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Jia Pingwo: Northwest on the tip of the tongue - Shaanxi cuisine

Jia Pingwo: Northwest on the tip of the tongue - Shaanxi cuisine

Wen 丨 Jia Ping concave

This thick loess soil of Shaanxi, due to different regions, different ethnic groups, different products, and different climates, constitutes its rich and peculiar customs, and snacks from all over the world are a manifestation of this custom. Therefore, when I was making a historical, economic, and cultural investigation of Shaanxi, snacks could not but arouse my interest. Fortunately, the ambiguity of interest and the use of a pen to record unexpectedly made me understand our Shaanxi more, understand the disposition of our Shaanxi people, and also have a lot of use for my creation.

Mash

Mash is heavy on mashing. The rice is soaked in a water purification tank, and the amount of water is measured by submerged rice, soaking at eight o'clock in summer and twelve o'clock in winter. The rice heart is soft, the water is dry, the cage is steamed for half a time, repeatedly poured with cool water, the temperature drops below three degrees, empty water, scattered on the case mixed with glutinous powder, loaded into the cylinder, flattened on the top, and poked a hole about half an inch in diameter in the middle with a wooden stick from the top to the bottom. After that, cover the grass pad, surround the grass circle, and after three days and three nights, it will be ready.

Jia Pingwo: Northwest on the tip of the tongue - Shaanxi cuisine

The seller is many old men, there are special small stoves, special copper pots. Pulling the bellows, bu bu made a noise, a gray crumb, and the sound of selling. The visitor sat down on a long, thin stool in front of the stove and said, "A bowl of mash, an egg." The seller repeated in a long voice: "A bowl of mash, an egg——! "Add a bowl of water to the copper pot, put the saccharin, boil it three times and two times, knock an egg into the pot on the edge of the pot, put the appropriate amount of mash, and then boil, float the foam, add yellow cinnamon, and quickly get up and pour it into the bowl.

Want to ask the characteristics? Sweet and sour taste, can quench thirst, stomach, invigorate blood.

Lamb steamed buns

Bone, sheep bone, whole lamb bone, put in a pot of water and simmer over high heat, after two o'clock foam, skimmed clean. Put the old seasoning bag to enhance the flavor, put down the meat pieces, and change to the new seasoning bag to add flavor. Cover with meat plate compaction. After that, the fire burned and hissed, and then the fire was simmered, and people could turn off the lights and fall asleep. When I woke up, the room was full of mellow aromas, and I saw that the meat was rotten and the soup was thick, and its color was like milk. This lamb preparation method.

Nine tenths of flour, one tenth of yeast. Mix, stir well, knead. Make two or two steamed bun embryos, if [left food right beggar] [left food right beggar] shape, [left food right beggar] edge ridge. Under the baking, can be leisurely warm wine, the wine is not hot, then open the hammer, take the flat and let go of the palm, in the upper commotion, the palm of the hand is induced to itch, this bread making method.

Jia Pingwo: Northwest on the tip of the tongue - Shaanxi cuisine

Diners, paying for not food to open their mouths, clean hands to break steamed buns, broken like bees [left moon right upper and lower leeks]. One is to experience the fun of handicrafts, the other is to talk about the art of literature and family business, how to break the steamed buns, large, small, thick, fine, enough to see the temperament of the eater; the cook according to its steamed bun shape, split the soup, dry bubbles, water siege, single walk and other methods of cooking, and with steamed soup, soup seasoning, martial fire urgent cooking, timely loading bowls. Ten years of cooking, in the operation room, I know the appearance of each person who eats, which is even better than the Mai Xiangshi of Liuzhuang.

Xi'an Wuwei Lane has a weng and a high life expectancy of seventy. Twenty years ago, I came to eat once a day, broke the bun and waited for it to be cooked, bought three buns to break, ate a bowl, and brought back the broken buns. Tomorrow, the shredded buns will be cooked and the new steamed buns will be bought. And so on, without interruption. On his deathbed, when he died of steamed bread, his family put the broken bun on the side of his head and put it into the coffin.

The mountain face

Qishan is a county that is rich in wheat and good at eating noodles. There are nine character orders: tough and soft light, sour and spicy, fried and fragrant. Tough and soft light refers to the quality of noodles, sour and spicy wang refers to the quality of spices, and pan-fried fragrance refers to the quality of soup water.

