Author: Chen Buji
Choose Yi County! Was it an accident or a deliberate plan?
Tell us about this trip
There is always one or two winds in the world that fill my 108,000 dreams. Every encounter on the way to travel is like an accident, but also like a long-planned arrangement, keep a heart of expectation, to face every encounter, this is my greatest enthusiasm!
In the summer travel plan, it should be to hug the sea, step on the waves and beach, and watch a beautiful sunrise or sunset by the sea. However, during the turn of the high-speed rail station, I decided to leave for southern Anhui for a summer time of "Chen Jilang".
Huangshan is no stranger to me, Yixian has been to many times, but each time it is like opening a brand new book, it must only bring me shock and amazement, this time too.
The ancient city of Yixian County
In the headphones, Jay Chou's "Blue and White Porcelain" suddenly sounded, that sentence "Azure and other smoke and rain, and I am waiting for you, but the cooking smoke rises, across the river for thousands of miles." It was like instantly opening up all my fantasies about Yixian County, and also allowing me to see the "greatest work" left by Huangshan to the world!
Trip planning
Yi
Traveling in Yixian doesn't seem to require a specific itinerary planning, because the scenery everywhere can catch your eye, if you have enough time, I hope you don't miss every part of it, the following itinerary may take you three days to complete it little by little!
DAY1: Huangshan North Railway Station - Mukeng Zhuhai - Hongcun
DAY2: Shuimo Meixi - Lu Village - Ping Shan - Xidi
DAY3: Xidi - Peach Blossom Garden Rafting - Shou Humble Garden - Return
Chen Jiro's summer time
I never thought I'd clock somewhere because of a clip on film, but I did.
"How can someone my age ever watch a movie as old as Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon?" This is what many people will say when they come to Yixian to play, to be honest, I have not seen it, let alone other film and television works such as "Ju Dou" and "Hitchhiking", but in Yixian County, this film was successfully used by Amway, so I brushed this film overnight in the past few days of traveling in Yixian County.
Macro Village
West Delivery
Wooden pit bamboo sea
About Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon
The movie "Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon" is a martial arts action film directed by Ang Lee and co-starring Chow Yun Fat, Yang Ziqiong and Zhang Ziyi. The film was released on July 8, 2000 in Chinese mainland. In 2001, director Ang Lee went to the Oscars with "Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon", won ten nominations, and finally won four awards such as best foreign language film, bringing Chinese films into a new realm of word-of-mouth and setting off a new wave of martial arts films in the film industry.
After reading it, I felt that the original jianghu was not only hot blood and pride, but also the purity in the red dust, even Li Mubai and Yu Jiaolong could not escape the chivalrous tenderness in the jianghu. If you're planning to go to Yixian County, I suggest you make sure to brush up on this movie ahead of time, as you'll be naturally substituted for it during your trip.
Mukeng Zhuhai | The deep wind of the blue sea forest is long
Wooden pit bamboo sea
I once went to Hongcun village for the "small bridge and flowing water people's home", but I did not come to Mukeng Zhuhai; I once came to Tachuan in October to see the most beautiful autumn colors in China, but I still didn't come to Mukeng Bamboo Sea... Several times passed by, perhaps for the best encounter this time.
Wooden pit bamboo sea
As soon as you enter the scenic spot, you can hear the sound of the summer wind and the birds singing in the mountains and forests. The shade of the bamboo sea makes the sun become gentle here, and through the pavilion, this blue pond at the foot of the mountain looks deeper under the lush bamboo sea, like a huge emerald embedded in the mountain. The bamboo raft above the jade, Xu is waiting for someone to be related, quietly and quietly.
Wooden pit bamboo sea
Wooden pit bamboo sea
Wooden pit bamboo sea
Along the bamboo forest, you can see the stone stele with the inscription "Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon", and the vigorous characters tell the chivalrous tenderness of this valley. Through the forest, across the small bridge, past the gazebo, the hundred bamboo garden. Under the bamboo sea, I like to walk in the mountains, step on the stone steps and go up the trend, full of green as if the world is separated. I probably understand Li Bai's "green bamboo into the path, green lotus whisks clothes" look back.
Wooden pit bamboo sea
Wooden pit bamboo sea
Wooden pit bamboo sea
Wooden pit bamboo sea
Wooden pit bamboo sea
Through the heavy bamboo forest, you will be greeted by an oversized bamboo chair, nestled in a tea garden, backed by green mountains, as if telling the mystery of the open, charming and long place.
