This article is an original work by Mr. Pan Yingjun, author of the "Cantonese Chef's Guide" series, aiming at the study of food culture and cooking technology
Body:
Chicken with pork belly
Ingredients: 1000 grams of pork belly, 1800 grams of chicken, 5 white fruits, 15 grams of sand ginseng, 15 grams of jade bamboo, 25 grams of pepper root, 15 grams of red jujube, 8 grams of stilbene, 8 grams of codonopsis, 3 grams of angelica, 0.2 grams of Sichuan peppercorns, 30 grams of peppercorns, 20 grams of goji berries, 2500 grams of light two soup, 18 grams of refined salt, 15 grams of chicken essence.
Chicken with pork belly (headline recommended image)
How to make it:
Ming Dynasty pharmacist Li Shizhen in the "Compendium of Materia Medica, Beast Department, Pork Belly" cloud: "Pigs and water animals and stomach belong to the soil, so the prescription is medicinal to replenish deficiency, and the stomach is also treated with the stomach",
Therefore, this dish can be said to be medicinal.
However, the biggest marketing technique of this dish is not only that, but also interpreted into a medicinal hot pot, which can not only eat pork belly, chicken items, but also drink its soup, and even use its soup to burn other meat ingredients and eat.
It is common knowledge that the pork belly must be cleaned before cooking, but there are many cooks who will put some white vinegar to scrub it for convenience to remove the liquid on the smooth surface of the pork belly ("Ji Yun": "the fish dragon body is slippery").
At first glance, this method looks like the liquid is cleaned, but in fact, it not only destroys the texture and taste of the pork belly, but also makes the pork belly crack after cooking.
Very inappropriate.
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The reason is that the juice on the pork belly is the gastric juice of the pig, and the pH value (pH) of the gastric juice itself will play a role in protecting the pork belly, and changing it rashly will destroy the texture, taste and appearance of the pork belly. It's not an exaggeration to describe it as counterproductive.
The method of pork belly cleaning is introduced in the "Cantonese Chef Treasure Book • Cutting Board Chapter · Ji Zaizhang • Washing Pork Belly", which is no longer cumbersome here.
A chicken is a hen that has never laid an egg. Its meat is tenderer than that of hens, and its bones are also crisp and soft.
The method of chopping chicken is introduced in the "Cantonese Chef Treasure Book · Cutting Board Chapter · 劏zaizhang · Chopped Chicken", and it is no longer cumbersome here.
The cleaned chicken is the "light chicken", and what is actually needed here is the chicken that is dehaired, dirty, and clawed.
Peel the white fruit and rinse it with clean water.
White fruit (headline recommended image)
Sand ginseng, jade bamboo, pepper root, red dates, stilbene, codonopsis, angelica, peppercorns (Sichuan pepper), peppercorns and goji berries were washed with clean water.
Fill the chicken necklace with ripe white fruit and peppercorns, stuff the chicken necklace into the pork belly (glossy side out), and then close the pork belly opening with a bamboo stick.
Put the light two soup together with sand ginseng, jade bamboo, pepper root, red dates, stilbene, codonopsis, angelica and Sichuan pepper (Sichuan pepper) into the tile, heat over medium heat until boiling, and then put the pork belly stuffed into the chicken into the soup (it must be completely immersed in the soup, otherwise the pork belly will turn tan due to oxidation), keep it on medium heat and cook for 90 minutes.
Then, while the soup is still boiling, add goji berries and season with fine salt and MSG to serve.
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For meals, the tiles are brought out on the gas stove.
The waiter scoops up the pork belly and chicken necklace. The cutting board chef cuts the pork belly, removes the chicken items, then cuts the pork belly into slices, chops the chicken necklace and places it on a plate, and the waiter brings it back to the diners.
This dish is served with seafood soy sauce for guests to dip. For the recipe and method of seafood soy sauce, please refer to the "Cantonese Chef's Treasure Book, Waiting Wok Chapter, Sauce Zhang, Seafood Soy Sauce (Black Fish Sauce).
Teacher Pan presses:
Note 1: White fruit is a continental specialty, that is, gymnospermae [Gymnospermae] Ginkgopsida Ginkgopsida Ginkgogoales Ginkgoaceae Ginkgoaceae Ginkgo biloba [Ginkgo] Ginkgo biloba L. of seeds,
There are 12 varieties including Dongting Huang, Little Buddha Hand, Ducktail Ginkgo, Buddha Finger, Egg Fruit Bergamot, Round Bottom Buddha Hand, Olive Buddha Hand, Heartless Ginkgo, Big Plum Pit, Tongzi Fruit, Cotton Fruit and Dama Bell.