Qishan noodles seem to be easy, but to achieve the true taste is not ordinary people can, there are many fake signs on the market, the custom to distinguish its authenticity, a look at the face [left fire right view] method and noodle rolling method will know.

Jia Pingwo: Northwest on the tip of the tongue - Shaanxi cuisine

The cheeks, the pork, must be cut into pieces with the skin, crushed and not porridge. Heat up the pot with oil, throw it in, sauté the minced ginger and seasoning noodles. When the water dries, cook the vinegar in a pan to flush out the white smoke. After the soy sauce is killed, add water and boil. When the skin of the meat can be pinched, put salt and simmer until the meat is rotten and scooped out. Roll out the noodles, alkali and water, hydrate the noodles, knead into flocculents, into balls, coiled back. After rubbing, after rubbing, repeating. Then roll out as thin as paper, cut like a thread, roll the underwater pot like a lotus, fish into a bowl of shreds, pour the cheeks, only eat the noodles instead of drinking soup.

In Qishan Mountain, it is a woman's skill to be able to roll out long faces, otherwise it is regarded as a shame for the family. On the morning of the second day of marrying the daughter-in-law, there is a solemn ceremony for rolling noodles: after the guests are seated, the new daughter-in-law personally rolls the noodles to show her ability. Therefore, when her daughter was seven years old, her mother taught her the skill of setting up a stool to roll out a cane in front of the case.

Cool skin

It is summer food, but there are sales on the cold days of Sanjiu, there are fewer eaters, there are fewer male eaters, more women, more women of the miao age, and more women of the half-old Xu Niang.

Preparation method: a pound of flour with two pounds of water, poured in three times, first and into a thick paste, and then successively add water and thin, add salt, add alkali, thin pulp with a hand spoon to lift the chopsticks thick strip is appropriate. The cage is covered with white gauze, the batter is poured on it, spread two points thick, thin and even, steamed by fire, and the air is round, about six or seven minutes to cook. The dough is fastened from the cage grate, each skin is smeared with a layer of vegetable oil, stacked together to cool, and cut into thin strips with a swing knife.

Jia Pingwo: Northwest on the tip of the tongue - Shaanxi cuisine

The seller does not need to weigh when selling, three fingers and one pinch, three bowls, bowls and bowls are equal, not less than one, more than one. Add blanched mung bean sprouts, add salt, vinegar, add sesame paste, and then pinch with three fingers, three or four in the chili oil basin and dip them into the bowl, white is green and white, red is bright red, and the lips are salivating.

Remember: Don't forget to bring a handkerchief when eating cold skin, otherwise eating a mouth along the red will hurt the dignity.

Gourd head

The same as lamb bubbles, different from lamb bubbles, the same are all steamed buns, the other is lamb, one is pork, and pork is limited to the intestines.

Historical records: Sun Simiao ate "offal" at a snack bar in Chang'an that specializes in pig intestines, felt that the intestines were fishy and greasy, and asked the shopkeeper, knowing that the production was not legal. Follow the tips, leave the medicine gourd to the store to taste. Since then, the "offal" has changed its old taste, the aroma is overflowing, and the customers are full of doors. The shopkeeper was grateful to Sun Simiao, and specially hung the medicine gourd high on the door head, and gradually, the gourd head took its name.

Jia Pingwo: Northwest on the tip of the tongue - Shaanxi cuisine

Hulutou three production process, processing intestines, boiling soup, [left water right up and down] [left food right evil]. Twelve intestinal procedures: [left handle right right], pinch, scrape, turn, pick, return, and then [left handle right right], rinse, re-pinch, re-pinch, boil, dry, dirty and greasy off. Boiling soup must be smashed with original bones, out of the bone oil soup water milky white, under the fat hen, large peppercorns, star anise, shangyuan gui, high fire small fire soup thick and stop. When [left water right upper and lower 卯] when the intestine is cut "slope knife shape", five pieces of six pieces can be, row

List on the broken buns, boil the soup, three or four times, add cooked lard, monosodium glutamate, seasoning water.

When the southerners first saw the gourd head, they were all horrified, thinking that their stomachs were invincible, and they barely ate it, and they suddenly felt fresh and fragrant, so they chewed it and did not die. Some Cantonese people imitate the law in Yangcheng, but the taste is not enough.

