Zuhair Murad|Fall/Winter 2023 Collection (1)
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This season, Zuhair Murad travels to the circus. Not literally: the Beirut-based designer is more likely to express momentum using ribbons, bows, rings, metal balls and other ornaments of jugglers, clowns, snake women and acrobats to express kinetic energy and pay homage to "bold and inspiring women who live in powerful bodies". He also drew inspiration from the late artist Niki de Saint Phalle, whose Nanas sculptures by Niki de Saint Phalle break with tradition and are full of color, curves and bodily positivity.
Filtered through Murad's prisms, diamond shapes traditionally associated with acrobats – which is also a prominent theme for menswear next season – appear in black and white or openwork shapes, probably 60s shapes. The silhouette of black cady – jumpsuits, short tops, long-barreled dresses with open backs and droops – is etched with gem-colored crystal trims. Tulle evening wear is inspired by lingerie and can be worn with or without a cape.
This season marks Murad's first foray into tweed, presented in dark mini dresses and skirts with leopard print or python motifs. Zebras and tigers also appear here, with gold motifs on black velvet and lace, or silver sequin patterns on jacket shoulders. The shimmering pleated tinsel dress is Murad's favorite; This season, they launched a wrap dress with a ring detail that echoes the trapeze man's essential accessory, now encrusted with diamonds. Fitted stretch-knit is another addition to Murad, also fluffy, long or short two-tone faux fur.
Not all of them will be on the red carpet. After all, today's stars are all after simple looks with no extra flashiness – that is, Jessica Chastain wore a taffeta fuchsia at the recent Screen Actors Guild Awards ceremony. But Murad's supporters are dressing up again, and often so: their social calendar is a true three-ring circus here, as evidenced by his recent soft opening of his fourth boutique in Qatar. In the fall, Murad achieved a balance.
—TINA ISAAC-GOIZE
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