Jianshui ancient name "Lin'an", here, there is a thousand years of charm of the ancient town, more than a hundred years of meter rail small train, a historic Chaoyang Building, as well as witnessed the history of the "Seventeen Hole Bridge", integrated with multi-ethnic characteristics of the Jianshui minor tune...
Jianshui is not only a place of interest and historical site, it is also one of the most prestigious places for food in southern Yunnan.
A hundred years ago, with the fusion of Han culture, Jianshui chefs inherited the traditional craftsmanship left by their ancestors and passed on the story behind each dish to the present day.
Today, we want to talk about the leader in Jianshui cuisine - "Lin'an Ten Dishes", these ten dishes can be described as swallowing the taste of a century-old history into the stomach.
Talking about "Lin'an Ten Dishes", we must talk about Xing Fangqi, the producer of Lin'an Ten Dishes.
Xing Fangqi, who started in the chef industry in 1985, has been in the industry for more than 32 years and is now a national special third-level chef and senior public nutritionist. In Xing Fangqi's past few years, he has always adhered to his own culinary philosophy, he believes that to do a good job in every dish, the first thing is to be attentive, only by studying each ingredient with heart and being perfect in the details can we make dishes that satisfy guests.
Xing Fangqi felt that we must respect local traditions, regional culture and eating habits.
Finally, we must have the courage to boldly innovate on the basis of respecting tradition, integrate into food culture, let each dish have a soul and a foundation like a person, and make each dish fresh and full.
In 1998, when Xing Fangqi first arrived in Jianshui, he was attracted by Jianshui's abundant ingredients, and since then, he has carefully studied the traditional dishes of Jianshui.
Lin'an Ten Dishes are made by Xing Fangqi relying on Jianshui's thousand-year-old profound cultural heritage and rich products.
Lin'an Ten Dishes
Qi Wang plays Feng
Steam pot is a local specialty of Jianshui, Sanqi is a unique precious medicinal material in Yunnan, the clever Jianshui people skillfully combined these two ingredients to achieve the first dish of Lin'an Ten Dishes - Qi Wang Xi Feng (Sanqi Steam Pot Chicken).
Sanqi steam pot chicken has been in the food industry for many years, not only is jianshui local people every New Year's Festival, wedding feast indispensable delicacies, but also a delicacy sought after by the people of the whole country.
To make a steam pot chicken, you must first talk about the steam pot.
Jianshui is rich in clay, and local craftsmen make clay steamers, which have a unique structure, a flat belly, and a hollow tube in the middle, and steam enters the pot chamber along this tube to steam the ingredients, thus maintaining the original taste of the ingredients.
The steam pipe of the steam pot is exactly where the delicious mechanism lies.
Xing Fangqi said that the steam pot must be used with the boiling water steamer, and cannot be dry burned. The steamer containing water is placed on the fire, the steam pot is placed on the steam pot, the ingredients are placed in the steam pot, as the water in the steam pot is heated to boiling, a large amount of water vapor generated pours into the steam pot through the steam pot steam pipe, is blocked by the steam pot lid, poured into the inside of the steam pot, the high temperature of the steam steam steam cooks the ingredients; after the steam condenses into soup, it accumulates in the steam pot. In this process, Xing Fangqi said, it is precisely because of the "steam pot" that the two cooking methods of steaming and cooking are integrated to create a delicious "steam pot chicken".
With a steam pot that is steamed and boiled, it is essential to choose a good chicken. Xing Fangqi said that among the ten dishes in Lin'an, he made this "Qi Wang Xi Feng" preferred to build a local native chicken in Jianshui. Jianshui native chicken, free range breeding all over the field all year round, hungry to eat mountain wild fruits, thirsty to drink forest stream water, so whether male or female, each has a beautiful feather, the meat is fat and tender, the taste is more delicious.
Chicken fat is greasy, thin and tasteless; therefore, when Xing Fangqi chooses ingredients, in addition to the requirements must be Jianshui native chicken, followed by fat and thin, it can be described as "the best of the best". After the carefully selected Jianshui chicken is slaughtered and washed, it is chopped into small pieces and put into the steam pot, and then add simple ingredients such as three or seven sticks, goji berries, ginger, spring onions, and fine salt. The steam pot chicken after the pot is not only original, but also nourishing.
Three strands of tusk
There is a strange thing in southeast Yunnan, called "grass roots are sold as ivory", which refers to the grass buds of Jianshui, its rhizomes are cylindrical, the top is cone-shaped, and the shape resembles ivory, so it is called grass buds.
Grass buds are milky white in color, sweet and crisp and tender, after collection, must be soaked in water, cooked to take out, and the grass buds picked in the morning, after the night, there is no longer the initial sweet and crisp, so the grass buds also have the "delicious taste that cannot be taken away by the water". Xing Fangqi said that this "rare ingredient" is inseparable from the abundant water quality, fertile soil and suitable temperature of Jianshui.
Among the ten dishes in Lin'an, this "three-silk pickled ivory" is the most memorable. Xing Fangqi introduced that when cooking, first remove the older parts of the most tender grass buds bought in the morning, place them neatly on the plate, and then burn a bowl of broth to pour, because the grass buds are tender enough to cook in an instant, and then with the juice of ham shreds and green and red pepper shreds, a delicacy will be on the table.
Itai Tofu
Jianshui has countless ancient wells, each well has several footstep prints, those are rounded by the soles of the shoes, the water in the grooves left between the stones, people carefully pour the well water into the container, and the early morning of the construction of the water large plate well begins in the sound of water flow.
