Jiang Zhan
Fuchun River
Jiande Xin'an River has a green road, starting from the Xin'an River Dam, along the river to Xiaya, Daitou, Meicheng, and finally Qiantan, all the way to green mountains and water.
The greenway is divided into four sections, and the urban section is named "Purple Potato Greenway", that is, the slow-moving system of Xin'anjiang Large Urban Area, with a total length of 3.5 kilometers.
The purple potato greenway unveiled at the end of last year in Hangzhou released a map
The second section of the "Huangrao Peninsula Greenway" covers a total distance of 20.18 kilometers.
The third section of the "Jiande/Sanjiang Greenway" is about 18 kilometers.
The fourth section of the "Sandu Greenway" covers a total distance of 9.8 kilometers.
The most poetic is the third paragraph, from Meicheng Yandongguan in the west to Qiantan Town in the east. The first time I came into contact with this most beautiful greenway, it was because of a coincidence.
On that day, I was going to go to a newly opened hotel, drive from the downtown area of Hangzhou, and drive along the Hangzhou Xinjing Expressway, about an hour and a half drive, to Qiantan Town, Jiande City. When I arrived at the Qiantan Xuxi Wharf, I found that it was late, and the ritual of "taking a boat into the hotel" could not be realized. The hotel staff prepared a battery car for me, parked the car, walked a short distance, crossed the bridge and crossed the greenway directly.
I couldn't lie down on the fuchun river, but I also had the pleasure of "don't listen to the sound of leaves beating through the forest, why not groan and walk".
The next morning, I walked back along the greenway back to the pier, with green hills on one side and green water on the other. Hearing the sound of babbling water, I instinctively approached the nest for a mouthful of clear water.
Because of the "Fuchun Mountain Residence Map", the Fuchun River has always been endowed with immortal qi outside the transcendence. Peaks and slopes, clouds and trees, dense and elegant, the scenery moves with people, people move with the scenery, and the Fuchun River scenery has an unadorned natural luxury, which has always been a hermitage in the hearts of Chinese literati.
The name of the hotel I stayed in was "Fangwai", with a poetic meaning. The word Fangwai comes from the Zhou Yi Zhi Ci, "Gentlemen respect straight inside, righteousness with Fang Wai", also refers specifically to "fairyland" or "monastic living environment".
Since it is so immortal, when you enter again, you must take a boat to enter. Unexpectedly, a speedboat took about 15 minutes to reach the west bank of the tributary Xu Creek.
Ride the wind in a speedboat
Nowadays, hotels are more and more cultural, and it is not idle to use hotels as a holiday destination. For example, this is the first time I've heard of a "group" layout unit.
A "group" has several separate suites inside. The outer and inner cohesive, the hidden wind and water. Buildings stand in clusters, and people return to the traditional Chinese group life. Each group has a name: Jimao, Yumu, Huaqing, Bamboo Fang, And Qiu, Zhilu, corresponding to Metasequoia, Elm Money, Maple, Bamboo, Pine and Reed, all of which are abundant vegetation within sight. Poetry is not enough.
I also heard for the first time about the profession of "etiquette", compared to the "concierge" that many hotels today have to set up, the etiquette has to do in addition to arranging travel, dining and coping with the needs of life, but also responsible for popularizing the culture of guests.
For example, why is the room I live in called Huaqing? Because the flower green is the maple tree at the door.
Lis explained that because maple leaves contain a special substance, anthocyanins, it is the opposite of chlorophyll. As the weather cooled, the number gradually increased, making the maple leaves turn red.
Long knowledge.
People are willing to spend a lot of money to sleep in the hotel, in addition to very expensive mattresses, ecological food, can send a circle of friends, it is best to let them feel that this trip, opened a new horizon, pry opened up a new field.
Good environment, good sleep, long knowledge, the rest is to eat. When you arrive at Jiande, you have to eat Jiande cuisine. I have a friend who is obsessed with food and calls Jiande cuisine "the Hunan cuisine of Zhejiang".
Compared with Sichuan cuisine, which uses dried peppers and red oil, Hunan cuisine uses tempeh, fresh green and red peppers, millet spicy, and also likes to use soybean sauce, and the temperament and taste of Jiande cuisine are very close to Hunan cuisine.
Nine surnames fish head emperor, Yanzhou tofu bun, Yanzhou salty tangyuan, Yanzhou dried vegetable duck these hotels must eat are Yanzhou famous dishes.
