Old Gluttony Wang Zengqi

Last year marked the centenary of Mr. Wang Zengqi's birth. Elder Wang's most famous text should be to talk about food. "Food Affairs" contains dozens of small articles about eating in the 1980s and 1990s, and if you read it with his book "With the Encounter", you can get its true taste, just like white chopped chicken must be accompanied by special soy sauce.

Wang Lao was a Gaoyou man, and in 223 BC, the King of Qin, Yingzheng, built a high platform and set up a post pavilion here, so it was named Gaoyou. Although he did not like that people would talk to him about salted duck eggs as soon as they learned that he was a Gaoyou person, it seemed that Gaoyou only produced salted duck eggs. But the latter is really Gaoyou's "business card". The Dragon Boat Festival is approaching, and it is again written by Wang Lao about eating articles, first of all, we should talk about salted duck eggs. "My hometown is a water town. Out of the duck. The Gaoyou cannabis duck is a famous duck species. There are more ducks, and there are more duck eggs." Wang Lao did not like Yuan Zicai but still quoted that the "Suiyuan Food List" has a "pickled egg" and "with honor". "Pickled eggs are better than GaoYou, the color is red and oily, and Gao Wenruigong likes to eat it the most." During the meal, the guests are treated first. In the dish, it is always advisable to cut open the shell, yellow and white are used at the same time; do not store yellow to white, so that the taste is incomplete and the oil is scattered. "Talking with the owner of the garden is particularly meticulous and exquisite. Some people only eat salted egg yolks and discard the egg whites, which is really "incomplete". Because the best products of oil are often salty, and the salted egg yolk is lighter, if you only eat the yolk, you cannot taste the salted egg. In the same way, I often add more sesame oil to the soy sauce, one to take the fragrance of sesame oil, and the other to reduce the saltiness of the soy sauce.

It is said that Huaiyang cuisine is the main style of China's state banquet, one is that Huaiyang cuisine is lighter and milder and more suitable for the tastes of VIPs from all over the world, and the other is also related to the fact that Premier Zhou is a Huai'an person. Yangzhou is one of the nine prefectures in the Shang Shu Yu Gong, which mentions that "Huaihai only Yangzhou" is called Huaiyang and Weiyang. When Wang Lao talks about eating, huaiyang dishes are indispensable. "Lion's head" is a famous Huaiyang dish, "pork lean and half fat, love to eat fat can also be fat seven thin three, to 'fine cut rough chopping'". Elder Wang specifically mentioned that "the minced meat of the meat grinder is not OK.". So far, whether it is wontons, leaf buns, meat balls and other meat fillings in my family, they are all minced meat cut by my father's hand and never used a meat grinder, and they are chopped with the back of a knife. I eat a lot of Huaiyang restaurants in Shanghai. There is a Shanghai Bomb Critics Troupe on Nanjing West Road, surrounded by Huaiyang restaurants such as Luyang Village, Meilong Town, and Xinzhenjiang. Generally eat well at noon, go to listen to books at 2 p.m., and Yangzhou Restaurant, Lao Banzhai has also eaten many times, of which "lion's head" is almost a must-order dish. Elder Wang said that "the lion's head is loose and not scattered, and the entrance is melted", and these famous restaurants I have eaten can still be achieved. He also mentioned that Premier Zhou would make lion heads, "I once made it at the Hongyan Eighth Route Army Office in Chongqing, saying: 'I haven't done it for many years, come and come, taste!'" 'I think it was done very successfully, because the tone of the tone showed pride."

There is a special "cutting" in the book. Confucius said, "Food is not boring, and it is not boring." In the "Tokyo Dream Record", there is "Linshui Axe, to recommend Fangzhu, is a good taste of the moment". "脍" is "squid", raw fish, raw meat also. Elder Wang mentioned that in 1947, he had eaten a "vinegar fish belt target" in the outer building, which means that the meat on the back ridge of the grass carp is removed, cut into thin slices, poured with sauce, and eaten raw. The article also mentioned "eating crabs raw and eating shrimp alive", Wang Lao thought that "drunken crab is the world's first delicacy", and I also raised my hands in agreement. Unfortunately, I don't drink it, and the taste must have been discounted a lot. (Shi Zhihao)