About 1,700 years ago, there were two eldest brothers who regularly hissed the big PK, the most famous one recorded in the "World Speaking New Language, Ji Luxury 30":
This time, Shi Chong, who won with his head held high, not only humiliated his opponent with a magnificent Versailles physique, but also "snorted" at Emperor Wang Kaina's nephew in the air. Under such a complete victory, the comfortable Old Master Shi wanted to eat something good to celebrate. This is good, most likely a few white dough skins filled with meat floating in a bowl of clear fresh soup. This bowl of stuff, we call it ravioli.
Zhang Dai said in "Night Sailing Ship": "". Since Shi Chong's right to invent wontons can be obtained, it must be his most proud bite. Every time I think about it for breakfast, I smile at the bowl of ravioli in front of me: it's not too hard to sit on an equal footing with a big man. This psychological construction, with AQ's "We were before— much wider than you!" "As advanced.
Wontons are the big winners on the breakfast table of the Chinese people, not to mention the north and south. Here, there are both southern wontons that take the "Avenue to Jane" route and only clear soup with a few leaves of coriander, and there are also northern wontons that follow the belief of "unity of taste", a bowl of incomparably complex northern wontons. It seems to be the opposite of the opposite, but in fact, it is the same destination, and everyone finally asks for a fresh word. Because in most cases, it is difficult to stand out by relying on the hard power of Ravioli.
When I was a child, I often had the opportunity to enter the back kitchen of Qingfeng Bun Shop and see my aunts making wontons. The aunts chatted wildly on their lips, not looking at their hands, and their hands touched a skin with one hand, and the other hand touched the smear, and the dragonfly in the filling basin touched the water, and then flashed on the skin, and the hand grabbed a loose one, and a wonton was concocted, and a ravioli was thrown into the basket, and the skin on the hand was already on the hand, and the cycle began to be as fast as a panic. And my little heart has been shouting: Auntie! aunt! It's good to put more stuffing!
Shout to shout, the ravioli is served, and the filling is never big. This bowl of wontons guard the northern portal, the content must be a lot, at least coriander, seaweed, shrimp skin, winter vegetables are standard, green, black, yellow arch with white wontons, and then a few red peppers are also good-looking. Whether the soup is bone broth or not can not remember, according to logic think it should just be boiled with pot of wonton water. But it doesn't matter, the few generals who have these five elements of the formation are also enough to make up a mouthful of fresh.
The ravioli is only white in principle, in fact it is like a happy jellyfish, with a white and red head and a large translucent skirt dangling around. In this soup bowl, it is also not the shelf of the protagonist, and it has no heart and lungs to follow several big dragon sets. A tablespoon down, will never be cool to only come up with a ravioli, must be implicated to keep up with some other guys. This nest is connected to the soup, and a brain enters the mouth: the dough skin provides a smoothness; the dragon sets have their own umami taste; the stuffing is responsible for stirring and stirring the fresh with its own bit of meat flavor. It doesn't matter who is the master and who is inferior, everyone has no kings and no subjects, and they are confused and happy. Therefore, when I grew up, I also understood that this road wonton stuffing really can't be big, and when it is big, there will be a lord and a subordinate monarch, and there will be no "rare confusion".
This kind of confusion may be very suitable for the original intention of the ravioli. The "Yuanjian Class Letter" records:
The original intention of feeding and transporting (sound luck) seems to be derived from the imagination of an endless stream of end-to-end connections, and if it is said that it is destined because of the shape of the wonton, it should be associated with the kind of yuanbao wonton that is good at wrapping in the south. However, the shape of the ring is often compared to the chaotic unopened Taiji in Chinese metaphysics, and since ancient times there have been people who say that the shape of the wonton is like it and borrows its name. In the Book of Qualifications, it says: . In short, the confused and sloppy wonton is right.
Although the filling does not have to be large, the taste of the soup is still a bit to say. For example, the bowl of wontons with seaweed, shrimp skin, and winter vegetables above, people in Suzhou and Wuxi are bound to snort "cults." Just like when Jin Shaoshan returned to Beijing to perform "Fighting the Dragon Robe", a line of heads revealed the golden river water Hague, and the result was that the big men of the Beijing Dynasty faction in the audience sneered at "Outer River".
Like the noodles of Jiangnan, in this core area of Jiangnan, small wontons walk the rivers and lakes by soup. A dozen large skin and small stuffed ravioli, to be poured into a bowl of mellow and bright soup, the soup noodles floated with a few leaves of coriander, this is a bowl of authentic Jiangnan wontons. Its freshness comes from the soup, sweet and fresh like the autumn moon of Pinghu Lake, a little bit of noodle wrapped meat filling such as Taihu Lake boat, flooded in the soup, a moment and fresh fun, plus a few traces of coriander tender flavor, a school of idle Five Lakes guests. "Song Barnyard Banknotes and Diets":
Of course, there is an exaggeration in the fact that the wonton soup is so clear that it can be injected with yan yan ink, but this school of clear soup wontons has its own origins, at least out of the medieval era Jiangnan Shi Dafu tasted the aesthetic. When I first arrived in Yixing more than ten years ago, my wife took me to the old street of Hudian Town. The old street is narrow and deep, and the silence of time is frozen. Walking to an old house, "Ah" a sound to push the door into the hospital, the courtyard three or two aunts are wrapping small wontons, this is the local famous hidden in the depths of the wonton shop. Sit and wait for a while, get two bowls of clear soup ravioli, the soup color is slightly yellowish and clear, a few leaves of green coriander, sixteen small wontons fell into it. Although the soup is not perfect, it is also clear in this era of soup powder. Less tilted, some people from outside the door into, buy a large number of wontons and soup, the price of more than eight hundred yuan, Yun from Shanghai to drive specifically for this, bought immediately drove back to Shanghai to distribute to each family. The shock was indescribable.
