The just-concluded Fall/Winter Milan Men's Fashion Week 2023 took place from 13 to 17 January, with 21 fashion shows, 31 static shows, 5 scheduled static shows, 4 digital launches and 11 events, for a total of 72 events. In the face of a gradually recovering business environment, many luxury brand executives have also expressed their optimism for 2023 and expressed continued optimism about the Chinese market.
As Carlo Capasa, president of the Italian National Chamber of Fashion (Camera della Moda), said that men's wear week is getting more and more attention, and the growth rate of the Italian menswear business last year exceeded that of womenswear. At the same time, he pointed out before the start of this season and men's fashion week: "We really miss our friends in China, and we expect a large number of Chinese guests to come to Milan this season for men's fashion week." ”
First of all, in the face of the optimism and recovery momentum of Milan Men's Fashion Week in the new season, but also in the face of the new social reality and humanistic context, looking back at the essence and perceiving changes has become the "optimistic way" of many luxury brands.
As Miuccia Prada says, "The most honest thing we can do is create something useful for people in the moment – to face reality through clothing and to construct our ideas about reality." Raf Simons, who is also the co-creative director of Prada, said, "This collection is related to Prada's DNA, and the aesthetic identity of Prada is embedded in the fashion. ”
The Prada Menswear Collection for Fall/Winter 2023 presented by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons is a further exploration of the core principles of fashion, celebrating the meaning, value and importance that fashion still holds today. The simplification and simplicity norms of modernism, combined with comfort, exaggeration, intimacy, collide with each other in obvious contradictions. The new garments embrace fragments of cultural and conceptual traditions, embodying Prada models while incorporating fashion paradigms. Simplified cut, printed and knitted graphic fragments line bare skin.
The garment strips out extraneous details and wraps the figure in tactile communication with the naked body. The silhouette is emphasized, amplified and diminished, exploring extreme changes in the sense of volume of haute couture through the structure of the garment.
In addition, the sense of classic, retro, inward looking back and exploring timeless values, for luxury brands such as Fendi, Giorgio Armani, Dsquared2, Etro, Dolce & Gabbana, optimism also implies a touch of calmness - soft music and the noble temperament of the new collection, the autumn and winter collections are mostly neutral colors and comfortable tailoring, highlighting the classic DNA of Giorgio Armani; Dolce & Gabbana, which presents its Fall/Winter 2023 menswear collection under the theme of "The Essence", interprets the essence of the brand with 81 new menswear collections, with extreme contours showing exquisite tailoring.
The Dsquared2 Fall/Winter 2023 menswear collection is a vintage collection inspired by the early 21st century that reaffirms designer Dean and Dan Caten's preference for style mash-ups and self-expression.
In 2003, to the roar of Boeing jets, Dsquared2 released its first womenswear runway collection, Star 24/7. Twenty years on, the brand spirit of Dsquared2 has found a new way to present it among teenagers of all stripes. Gothic, emotional, stereotypes are broken and reorganized; Carefully quilted denim presents a contrast of proportions; Double-layered paneled trousers are layered with denim on twill; Sumptuous coats blend with Dsquared2's layered and matched DNA from western denim, down or chunky knitwear with lace lingerie and shorts.
Etro's newest creative director, Marco De Vincenzo, took fabric as inspiration for his first menswear collection since joining Etro.
"Fabric" is also the basis of Etro's fashion, and Etro's glamorous history and Marco De Vincenzo's past experience are presented in the menswear handed over in the new season.
Marco De Vincenzo highlights bold patterns and rich weaves in Etro's new collection, with 70s slender silhouettes in styling and tailoring, and a rugged style in loose knitted sweaters and long kilts. Another striking feature is the tuxedo trousers delicately embroidered with flowers at the waist, paired with a plaid shirt reminiscent of Etro's DNA. Marco De Vincenzo said, "When it comes to menswear, it only takes a few details to make a garment shine, and to turn a garment into an 'Etro' style is to put together a correct embroidery and print, it speaks for itself, it's a bit like magic." ”
It is worth mentioning that the lining hidden inside the garment is based on the most classic tartan fabric of Etro's early years, which brings private pleasure to the wearer while also highlighting understated luxury.
Sustainability is undoubtedly the core issue of the fashion industry in embracing the future in the past few years, and has continued to run through the material innovation, business model, user communication, and value shaping of many fashion luxury brands. Therefore, expressing optimism about the future in 2023 is even more inseparable from the keyword "sustainable", which is related to the well-being of all mankind.
At the Zegna 2023 Winter Fashion Show, guests experienced an important stage in the production of Oasi Cashmere fabrics. The cashmere fibres float and settle in the airbox, which is the key to their eventual transformation into a delicate fabric. The fabrics used in the Oasi Cashmere collection are made up of a process that is rarely seen in its unique craftsmanship.
Oasi Cashmere fabrics from Zegna's Winter 2023 collection create layers with thick textures, including double-sided jacquard malden, coated and uncoated treated terry, curly jacquard, felt, jersey, and brushed and needlepunched textiles. The new collection features #UseTheExistingTM fabrics with upcycled granite textures, including alpaca, cotton-blend corduroy and tactile wool twill.
Zegna's artistic director, Alessandro Sartori, has always been committed to injecting new meaning into Zegna's tailoring style through the ingenious fusion of function and shape, silhouette and texture, and the endless exploration of fabrics is at the heart of this vision. "Zegna gave me the unique opportunity to be involved in the entire process of fabric making, from the weaving process to the presentation of the final product. Empower production teams at every step to challenge conventions and explore new possibilities. This allows me to conceive silhouettes from the material selection stage, and then gradually move through the development process, ensuring that every step of the way is committed to innovation and excellence, and ultimately creating a diverse design style language. ”
The expression of masculinity is not a new creative language. But as 2023 begins, the issue of gender aesthetic diversity in terms of self-examination may also be called optimism in the face of a new journey. As Jonathan Anderson says, "This series is about intimacy, it's about family, it's about starting over." ”
For JW Anderson's fall/winter menswear collection, designer Jonathan Anderson redefines his classic design – frilled shorts.
As the brand's first return after three years away from menswear Sunday and the first fashion show since the departure of former creative director Alessandro Michele, Gucci, which kicked off Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023, pays homage to improvised self-expression – a wide and languid cut that makes menswear "improvisational", and the wearer can transform it into sleeveless jackets and short as they wish; Whether it is the structure or the overall silhouette, it comes from the tension inspired by traditional design, reflecting the freedom and uninhibited nature of contemporary masculinity.
Sportswear inspired by Gucci's archives from the '80s hides the code of dance, and the biker outfits in the collection pay homage to the brand's early 21st century archival work. Inspired by the same era, there are also distressed jeans, adorned with Gucci's original logo from 1953. It is worth mentioning that the new collection builds the prototype of the classic gentleman's wardrobe, redefined with an improvised subversive perspective on the basis of extremely luxurious craftsmanship. Inspired by the various roles played by the wearer, the garments express Gucci's multifaceted understanding of masculinity's instinctive seduction.
The Fendi Fall/Winter 2023 menswear collection has this backstory: Silvia Venturini Fendi lived in New York in the 80s, and when she worked at Bergdorf Goodman, Silvia Venturini Fendi would often wear a one-shoulder top under her clothes so she could dance at Studio 54 after work or go to the ice rink.
In this season's menswear fall/winter collection, it follows Fendi's classic subversive classicist gorgeous style, starting from the luxurious texture, blurring the boundaries between the toughness and elegance of traditional menswear. The asymmetrical and loose silhouette adds geometry and sportiness to menswear. WWD
Written by Editorial Office
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