There is tradition in the middle of the miscellaneous
Rough in the middle of the exquisite
Retain the taste of Beijing
Passing on the culture of gastronomy
Food culture in Beijing
Same as the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, and the Summer Palace
All are indispensable to the city
Important signs and cultural symbols
And all kinds of cuisine in Beijing
It is the food culture of Beijing
An integral part
Today, The Cultural Tourism Jun introduces you
Beijing refreshments "Peach Crisp" and "Sage Horse"
Refreshments are a delicate snack that accompanies tea drinking activities. The difference between the north and the south is relatively large. Refreshments in Beijing developed from the lifestyle of the nobility. In the Qing Dynasty novel "Dream of the Red Chamber", a large number of types of refreshments taken by nobles when drinking tea are described, with small patterns, changeable tastes, and cute shapes. Aiwowo, pea yellow, row fork, mung bean cake are all teas that Beijingers often eat. The variety of refreshments in Beijing is very rich, ranging from sweet to salty, crispy to crispy, cottony and hard. Different teas, pay attention to pairing different dim sum. For example, Pu'er tea can be paired with meat snacks, preserved meat or roasted; green tea can be paired with milk, such as saqima and milk cake. Simplicity and simplicity are self-indulgent.
In Shazikou, The southern city of Beijing, there is a shop specializing in peach crisps, and the business is very good. The people who come to buy peach crisps are packed in boxes for hundreds of hundreds. Because, peach crisp is an easy snack to preserve. In fact, peach crisp is short, the full name should be called "walnut crisp". I think there should have been walnuts in the earliest. It was later turned into a pure flour practice.
The charm of peach puff pastry is in "crisp", the core of the puff pastry is made with oil and noodles. Oil has been a precious ingredient since the day it was born. Therefore, when the oil is reluctant to use, it is necessary to use water and noodles. The direct consequence of water and surface is the "hard state". In the past, there was a cross-talk, saying that a piece of peach crisp fell off the road, and before it could be picked up, a large truck drove past, just pressed on the peach crisp. Before I had time to feel pain, the car drove past to see that the peach crisp was intact, that is, it was embedded in the road, and it had to be pried by the rice bar. Jokes are jokes, but it can be seen from here that peach crisp has experienced a period of "no crisp".
People who are now in their sixties and seventies have a clear memory of peach crisps - sweet and delicious pastries. Usually placed in a tin biscuit barrel, when it is particularly hungry, the adult will break a piece. Therefore, ordinary people of this age rarely eat whole pieces of peach crisp when they are young. Therefore, some people say that peach puff pastry is round, and some people say that peach puff pastry is square. Their childhood was full of imaginations of peach crisps.
In fact, there are also dim sum similar to the peach crisp method abroad, but it is not called this name. In Central Asia, craftsmen used butter and noodles, and this method of baking is still available today and has long been transmitted to China. However, the price of milk can be more expensive than oil, 1 kg of milk can extract about 1.5 grams of butter, so most of our shortening snacks are made in large oil. Beijingers love peach crisp so much, their hometown is not in Beijing. Jiangxi Yingtan is the nationally certified "hometown of Chinese peach crisp". There are more than 100,000 people in the city who make peach crisp enterprises across China. In any case, peach crisps have a history of many years in Beijing, and even entered the court, so there are court peach crisps. In the palace peach crisp, there should be some walnuts, in addition to the understanding of hunger, there are also some cough relief effects. People who grow up in the palace may be able to eat a whole piece of peach crisp. Peach crisp and white rabbit milk candy are the sweet childhood of children in the 1960s and 1970s.
Sagema is a Manchu word meaning "cut" or "cut open". We can understand it as a kind of "cake cutting". Saqima was a sacrificial food of the Qing Dynasty and later became a traditional folk snack in Beijing. Saqima also has a name, called "dog tits dipped in sugar", and there are also written "horse tits dipped in sugar", dog tits and horse tits are goji berries. From the name, it is clear that the sage horse is a sweet tooth cut into large pieces with goji berries.
This sweet tooth has no seasonality and can be eaten all year round. This is not much different from the past. But in terms of practice, there are still some differences. According to the archives in the Forbidden City, the Manchu royal family was very fond of dairy products. There are even records that the queen uses eighty pounds of fresh milk a day. In addition to expressing the noble class status of the empress, this number can also explain the importance of dairy products to the Manchu royal family. Drink, it must not be drunk. In addition to the rewards, it is also very likely that it will be used to make a snack. Take, for example, Sagema.
One way to do this is to use rock sugar, cream, white flour, eggs and good noodles, cut into thin strips and fry them in the pan. After frying, sprinkle with goji berries or, depending on preference, add other dried fruits.
Now the Sachima is simple to do and can be operated even at home. Flour, oil, eggs, sugar and honey are enough. A simpler way to do this is to replace the flour with ready-made noodles, thus eliminating the need for the noodles. Fry directly in the pan, fry well, put it in a square container, then boil the sugar juice with sugar and honey, pour it on the fried noodles, and press the shape. Finally, embellish with goji berries and the like. After drying, the sweet and delicious sage horse is successfully made.
Sachima taste sweet and fluffy, golden color, sweet but not greasy, melt in the mouth, fragrant and delicious, delicious and not sticky teeth, the elderly and children like to eat. But it has always been expensive. The nobles in the palace may be easier to eat, but the folk people still can't do whatever they want.
In the novella "Bean Juice" by contemporary female writer Ye Guangqian, when the author was a child, he did not like to eat the leftovers cooked with the bean juice made by his mother, so her mother had to bring the snack box at home and let the child pick something to eat. The author said that she picked a piece of sage horse, took a slot cake, and was about to reach for a piece of red mooncake, and her mother said, enough! In fact, that night, there was a homeless woman picked up by the author's father, but the author's mother only cooked for her the leftover bean juice of the evening, and did not take out the snack box. It can be seen that Sachima is indeed a good thing, outsiders do not give food, and the biological daughter must also save some food.
Content source: "Old Beijing Narrative Food Famous Food"
Image source: Visual China