"Yanzhou" is an old name, and the land merger of the original Yanzhou County has become Tonglu County, Chun'an County and Jiande City under hangzhou today. The seat of the ancient Yan Prefecture is called Meicheng, and Meicheng Town is a thousand-year-old town under the jurisdiction of Jiande City, Hangzhou City, Zhejiang Province.
Although the administrative unit of Yanzhoufu has long been used, Jiande people are still proud of Yanzhou cuisine.
The ancient Yan prefecture has a deep cultural heritage, and there are stories behind the cuisine. The famous dish "Nine Surname Fish Head Emperor" is a special dish based on the folk customs of the local nine surname fishermen "going well with the wind and returning with a full load".
The "nine surnames" refer to the nine surnames of Chen, Qian, Lin, Yuan, Sun, Ye, Xu, Li, and He, whose ancestors were subordinates of Chen Youyi in the late Yuan and early Ming dynasties, who were relegated to the waters of Yanzhou capital after failing to compete with Zhu Yuanzhang for world domination, and were never allowed to go ashore.
Meicheng is located at the confluence of the Xin'an River, Lanjiang River and Fuchun River, and is rich in fish, which can be used for cooking all year round. In addition, the high-quality water resources of the Fuchun River, which can be obtained everywhere at 17 °, fishbone hanging soup, and the use of fish tail meat, handmade into fish fillets, the role of fish to play the role of the fish to the fullest.
The hotel has also developed its own specialty - a large fish head made of pumpkin and other grains crushed in hanging soup, making it a fresh and spicy sour taste. If you think the taste is too heavy, you can also choose the fish head of Wulong Mountain Spring Water.
Wulong Mountain is a place name located in the east of Jiande, north of the ancient town of Meicheng. The main body of Wulong Mountain is fan-shaped, and the upper peak is 909 meters above sea level, which is the most famous mountain in the ancient Yanzhou capital. In "Water Margin", Song Jiang's attack on Fang La took place on Wulong Mountain.
There is a local saying that "Meicheng people will cry when they don't see Wulong Mountain one day", which expresses a sense of nostalgia. There was a Yuquan Temple on the mountain, and as soon as I heard that I had re-established virtue on Putuo Mountain, I was asked to go and see the place where he had lived at that time, and his impression was very good.
A view of the Fuchun River
Yuquan Temple was built in the 10th year of The Tang Dynasty and founded by Master Shaokang of the Five Ancestors of the Pure Land Sect, and has a history of more than 1,200 years, was destroyed by the Japanese army in 1942, and rebuilt in 1990. Leaning on Wulong Mountain, facing meicheng ancient town, the peaks are ringing, the ancient trees are towering in the sky, the mountain springs are muddy, and the three rivers are gushing.
This kind of Buddhist temple wonderland is not the same as Putuo Mountain. I always think of the kind of scene that Chen Chuncheng depicted in "Zhufeng Temple". I imagined that at the border between dusk and night, there was an extremely narrow gap from which the wind of another world blew. After sitting for a few dusks, I seemed to understand a little. There is a force of depression, a vast depression, that comes at dusk. In that moment, the meaning of things is drifting. In the sky that darkened little by little, nothing seemed inconsequential. You panic a little, then you're relieved, and then you don't exist.
Back to the food.
Yanzhou tofu bun is also very famous, the tofu inside is not a tofu block, but a mixture of squeezed vegetables, meat foam together, "sucking" is the right way to eat tofu buns. Because the traditional tofu bun is spicy, there is a debate about whether to improve after coming to the hotel. Some people say that "since it is a local food, you should eat the original". Some people also feel that the guests in the hotel come from all directions and taste a little moderate.
Slightly spicy also Yanzhou shortbread, crab shell yellow shell, the most praise is the fat meat mixed with the best dry vegetables to make the filling, bite down, crisp. And tangyuan, the locals love to eat fresh meat stuffing, commonly known as "salty tangyuan".
Salty rice balls
According to legend, there was a poor scholar in Longshan Academy in Yanzhou who married a beautiful and intelligent daughter-in-law, and everyone praised him for his blessing. On the day of the Lantern Festival, the scholar reluctantly agreed to the request of his classmates to come to his house to eat tangyuan. The scholar's family was poor and had no money to buy sugar, so the clever daughter-in-law used winter pickles and diced tofu to make stuffing and made a different kind of salty tangyuan to entertain guests. Everyone tasted it and felt that this tangyuan was thin and smooth, salty and fresh, and Yanzhou salty tangyuan has been passed down to this day.
