Back to the point, "the top stream theory of the snack industry", we can be considered to be standing.
Soon the new question came again, where did the raw fried bun come from? Why are the Little Yang Sheng Fried Pie and the Big Kettle Spring Pie always quarreling in the barrage?
Regarding the origin of Shanghai raw frying, the most common occurrence in media reports is Luo Chunge, the predecessor of Daju Chun.
Shen Shuanglong, the second generation of Dahuchun, said in an interview with the News Evening News in 2010: "The earliest raw frying in Shanghai should be Luochun Pavilion, which was founded in the 1920s, and the founder is from Danyang, Jiangsu. ”
By 1932, Tang Miaoquan, the nephew of the founder of "LuoChun Pavilion", started a new stove and opened a large pot of spring.
According to this time context, many food columnists speculate that Shanghai's raw fried steamed buns should come from Danyang, Jiangsu.
But our archaeologists have found that this statement is not accurate enough.
In the 1950 Xinmin Evening News, there was such an article, "Shanghai Snack Price List in 1910", which recorded the price of Shanghai snacks 111 years ago.
■ A small article in the Xinmin Evening News on September 17, 1950 (pictured right)
In addition to the well-known large meat noodles abalone noodles eel noodles, Yangchun noodles sugar fried chestnuts, there are also records of "raw fried steamed buns per five texts".
Was the raw frying more than 100 years ago invented locally, or was it an influx of foreign imports? We don't know anymore.
But what is certain is that before the establishment of LuoChunge, raw fried steamed buns had already appeared on the streets of Shanghai and became a local folk snack.
However, the line of Luochun Pavilion can be traced back to the source.
According to reports, the founder of LuochunGe is from Danyang, Jiangsu, and has always adopted the method of "half-hair noodles" (the same method of frying the small Yangsheng with a lot of thin skin soup).
This thin-skinned, frosty-footed, juicy, open-mouth-down craft is also known as the "Yang Gang" genre.
■ Xiao Yang sheng fry adopts the "half hair noodle" method, and the raw frying opening is facing down.
The "descendant" of LuoChunGe, the big pot spring, adopts another process - the "full hair noodles" method, which is characterized by thick skin, strong feet, less soup juice, and upward opening.
After more than 80 years of trial and error, this unique craft has long won the name of the "Ben Gang" genre.
■ The large pot spring adopts the "full hair noodle" method, and the raw frying opening is facing upwards.
At present, the raw frying in Shanghai is actually the mainstream of the "Yang Gang" genre, but the "Ben Gang" genre has not disappeared.
In addition to Dahu Chun, we also found a shop called Lao Tong Chun in The Yu Garden Mall, which also adopted the method of this gang.
The old Tong Chun is facing the Jiuqu Bridge, the chef who specializes in raw frying in the shop is called Dong Dedi, seven or eight years ago, he followed the older generation of raw frying master Li Yifeng and learned how to make raw frying for more than a year.
"What I learned was the traditional full-hair noodle process, flour yeast lard sugar, add water and knead together, after the noodles are good, you have to wake up, make the raw fried skin is a little thicker than Xiao Yang sheng frying, mouth up."
After the raw frying is wrapped, fry in a frying pan over high heat, add (raw frying) one-third high water, turn the iron pan to mix the oil and water evenly.
■ The raw frying of The old Tong Tsubaki follows the practice of the Hon gang and adopts the "full hair noodle" process.
After ten minutes, sprinkle black sesame seeds, reduce heat and fry for another ten minutes, steam from the water to steam it, and sprinkle green onions when it comes out of the pan.
Before the bun is put into the oil pan, the bottom will be dipped in egg whites and white sesame seeds. As soon as the sesame seeds in the oil pot began to stir,, the whole process crackled and the oil aroma splashed around.
－ END －
Writer: Li Xinxin / Photo: Li Xinxin /
Editor: Han Xiaoni / Writing Brush: Brother Chun /
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Source: Thoughtful