What is "niacinamide"?
"Niacinamide" is a form of vitamin B3, and another form is called niacin, which is also recognized as an anti-aging ingredient in the field of cosmetic dermatology.
The effect of "niacinamide" is derived from the maintenance and improvement of cell function through energy metabolism, and it has a whitening effect on the skin, and it is chemically stable and not prone to deterioration.
Efficacy of niacinamide
1. Whitening and lightening spots This is the most common effect of niacinamide added in skin care products.
It can hinder the migration of melanin
After melanin is produced, it is only after it is transported to the stratum corneum that the skin will develop spots. The function of niacinamide is to block the transfer of melanin to the stratum corneum of the skin, reduce the deposition of melanin in the stratum corneum, and avoid skin spots.
Accelerates cell metabolism
Niacinamide provides sufficient energy for the skin, promotes cell metabolism, promotes the synthesis of collagen, prevents skin dehydration and uneven keratin, avoids melanin precipitation, and then promotes the metabolism of melanin-containing cells.
2. Repair the skin barrier
Another ingredient called ceramide is an important component of the stratum corneum, accounting for 50% of intercellular lipids, which plays a role in preventing the loss of moisture in the skin, and can bind keratinocytes to stabilize the physical barrier.
Topical nicotinamide can enhance the activity of this serine palmitoyltransferase, promote the synthesis of ceramides in the skin, prevent skin moisture loss, and enhance the skin's barrier function.
3. Effective anti-aging
Niacinamide can activate fibroblasts, promote the synthesis of elastin and collagen, make the skin firmer and lighten wrinkles. At the same time, niacinamide can reduce the consumption of triphosphate adenoxins, provide energy for cell repair, and resist UV damage.
In order to exert the different effects of niacinamide, there are also different concentrations and dosages in the application of skin care products.
1% niacinamide can maintain cell viability and accelerate cell metabolism
2% niacinamide has the effect of controlling oil and repairing the skin barrier
2%~5%: all have whitening effect, with the increase of concentration, the whitening effect is more obvious;
5% niacinamide lightens spots and acne scars, and can also promote collagen production without being too irritating
And more than 5% niacinamide can be irritating to the skin
Therefore, niacinamide is a certain irritating ingredient that needs to be tolerated before long-term use.
How to build tolerance
What happens if you are intolerant to niacinamide? The skin is red, burning, stinging, peeling, and a large number of closed pimples quickly pop up in a short period of time.
How to build tolerance to avoid a bad face?
Start the test with low concentration, and do a sensitivity test on the back of the ears, back of the hands, chin, and forehead on the second day, and apply two drops to the whole face on the third day, and use it 2~3 times in the first week. Increase the amount, frequency, and concentration gradually.
Some misconceptions about the use of niacinamide should be avoided carefully
1. Not suitable for pregnant and lactating women, and those who are allergic to niacinamide!
2. Not suitable for sensitive skin and people with thin stratum corneum!
3. Niacinamide should not be mixed with any acidic substances such as fruit acid, salicylic acid, high concentration of VC, etc., when these two substances are mixed, a large amount of niacin will be released, causing irritation to the skin.
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