Zhuge Liang invented the delicacy - churning tuan churn □ Zhang Jun

<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="1" > churning</h1>

<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="1" >□ Zhang Jun</h1>

　　Everyone knows that there are many snacks in Shaanxi, such as meat sandwich steamed buns, cold skins, beef and mutton steamed buns, gourd heads, trouser belt noodles... Ten fingers can't be counted, and the flavors are different and distinctive. As one of the Shaanxi snacks, although it is not very conspicuous, the taste is absolutely unique.

　　"Churning", as the name suggests, is a paste-like food that is stirred with flour into balls. Its origin is not verified, it is said that when Zhuge Liang was in Xiqi (that is, in present-day Qishan County, Shaanxi), when he was a soldier, because he had been attacking the Central Plains for a long time, and did not want to retreat, the soldiers were idle, so they planted wheat and planted there for military food, but always ate pasta, the army was tired, in order to regulate the mood of the soldiers, Zhuge Liang invented this meal, the name at that time was not called Chu Tuan, but figuratively called "Water Siege City".

　　The practice of stirring up the dough is actually not complicated, but it is not easy to do well. The dry flour must first be mixed with water into a batter, until the water in the pot is boiled, slowly poured in, stirred with a stick while pouring, and then added to the flour in batches according to the thickness of the situation until it becomes thick, at this time stirring is the most critical. As the saying goes: "It is better to stir up the dough, stir a hundred." "Be sure to stir in one direction so that you can whip hard and have a flexible texture." The stove should be simmered slowly, simmered carefully, stirred vigorously, not to scorch the bottom of the pot, and wait until the dough is provoked into a sticky sheet with a churning stick, or the stick is placed in the pot without pouring, and then it is done.

　　The churned dumplings are particularly famous in the Guanzhong area of Shaanxi Province, and other places also have their own characteristics. Soba noodle churn is a favorite of the people of northern Shaanxi and an example of multigrain refined eating. And soba noodles are rich in nutrients and unique in taste, and moderate consumption is of great benefit to patients with hypertension, high blood lipids and diabetes. The potato churn in Longnan, Gansu Province, is also famous, choose the potatoes produced in the same year, good quality, cooked over high heat, dried until a little remaining temperature, and then put into the stone mortar, squeezed out of the stickiness, and then kneaded by several people in turn, so that it becomes a flexible tendon road, yellow and bright, fragrant superior churn, its production process is similar to the southern mochi. Corn dough is very popular in the Wenchuan Qiang region, and the preparation method is also very special: the fresh yellow corn flour is stirred into a paste with a fierce fire, covered with a layer of fresh and clean banana leaves, and then steamed over low heat, and served in a large bowl to cool. In fact, no matter which kind of raw material, whipping is its characteristic, the clump is its essence, and the appearance and connotation are similar.

　　However, the most authentic and delicious churn balls are still in Guanzhong. The Guanzhong region of Shaanxi Province, known as the "Eight Hundred Mile Qinchuan", is famous for its abundant wheat and corn production. Guanzhong women are good at rolling noodles, steaming pot helmets, steaming white buns, kneading dumplings, especially "stirring up the dough" with flour. People comment on whether a daughter-in-law is virtuous or not, mainly depending on how well she is stirring up the ball. Good churning dough flexible tendons, smooth and refreshing, beautiful color and fragrance, endlessly evocative.

　　The mother is a typical Guanzhong woman, needle and thread tea and rice in all kinds of line, disturbing the group is a good hand. In that era of scarcity of materials, white noodles were not enough to eat, cornmeal was rough and difficult to swallow, and my mother often made cornmeal into a churn to change the taste, so the poor and simple days were no longer so difficult. In her memory, the figure of her mother's disturbing group is very much like a dance, the rolling staff is the dance equipment she wields in her hand, and the pot stove is her stage. During the beating, the dough blooms under the hand, like a beautiful flower, which is a simple and moving visual enjoyment, and a simple and affectionate taste feast. When I think about it now, there are still ripples of happiness in my heart.

　　Although the method of stirring dough is single, there are many ways to eat it, and it can even be described as a pattern renovation. The most common way to eat is to put a ball into a bowl while it is hot, add the prepared sauerkraut soup, a pinch of stir-fried leek segments, a spoonful of oil to pour spicy seeds, stir well in the soup, and then start from the side of the bowl, pick up a piece, and send it to the mouth in the soup, soft and soft, very delicious. You can also mix cold: hot mixing dough out of the pot, spread on the board, to be cooled and shaped, cut into thin strips with a knife, like mixed cold powder, sour, spicy and salty with their respective tastes. You can also cut the dough into pieces and mix it with vegetable soup and eat it hot, fry it to warm the stomach, and it is most suitable for cold winter.

　　However, for children, eating churn is completely to soothe the hungry stomach, and there is not much interest in it, but the layer of pot that remains at the bottom of each pot is a delicious dish that I have always loved. Because it is a slow simmer, the pot formed at the bottom of the churn is crispy and crispy, and it can be enjoyed as a snack when it is shoveled down, which is also a little joy in the poor years. Later, the days gradually improved, and there were too many white noodles to eat, cornmeal was no longer used as a staple food, and the churned dough was not often eaten. After my mother's death, this unique delicacy disappeared from my family's table.

　　The "White Deer Warehouse" folk culture scenic spot, which is not far from home, is famous for displaying Guanzhong food culture, so I asked a friend to go around together. Unexpectedly encountered a shop specializing in mixing, the façade is not large, but there are many customers, and the waiting line is lined up outside the store. Entering the store to inspect, I saw a young man waving his arm and spoon to deal with a pot of churn, he arched one leg on the side of the stove, his arms were forcefully waved into a spiral, and the dough in the pot was stirred up and overturned, and the waves surged and seemed to splash out if they were not careful, which made the onlookers marvel. I was very worried about the fate of the iron pot, and I wondered if it could withstand this toss and not be leaked. This scene is almost a performance, in fact, the production skills of the mixing group are fully exerted. I waited with great interest as I admired it, and finally bought a bowl with a smooth texture and excellent taste. Listen to someone next to me sigh: "It is indeed delicious!" After a while, I'll go to the queue to grab a bowl. ”

　　The reason why the churn is delicious, the essence is in a "stirring" word, the rough and tasteless multigrain flour is beaten into a churned dough after the taste is no longer coarse, the taste has become tight and delicate from loose, and the whipping has completely changed the texture of the flour. Just like those ordinary and trivial days, once carefully polished and carefully mixed, it will flow with gold, lively and fragrant, and emit a different kind of light. Food is the same as life.

　　Recently, a small stall was set up at the entrance of the community, and it was the churning that was operated. The stall owner is a able rural woman who rents a room in the community to accompany her two children to school. Her dough is served in a handy paper bowl, butter-like balls, topped with two spoonfuls of sour celery and syrup, pinched with emerald green stir-fried leek grains, and ordered with homemade red millet hot sauce, which is both soft and crispy and the creative enjoyment of Western-style pastries. I think this woman is also like many Guanzhong women, no matter whether the days are smooth or difficult, in their eyes, palms will glow with infinite tenderness and poetry.