Jianshui boiled tofu, famous throughout the country. The charcoal fire at the tofu stall in the ancient city burned from morning until late at night. And Jianshui tofu is delicious, the secret lies in the water here, made of large plate well water, its texture is tender, the taste is crisp. Xing Fangqi said that jianshui, which does not produce soybeans, relies on the luscious dabanjing well water to make the famous Banjing tofu in the country, and also achieves the delicious Banjing tofu of Lin'an Shi cuisine.
The method of Itai tofu can be steamed in a steam pot, sprinkled with pepper and salt, or fried in hot oil to make crispy yellow, smeared with locally prepared dipping water, it is simply delicious.
The goat kneels
Sheep is a vine plant in Jianshui Mountain, because of its juicy stem, is the favorite food of goats, but Jianshui is more mountainous, so the goats have to kneel with their front hooves and eat it, so the Jianshui people named this sheep dish meat goat kneeling milk.
After Xing Fangqi picked the goat milk vegetables, they were dried until semi-dry and crushed into powder, allowing them to ferment naturally. Wait until the marinade is ready, stir-fried with sugar, tempeh, sauerkraut, spread on a few slices of fat and moderate pork belly steamed together, steamed until the pork belly is oily and discolored, this dish is good. Because the sour taste of the goat milk dish itself fully dissolves the greasy pork belly, so that the whole dish is fat and not greasy, very rice.
Snow gold flowers
Jianshui has not yet reached the spring, the mountains are full of bitter thorn flowers, and Yunnan people have a habit of eating flowers, these bitter thorn flowers everywhere on the table of Jianshui people.
Xing Fangqi said that although there are many bitter thorn flowers, they are bitter. After blanching the bitter thorn flowers in boiling water, and then immersing them in cold water, he can remove its bitter taste, stir-fry them with shredded ham and tempeh, and sprinkle them with fine wires cut from the golden egg skin, so that a delicious dish - snow golden flowers is born.
Will folks
Because of its suitable climate and fertile land, Jianshui has always been rich in sand (sweet potato).
Xing Fangqi said that in the era of living a hard life, when the local people in Jianshui visited relatives and friends, they would pick the best sweet potatoes in their homes as gifts, so there were such intimate dishes as "Hui Villagers" in Lin'an Ten Dishes.
Now, with the improvement of people's living standards, fried sweet potatoes are no longer served as a single product, but with nine-hole lotus root and glutinous rice intestines to make a platter, which can be described as "a dish with three flavors, delicious in Lin'an".
Green round rich duck
Jianshui has been rich in water since ancient times, and under this rich water system, ducks and geese are very easy to breed, of which the Jianshui hemp duck is the most famous.
Xing Fangqi chose the fat and tender Qujiang hemp duck, first rinse the water to remove the fishy taste, fry it with high temperature to make it crisp, and then steam it with water, the crispy skin of the duck becomes smooth and tender, and finally it is accompanied by seasonal green peas, which are juicy, fat and not greasy.
Such exquisite cuisine naturally has a rich and auspicious name - Qingyuan Rich Duck. Xing Fangqi said that such a delicacy, which used to be enjoyed only by the portals of dignitaries or family dignitaries, is now a must-have dish for ordinary people to celebrate the New Year's Festival.
Goldfish playing lotus
The abundant water system and the warm climate make it the best place for crucian carp to grow. Although crucian carp is rich in nutrients and delicious meat, it is always troublesome because of its small spines. The goldfish in Lin'an Ten Dishes solves this problem for diners who love crucian carp deliciousness, and also makes crucian carp taste buds improve.
Xing Fangqi first selects a small crucian carp half the size of a palm, first fried until crispy and golden brown, and then stewed with the Jade Lotus pickles loved by Jianshui locals.
When the sweet and sour taste of jade lotus pickles meet the fried crucian carp, after stewing, the bones of the crucian carp slowly soften, melting in the mouth, making people addicted. Therefore, this "goldfish play lotus" has become a lin'an delicacy that everyone likes.
Lin'an Three Treasures
Jianshui tofu is famous all over the world, but the by-product of tofu (okara) is basically uneaten. In the Ten Dishes of Lin'an, Xing Fangqi made full use of this humble okara to achieve a dish of "Lin'an Three Treasures" in the Ten Dishes.
Xing Fangqi introduced that after the rinsed soybean milk soybean residue is fried in lard, it is decorated with Yunnan famous leg Yiwei ham and local parsley, and then poured with tomato stir-fried toppings, and this refreshing delicacy is born. This bowl of refined okara, paired with a bowl of soybean balls and fragrant edamame puree, is served in three colors of "red, yellow and green", which makes people salivate.
White jade tofu
In addition to the world-famous roasted tofu, Jianshui also has a bean-made delicacy for all ages - rice tofu. Xing Fangqi used this common rice tofu to make one of the ten dishes - white jade tofu.
First, the rice tofu made of soybean paste is cut into square pieces, each piece is about one centimeter thick, the skin is fried in hot oil to make it crispy, and then stir-fried with more than ten kinds of spices such as tempeh, pepper, pepper and pepper, so that the fried rice tofu is dried and flavorful, and the entrance is soft and sticky.
Wen Zhao Xiong
Figure Meng Zhigang Li Peilun Honghe Cultural Tourism
Edited by Gong Yidan
Editor-in-charge of this issue is Zhang Lingjie and Li Yuan
Reviewed by Ma Bo Liu Li