Folk customs: weak and soft people should eat more, and be strong for a long time. This is probably related to the medicine king Sun Simiao.

Osmanthus thick wine

First, soaking rice: clear water into the tank, submerging the rice, wooden scoop stirring so that the dirt floats and discards. Four o'clock is appropriate.

Second, steamed rice: basket, burn on high heat, cook up to 80%, away from the fire, water, first rice in the middle and around the cage, the temperature can be reduced to less than three degrees.

Third, mix the koji: spread out flat on the case, sprinkle the curved surface, mix, need to be even.

Fourth, load the cylinder: first place a wooden stick, in the center of the cylinder, the rice from all sides into the gently pat pressure, after the wooden core rotation and withdrawal, the mouth into a trumpet shape. Cover it with a white cloth, add a soft round grass pad, keep it at thirty degrees celsius, and cook it after three days.

Fifth, over the wine: the cylinder mouth horizontally placed two wooden sticks, copper wire rose on it, how much wine sauce is poured in the rose, how much raw water is used to pour down several times, hands into the wine sauce to transfer, stir, rub, press, repeatedly, the wine is dried.

Add saccharin to the wine, add osmanthus flowers, heat and bring to a boil.

Jia Pingwo: Northwest on the tip of the tongue - Shaanxi cuisine

General wine is clarified, this wine is viscous, general wine is spicy and spicy, and this wine is sweet. Villagers can drink, citizens can drink, the elderly can drink, children can drink, men can drink, women can drink, stomach, blood, thirst, lungs.

Legend has it that Taibai drank this wine and wrote a hundred poems. Therefore, the literati have always gone to Chang'an to drink osmanthus thick wine. Now there is a student who wants to be a poet, and every time he goes to the hotel to drink for inspiration, but when he gets three bowls, he is drunk, incoherent, and does not know the way home.

Pulp water surface

"Lower Riba" meal. Those who do not eat will never eat, and those who like to eat will eat when they die.

City people make pulp: add water to the pot, hold long chopsticks in one hand, sprinkle noodles in the other hand, stir and sprinkle while sprinkling, stir well and bring to a boil. Put the vinegar and washed celery in the jar, put the boiled noodle soup into the jar, and let it be sun-dried for six or seven days, and the soup is milky white. The countrymen make pulp simply, soak the half-cooked radish tassels and cabbage in an urn, and pour a few spoonfuls of the clear soup of grits porridge into it, and it will be completed in six or seven days.

Noodles under the pot, pulp pot can be, noodle bowl pouring pulp can also be, depending on the taste, but indispensable meat oil, garlic seedlings. Eating in winter can keep warm, and eating in summer can cool off. Don't add vinegar again, vinegar is astringent, remember.

This food is popular in the countryside, rare in cities, and has always been regarded as a cheap food. As everyone knows, the taste of the pulp water surface lies in the light, the light square is the original taste of food, the true taste, the diet is to protect the life of the people, if you regard yourself as elegant, the pursuit of exquisite taste, it will put the cart before the horse, and harm Qingqing's health. Zeng Fengchuan: Pulp water causes cancer, this malicious slander.

Persimmon paste

Eat in Lintong.

Lintong has fire crystal persimmons, fire like fire, bright as crystals, fine flesh, and no hard core. Eat one and think twice, and think of the whole family. However, the seasons are limited and it is not easy to bring, so the persimmon paste collapsed.

Peel and pluck the soft persimmons, stir them in a basin to form a paste, add flour, and make persimmon batter.

It is carried by iron sheet, and the convex side of the outer concave is two centimeters high.

The hand spatula spreads the batter into the hand, puts it together in the frying pan, and frys it; the batter is cooked to 50%, floating off the hand, turning over, and frying; so that the two sides of the fire are evenly colored several times and can be eaten.

But many buyers can't bear to eat, the color is too golden and lovely, eat in the mouth, and can't bear to bite, half of the belly, the result is burned heart.

Lintong people fried paste collapse taste is the best, the oil pot in front of the crowd is often full, there is a single stick only to see and do not buy, open mouth and nose to suck the taste, even fat head and ears.

Powdered fish

The name fish, in fact, is not like a fish, cool as a tadpole. Many outsiders do not know the practice, and the Qin people have jokers who boast that they have kneaded them one by one by hand, which makes outsiders marvel.