The pulp outer seed coat of white fruit contains toxic substances such as white fruit acid, white fruit alcohol and white fruit phenol, and cannot be eaten raw; Although it is non-toxic after cooking with water, it is not advisable to eat more.
Note 2: Sand ginseng is divided into "South Sand Ginseng" and "North Sand Ginseng".
The former are the dicotyledonous plant order [Dicotyledoneae], the suborder Sympetalae, Campanulales, Campanulaceae, Campanulaceae, Campanulideae, bellflower, and Adenophora, Sand ginseng [Sect. Microdiscus] Subsect Adenophora stricta Miq. rhizome,
It has the effect of nourishing yin and clearing the lungs, dissolving phlegm and invigorating qi.
The latter are Dicotyledoneae, primitive tepals [Archichlamydeae], Umbelliflorae, Umbelliferae, Apioideae, Pericornae, Angelicae, Glehnia, and Glehnia littoralis Fr. Schmidt ex Miq.] rhizome,
Traditional Chinese medicine believes that it has the effect of clearing the lungs, nourishing yin and relieving cough.
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Note 3: Yuzhu, also known as "tail ginseng", "ground tube" and "bell vegetable", is a monocotyledoneae [Monocotyledoneae] Liliflorae [Subordo Liliineae] Liliaceae [Polygonateae] Polygonatum [Ser. Alternifolia Baker] Polygonatum odoratum Mill. of rhizomes.
Traditional Chinese medicine believes that it has the effect of nourishing yin, moisturizing, nourishing the stomach, eliminating irritability, rejuvenating and quenching thirst.
Note 4: Piper is a subgenus of dicotyledoneae [Archichlamydeae] Piperales, Piperaceae, Piperine, Subgenus [Subgen. Piper] pepper group [Sect. Piper] pepper [Piper nigrum L." of fruits.
This fruit mainly contains piperine and a small amount of pepper volatile oil, used for seasoning, also used as stomach cold medicine, can warm the stomach to disperse cold, strengthen the stomach and stop vomiting, take a small amount can increase appetite, excessive stimulation of the gastric mucosa to cause congestive inflammation.
Pepper root is pepper [Piper nigrum L.] of rhizomes.
Note 5: Red dates, also known as "jujubes", are the original tepal suborder of the dicotyledoneae [Archichlamydeae] Rhamnales, Rhamnaceae, Rhamnaceae, and the jujube family [Trib. Zizipheae] Ziziphus jujuba Mill. var. inermis (Bunge) Rehd. of fruits.
The medicine and meals are all sun-dried products, which are believed by Chinese medicine to have the effect of nourishing the stomach, strengthening the spleen, invigorating the blood, nourishing and strengthening the body.
Note 6: Astella, also known as "Astragalus" and "Astragalus", is a suborder of dicotyledoneae [Archichlamydeae] Rosineae [Rosales] Rosineae Leguminosae Butterfly flower subfamily [Papilionoideae] Goat beans [TRIB. Galegeae] Astragalus subfamily [SUBTRIB. Astragalinae] Astragalus [Subgen. Phaca] membrane pod group [Sect. Cenantrum] Astragalus membranaceus (Fisch.) Bunge].
"Compendium of Materia Medica" cloud: "Senior, Changye, Astragalus yellow, the name of the long of the tonic".
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Note 7: Codonopsis is a subfamily [Sympetalae] of the dicotyledoneae [Campanulaceae] Campanulaceae [Campanulaceae] Subfamily [Subgen. Codonopsis] Party Membership Group [Sect. Codonopsis pilosula (Franch.) Nannf.] of rhizomes.
Traditional Chinese medicine believes that it has the effect of tonifying qi, nourishing the stomach, expectorant and relieving cough.
Note 8: Angelica dicotyledoneae [Archichlamydeae] Umbelliflorae [Umbelliferae] Apioideae [PEUCEDANEAE] Angelica subfamily [ANGELICINAE] Angelica sinensis Oliv.) Diels].
Traditional Chinese medicine believes that it has the effect of tonifying blood, harmonizing blood, regulating menstruation and relieving pain, and moisturizing the intestines and intestines.
