丨 This article was originally produced by Xiao Chen Tea
丨 First published in the headline number: Xiao Chen Tea Affair
丨Author: Village Gu Chen
《1》
There was a problem that was pulled out for a walk every once in a while.
That is, "Why can the ripe Puwo pile be drunk, but when it comes to white tea, it becomes old and the process is not good?" ”
This is a delicate question.
Wo Dui is a tea making process.
Is it normal to apply the same process to different teas?
In the eyes of some people, tea is just a very ordinary leaf, and how to process them does not care.
As long as the tea leaves you end up buying are delicious to drink, you can satisfy yourself.
But is this really the case?
There are six major types of tea in China, all of which can be collectively referred to as "tea".
But if you are trying to understand how the six major tea categories are divided, one of the methods is to follow the process.
Ripe pu belongs to black tea, and black tea and white tea are not a kind of tea.
When white tea uses the processing technology of black tea, this is obviously against the rules.
《2》
Many tea lovers are curious about Wodui.
Therefore, first of all, I would like to introduce you to the meaning of Wodui.
According to the explanation on a certain encyclopedia:
Wo Dui, is the Pu'er tea ripe tea production process in the fermentation process, but also to determine the quality of the cooked tea key point, refers to the sun-dried green hair tea stacked to a certain height (usually about 70CM) after sprinkling water, covering with linen cloth, to promote the effect of tea enzymes, so that it fermented for about 24 hours under the action of damp heat, after the tea is transformed to a certain extent, then spread out to dry. After passing through the Wodui tea, with the difference in the degree of wodui, the color has changed from green to yellow, chestnut red, chestnut black, and is academically classified as black tea.
The above elaborates on the specific method of Wo Dui and explains that it is one of the key processes in black tea making.
Secondly, let's look up the national standard of black tea again.
According to GB/T 32719.1-2016 "Black Tea" Part 1: Basic Requirements, black tea is defined.
"Black hair tea made by processing processes such as fresh leaves and young shoots of tea plants, such as greening, kneading, wodui and drying, as well as various refined tea and reprocessed tea products processed for this raw material."
It can be seen that there are relevant provisions in the national standards, and Wo Dui is a necessary process for the production of black tea.
If it does not pass through wodui, it cannot be called black tea.
Therefore, it is a matter of course that the cooked Puwo pile can be drunk, and it has already won the recognition of the state, which is an indisputable fact.
Finally, let's look up the national standard of white tea.
According to the definition in GB/T 22291-2017 "White Tea":
"Take the buds, leaves and young stems of tea plants as raw materials, wither and dry. White tea made by specific processes such as picking. ”
Obviously, the production process of white tea focuses on withering and drying.
There was no killing, no kneading, and no pile.
Wo Dui occupies an important position in black tea, but it seems out of place on white tea.
It greatly violates the requirements in the national standard of white tea, so the white tea after the pile is not really white tea.
But at the same time, it's not black tea either.
There is no green and kneading, just a pile, still can not meet the processing technology of black tea.
Therefore, the white tea after the pile has become a real monster.
It is reminiscent of the gluttony described in the Classic of Mountains and Seas, which is shaped like a sheep's human face, eyes under the armpits, and tiger teeth and human hands.
《3》
Why should white tea be piled up?
The reasons for this are mainly divided into two situations.
The first is due to the imperfect craftsmanship of the tea master.
Under normal circumstances, when the tea green is picked from the tea tree, it should be diluted and dried in a water sieve in time, 70 cm off the ground, and withered in the sun under the mild sun.
Therefore, the withering should be rapid, the temperature should be controlled, and the site should be large enough.
But if the weather is too hot, the tea green is not spread out in time, but thickly piled together, and the tea green is smothered into red in the case of high temperature and high humidity, which causes a pile.
Or the site is too small, there are not enough manpower, it is difficult to thinly spread a large number of tea greens in a short period of time, which will also cause piles.
All kinds of reasons are due to the lack of experience of tea masters and the imperfect production technology.