Qin people can do it all ages, according to cool water and alum to rub the bean flour into a hard ball, and then use cold water and powder paste to make it tough. The pot water boils, the powder paste is slowly poured in, stirred, the powder paste is cooked thoroughly, the fire is pressed, the wooden spoon is placed on the bottom and then stirred, the pot is away from the fire, take the colander, and put it under the leaking cold water basin; "fish", then vivid also.

The colander was first made of gourd scoops, and the fire chopsticks were burned and leaked; then they were made of tile; now most of them are aluminum products.

Leaking rain can be cold to eat, slippery, soft, but when the mouth is about to bite, it goes down the throat, and there is a sense of beauty of live swallowing. Easy to be full, but also easy to hunger. In the summer, there are stunned boys who sit down to eat two bowls, play noisy loose pants belts, smoke a cigarette, stand up and eat two bowls, so that the heat of the summer is gone, and the liquid is full of wind.

Winter eating is to pay attention to stir-fried powder, pan heat, drizzle a little clear oil, the green onion slightly fried, pour powder fish fried, add sugar color, seasoning, covered with porcelain bowls, after a minute or two, the color yellow fragrance spray is ready. When the seller saw the woman leading the child by, she shouted loudly, and the child was tempted not to leave, and the woman fed the child, while scolding the child for being hungry, but always fed the child two spoons, and poured a spoon into her mouth.

Bacon meat and steamed buns

It's not bacon, it's salted, it's soup. Soup, Chen soup, two years a year, three generations and four generations, the older the taste is more mellow, the better; boiled, meat into the soup pot, meat skin up, plus shao wine, salt, rock sugar, green onion, ginger pieces, fennel, cinnamon, grass fruit, high heat boiling, small heat turning, water open round but not turning waves. 

Eat bacon meat can be eaten alone, under the wine with rice can also be, but really want to appreciate its flavor, it is best to eat with the freshly baked hot white steamed bun, which is the so-called "meat sandwich bun". It is the steamed bun sandwiched with meat, partially called meat sandwiched bun, the buyer in order to emphasize the beauty of meat, but also can not care about the norms of language, strange is that this obviously wrong name all eaters admit, can see the power of meat beauty.

Jia Pingwo: Northwest on the tip of the tongue - Shaanxi cuisine

Now the townspeople do not like to eat fat meat, butcher shops all day long in the back door to pull the relationship station long queue to buy lean meat, but this meat fat is not greasy, thin is no slag, deeply favored by eaters, so in recent years there are many town operators, streets and alleys everywhere can be seen shops.  

There are Shanghai women to Xi'an, waist diet to be slim and not to die, in front of a shop hesitated, salivating but did not dare to eat, the owner understands, chewing, mouth full of oil, said: "My family operates bacon meat for three generations, I eat six meat sandwich steamed buns every day for fifty years, you see I am fat and not piled up meat, thin and not exposed." The woman went to eighty shops in a row, saw that the sellers were all capable, believed that the people's advertisements were accurate, and opened her teeth.

Pot of oil tea

Late at night, there is a little light in the town alley, and it comes slowly, that is, selling pots of oil tea. The seller is an old man, wearing a felt hat in winter, and a fan on his summer pants, shouting loudly and suppressing the clouds.

The so-called oil tea, that is, flour, seasoning noodles and cold water stirred into a thick paste, slowly slipped into the pot of boiling water to stir, even without pimples, and then add almonds, sesame seeds, indica rice, slightly heat while stirring. Add soy sauce, salt noodles, pepper, msg and simmer over low heat. It is completely necessary to stir the work, stir the color yellow, the oil tea thickens, and there are crack marks on the surface.

Jia Pingwo: Northwest on the tip of the tongue - Shaanxi cuisine

The so-called pot pot, that is, a large kettle with a handle and a long mouth, in order to keep warm, wrapped in a cotton sleeve, such as a pot to dress. Especially in winter, its bloated and swollen body, placed there, the old man is a standing pot, the pot is a squatting old man.

There are dramas, dances, and meetings at night, and pot oil tea has become the best food for the night. Just the old man shouted: "Hot oil tea!" Hot oil tea! "Poured into a bowl but it is cold.

Qianxian pot helmet

One of the eight monsters in Guanzhong: the steamed bun resembles a pot lid. The cover is flat, the helmet is convex, and hard, knocking like stone like iron. A year, there are teenagers from the grandmother's house with pot helmets back, hail in the middle, all eggs are big, smashed many chickens and sheep, teenagers put pot helmets on their heads, have the function of hard hats, walk ten miles, no injuries, no rupture of the buns.

