Food is a person's deepest nostalgia. Some delicacies are not only delicious, but also evoke good memories. Especially the food eaten in childhood is like the key to time, and the inadvertent touch of the tip of the tongue can open the box of memory. The most common fried sticks on the breakfast table are the first memories of many people's delicious taste. Chew slowly and savor the "crunch" sound of the fritters, and indulge in the long and long wheat aroma, warm and beautiful.
It is said that fritters were invented by the people of Lin'an (present-day Hangzhou). The "History of Song" records that during the reign of Emperor Gaozong of the Southern Song Dynasty, the traitor Qin Hui killed the national hero Yue Fei on "trumped-up" charges.
When the people heard about this, they were all filled with grief and hatred. People couldn't wait to eat Qin Juniper's flesh and peel Qin Juniper's skin to pay homage to Yue Fei's spirit in the sky. A local noodle vendor, in order to express his hatred for the Qin juniper couple, kneaded the dough into two human-shaped dough pieces and intertwined them, one of which represented Qin juniper and the other represented the Qin Wang clan. Then fry in a frying pan. While frying, shouting: "Frying is braised and fried is braised in oil". The people around came over curiously, saw the noodles tumbling in the oil pot, and immediately understood the meaning: let Qin Hui and his wife suffer from frying, and be eaten by the world. Hate is also Gangnam, love is also Gangnam. No matter how great the hatred in history, it will disappear in culture over time. "Fried stew" seems to be a bit tragic, and over time, there is an improved version. Put it together with spring onions, and then roll it up with a thin piece of dough, called "green onion bun stew", and now it is like Dongpo meat and West Lake vinegar fish, which has become a famous dish (point) in Hangzhou.
Su Dongpo is 57 years older than Qin Huan, and although he is in the sea of palaces, his little life is still interesting. According to the "Zaiyuan Magazine" written by Liu Tingji during the Kangxi Dynasty of the Qing Dynasty, it is recorded that Dongpo lived in Huangzhou for five years, and suddenly the good news came, and the official was promoted to the third rank and entered Beijing on orders. After crossing the Yellow River to a place called Wangjiaying, you can tell by the name of the place that it is a rural village. There was a roadside stall where fritters were being fried in the dust. Dongpo was so hungry that he did not dismount, reaching for a stick and chewing it. Passers-by and fellow travelers all laughed when they saw it, thinking that Dongpo had lost official manners. Dongpo smiled: "I haven't seen this product for sixteen years, I'm really ecstatic."
"Fried stew" and "fried dough sticks" are the same type of food, but the names are different. Su Dongpo of the Northern Song Dynasty ate a happy life, while the common people of the Southern Song Dynasty ate love and hate.
After the popularization of "fried juniper", the number of people called "fried churros" gradually increased, and then a neutral word was derived, called "old fritters". When counting down a person, I often hear: "You old fritters!" You old churros "! What do the words "old fritters" mean? Is it to say that this person is too oily and slippery and unlikable? Or is he too old and too sophisticated? If there is an old one, it should correspond to the tender one, is it better to be old or tender? Some Chinese words can only be understood and cannot be spoken. However, for food, of course, it is fresh and good, "cardamom head in early February", pay attention to a "tender" word. However, outside the oil regulations, it should not be too tender, it must be old. But old also has to have an old scale, and the "old" of fritters should be the "old" of. This kind of "old" is a mature appearance that has gone through the wind and dust, and the corners of the eyebrows and eyes are full of styles.
The good-looking, fragrant and crispy fritters have to be made with traditional old fermented hair noodles. After the teacher has finished the noodles, knead them into a dough, first press the noodles evenly and delicately with his fists, cut them into noodles about two fingers wide, and then use chopsticks to dip some water and rub them in the middle of the lower piece of noodles, just like a dragonfly with water. Then put another piece on it and press it in the middle with chopsticks to make sure it doesn't separate when frying. After the noodles were pressed, the master gently grasped the two ends, twisted them left and right, and threw them into the steaming oil pot, and the entwined noodles were sinking and floating in the oil pot, and the master held two long chopsticks in his hand, turning them from time to time, magically swelling the noodles into fat, yellow fritters.
Mr. Wang Zengqi, an essayist and gourmet, has a special preference for fritters, and he has a great use for fried fritters. There is a famous dish in Huaiyang cuisine that he pioneered, called fritters stuffed meat. It is in the cut fritters, stuffed with meat and leek filling, fried in the pan, fried and eaten, crispy and good. The taste of this dish is indeed good, and when eating, it is "crunching" as usual, and it is very lively. When drinking preserved egg porridge, you may wish to chop the fritters and put them in the porridge, which also tastes good.
Taiwan's famous singer Lin Junjie once sang a song, using soy milk and fritters to represent the feelings between couples, beautiful lyrics "You say I'm like fritters, very simple but very beautiful, I know that you and I are like soy milk fritters, to eat together the taste will be the best", listening to the song, eating fritters, soy milk, feeling that they are the happiest person under the sun. In fact, no matter how you eat, it contains people's hope for a better life, and it is also a inheritance of traditional culture. People always like to put their concerns and concerns in food, put food on dinner plates and bags, and thus take their hometown to distant places.
I was about six or seven years old when I first ate fritters, a time when there was a lack of oil. My family lives in a remote countryside and only has the opportunity to visit the market during the holidays. At that time, my father worked at a rural credit union, which was close to the market, and I was choked by the variety of snacks in the market. The smell of fritters from afar made me swallow. So, I secretly ran to the stall selling fritters, but unfortunately there was no money in my pocket, so I had to stand on tiptoe, stretch my head forward, and timidly say to the boss "Fried sticks on credit", and the boss asked me kindly, "Whose child are you?" How come I haven't seen it"? I straightened my chest and boldly reported my father's name. Unexpectedly, my father's face came in handy. That time, I easily "tricked" two fritters. When I grew up, whenever I talked to my father about it, my father would laugh, and his laughter was full of love and pity.
Childhood memories, sweet and funny, like chewing sweet glutinous. Nowadays, milk and bread have become the standard for breakfast, and they have long entered the homes of ordinary people, but I often miss fritters. Some days if you don't eat, you will naturally think of it. I have the habit of getting up early to run, and I will definitely eat fritters after running. Guarding by the stall, the steaming fritters have just come out of the pot, "grab" two while it is hot, standing or sitting, different ways to eat, enjoy the same happiness, life is actually simple, the key is what kind of life you want. I have chased poetry and distant places, but I still can't forget the crispy aroma of fritters. Time has imprinted that crisp fragrance on my taste buds, and at this time, I vaguely hear the echoes of the depths of the years, crunching, crunching... (Author: Wang Xingya, a well-known writer in Chinese police circles)