The nine intersections of the "great wealth", 15 months, many people, many things

The Myth of Love

Downtown Shanghai. 0.25 km². Six roads and nine intersections form a "Tianzi grid".

What do you see when you observe this area for a year?

In 2021, the two authors, Yi Xianfeng and Yang Ying, planned to make a city archive of the street market where their office was located for one year—specifically, to take the intersection of Changle Road and Xiangyang North Road in Shanghai as the center, and walk one block in each of the four directions, south to Xinle Road, east to South Shaanxi Road, north to Julu Road, and west to Fumin Road (in the words that more and more people have known recently, it is "Jufu Chang"). As for what to expect, they didn't know at the time.

"We thought we knew a lot about the city we knew, but not much was actually recorded. Often after a long time, the switch is turned on somewhere in the memory, remembering that something has happened, remembering someone, remembering that you have seen a certain scene, but the memory has been lacking - the so-called time shifts, things change, things are wrong, and so on, there is always something wrong. We just want to pick a place and make a file for it. ”

"I chose to start with Changle Road. It's simple: the office is in Puyuan, just off Changle Road. Close to each other for easy observation of changes. ”

Later, the author said, the 0.25 square kilometers opened up in front of them little by little, and the richness and complexity of the evolutionary biologist E. O. Wilson's breathtaking rainforest, "The species of flora and fauna that unfold before your eyes in an instant may not be seen again that day, that week, or even that year." ”

The field starts with the most important social form in the neighborhood - the shop. In 2021, the "Rich Chief" has been fixed as an area of taverns, and even the surrounding tea shops and cigarette shops have put wine cabinets, and the only "species" that can compete with one of them is coffee shops. Within this 0.25 square kilometers, if you stand at the intersection of Changle Road and Xiangyang North Road, there are more than 20 shops selling coffee in the vicinity, and Starbucks is on the edge of the "Tianzi grid", there is only one.

A few hundred meters of the road, often a few renovations, a few closed for rent, and a few days later, it will be a different look. People who have been shop on these roads for decades will say what it used to be like, while those who were born here as children will say that there hasn't been much change here, except that people and shops have come and gone.

What would they see if they zoomed it out? How would all of this affect each other? What would be the fate of the neighborhood in terms of larger urban changes? "Nine Road Intersections" is a slice of time, but also a map of the city, overlapping in time and space, for the record.

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The following is an excerpt from section 6 of "Nine Junctions", "The Market"

Mr. Leung and Mr. Leung

Mr. Liang was lying in a small room facing north, and just after night, he listened to the sound of the cart unloading vegetables on Xiangyang North Road. At dawn, the voice of the person sounded, and it was the person who went to the vegetable market on Xiangyang Road to buy side dishes. The vegetable market is divided into two sections, one in the south and one in the north, and there is not much difference.

Mr. Liang works at the Meteorological Bureau during the day, so if he has to cheer up and have a bad rest, he will not be happy on this day. It was the 80s, and Mr. Liang was in his twenties. He was born in this room in 1961, and his own water shop next door was still there when he was born. It was an inheritance that my grandfather bought with a few gold bars. "If the soaking shop is opened at the intersection, it will have some power in the local area. Mr. Liang emphasized that grandpa is not ordinary. Teacher Wang laughed on the side: "The soaking shop still has power. "This is the French Concession, at the intersection. ”

Mr. Liang didn't like to be interrupted by his wife, and once again emphasized the extraordinaryness of the intersection, he had a sense of pride, there were three intersections on Xiangyang North Road, the south was Du Yuesheng's office, the north was Pan Gongzhan's house, and the middle one was his grandfather's soaking shop, of course. I don't know what Grandpa did earlier, the underground party also did it, the underworld and the white way, and Chen Yi also gave him a medal, but he lost it later.

Mr. Leung expressed regret. Mr. Liang didn't have much impression of the tiger stove, and when he was four or five years old, he handed it over to the state to run it. He remembered a lot about the woolen sweater factory at the southeast corner of the intersection, the Bayi electroplating factory opposite a woman and child, and the pedal-repairing bicycle behind the woolen sweater factory. There is also the way to school, the back door comes out and goes into the depths of the alley, through the Wu family garden, the big house, and after the past, it is Lane 672, where there is Fumin Road Primary School, the door of the publishing house. After a few years, it is also close to middle school, and after Julu Road, there is Peiying Middle School.