Hard, but crisp, toothless old people especially like, nest mouth and mouth moving, the more chewy the more out of the taste.

Jia Pingwo: Northwest on the tip of the tongue - Shaanxi cuisine

The material is simple, if the flour is ten pounds, the water is four pounds, the noodles are seven dollars, the yeast noodles can be seven or two in summer, half a pound in winter, and one pound in spring and autumn. The preparation method is also simple, but it must be cool, according to the season to grasp the water temperature, first and into a dead face block, put under the case with a wooden bar pressure, hard pressure, folding side pressure, press evenly plate upside down, and then cut into two pieces, respectively, add yeast noodles and alkali water and then press, and then press hard, until the people sweat, the skin is light and moist, and cover the tight plate with a wet cloth. From the beginning, the dough is divided into one pound of dough per piece, pushed into a round cake with a diameter of seven inches and a thickness of about eight minutes, and is hammered, turned three times and turned twice, and the skin is slightly drummed. In the pot helmet shop, the seller said that the steamed bun did not need to be folded by hand, but cut with a knife, the knife was a long-leaf saber, and the cutting was a beveled cut, showing everyone's demeanor. In the past, those who sold pot helmets have not been robbed by others, knives have made all evil people afraid, and pot helmets can also be used as shields at any time.

According to township legend, the pot helmet was created by ancient soldiers. Pole yes.

Spicy garlic sheep blood

Pull the sheep down, the white knife in, the red knife out, and the hot blood into the basin. Use a horsetail basket to filter out impurities, pour in the same amount of salt water, stir it with a thin stick, evenly, condense into pieces and then cut into smaller pieces, boil in a pot of boiling water, small fire blood solid as tender tofu, fished out, brownish red, slightly salty tongue licking.  At this point, it is made of sheep's blood and can be soaked in a basin of water for later use.

In the early morning, or in the evening, food stalls are installed in the alley streets, and the decoration is very simple, a wooden shelf, and on the shelf are all kinds of bowls, which are placed in salt, sauce, vinegar, garlic water, oil and spicy seeds, sesame oil. Next to the wooden frame is a stove with a pot on the stove, the water is boiled without tumbling, and the pot is boiled with sheep's blood cut into small cubes. Sheep's blood is fished in a bowl, and there is not much soup, add all kinds of spices to the mouth: sheep's blood tender soup tastes spicy, choking, salty, pepper, cumin flavor is swirling.

Jia Pingwo: Northwest on the tip of the tongue - Shaanxi cuisine

There is a person in Xianyang who can say nothing but money; he can also say that there is nothing to say, just illness. Illness is not a serious disease, and the body is weak and often catches colds. Chinese medicine tells: drink half a bowl of ginseng soup every day, and after drinking for half a month, you will eradicate the cold. The man patted his wallet and smiled. The seller of spicy garlic and sheep blood said: Buy lamb bones to smash the soup and drink a bowl every morning; then eat a bowl of sheep blood every night. So sooner or later, he died of illness after a month.

Lamb

In 1900, the Gengzi Incident, Empress Dowager Cixi fled in fear, took refuge in Xi'an, and one day took the imperial palace through the zikou ramp of the bridge in the city, smelled the incense and stopped, asking: Where is the delicious food? A: Cook lamb in the shop. He was salivating, sent people to buy, tasted the great joy, and then the bounty signboard: "Stop the slope". The lamb that stops the slope is the lamb. Originally it was the food of the people, the empress dowager even stopped; before this, the people had already stopped and stopped, so this food was passed down for hundreds of years.

Jia Pingwo: Northwest on the tip of the tongue - Shaanxi cuisine

Make this meat a marinade: large porcelain jar poured into the well water, mutton, fresh lamb with bones, the skin surface is relatively folded and put, sprinkled with fine salt, glauber's salt, summer marinated for one to two days, spring and autumn marinated for three to four days, winter marinated for four to five days, marinated until the meat is red inside and outside. Two boiling: pour how much old brine soup, pour how much water, supplemented by peppercorns, star anise, cinnamon, cumin as the ingredient, high heat boiling, lamb under the pot, old and tender respectively, skin face up, and then boil open salt, then cover, wu fire simmer for four or five hours until the meat is rotten. Three fishing: skim the oil slick, press the fire to extinguish, simmer for half an hour until the soup temperature drops, use a long bamboo stick to pick the meat, put it into a porcelain plate. Four decants: Place the skin on a flat plate, pour the original soup several times, and then carefully dry it with a clean cloth.  Because it was the legacy of Cixi in that year, this meat gradually entered the upper class feast, and it became hotter and hotter, and it already had the virtue of climbing high branches. In recent years, some people have used this as a backdoor greeting gift, resulting in a bad reputation.