Wooden pit bamboo sea
On the way to the top of the mountain, there are homestays and restaurants owned by local residents, so if time permits, staying here for a night or stopping for a meal is also a different experience.
Wooden pit bamboo sea
Wooden pit bamboo sea
Ascend to the observation deck, looking at the houses and houses halfway up the mountainside, the height of the Huipai buildings are covered by bamboo forests, they are the indigenous people who are hidden here, living a fairy life that is not disturbed by the world, pushing the door is the breeze and bamboo forest between the mountains, and dreaming is the symphony of nature. When you really walk into the Mukeng Bamboo Sea, you will definitely understand why Director Ang Lee will shoot here, because the bamboo sea under the blue sky, the wind is leisurely, the birds are singing, and the bamboo in the mountains and fields is dancing with the wind, carrying the jianghu feelings of Li Mubai and Yu Jiaolong, and also carrying the natural joy of exile in the mountains and forests.
Wooden pit bamboo sea
Wooden pit bamboo sea
Wooden pit bamboo sea
Macro Village
Hongcun | The most is the Jiangnan rhyme full of lotus ponds
Hongcun Scenic Area
"Expanded into Taiyi Elephant, so the beauty of Hongcun", when Yixian is mentioned, the destination of the navigation positioning will automatically be marked with the name of "Hongcun", he is like the core of Yixian County, people who come and go will come here to ferry, and see the prosperous beauty of the ancient village in southern Anhui.
Macro Village
Hongcun is just like the Jiangnan woman in her memory, she wrote all the images of "small bridges and flowing water people" with water. Stop by the South Lake, overlooking the Huipai buildings in the distance, there is a lotus pond in front of the door, and there are green mountains in the back, and the feng shui metaphysics of the mountains and rivers tells the faith of the Huizhou people.
Macro Village
Macro Village
Macro Village
The lotus flowers on the south lake of Hongcun are the most moving portrayal of here in summer, once people said that they would go to the West Lake to admire the lotus, but they did not know that they encountered a summer flower-like splendor in front of the Huipai houses in southern Anhui, which was more like moving the ink Jiangnan into reality.
Macro Village
Macro Village
I can't remember the first time I came to Hongcun, but every time I came, I would still be confused by the winding alleys in the village. But it is also these confusing alleys that surround my love for Hongcun and can't walk out.
Macro Village
Macro Village
Huan Ji is not far from the creek, and there is a clear spring in front of the house. The gentleness of Hongcun is connected by water, this cattle-shaped village, the water in the village is twisted and bent, through the hall through the house. In the lunar swamp sedimentation swirling, this is the ancient Huizhou people hidden thousands of years of wisdom.
Macro Village
Macro Village
The profundity of Hongcun is like opening a "Wang Family" family tree, and in front of the Wang Clan Ancestral Hall, Mu Enrong, with the three sculptures of the Hui Sect, can see the subtleties of the Qiong Lou of the Years.
Macro Village
When you calm down and wander around Hongcun, from day to night, walk through the bustling street market, walk through the quiet and empty alleys... On the night of summer time, listening to the sound of frogs in Hongcun, enjoying the comfort of a long time, planting the seeds of the story in time, I and its various things must be left at the Hongcun Post Office to send to the future, written to the next goodbye in the distance...
Macro Village
Macro Village
Hongcun Post Office
Ink Mei Creek | The water on the side of the boat is stacked around the mountain
Ink Beauty Creek
Yixian is a place you don't want to leave when you come, and I've been thinking that if you really want to choose a place in Anhui to end up old, it must be Huangshan! Finally, in Yixian County, I found this spiritual place that allowed me to "choose a city to grow old and meet a person with a white head", that is, "Ink Beauty Creek".
Ink Beauty Creek
From Hongcun to Shuimo Meixi Scenic Area, the navigation time is 1.5h long, but the reality is not so, nearly 2h time, through the rugged mountain road, up and down the mountain, to reach the location of the navigation instructions. I thought I had come to the wrong place for a while, and it wasn't until I went down the steps and saw the view across the river that I let go of all my hesitations.
Ink Beauty Creek
Ink Beauty Creek
The beauty of huangshan mountain and water has never disappointed people, the mountain in Yixian is "Heiduo Mountain", the water in Yixian County is "jade water", when the blue sky meets the white clouds, when the green mountains meet the green water, that is the appearance of the Ink MeiXi. To reach the other side of the river, you need to rely on the scenic staff to support the bamboo raft to reach.
