Before this year's watch exhibition, the new product with the highest expectation among players is the return of the Rolex GMT red and black two-color circle (COKE circle). The reason for this expectation is not that there is a vacancy, but a speculation based on a previously exposed patent document on the manufacture of multi-colored ceramics. But judging by the results, Rolex seems to have put off a smoke bomb, which has disappointed many people's expectations. Although Rolex did not introduce the COKE ring, this colorway appeared in a new TUDOR watch and appeared in another form.
The Tudor Black Bay Model 1958 GMT
As a sibling brand of Rolex, TUDOR has always played the role of "daring to be the first" – many new processes and technologies, including carbon composite materials, have been pioneered by Tudor. Following the 2018 red and blue "Pepsi Circle" Tudor Black Bay Greenwich Model, this year's new model introduces the rumored "COKE Circle" with gold indexes and hour markers, this combination of "retro + luxury" is eye-catching.
Black Bay GMT 1958 and Black Bay GMT-Master (White)
Judging by the name, the new "COKE Circle" is part of the Black Bay 1958 model, rather than the previous "Pepsi Circle" Black Bay model (without suffix). The difference between the two is that the 1958 model uses a refined 39 mm case diameter, paying homage to the Ref. 7924, the brand's first diver's watch released in 1958 that was water-resistant to 200 metres (660 feet).
The first Black Bay Reference 1958 was unveiled at Baselworld 2018 and has been continuously refined in terms of materials and functions ever since. The new Black Bay 1958 Greenwich model, which is unveiled this time, provides players with another option in addition to the basic function model on the premise of maintaining the same water resistance of 200 meters.
The movement is also the highlight of this new product. It is powered by the MT5450-U-shaped automatic calibre of the original TUDOR calibre certified by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), which is the first work to receive this certification, following the new version of the Black Bay ceramic and the new version of the "Little Red Shield".
The METAS certification is based on the Swiss Official Chronometer Observatory (COSC) certification, which is more demanding than the COSC standard. The METAS certification allows for a daily error of 0 to +5 seconds, which is higher than the -4/+6 standard of the COSC certification, and also requires the watch to be exposed to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss to maintain accuracy.
Although the solid caseback does not give a glimpse of the movement, we can still get a preliminary understanding of it by referring to other movements in the same series and the parameters disclosed by the brand: the MT5450-U automatic calibre is a GMT module model for the MT5400 calibre, and the "U" after the name indicates that it is the version sent for METAS certification. The calibre is technically characterized by a diameter of 30.3 mm, a balance wheel with non-jamming screws, a non-magnetic silicon balance spring, a frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz), and a power reserve of 65 hours.
The iconic "snowflake needle" of TUDOR Sport is used, and the front of the GMT hand is also presented in the form of a diamond-shaped "snowflake". This sharply shaped, large-area hand is conducive to better coverage of luminescent materials. Gold-toned hands and hour markers, echoing the scale on the bezel, add to the luxury of the piece.
Rolex Ref .16710 (COKE circle)
The domed matte black dial and domed sapphire crystal are the embodiment of the vintage style of this piece. This is also reflected in the bezel font, which was heavily influenced by Rolex's early Greenwich Shape.
The three-link "riveted" strap is brushed and fitted with a TUDOR "T-fit" quick-change clasp. In addition to the steel strip model, there is also a plastic watch version.
In terms of material, this model uses a 316L stainless steel case. As with all previous creations of the Black Bay 1958, the bezel is still made of anodized aluminium. Although the reliability of the material has stood the test of time, it still looks a little "vintage" when the ceramic bezel is gradually becoming mainstream. However, from another point of view, the characteristics of impact resistance and non-chipping are also not available in ceramics, and the anodized aluminum bezel has a wider choice of colors. What Rolex didn't achieve, Tudor did again. (Photo/text Watch Home Xiao Feng)