The recorder's statement: Some people have criticized the lamb and suggested that it be expelled from the list of snacks. But nian qibi street lanes are sold; moreover, to send the lamb to the back door, the sin should be in the meat deliverer and not in the lamb itself, so do not follow.

Stone cake

In the 1970s, a peasant in Guanzhong was wronged and could not be extended to the locality, so he took a bag of this cake and walked to Beijing to file a complaint. It was a summer day, and the dry food of the pedestrians was broken, and it was strange to see that its bread was not dirty or rotten. When they arrived in Beijing, they sat on the street and ate it, and the citizens did not know anything, so the peasants sold cakes and hired people to write a complaint, and finally the unjust case was revealed. The peasants were grateful and sent a cake to remember those who had been wronged. Q: What kind of cake? Say: Stone cake. Its cakes survived for one year, and they were intact, so the capital was in an uproar. 

Jia Pingwo: Northwest on the tip of the tongue - Shaanxi cuisine

This cake is made: fine white noodles, rubbing seasoning, oil, salt, and the cake embryo is thick and thin. The washed pebbles are heated in a pot, the cake embryos are placed on the stone, covered with a layer of stones, and baked. Its color is like a cloud, and the oil is crisp and salty.

Tongzhou people are especially good at this way, every family has a special stone, used for many years, stone oil black and bright. It is said that a family has more than 20 years of oil and stones, and in the 1960s, it suffered a disaster, no noodles to make cakes, no oil to stir-fry vegetables, every time the radish was boiled, the stones were boiled first in water and there were oil flowers, so as to cook for two years.

Koshiki cake

Koshiki cake, a cake made with koshiki, also. The bowl is brown, the cake has dates and brown, the bowl is small and coarse porcelain, the glaze boat is brown, the food, the color is eye-catching, harmonious and safe.

Jia Pingwo: Northwest on the tip of the tongue - Shaanxi cuisine

Make koshiki cake in four levels: a bubble of rice, rice is glutinous rice, water is water, soak a boil, rice heart soaked, wash several times, to foam, drain the water. The second is filled with dates, then rice, one layer is laid one layer, one layer is more than the other, and finally the top is finished with dates. Three fires, high heat boiled half a day, slow cooking. Four add water, one is to add warm water to the jujube rice in the pot, so that the jujube rice blends, and the other is to add cold water to the large pot from the venting port, so that the hot gas generated in the pot is flushed into the pot.  

Eating koshiki cake is addictive. There is a writer who runs at seven o'clock at dawn, eats three bowls at a cake stall at eight o'clock, returns to close the door to write until four o'clock in the afternoon, stops, has been consistent for several years, writes books for ten years, and has strong black eyes and is not short-sighted.

Money money meat

Many people know about this meat, but few people taste it, and it is said that even in the abundant Nishifu Province, the lord of a county only has the power to control one genuine product every year. Ordinary people can only enjoy the next taste of this meat.

The next product, donkey legs. The donkey who has lost its service, kills it, takes its four legs, hangs it to cool, dries it with blood, cuts it into pieces, layers it into urns, adds soil salt and salt to each layer, and finally presses it with boulders. Take it out on the tenth day, hang it in the sun, wait for it to dry, and then repeatedly press it with stones to drain the water, and cook it with pine wood water and spiced spices. Remove, mix with donkey oil and the original juice of boiled meat, warm it, soak the meat in the oil soup, and then let the meat pieces dry until they are frost-like. 

Jia Pingwo: Northwest on the tip of the tongue - Shaanxi cuisine

People say: Eat grains and think of six tastes. After the donkey's legs drank, it was slightly sweaty in the nose and a fresh in the mouth, so I guessed the authentic taste of money and meat, and I didn't know what kind of immortal six flavors! Money and meat are said to be more delicious and make up for the weakness of the aphrodisiac, but it is not something that ordinary people can eat, because of its high price and status to buy.