Note 9: Zanthoxylum dicotyledonae [Dicotyledoneae] Archichlamydeae Rutales [Rutales] Rutae suborder [Rutineae] Rutaceae [Rutaceae] Subfamily Rufamm. Rutoideae] Zanthoxylum subgenus [Subgen. Zanthoxylum bungeanum Maxim. of seeds.
In Chinese medicine, the seed of the original kernel is called "peppercorn", the outer peel of the seed is called "pepper red", the inner peel is called "yellow shell", and the inner kernel is called "pepper eye".
It is the best produced in Shaanxi and Sichuan, so it has the alias of "Sichuan pepper".
The biggest peppercorns are especially for the eaters to produce a sensory feeling of "hemp". However, the substance that produces "hemp" is oil-soluble, and it will only appear under the background of oil, and only incense will be produced in the environment of water.
This is why Cantonese people often use it with star anise (anise) to cook without "hemp".
Traditional Chinese medicine believes that it has the effects of warming qi, chasing cold, relieving pain, and killing insects.
Note 10: Goji berries are dicotyledoneae [Sympetalae] tubular flowers [Tubiflorae] Solanaceae Solanaceae [Solaneae] Goji subfamily [Lyciinae] Goji berries [Lycium] Goji berries [Lycium chinense Mill.] of fruits.
Traditional Chinese medicine believes that it is beneficial to the eyes and nourishes the liver and kidneys.
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Oil bubbles refreshing
Ingredients: 1000 grams of pork belly, 25 grams of green onion, 20 grams of ginger flowers, 5 grams of carrot (carrot) flowers, 10 grams of Shaoxing flower carving wine, 7.5 grams of refined salt, 5 grams of monosodium glutamate, 3 grams of sugar, 0.1 grams of pepper, 5 grams of wet starch, 0.5 grams of sesame oil, 3500 grams of peanut oil (for frying).
General illustration
How to make it:
Pork belly is worthy of being called the "treasure of pigs", as early as the early Qing Dynasty, Qianlong talent Yuan Zhen cited two examples of pork belly eating methods in the "Suiyuan Food List", one of which is very similar to the dish method to be introduced, and it can be seen that the previous people cherished pork belly is aimed at the crisp texture of pork belly.
However, no matter how fresh the pork belly is and how skillful the chef is, it cannot satisfy the desire of diners for the crisp texture of the pork belly. It is for this reason that the senior chef had to resort to chemical methods to help after exhausting all physical methods.
Pork belly, like the powder sausage (small intestine) and large intestine, is a meat texture composed of a tight network shape, with a tough texture and strong elasticity.
The reason why powder sausages can obtain a crisp texture is entirely because the intestinal wall is thin, human teeth can be easily bitten off, and then given a properly cooked cooking method can satisfy the desires of diners.
In contrast, no chef has tried to cook the large intestine in the same way, because the wall intestine of the large intestine is very thick, and it is difficult for human teeth to bite off easily, and even if it is just ripe, it cannot show a crisp texture.
The pork belly is different from the powder sausage (small intestine) and the large intestine, the pork belly is divided into two areas, the cardia gland area and the pyloric gland area, among which the cardia gland area is nothing special, and the inner and outer belly walls plus a loose reticulated interlayer have little space for interpretation;
The pyloric gland area, commonly known as the "top of the pork belly", is characterized by a thick and soft interlayer, which easily obtains a crisp texture.
However, whether it is powder sausage (small intestine) or "pork belly top", even if it is cooked with skillful and rapid heat, the problem of uneven heating of meat fiber cannot be avoided, which will lead to the phenomenon of unripe geng and overripe toughness.
The reason why the heating is uneven is because the fleshy fiber violates the natural law of thermal expansion and unusually shrinks.
If there is no solid heat transfer medium between the meat fibers, it is difficult for the shrinking meat fibers to ripen in the rapid heating time.
Therefore, the initiator of the inability to satisfy diners' desire for the crisp texture of pork belly is the lack of a reliable heat transfer medium between the meat fibers.
In the case of pork belly tops, the heat transfer medium of its fleshy fibers is water.
If the crux of the problem is found, it is necessary to take targeted measures to deal with it.
In fact, after Qianlong's talented son Yuan Zhen recorded two cases of pork belly eating method, some chefs sought breakthroughs to eliminate the problems caused by the heat shrinkage of meat fiber through chemical methods.
