle type originating in Chongqing, which is now relatively rare in Chengdu. This kind of noodle is a mixture of kneaded dough into strips 5 cm in diameter, pulled into a bowl of noodles rolled out into a bowl of noodles, and then rolled into round flakes. Fold the thin slices into a semicircle, use a straight knife to cut the noodles on one side of the straight line, but leave the rounded edge about 1 cm without cutting, and unfold into the shape of a furnace bridge. Then cook the dough in a pot and add it to a bowl filled with seasonings such as soy sauce, red soy sauce, red oil chili, peppercorns, and minced sprouts.
To save silk noodles, kelp, radish, vegetarian ham, vegetarian crispy meat, winter shoots, tofu bamboo and other shredded noodles, blanched and placed on the noodles as a topping. White noodles, roughly similar to our current clear soup noodles, are only flavored with salt, green onions and a small amount of soy sauce. Sanitary noodles, the name is very special, the specific detailed method has no information to examine, its general method is garlic, ham and meat first sautéed in the pot, then add sauce to boil, and finally the boiled toppings are covered on the cooked noodles.
Chengdu has created many new varieties of noodles over the years, and with the change of people's tastes, many noodle varieties only exist in the data records and are gradually forgotten.
02 Chengdu is the most famous noodles and sweet water surfaces in modern times
To say that it can carry the banner of the noodle industry in modern Chengdu is not the "shouldering noodles" and "sweet water surface". The former is old enough and famous. The latter is unique in the Chengdu noodle industry with its unique taste.
Regarding the origin of Dan dan noodles, it is more accepted that it was created by a vendor named Chen Baobao in Zigong. However, there has been controversy over the territorial ownership of Dan dan noodles, because the use of peppers in Dan Dan noodles is the use of the Xiahe Gang, not the use of the Xiaohe Gang cuisine where Zigong is located. In fact, many popular noodles in Sichuan were not created by Chengdu, but because Chengdu was the most prosperous in the Bashu region at that time, many novel ways of eating and eating were carried forward in Chengdu, and people came and went as the traditional snacks of Chengdu.
It should be noted here that Dan Dan noodles were not originally a taste, nor a variety of noodles, but a way of selling.
A trembling flat shoulder, two heavy stalls. At the end of the stall is a briquette stove with a pot for cooking noodles. At the other end were bowls of chopsticks and buckets of water. Hawkers carry along the street shouting "Dan Dan noodles! Bear noodles! "
Later, the reason why dan dan noodles became a separate variety was because of its seasoning and and cheeks.
The cheeks of the dandan noodles are called "crispy noodles", and the crisp noodles on the surface of Chengdu city are now born from this. The cheek of Dan Dan noodles is to take the pork leg meat into minced meat, and then add sweet noodle sauce to fry loosely, add cooking wine to fry dry water, plus salt, pepper, monosodium glutamate and other seasonings, until the minced meat slightly spit oil can be started. And the number of dandan noodle seasonings is almost comparable to that of Chongqing small noodles. In addition to traditional salt, monosodium glutamate, soy sauce, vinegar, chili oil, sesame oil, sugar, green onions, etc., crushed rice sprouts, and even ground peanuts and sesame powder are added. With the qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, chili peppers entered Sichuan and were widely used, spicy Dandan noodles gradually appeared.
After talking about Dan Dan noodles, let's talk about another hegemon in the noodle industry in modern Chengdu - sweet water noodles.
The reason why I want to use the overlord to describe the sweet water surface is because the sweet water surface is a very special existence in the Chengdu noodle world. Because of the flour, the taste of Chengdu noodles is not as strong as the north and full of wheat aroma, so most of the noodles in Chengdu are working the toppings. The opposite is true of sweet water, and what fascinates it is the thick, solid texture and special taste of its noodles.
Sweet water, the name can easily make first-time eaters have taste misunderstandings. Whether it is sold or tasted, it will be very different from the picture made up by the diners' brains.
The surface of the sweet water is slightly thicker than the head of the chopsticks, and it is quite elastic and chewy to chew. Usually a bowl of sweet water noodles has only three noodles, and even some restaurants have only one noodle plate in the bowl of sweet water noodles. The taste of sweet water noodles is mainly sweet and spicy, with no soup water and no toppings, and it is a kind of noodle that is completely mixed from spices. So the first thing to eat about sweet water is the noodles and spices.