What is the concoction of money and meat genuine? Called donkey genitals also.

Large knife face

The most famous in Tongchuan.

Knife: two feet two inches long, three inches wide on the front end of the back, four inches wide on the back end, and the old scale weighs nineteen pounds. 

Cut: The knife is held in the right hand, the left hand presses the face, while lifting and falling, the case follows the sound of the knife, and the knife moves at will.

Noodles: rolled into floc, pressed into wooden bars, into hard blocks, coiled back, rolled out a millimeter thick and thin, and then folded into a semicircle.

Jia Pingwo: Northwest on the tip of the tongue - Shaanxi cuisine

The artist is bold, wields the knife freely, the noodles are as thin as silk, the water boils under the pot, two rolls are cooked, poured on the dry [fire] meat cheeks, one bite is not swallowed, the second bite is chewed urgently, a bowl of belly, and can not wait for two bowls, three bowls to eat, full of hot sweat, nose and ears are smooth, still want to eat again, belly is unbearable, one step wandering, pity to leave.

Tongchuan produces coal, goes down the mine like a boat to the sea, and the folk custom has to eat long noodles before going down the well to symbolize the soul. Therefore, so far, the mining area has concentrated in large knife noodle restaurants. Legend from outsiders: The multi-surname Guan who sells large knife noodles is the descendant of Guan Gong, or the surname Bao, who is a descendant of Bao Gong. That's a big fallacy. The seller of the Tongchuan Dongguan family, whose husband's surname is Hua and whose woman's surname is Chen, are the surnames of the people who were killed by Guan Gongbao in that year. Ask about craftsmanship, ancestral. Ask again: Ancestral origins? Then the horse farm is a grass man.

Soaked oil cake

One pound of clear flower water, five pounds of cooked hunting oil, two pounds of fine noodles, and boiling oil in water is stirred evenly like milky soup fire noodles into balls. Cold boiling water, mix the dough and knead it to make the sol gelate, wrap the filling into a frying pan. Fried, the color is milky white, the skin is puffed, shaped like a pile of foam, just like the wings of a cicada pinched.

Eat soaking oil cake, do not be anxious. Those who are anxious, bite and swallow, easy to burn the front heart. The sugar filling overflowed down the arm to the elbow, and the elbow licked it with the tongue, and the sugar filling of the oil cake in the hand dripped down again, burning the heart.

Rice collection

The pumpkin is brown to brown, with a layer of white ash, plucked, washed and cut into small pieces, and dried in the sun for half a day. Mung beans are harvested that year, full and polished as painted, rubbed three or four times, soaked in warm water, set fire to the pot, mung beans under, pumpkin on top, water and pumpkin level. Cover the pot with a steamed cloth, reduce the heat for half a day, remove the lid and use a spatula to stir the mung bean pumpkin into a porridge, that is, it is ready.

Jia Pingwo: Northwest on the tip of the tongue - Shaanxi cuisine

This food is simple and focuses on the selection of ingredients. Although it seems to be of no kind, the food is sweet and fragrant.

Rice is popular in the Qinling Mountains, but it is not easy to eat on weekdays. To eat, you must come to the door. Winter food can warm the stomach, and summer food can dispel the heat. There is a traditional Chinese medicine appraisal: long time to eat this food, the body does not produce boils, enough to not be athlete's foot.

Lumps

圪坨, Northern Shaanxi language, Guanzhong called hemp food, monkey ears. Using soba noodles as the ingredient, pinch the finger egg dough on the clean straw hat to eat it, cut thick pieces and rub it by hand for lazy eating. The lump is boiled, half a bowl is dried, and the mutton soup is poured, which is a muttony lump.

Jia Pingwo: Northwest on the tip of the tongue - Shaanxi cuisine

Eating lumps is inseparable from mutton soup, and the folk song has the sentence "soba noodles and mutton soup, dead and alive follow".

It is a kind of rich rice, and any good thing in the mutton soup can be put in, such as yellow flowers, fungus, tofu, chestnuts.

This thing has a disposition: the hotter and more fragrant it is. But eating too much hurts the stomach, remember.

Source: Study Room Record Public Account, excerpted from "Northwest on the Tip of the Tongue", by Jia Ping

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