The principle is not difficult to understand, that is, to add a marinating program before the "pork belly top" is cooked, this program is not to give the "pork belly top" flavor, but to make the "pork belly top" improve the water holding capacity.
In order to improve the water holding capacity of the "pork belly top", the senior chef thought of adding alkaline food additives such as Chen Cun water (potassium carbonate), food powder (sodium bicarbonate) and caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) to the pickling process.
The intention is to adjust the pH value (pH) of the "pork belly top" to fully hold the "pork belly top" with water, so that its fleshy fiber gap has a solid heat transfer medium when heated, and then let the "pork belly top" heat evenly, so as to obtain a crisp texture.
The use of alkaline food additives to marinate "pork belly top", Cantonese chefs call it "pickled belly", pickling recipe and marinating method can be found in "Cantonese Chef's Treasure Book • Cutting Board Chapter • Pickling Chapter • Pickled Belly", at the same time, the principle of pickling can be found in "Kitchen "Pei" Fang", in that it is no longer cumbersome.
The marinated "pork belly top" is cut diagonally into 0.3 cm slices with a knife.
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It should be added that in order to make the "pork belly top" easy to cook, some chefs first cut the belly surface with pits when cutting thin slices.
This is also a good idea.
Pour peanut oil into an iron wok (pot) and heat it over medium heat to a temperature of 50% oil (150°C), put the thinly sliced "pork belly top" into the oil, and quickly beat it to make the "pork belly top" heat evenly, about 20 seconds with a fence, set it on the oil pan to drain off the oil.
Cantonese chefs call this procedure "pulling oil".
After heating the peanut oil, add green onion, ginger flowers, carrot (carrot) flowers and drained "pork belly top", then save Shaoxing flower and throw two iron wok (pot) to disperse and heat evenly.
Pull the iron wok (pot) away from the stove, add refined salt, sugar, pepper, and fill the hand shell with wet starch.
Put the iron wok (pot) back into the stove mouth, change the heat to medium heat, throw the iron wok (pot) with one hand, and pour wet starch with the other hand, so that each material is wrapped in wet starch.
Bring the iron wok (pot) to the beating (kitchen assistant) table, add sesame oil as the tail oil, and then decant the ingredients on the clay plate for dinner.
Teacher Pan presses:
Note 1: In the Qing Dynasty, Yuan Zhang's "Suiyuan Food List, Special Animal List, and Pork Belly Two Methods" has the following words: "Wash the belly, take a very thick place, remove the upper and lower skins, use the center alone, and cut the dice pieces; Stir-fry in oil, add ingredients to the pot, preferably extremely crispy, this northerner method also. Nanren white water and wine simmered with two sticks of fragrant, with extreme rotten as the degree, dipped in salt can also be eaten; Or add chicken broth as a ingredient to simmer and smoke, it is also good. ”
Note 2: During the Republic of China period (1912-1949), the "Secret Recipes, Part III, Pig Gate, Section 34, Fried Belly Tip" cloud:
"Prepare (ingredients) a pork belly, a little salt, an appropriate amount of oil, fiber (potato) powder, white soy sauce, shoji wine, white vinegar, sand sugar (all in moderation). Attached (1) Several raw onions and several fragrant herbs. (2) Appropriate amount of water purification, and a little water. Surgery: (Step 1) Flip the pork belly, scratch it with salt, scrub it clean, take the thickest part and cut it for later use. (Step 2) Remove the upper and lower skin of the belly collar, only cut the center into dice-sized pieces, put them in a boiling oil pan and fry them, add fiber (chia) powder, white soy sauce, white vinegar, shojiu, sand (sic) sugar (the ingredients should be pre-adjusted, and then put in), and then stir-fry a few times until the stir-fry is very crispy and served on the table, and eaten hot. Note: (1) There are also several fried with raw green onions and fragrant herbs. (2) After cutting the pork belly, use a little alkaline water to soak and mix for half a moment, then use clean water to rinse the water, and then fry, you can get the same beautiful fruit. ”
Note 3: For the definition and cutting method of green onion, ginger flower and carrot (carrot) flower, please refer to the Cantonese Chef's Guide - Cutting Plate.
White fruit pork belly soup
Ingredients: 1000 grams of pork belly, 150 grams of bamboo, 20 white fruits, 3 grams of peppercorns, 12 grams of Huaishan Mountain, 2 grams of chia, 2 grams of barley, 5 grams of red dates, 8 grams of refined salt, 8 grams of monosodium glutamate, 8 grams of chicken essence, 3500 grams of water.