But at the same time, I feel sorry that this is a bad consequence caused by negligence.
Even if the process of white tea is the most simple of the six major types of tea, it still requires exquisite tea making technology to make good white tea.
If it is only casually basked in what he says among his population, then everyone can go up the mountain to make tea.
The second is to make white tea old.
Wodui is one of the ways to make the old, in addition to the exposure to the sun, high temperature drying, blending and so on.
Wo pile, so that the original leaf aldehyde of the tea leaves volatilizes a large number, losing the fresh breath of the new white tea period.
And the original fresh emerald green tea green, quickly turned into dark brown, a lifeless appearance, close to the appearance of old white tea in some people's hearts.
Of course, its outer packaging is also marked with the three big words of "old white tea".
Some black-hearted merchants call it an old white tea that is 5 years old, 10 years old, or even 20 years old.
And the price, there are highs and lows.
As low as 9.9 a cake, as high as a thousand yuan a cake, even more than some years of real old white tea.
There is no need for long-term aging, and there is no need for standardized tea storage warehouses.
Aged tea only needs to rely on processes such as Wo Heap, and it can be sold at the highest price at the lowest cost.
If the former is due to the consequences of negligence, then the latter is deliberate.
They knew that Wo Dui would have a bad impact on white tea, but they still did it.
Why?
Just for a "profit" word.
《4》
Can you still drink the white tea after the pile?
This issue depends on the situation.
There was once a tea friend who held a picture of the 2018 autumn shoumei and came to identify whether it was old tea.
When you see the picture, the color is slightly brown, although it is not bright enough, but it is not black.
And the bar is slightly curly, not enough to relax, and there is still a certain difference between the autumn shoumei after the careful sunlight withering that we usually see.
Therefore, it is judged that this white tea is indeed suspected of being a pile.
But I am more inclined to think that this is due to the negligence of the tea master, the technology is not refined, resulting in the pile, rather than deliberately old.
If you make sure that there are no peculiar smells and strange smells in this white tea, and the green leaves are still more retained.
In such a case, it is still possible to drink.
However, even if it is a slight pile of white tea, its contents will also cause loss, slightly thin.
The aroma and taste are much fainter than those of exquisitely crafted white tea.
Therefore, in order to give yourself a better tea drinking experience, you still need a good white tea with exquisite craftsmanship.
If the white tea is old, it becomes unrecognizable, and the whole body shows terrible colors such as dark brown and coffee.
In addition, there may be some unpleasant odors such as unpleasant taste, sour taste, and musty taste.
Well, such tea is not worth drinking.
Because in the process of making old, the endoplasm in white tea has long been depleted in large quantities, and there is little nutrient left in the finished tea.
Even if you soak it for three or five minutes with a lidded bowl, all that comes out is a faint tea smell.
It is absolutely impossible to have a full and mellow soup like old white tea.
The long-term pile of heaps has already hurt the white tea to the skin.
If you insist on drinking old tea, you are not only torturing your taste buds, but also adding a burden to your body.
If so, why insist on drinking old tea?
《5》
To this day, there are still people who recognize the white tea after the wodui.
Holding the theory that "since black tea can be, white tea can also be", it is said that the taste of white tea is more mellow.
For such a person, just say, you like it.
No one can wake up a person who pretends to be asleep, and no one can pull a person who covers his ears and steals a bell on the right path.
Our real purpose is only to let the masses know the harm caused by Wodui to white tea.
Lay out the facts and be reasonable.
Since strict regulations have been made in the national standard, what reason is there to argue?
What is right is right, and what is wrong is wrong.
The wodui of black tea is recognized by the industry and escorted by the national standard.
And Wodui's white tea is contrary to the national standard and violates the industry standard!
The sleeping man is still asleep.
And sober people, under the illumination of the bright lights, traveled all the way...
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Xiao chen tea village gu Chen, columnist, tea industry original new media "Xiao Chen tea matter" chief writer, has published a white tea monograph "White Tea Tasting Notes", 2016-2020 has written more than 4,000 original articles.