Illustrated by Lu Ran/Inner text

Mr. Liang is in his teens and twenties, and the circle of life is so big. Peiying Middle School is now called East China Model Middle School, with a campus on each side of Fumin Road. Fumin Road Primary School was transformed into Nanyang School in Jing'an District, a school that provides special education for children with intellectual disabilities. The courtyard of the Wu family garden is a bit barren, but the courtyard pattern and buildings are all there, hanging the sign of "returning farmland to small buildings", and the Wu of the Wu family refers to Wu Jingyuan, the founder of Zhonghua Book Company. The publishing house that Mr. Liang said has not changed, and the Shanghai People's Fine Arts Publishing House also has a sense of history, and their comic books have influenced several generations.

The woolen sweater factory and the electroplating factory are long gone. Diagonal to Mr. Liang's soaking shop in the early years is the civilian Lianhua Supermarket, which is the bottom merchant of the Xiangyang Building. Another merchant behind Lianhua that is close to Changle Road is the Jiela Internet Café. Beneath the steps at its doorway, there is a pump and a basin of water next to the plane wood, a classic feature of bicycle garages for decades. I don't know if it's a bicycle repair shop inherited at the entrance of Bayi Electroplating Factory. There are chairs on the steps of the Internet café that have knocked out other people's homes, and occasionally people sit on them. That's a car mechanic. Now who's going to push the bike here and fix it for him?

The soaking shop is now selling steamed vegetables, and it is located at the northwest corner of the intersection of Changle Road and Xiangyang North Road. The small north-facing room where Mr. Liang was born is now the inner room of Sichuan and Shu Maocai, crowded with three tables, which is where Mr. Liang lived for most of his life, and where he and Mr. Wang got married. "This place, how do you put furniture in this room when you get married?" "There should be everything, sofa and big bed, chest of drawers, hahahaha......" Teacher Wang laughed, and later she went to tell others, "Yi asked me if I got married, and I have all of them, can I get married!" Later, the business of the vegetable shop was good, and it wanted to expand in situ, so it was replaced with the staff dormitory on the second floor of the next building and Mr. Liang's inner room. Now lying on the bed on the second floor looking at his mobile phone is Mr. Xiao Liang.

Mr. Xiao Liang used to work as a fitness instructor, and later joined the subway company. When the subway is running normally, he has to work in shifts, and Mr. Xiaoliang doesn't like this work. Since the end of 2021, it has become common for the subway company to resign, and before he has time to think about this major life issue, he has been isolated in the company and can't even go home. When queuing up for nucleic acid, Mr. Wang said that he was isolated in the company, and he had to be at home by himself, but he didn't know how to live. Mr. Xiao Liang used to eat takeout at every meal, which saved trouble. Mr. Wang sometimes thinks that these takeaways are salt and oil, so he makes a little bit of it himself and delivers it in a bento box.

Mr. Xiao Liang has his own more important life issues to think about. That's when to move out of here. Although the demolition is always loud, it is always a little bit worse. It's too hard to get 98% of households to agree. If he doesn't demolish it, he can only nest here, listen to the noise downstairs every day, and now there are no trucks to unload vegetables at night, and the vegetable farm on Xiangyang Road has moved to Julu Road and entered the room, but it is still difficult to stop at night. Mr. Leung is downstairs at Mocking Thrush Coffee, and the Route 624 shop is in business, and he can hear the sound of it all over the street.

Julu Road Temporary Road Vegetable Farm/Neiwentu

If someone tells someone about living on the upper floor of a highway store, it feels cool. Mr. Xiao Liang didn't like it. It's not just because he's a house, it's because it's not his life. He just wants to buy a house and "get in the car" and get out of here quickly. Two rows. From the intersection of Xiangyang North Road to the Post and Telecommunications Hospital, two rows must be dismantled.

At the end of May 2021, Boss Hu of Yutian Liquor Farm told us about this matter, and the details were undoubted. Demolished and renovated the mall? It seems that the volume is a little smaller. We discuss. He said he was going to build a park. What are the benefits of parks? Parks can pay taxes? Across the road is Xiangyang Park, what does it mean to add a green belt here?

Xiaohu's tavern, the entrance during the day is a place for the parking attendant to rest

Ichii

Soon after, I saw reports that "Shanghai plans to add 600 new parks in the next five years" as part of a new five-year plan announced in March. In the new round of urban transformation blueprint, neat neighborhoods, no overhead lines, regular roads, people dressed brightly, pedestrians (in a sense, tourists) take out their mobile phones at any time, and any place can be used as a photo in the frame. Moreover, it is said that there are standards for both the size and number of parks in the country's grand urban planning, and Jing'an District has not yet reached the standard. Although Changle Road has a great reputation, this old neighborhood doesn't seem to have any contribution to meet the standards, it is too marketable, and it seems to be worth sacrificing for it.