The bowls of sweet water noodles are usually small, but the yellow-white garlic paste, brown tahini, red sweet soy sauce, and bright red spicy red oil are drizzled on top of the white raw noodles. After a stir, let each sweet water surface be covered with a thick sauce. Find the head of the noodle and chew along the noodles a little bit. At first, a rich smell of tahini and sweet sauce will fill the mouth, and after a few moments, the spicy taste will come out mischievously, followed by the unique mixture of sweet water surface. While I was in full swing, half a bowl of noodles was gone. The thick sauce is mushy at the bottom of the bowl, and the remaining noodles are used to wrap the spices in the bowl on top of the noodles, and eat them clean in three or two bites.
The sweet water noodles are about a little later than the Dan Dan noodles, and appear around the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Ming Dynasty. However, the sweet water surface and the dandan noodles are somewhat related.
In the 1940s, Chengdu had a famous sweet water surface, known as "Baiyun Temple bears the sweet water surface". This sweet water is Mr. Barkin's favorite and has been mentioned many times in his and his friends' memoirs.
Since it is called "bearing the sweet water surface", it is natural to carry the burden and sell it. This sweet water noodles at Baiyun Temple in Chengdu are run by a middle-aged man. The noodles are made on a board less than two feet in front of you, the boiled noodles are cooked in one go, and a bowl of sweet water with pot gas is placed in front of you in a moment.
At that time, Chengdu recognized as the best sweet water noodle seasoning was made by a sauce garden shop on Zhengfu Street in Beimen. His sauce is made of red soy sauce, cooked oil spicy seeds, sesame paste, pepper oil, garlic paste and so on, and the taste is very special.
Coincidentally, chengdu's sweet water surface not only attracted Ba Jin but also the famous writer Xiao Jun. Xiao Jun came to Chengdu at the beginning of the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression and became addicted to eating sweet water. Later, when he came to Chengdu again after 54 years, Xiao Jun also went to the small shop to eat three bowls of sweet water noodles in a row, and was late to the symposium hosted by him.
It is worth mentioning that in the past, the old Chengdu people also called sweet water noodles "love noodles". At that time, Chengdu played friends, as long as they said to invite each other to eat sweet water noodles, they understood. Probably the taste of sweet water noodles is very similar to the personality of Chengdu female dolls, sweet with a hint of spicy, the taste is not weak.
There are many well-known sweet water noodle stalls in Chengdu, and many of them continue to the present, such as the sweet water noodle taste of Zhang Liang Powder and Xiao Tan Bean Flower is still the same as ever.
03 Chengdu's current types of noodles
It is said that "south powder is north", but Chengdu people are fond of eating noodles. According to a rough estimate on the data on Dianping, there are more than 14,000 noodle restaurants in Chengdu, not counting the small stall noodle restaurants that are not included.
As mentioned earlier, Chengdu people know that their noodles do not have the strength of the north and are full of wheat aroma, so they cut their brain shells on the condiments and cheeks (toppings). Over the years, almost all the new noodle varieties in Chengdu have followed this line of thinking.
Chengdu people think that classic Sichuan cuisine can be made into noodles, so there are Hui pot meat noodles, green pepper meat noodles, and chicken offal noodles on the market.
Chengdu people think that the soup water they like to eat can be made into a cheek, so there are hoof noodles, chicken soup noodles, and tomato omelette noodles on the market.
Chengdu people think that what they like to eat can be made into a cheek, so there are eel noodles, squid noodles, and brain flower noodles on the market.
Now Chengdu noodle industry has been occupied by a variety of foreign noodles half of the country, out of the door is full of Chongqing small noodles, pea noodles, Yibin noodles, and Chengdu's local strange noodles, sea noodles, sweet water surface, etc., delicious ones can be counted with their fingers.
In the end, it is caused by the picky mouth of Chengdu diners. Chengdu diners are extremely inclusive of eating. Whether it is Thai cuisine, Northeast cuisine, Northwest cuisine, or even Middle Eastern cuisine, it can have a place in Chengdu's catering industry. Chengdu people like to taste the early, but also habitually like the new and tired of the old.
The old taste can be used for memories, can be used to talk about feelings, but there is no way to deceive the mouth.
After all, the mouth of the old Chengdu diners is honest and the most stubborn.
【Past Special Features】
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The only flower that Chengdu people love most is the brain flower
Travel back in time to ancient China and how hard it is to eat an authentic hot pot