White fruit pork belly soup (headline recommended image)
How to make it:
Guangzhou people have a phrase to describe fate, "Restaurant soup - rectification (already arranged)", indicating that in addition to food, Cantonese restaurants also have a very popular soup, which is different from food and must be prepared in advance.
The soup food in Cantonese restaurant is mainly processed by 5 cooking methods, namely "Sichuan", "Qing", "Rolling", "Stewing" and "Pot".
"Chuan" is supposed to be derived from the method of cooking, which refers to the cooking method of pouring boiling soup into ingredients placed in the tile wo.
A classic example of this method is Yunnan's "rice noodles across the bridge".
The practice of "Qing" is almost identical to the interpretation of "chuan", but the purpose of the two is different. "Qing" focuses on soup, with ingredients secondary; "Chuan", on the contrary, focuses on ingredients, and soup is secondary.
A classic example of this method is Guangzhou's "clear soup fish belly".
"Roll" was originally written as "涫", which refers to the cooking method in which ingredients are processed into soup by putting boiling water or soup.
The reason why it is called "rolling" is because the cooking time is not long, about 5 minutes, and the common case is "tofu coriander soup".
"Stewing" refers to a cooking method in which ingredients and water are placed in a sealed clay bowl and heated with steam.
Common cases include "ginseng stewed black chicken" and so on.
"Pot" refers to a cooking method in which ingredients and water are placed in a clay pot () and heated over a fire.
Common cases include "white fruit pork belly soup" and so on.
It should be pointed out that "stew" and "pot" are regarded by Cantonese as a cooking method with nourishing function, their difference lies in the heating temperature, the heating temperature of "stew" is almost constant at 100 °C, at this temperature, the water-soluble protein of the meat will gradually chelate together over time, so the soup is relatively clear and the taste is relatively thin;
The heating temperature of the "pot" exceeds 100 °C most of the time, and the water-soluble protein of the meat will not chelate and disperse in the soup, the soup is relatively turbid and the taste is relatively strong, so the soup has the reputation of mouthwatering "old fire soup".
This soup is not complicated to make, clean the pork belly, press flat on a cutting board, split it, and cut it into thumb-width strips.
Peel the white fruit, simmer and rinse and remove the coat.
Wash the bamboo, peppercorns (original or evenly crushed), Huaishan, Qianshi seed, barley and red dates.
Put water into a clay pot () and heat it until it boils, then add pork belly strips (there is also an original pork belly, take out the cut strips after the soup is cooked, and put them back into the soup), white fruit, bamboo, peppercorn, Huaishan , Qianshi , barley and red dates, keep heated for about 20 minutes, and then turn to medium heat for 40 minutes.
Mix with fine salt, monosodium glutamate and chicken essence to serve guests.
It should be noted that during the heating process, do not expose the pork belly to the surface, otherwise the pork belly will turn brown and lose its smooth texture.
Teacher Pan presses:
Note 1: Branch bamboo is a product of soybeans (soybeans) pressed into soy milk, heated to about 65 °C, coagulated into clothing, and then picked up to dry until dry. Putting it in "white fruit pork belly soup" can play a role in whitening and smoothing.
Note 2: Huaishan is a member of the monocotyledoneae [Monocotyledoneae] Liliflorae, Suborder Subordo liliineae, Diostentaceae, Diostecaceae, Dioscorea, Dioscorea, Periferonic Wing Formation [Sect. Enantiophyllum] Dioscorea opposita Thunb. The tubers are also known as "yam", "Huaiyam", "noodle yam", etc., but they are peeled, sliced and dried to be called "Huaishan".
Note 3: Nymphaeaceae, also known as "chicken head rice", is a subfamily of dicotyledoneae [Archichlamydeae] of the original tepal suborder [Archichlamydeae] [Ranales] Nymphaeaceae. Nymphaeoideae] Euryale ferox Salisb. of seeds, fresh and dried products are available on the market, and soups are usually dried products.
Note 4: Barley, also known as "Granule rice", "Green grain (valley)", "Sense rice", "Six grains (grain) rice" and "Hui rice", is a monocotyledoneae [Graminales] grass [Graminales] grass [Gramineae] millet subfamily [Panicoideae] Millet [Trib. Maydeae] Coix [Coix] Barley [Coix chinensis Tod." of seeds, fresh and dried products are available on the market, and soups are usually dried products.
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