It is a rectangular plot, with the long wing being Changle Road and the short side being on Xiangyang North Road. This new plan may turn into a street corner of a park, and the most eye-catching is the Xiangle Steamed Bun Shop. At the intersection, a whole drawer of eggs and a whole drawer of buns are magnificent. In May 2021, it was still a bamboo cage drawer, and a few old women in white were standing there making steamed buns - although it was taken from the meaning of the kitchen, it was not as non-relevantly as the tall small cage business in a large shopping mall, giving you the feeling that the back kitchen couldn't stand and drove the operating table to the front. From time to time, waiters come out with large basins and pour dirty water into the manhole on the side of the road.

Business is really good, at six or seven o'clock in the morning, there are seven or seven eight full of local aunts and uncles, disheveled, yawning, "two vegetables and two meats" , Like a black word, I feel that you are clumsy and hesitant to delay the harmony on the supply and demand assembly line, and even if you use cash, the uncles are much more profitable than you, and the prepared change is placed on the side; after a while, the white-collar workers at work, pinching a vegetable or meat steamed bun and a bag of soybean milk, scan the code to leave; and then relax a little later, from time to time there are blue and yellow riders riding mopeds to park the car on the manhole cover, take three or two buns to eat a few bites and then throw them on the incubator above the pedal, staring at the mobile phone, where are you, I will arrive immediately...... And just like that, it comes and goes, and the day passes.

No. 24 turns through the intersection of Xiangyang North Road and Changle Road/Neiwentu

To the north from the steamed bun shop, along Xiangyang North Road, is a string of snack bars with similar styles and styles, each steaming hot - Meiweixiang Restaurant, Meixin Authentic Shandong Dumplings, Guili Restaurant, Hele Dim Sum Shop, Fujian Qianli Xiang Wonton King, Yellow Braised Chicken Rice, Black Golden Egg Fried Rice. Then, when I arrived at the entrance of Lane 44 of Xiangyang North Road, someone chose crayfish there. It's a big pot. These signboards do not mean that each is a shop, Guili Restaurant is the dine-in stall of Hele Dim Sum Shop, and Delicious Xiang belongs to Xiangle Steamed Bun Shop.

Crayfish belongs to the "black golden egg fried rice", and I feel that it is the originator and master of dark cuisine. The signboard color is bold, with black, gold and white, and two sentences are written on the side of the black and gold egg fried rice, "what to add to listen to you" and "how to fry and listen to me"; all kinds of popular ingredients do not want to let go, all the big-character signboards are very coconut tree coconut water written in the conspicuous place of the store, and now the main one is "Duan's Xuyi lobster". They also sell Ge Lao Mu Zi chicken, "the taste of memory" "began in 95 years old Nanshi Gymnasium". This takeaway window divides the overall layout of the storefront, but it doesn't matter, it's the best to be full.

In the summer of 2022, despite many slogans and ideals, the black golden egg fried rice also ended miserably. At the end of the year, it has changed its name, and the new simplicity is called braised beef noodles. After the entrance of the alley, to the north is a vintage shop called Dangpu, the word Dang has many meanings in Shanghai, there are verbs and adjectives, and homophonic stalks, so there may be some people who like it very much. However, it

At least three pieces of paper were pasted on the door, repeatedly emphasized:

The shop is not a vintage store.

All right.

The steamed bun shop walks west along Changle Road, and next door is the Sichuan Shu Mao Cai that Mr. Liang grew up in, and it also has a brand of "special paper-wrapped fish".

Next door is Yipinxiang Tea House, which is Mr. Mo's shop, which has become a topic of conversation because Lu'an melon slices and craft beer fly together.

Further west, the Mocking Thrush Coffee Shop, the very upright postman Green Door, with pinyin (cháo dōng) added to the shop sign, probably expected that many people will pronounce it as "mocking crow", just as the blackbird will be thought of as a crow, and the blackbird is often seen as a crow.

There are many blackbirds in Shanghai, with yellow beaks, yellow eye circles, smaller than crows, good calls, and other bird calls;

Starling, phoenix crown, and unique hairstyle.