The shop later moved to the bustling center of the town, which is magnificent and modern, and every morning there is a grand queue. Yu came back to it, has tasted the taste of soup powder, so it is gradually no longer there, and now it seems that the reputation has also fallen. In the era when real capital is shrouded, birds will eventually have a color. Yu Yi was not angry, and moved to replace the idea. Experiment at home, hang a pot of broth for ten hours, and beat the stuffing with broth to wrap small wontons. The production is enough to be amazing, but a nuclear cost, a bowl of profits need more than thirty yuan, the flag is no longer mentioned.
The embarrassment of the wonton soup, the north and south are now connected. Read Mr. Liang Shiqiu Zhu's text, know the old Beijing wonton merchants. A pair of burdens before picking the stove fire after picking the family, to the ground stall, the pot is always boiling bone soup, the other stove eye boiled wontons, boiled soup and then add shrimp skin and other things. This scene is no longer seen, but more than a decade ago, I could still eat chicken soup wontons in Beijing, and now I don't think about it. Fortunately, the northerners are also lazy to use soup powder, and the white noodle soup is mixed with the flavor ingredients into the ingredients, making a bowl of wontons that are not flickering, which is also refreshing. However, Tianjin people can keep the last rule portal, and still see the real Jinmen "Wonton" (wonton). Bone hanging soup, complete ingredients, and egg skin shreds floating on the soup, leaving a legend for the wontons.
The little wontons keep the meaning of "chaos" with a little bit of meat filling, while the big wontons have no such philosophical burden at all. It is like a big man who breaks the door, who is big-ended, and does not hesitate to declare: I am addicted, I am full.
Large ravioli are passed in the south and rare in the north. In Jiangnan, the big wontons can be soup, mixed, vegetables, meat, rice, dim sum, and their status is not inferior to that of the dumplings in the north. The skin is large and thick, allowing it to fit a filling comparable to that of dumplings and withstands cooking for a long time. It's rich in filling, as you want. Northerners can wrap dumplings in anything, while Jiangnan people can mix meat fillings into large wonton skins. Ni Zhan's "Collection of Dietary Systems in Yunlintang" records the "Method of Boiling Wontons":
Ming Gaolian's "Eight Notes on Zunsheng":
Ni Yunlin Wuxi people, Gao Lian is born in Hangzhou, both of them are familiar with the taste of marrow. Since the beginning of the Yuan and Ming Dynasties, Jiangnan people have arbitrarily wrapped many things into a wonton skin, and this fun has not been broken. Now into the Jiangnan wonton shop, often for the wall stuffing name and choose difficulties. Of course, in the end, there are always thousands of varieties to avoid embarrassment and hold the position. From the perspective of Yu, the fresh meat of spring, the fresh meat of winter, and the fresh meat of when there is no ocean are enough.
Fresh meat and wontons with cabbage are not Yu's favorite, my wife's only favorite. No matter where the ravioli shop is, as long as there is such a variety, Uchiko does not do what he thinks. Gangnam has unique good water and soil, and its green leafy vegetables are sweet. The genus of wild vegetables, sweet and bitter, must be swept away with boiling water, leaving its bitterness slightly, in order to lead Gan to the stage. The combination of cabbage and minced meat is not beautiful, and the other is not envious of its richness, more like a dialogue between the family and the wild sorcerer. Wrap up large ravioli, cooked and then randomly mix a bottom of soup to match, although Yu does not make love, but also can taste some hidden state, now a few Mingren sketches.
Every late winter, about the lunar month and the solar calendar January, Jiangnan collapse vegetables into the best season. This dish is dark green compact, a circle like a green gem blossom, lustrous, very sweet. The best way to eat, one is a little winter shoot with stir-frying, and the other is to add fresh meat for ravioli filling. The rest of the taste alternates between the two, eating and near the moon. If the fresh meat of the cabbage is hidden, the fresh meat of the collapsed vegetables is a child's love drama. The fresh spirit of the collapsed vegetables is sweet like the jasper of the small family, the wind looks like Xun Pai, or the red lady, or the spring grass; the fresh meat is thick and thick, like a country brother, and the truth is sincere and slightly shy. Xiao Hua Dan was in a hurry, a small broken step, the flower eyes fluttered, the jade hand was waist- and the little brother was picked, and it was really interesting to tease out a faction of Wan'er. This pair also had to be wrapped in large ravioli to have this meaning, and Yu had used dumplings for it, and in any case it was not as good as the timely scene of large wontons.
Kaiyang is the sea rice of the north. Fresh meat Kaiyang large ravioli Wuxi characteristics, each fresh meat filling must have a bubble of sea rice. Interestingly, in Wuxi, where there is a tradition of no-food seafood, dried sea rice is processed with meat filling more solidly than fresh shrimp into meat filling. To get its saltiness and its freshness can be described as its own way. Wuxi soup wontons, such as cutting dried tofu into the inside, is also what I admire, and the fresh meat open foreign filling can be matched.
The big ravioli in Jiangnan is very good, but the Sichuan scribe can also be called wonderful. A large fresh meat ravioli, matched with a very careful milk soup, and then blanched into two pea tips, the food is very clever and clumsy, and there is an Emei fairy spirit.
Wontons are things, temples and rivers and lakes are feasible. At this thought, it is difficult to count, so it is better to put aside the pen.