D35 (2-1)C4 7450 m-Pinnacle 8163m-C47450m 2022-9-30
It was slowly dawning, everyone was half sitting and half lying down almost all night, I didn't fall asleep for a minute. In the morning, the wind did not lighten, Sherpa had already gotten up to boil water, and the breakfast brought over made him want to vomit, and there was no way to eat it at all. After 8 o'clock in the morning, I listened to Shandu Sherpa say to Hadron: The weather is good during the day, and the weather is no good at night, and my English level is the level of understanding yes and no.
When it was almost nine o'clock, Hadron spoke: ten minutes to prepare, ten minutes to set off and rush to the top!
Before departure, the equipment was sorted out, the prepared flag was ready, put it in the backpack, and only brought three bags of energy glue, a small piece of chocolate, two large white rabbits and a dozen almonds that did not stimulate the stomach. Whether to bring the mobile phone or not, this is a big problem, because it involves the problem of taking photos after climbing to the top, referring to yesterday's miserable example, even the mobile phone was not taken out, simply don't bring it, a bottle of hot water, a bottle of oxygen that has just been changed, a backpack is like this, and go.
I hadn't eaten for two days in a row, and I hadn't slept all night, but the horn to the top had already sounded, struggling to get dressed, I wanted to walk in front of the line, which might save my physical strength, but because wearing crampons was too slow, when it was sorted out, I found that the large army had walked out of tens of meters.
When I went out to the big slope, when I desperately walked up the big slope, the team was already more than 100 meters in front of me, and by the time the second slope came, the team was getting farther and farther away from me. What I remember is a particularly long gentle slope, and at the end is a large ice wall of several hundred meters almost vertical, and to the left of the top of the ice wall is the pointed second peak.
I had to catch up with them, at this time I took out a bag of energy glue, washed down with water, buried my head and began to walk, this big slope feels more than a kilometer, every four breaths take a step, I walked through this big slope in one breath, there was no stop in the middle, Sherpa behind me was far behind me, the mountain capital Sherpa in front was also about to be caught up by me, the team in the distance was all within 500 meters, slowly the slope turned to the vertical large ice wall, it is estimated that the energy glue lost its effectiveness, I took out another bag of energy glue, I don't know how far behind, I only ate 1/4 stingy, I will always keep a bag and take it out when the worst happens, at this time I began to regret why I didn't bring out all five bags of energy glue, maybe this time can play a decisive role.
I feel that these energy glues down, did not play any role, has begun to turn to the straight wall, first watching the wild man and the leader disappear at the top of the straight wall, then the piglet, seeing that the black eyes are also close to the top of the straight wall, I still have hundreds of steps of "steps" to go, don't look up, don't mess with breathing, take one step every eight breaths, take one step every ten breaths, the wild man and the leader rushed down: Come 💪 on, there is still an hour to go up, the wild man stuffed the flag into my arms, told me, don't forget to show the flag!
Looking at the dozens of steps in front of me, I couldn't climb it, and it repeatedly appeared in my mind: usually too little exercise, with less than two months of exercise, why do you climb it; I'm sitting at home basking in the sun and drinking tea; I'm now fishing leisurely with a fishing rod; I'm my age, I really shouldn't climb anymore, I'm half the physical condition and physical strength of a 25-year-old; In the sun I play my beloved classical guitar; I don't want any of my family to climb again...
The last teammate, Black Eyes, also rushed to the top to finish...
And the last ten steps, divided into twenty steps to climb, twelve breaths, one step, twelve breaths, two steps, twelve breaths, three steps...
16:40 When I finally climbed to the platform on my legs, I could no longer see the pointed second peak, and all I saw was the towering Manasru Zhen Top! The last part of the road, although there are twists and turns, but at the moment in my eyes there is only a very gentle road, not dangerous, not tired, not sad, not happy, no wind, the surrounding is very, very quiet, I feel that the whole mountain top seems to be built in a white garden around it, I really feel that the top of the mountain is an altar, I slowly walked over, fixed myself on the protection station, took off the breathing mask, unfolded the national flag...