The iron door of Lane 614 next door has been ajar for many years. But there are a few shared charging treasure devices next to the door, and I don't see whose business it is. At first glance, outsiders will think that the most extensive business in this neighborhood is selling beer, but in fact, it is the power bank business that really does not let go of any space. At most, beer does not let go of any store, and the power bank boss does not let go of any space, all the shops, all the space where you can throw a wire - the lane entrance car repair with keys, the small kiosk of the security guard, the next door of the garbage can, even if this shop is idle at this time, several sets of machines must be placed in a window to cut out. There is also a signboard in front of the half-iron door hidden at the entrance of the alley, which reads:

Processed garments, batch processing, customized sample garments

Modify clothing, dry cleaning clothing, knitting sweaters

Tailor's signboard in Lane 614 of Changle Road

The tailor called Xiao Kong, and kept the phone. The arrow below points to the alley, the tailor is always called a small something, a few decades ago when the reform and opening up was like this, Wenzhou people who couldn't survive began to run all over the country, called Xiao Zhang, Xiao Chen, Xiao Li and the like, or simply called Xiao Wenzhou. Changle Road used to sell trendy brands and cheongsams, and then guarded the Huating Road Market in Xiangyang Road Market earlier, and the tailor business in the corners and corners was indispensable.

Tailors are also amazing people in the community. Don't look at them as outsiders, but the real information exchange center, first, because most of the customers are women, there are many short things in the family; second, outsiders have little interests, so it is easy to play the role of a tree hole or a priest; third, they have to find something to say, not too boring, and practice a good audience at the same time, but also practice good eloquence. Hobsbawm said that the shoemakers in the European countryside often became revolutionaries or heretics, often playing the role of intellectuals, and the core reason was the same: well-informed and able to speak good ways.

There is a key booth behind the iron gate, which is more or less the same role. Mr. Wang bought a house in Puyuan, and hung the credit on himself with the key, Mr. Wang was a little unconvinced, and the real estate agency she was looking for was only a few days, but people boasted of being a jack of all trades, and they had to smile when they looked up and didn't look down. To the west of the alley is a tattoo shop, named Tiandao. The font is frizzy, and the pursuit may be this style, with skeletons and bones painted in the signboard, with the style of Long Aotian and Ye Liangchen. But with the blessing of these superheroes, it is difficult to hide the decline, and before the end of the year, it has already closed its doors.

Next door at No. 620 is Yifang Tea, the fruit tea of the Taiwanese, which was everywhere in Shanghai a few years ago. However, the sweetness of fruit tea was not enough, and it lost to milk tea, so Yifang gradually fell behind in the popular beverage industry. Fortunately, they are not as deep as they claim to be in the study and love of fruit tea, they are still more good at marketing, and soon changed their signboard and identity - Xiangyang South Road and this family have transformed into Wang Ning, known as the authentic Guangdong lemon tea king, verdant and verdant, and the business suddenly became hot until the whole area stopped. Marketing or taste, all failed. In the past, it was Double Win Coffee, a chain store, which appeared in various business districts with different identities and positioning in Shanghai, and had the courage to conquer the world, obviously taking the investment.

On Changle Road

No. 624 Changle Road, Sister Ying's highway shop. In 2022, the name will be changed from "624Changle & Highway Store" to "624Changle Changle". The stickers on the windows, the overwhelming array of Polaroid photos, and the perennial aluminium ladder tied to the tree at the door are all still there, but the partnership with the road store is over. The official article of the highway store said that respecting Sister Ying's career choice, all worlds have no teacher, even subcultures.

Shanghai's earliest "highway store" / Neiwentu

No. 626 is Manner Coffee, Shanghai's earliest "two-square-meter café" brand, originally opened on Nanyang Road below Henglong, with a small façade, a window double-as a counter, a coffee machine or a hand-poured window, a signboard and a water list, there are one or two people busy in it, covering an area of two square meters, and now there are countless stores - at the intersection of Changle Road and Changshu Road, there are three Manners within 100 meters, and they no longer adhere to the two-square meter strategy, and have expanded to the baking industry with the support of investment. No. 628 is an izakaya bird roar. In the past, it was the famous "Miss Zhao is not equal". The first generation of Internet celebrity store on Changle Road. They are unusually stable.

An intermediary finally appeared next door, Yaxun Real Estate. The intermediary density on Changle Road is less than that of new houses and sub-new houses, indicating that the housing turnover rate in this area is not high, and it also shows that there are not many houses for sale. The business scope of this "Yaxun Real Estate" is written on the door, and each word is as big as A4 paper: right of use (house), property right house, school district house, old western-style house, and relocation house. To the west of the intermediary is the Liangyou convenience store. It is also one of the earliest convenience chains in Shanghai, as famous as Haode and Ke, but later declined, losing to the Japanese FamilyMart and Lawson.