On a Lantern Festival many years ago, when there was no public comment, I suddenly wanted to eat salty tangyuan, so I took a bus to those possible small alleys to find food, and found it in a Small Restaurant in Jiande. Come to think of it, this kind of spirit is rare now.
If you have the physical strength to practice the third section of the greenway (18 kilometers), you will have the opportunity to experience the original taste of Yanzhou cuisine. The usual practice is to drive, and the romantic is to take a boat. Take a boat from Qili Yangfan Pier or discuss a charter boat with the hotel and head down the Fuchun River. When it was almost time to arrive, the ancient city wall made of green bricks in Meicheng Town was battlemented in the shape of half a plum blossom, and the yellow flag of "Yanzhou Capital" was displayed in the wind.
Yanzhou Ancient City
Ancient city wall of Yanzhou
Meicheng is a thousand-year-old town, with a history of more than 1,700 years, and has been the seat of Yanzhou Prefecture and Jiande County for generations, and was only determined as the official place name of Jiande County in 1938. Classical literature such as "Water Margin", "Ru Lin WaiShi", "Official Appearance", "Golden Plum Bottle" and other classical literature have described the humanistic landscape of Meicheng.
"Plum" refers to plum blossoms, and "Meicheng" is named after the plum blossom shape of a section of the ancient Yanzhou capital city wall along the river. Generally speaking, only the walls of the capital can be built in the shape of plum blossoms, reflecting identity and status.
"There are two and a half plum blossoms in the world", one in Beijing, one in Nanjing, and half of them are Yanzhou. But this half is enough to make the people of Meicheng proud, which means that they can sit on an equal footing with the north and south of the second capital.
There must be ancient streets in the ancient town, bluestone paving, white walls and black tile Huipai buildings, those Super Sense of Age Xinhua Bookstore and Cinema are still preserved, and there are shops on both sides.
In August 2018, the conservation of the ancient city began. With the help of the remains of the stone components of the archway and the existing monuments, the thousand-year-old city of Yanzhoufu reappeared in Meicheng - the Jiandehou Arch stands in the middle of the main street, and the stone carvings are exquisite, commemorating the merits of Jiandehou guarding Yanzhou City at that time.
During the Northern Song Dynasty, Fan Zhongyan was demoted to Mu Prefecture (Yan Prefecture) for one year, with outstanding political achievements. He built Longshan Academy, the first school in Jiande, dredged the East and West Lakes of Meicheng, presided over the construction of the Ancestral Hall of Yan Ziling, and personally wrote the "Records of Mr. Yan's Ancestral Hall" to praise the high wind and bright festival of Yan Ziling with the famous sayings of "Yun Shan Cang Cang, The River Water Is Yang Yang, Mr. Wind, Mountain High and Long Water".
However, locals say that the archways handed down in ancient times are short, and they are as majestic as they are now presented to people. "In the past, the commercial street was directly opposite the water transport terminal, and I grew up listening to the sound of the whistle", the locals all sighed about it.
In the 2019 "Meicheng Beautiful Town Construction", Meicheng made new additions and repairs on the basis of the original "ornamental ancient town".
The Yanzhou Daqing Post Office, located on Sanxing Street, has now been renovated and rebuilt into the Yanzhou Postal Station Cultural Exhibition Hall, which can understand the cultural overview of the Yanzhou Epistle Era
Cinema in meicheng ancient town
No. 22 Zheng Avenue is a typical Republic of China building, once a Jinyuanchang cigarette factory, mainly producing native cigarettes. After the victory of the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression in 1945, it developed from handmade cigarettes to machine-made cigarettes, mainly producing "Double Golden Bell" and "Golden Cat" brand cigarettes. However, even if it is not possible, the tobacco museum in the inn is still a punching point, and the local government collects the account books, material registration books and records of the life of Jin Zhonghan, and interviews the employees who worked in the cigarette factory that year, showing the life of the owner Jin Zhonghan, Jin Yuanchang Cigarette Factory, Hangzhou Cigarette Factory and related history and tobacco culture.
Stand on the city wall overlooking the ancient town of Meicheng
Walking to the end of the ancient street is the city wall, Yanzhou Jinshi Museum is located under the ancient city wall of Meicheng, with the theme of "wall tile preaching", showing the historical development, cultural inheritance and humanistic spirit of Meicheng. Climbing the ancient city wall, the Xin'an River and the water are spread out in front of the eyes, the smoke cage fog cover, and the light boat sails by, which is itself a natural style painting.
Editor-in-Charge: Ying Xu
Proofreader: Liu Wei