Looking at the time and space line of the advanced stage of raw frying, aside from the grandfather of the big pot spring, the branding road of raw frying only started from the 90s.
In Lang Haibao's impression, before the 90s, Shanghai Beach made raw fried steamed buns, and there were very few famous people. Almost all of them are raw fried stalls, and there is a stove at the entrance of the small food shop in Longtangkou.
Maybe because raw frying was too popular and too popular, raw fried stalls bloomed everywhere in the city at that time. One of the most famous is Shantou Road Raw Fried (shu cai ji predecessor).
Around 1987, there was a temporary raw frying stall on the intersection of Shantou Road in Guangxi Middle Road, the traditional practice, not very tall, white soup, thick bottom plate, hard and crisp.
As soon as this raw fried stall opened, it had a wide impact and rode in the dust.
The hostess Cai Fangying left the stall at 5 o'clock in the morning, closed the stall at 10 o'clock, and the stall head was always in line, with a steel pot or bowl in hand, stretching her neck and waiting.
"Go to Shantou Road to eat raw fried" can be included in the Shanghai idle discourse at that time.
■ In 2014, Shu Cai remembered the crowded scene on Shantou Road
Later, Shantou Road moved several times, and in 2001, he went around and returned to Shantou Road, with a formal store, named "Shu Cai Ji".
After that, he moved and opened branches, but he has continued to this day.
Open the comment network, in the minds of many Shu Cai Ji loyal fans for many years, the Shantou Road raw frying of that year will always be the ceiling of raw fried steamed buns.
During the ups and downs of Shu Cai's memory, the story of raw frying gave birth to another branch.
In 1994, Wujiang Road opened a small Yang Sheng fry, a night of popularity, every day a long queue, the year's Internet celebrity head card punch card resort is undoubted.
■ Nowadays, Xiao Yang Sheng Frying has blossomed everywhere and appeared in major shopping malls.
Because the floor area is very small, every day on Wujiang Road, there are a bunch of people standing hula, holding piping hot raw frying, and sucking on the hot soup with red ears.
Born in 1986, Tang Xuliang is a typical Shanghai xiaoyuan, and raw fried steamed buns have not been able to get around him since he was a child.
At that time, he also held the "station ticket" of Wujiang Road countless times, and ate raw fried fried food with his mouth full of oil on the crowded road.
In 1995, the old restaurant in Old Luwan was abundant, creating the "Abundance Raw Frying" brand, and by 1996, eight stores were opened, and every family was lined up and the business was prosperous.
■ Fengyu Raw Fried is also a well-established chain store in Shanghai
Dong Tai Xiang, Fei Long Raw Frying, Ah San Sheng Frying... These well-known raw fried shops have also sprung up one by one.
On the road of branding, the raw fried steamed buns that were originally opened in the roadside stall snack street have advanced rapidly, and the attributes of "a business card of Shanghai dim sum" are getting stronger and stronger.
Of course, the best of them are still two brands of big pot spring and small Yang Sheng frying.
Both families made "Shanghai Raw Frying" into golden signboards and danced overseas.
On the homepage of the official website of Xiao Yang Sheng Fry, there is a news: "Xiao Yang Sheng Fry joined hands with a national tide brand to shine London Fashion Week". Raw fried buns on London Fashion Week, isn't it inspirational?
As for Dahu Chun, the first Michelin restaurants in Shanghai were on the list when they were announced, and they dominated the list for many years, and the four Michelin plaques at the entrance of the main store were bright and shining.
In 2017, Apple CEO Cook came to Shanghai, and he also ordered to eat a large pot of spring frying.
■ In 2017, Apple CEO Cook (right) came to Shanghai to punch in the raw frying of the big pot spring.
The more popular the brand, the hotter the atmosphere of the two fans quarreling.
In the eating and broadcasting video on Station B, as long as the raw fried bun is mentioned, it can always brush this kind of "point cannon" barrage.
"The old-fashioned raw frying of the big pot spring is delicious, and the ratio of Xiao Yang and the big pot spring is far worse."
"Xiao Yang Sheng fried super delicious, forever God."
Shanghai's local gourmand Lao Botou once joked: "Every time you feel that Weibo is not popular, you don't have to scold, just mention two sentences of Xiao Yang Sheng frying." ”
Although the reputation is mixed, Xiao Yang is the most widest and most widely distributed among the many fried brands in Shanghai, and the number is far more than other stores.
In a sense, it is indeed Xiao Yang who has promoted the image of the "City of Raw Frying" to penetrate the hearts of the people.
Not only in Shanghai there are countless small Yangsheng frying branches, in the Yangtze River Delta cities - Suzhou Wuxi Changzhou, Nanjing Yangzhou Hangzhou, you can see the sign of Xiaoyang Sheng frying everywhere, even Auckland has a cottage version of Xiao Yang.
On the review network, someone in the evaluation of Yangzhou Jinghuacheng store said: "This is a restaurant that I loved to eat during my college years, and I could only eat it in Shanghai before." ”
This inter-city linkage is activated with the Internet, and the branding of "Shanghai Raw Frying" comes naturally.
■ In a sense, the small poplar that blooms everywhere has boosted the popularity of Shanghai raw frying.
In addition, to investigate carefully, in today's Chinese catering environment, raw frying itself has the star attribute of going out of the circle.
First, it can be eaten at all times of the day. It is not like the four king kongs, there is no strong breakfast attributes, morning, middle and evening, afternoon tea, supper are suitable, for the shop owner, the business is also easy to do.
Second, the topic is strong, different genres can fight a war of words, and there may be hot skin, will burst the juice of the embarrassing funny ingredient blessing, especially suitable for taking pictures and ridicule, sending Weibo circle of friends.
Third, raw fried piping, salty, crisp, no loss to the wild tension of the skewers, which also just caters to the national pursuit of heavy taste.
Of course, the most surprising thing is that this traditional snack actually has a strong Internet attribute - twenty minutes to deliver home, the temperature is just right, the bottom layer is still crisp, the shape will not collapse, and the taste experience is comparable to eating.
■ The thick-skinned and crispy pan-fried can withstand the test of transportation and is very popular with takeaway orders.
Therefore, in the takeaway PK, raw fried steamed buns have become the darlings on the order. In contrast, the noodle ravioli is slightly tired, after all, it is soft and soft at home, and the taste is not satisfactory.
During the epidemic last year, a set of data from Ele.me is very telling. In the week of March 25-31, Shanghai generated 106,000 orders for raw frying.
－ END －
Writer: Li Xinxin / Photo: Li Xinxin /
Editor: Han Xiaoni / Writing Brush: Brother Chun /
Namo Win: Chen is not fun/
All rights reserved, please do not reprint without permission
Please leave us a message to get content authorization
Source: Thoughtful