It is said that Liangyou is a homonym for "grain and oil", and in the early years it may have been grain and oil stores all over Shanghai, and in the era of grain stamps, they were community life and service centers. This huge service system faded away in the 1990s and 2000s, and one of the legacies was convenience stores. Liangyou is not as good as virtue, Kedi, Lianhua these formats, maybe one is that the food system has collapsed more thoroughly, the right to speak is weak, and there is a more important reason for site selection, the grain station is as close to the community as possible, buy dozens of catties of rice and noodles, or don't go too far, so they are all within walking distance of the community center; These places, after several rounds of urban reconstruction, most of them were demolished and demolished.

Daily, cured chicken thighs/text map

In the past, it is the entrance of Lane 638. There is a garbage station, which looks a little dirty. Passing through the alley, there are several fashion stores: Yuzhifang, Legai Shoes, Jiani Clothing, Y+T. After all, Changle Road started in the fashion industry in the early years, and left some old foundations of the foreign trade era, and the door of Yuzhifang was pasted with a poster of the New Year: "Clearance at the end of the year, starting from 50 yuan, regardless of the cost, one piece is not left."

After they passed, it was a drink shop called "Health Candy", and the English sign was called "Kinkon Sugar", which sounded like King Kong with a nasal sound. At this time, the main product is "super delicious yogurt". Next door, the Bloom A.M. flower room at No. 648 is white, not over-renovated, and it doesn't look too extraordinary.

Next to the flower shop is a seven-day holiday, and it is accurately positioned as a dim sum shop. The guests who came from Xiaohongshu were also for dim sum, and the proprietors were middle-aged, with ancient tastes, like "Pulp Fiction", like John Travolta and Uma Thurman, and liked their swing dances. In the movie, Quvolta gets on the stage, takes off his shoes, puts them aside, and begins to writhe, with a blue-collar demeanor, a master of deconstructionism, and the essence of proletarian literature and art. So the logo for the seven-day break is the two protagonists writhing. The young lady who came from Xiaohongshu called it the elderly disco sticker. Yes. Xiao Gu from Yangpu works here.

Next door to it is "Mataki" and "Yoxipunk", which sell vintage accessories. There are always two PU backrest swivel chairs with short legs like corgis at the door, which have a dwarf feel. There are two floors of the entrance mat, the upper floor is the "Artist Entrance" and the lower floor is "Come and Come". Carved goods in the creative market.

Zhenpinxuan, its highly saturated red color goes well with the avocado green next to it. This shop collects or sells old furniture, unfathomable, unsmiling, like an elder on this street. Later, it also sold liquor. Number 656 is Laiyifen. There are dried fruit snack shops everywhere on the streets of Shanghai, and it still insists on not selling alcohol and having ethics. Then there's a wine shop. The specialty store that sells overseas wine has evolved over the generations, and this one is a product of the same era as mahogany furniture stores and old-school women's clothing. It's called "Qi Drink", and from the signboard to the name to the decoration style, it really looks like a legacy from 20 years ago.

On the west side of Qiyin is Lane 660. The entrance of the alley is another door unlock with a key. The master may have been more skilled, emphasizing his abilities in the field of remote fob and car keys. Then there is the Post and Telecommunications Hospital. This is where the scope of the legendary demolition ends. 33 small businesses of all kinds of similarities or swords, good friends who occupy three facades or uncles with keys who do not occupy the façade or ubiquitous power banks, together occupy the 100 meters. The most common sight on this street is the dog walking uncle sitting at the door of the seventh-day holiday, walking two dogs, one for him and the other for his brother. Are they really going to build a park? "It can't be built. How many times has the Lieutenant Committee met, and the number of votes is not enough. The vote was 98% of all residents, and now it is less than 95%. ”

Changle Road, Uncle and Dog / Neiwentu

Lieutenant Committee. Mr. Wang insisted on not calling it a neighborhood committee, nor did he care if they called it a community, but insisted on calling it a neighborhood committee, revealing a kind of local steadfastness. When she was quarantined at home, she would do well in the group compared to the Liwei of Luwan, which is theoretically Huangpu District, but Teacher Wang is still used to calling it Luwan. She was born in Huaihaifang, which is only across Shaanxi Road, but it belongs to Luwan District—when it was first built, it was inhabited by doctors, senior classes, and wealthy staff. Teacher Wang said that it is well done, and Xuhui is closer to here, although they once even had to put a seal on the door of every house, but the materials were sent well, and they were sent 19 times!

In April and May, the demolition and relocation, which worried Mr. Wang, were as silent as all things. At that time, everyone could only watch small videos, and the trees in the park were cut down and transported into a container-like shed. The advantage of the park is that it is "public", as long as it enters the public space, the public administration can use it at any time. Therefore, it is easy to understand that there is as much "public" space as possible.

"Nine Junctions"

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