Ink Beauty Creek
Ink Beauty Creek
Wandering and blue waves, green mountains look for sounds, and flowing water should always be there. Sitting on a bamboo raft, rafting with the water for an hour, it is like being on the "Li River", fantasizing that you are a chivalrous guest walking on the rivers and lakes, walking alone on the river, admiring the breeze alone.
Ink Beauty Creek
Ink Beauty Creek
When the bamboo raft goes downstream, the river becomes shallow, try to take off your shoes and socks, put your feet into the water, the coolness of the mountain spring completely offsets the heat of wading through the mountains, splashing on the shoals, and the joy of summer, here is the most suitable.
Ink Beauty Creek
Ink Beauty Creek
Ping Shan | The freehand painting screen of the moon is endless
Ping Shan Village
The ancient villages of southern Anhui have been the white moonlight in the hearts of painters since ancient times, and the scenes in those ink paintings have become a reality here. There are many students and artists who come here every year to sketch, and what is hidden here is not only the architectural beauty of ancient Huizhou, but also the oriental aesthetics in the hearts of countless people.
Ping Shan Village
Ping Shan Village
Ping Shan, this thousand-year-old village, her name comes from the fact that there is a high mountain in the north of the village that looks like a screen. The Qing Dynasty poet Yu Fengchen wrote a poem when he was touring Ping Shan: The green mountains are listed on the screen, and the rain is dripping with greenery. Autumn leaves are more spring flowers, and they are covered like brocade. Indeed, Pingfeng Mountain is a beautiful four-hour Brocade, setting off the Village of Ping Shan with countless ancient houses of the Huipai.
Ping Shan Village
Ping Shan is also known as the Painter's Village, and the biggest impression in the village is that there are many shops here that sell "painting materials" and homestay restaurants for sketching. So here you can see many groups of sketching students in front of and behind the house, who use their brushes to outline the beauty of Ping Shan and also outline the blueprint of the future world.
A Jiyang Creek, nine curves and ten bends, passes through the village, and the stone pounds on both sides of the river fly from time to time to the hammer sound of the village women washing, and the white flowers of the water storage stone pounds splash; The ancestral hall of the green brick and gray tile house and the shops in the front and back shops are built between the banks, and more than ten stone bridges with different characteristics span the creek, forming the unique charm of Jiangnan Water Town.
Ancient Huizhou people like to live in groups with the same surname, and Ping Shan is the place where the Shu family lives, and the exquisite degree of several ancestral hall gate towers in the village is exquisite, and the carved characters and animals are vivid and have extraordinary meanings.
Some villages in ancient Huizhou, it is good to look at it quietly, maybe it does not need the noise brought by traffic, and it is also a scenery to leave this quiet alone.
Ping Shan Village
Lu village | Smoke and rain Huizhou Mo asked the breeze
Lu Village
Huangshan weather has never been a law, one second clear sky, the next second may be stormy, I thought that this trip to Lu Village may be canceled directly back to the hotel, did not expect to sit in the car for a while, the rain miraculously stopped, but this rain stopped late, but also let me miss the highlight of Lu Village - wood carving building.
Lu Village
When you encounter a heavy rain in Yixian County, don't lose any interest in traveling, because Yixian becomes Huizhou as soon as it rains, and although it is not the season when smoke and rain enter Jiangnan, after this rain, it evokes a mist of green mountains and recolors the color plate of the world.
"Sky blue and other smoke and rain, and I am waiting for you" is the romance of Jiangnan, and the mountain color and empty rain are also strange is the hospitality of Yixian County after the rain.
Lu Village
Lu Cun gave me an impression very similar to Ping Shan, and at one point I felt like I had entered the cycle of "Beginnings". If you compare these ancient villages, there will be similarities, but careful taste has a different charm, the charm of Lu Village is in that famous wood carving building, it is the best of the Huipai wood carving art, by the master at that time hired two craftsmen to spend 20 years fine carving, known as; Huizhou wood carving on the first floor. But this trip is very regrettable, did not see the true appearance of the wood carving building, can only be put on the next trip.
Lu Village
Half of the ancient villages in southern Anhui are steeped in history and half are full of charm. As you wander around Lu Village, there is less commercial atmosphere around you, and more of a warm feeling among the locals. You will see them holding rice bowls, sitting around together, talking about homely food, eating short, and leaving the simplicity and kindness of their neighbors to the years.
There is running water in front of the house and a vegetable garden behind the house. Such a rural scene has appeared in everyone's memory, at least in the minds of the 80s and 90s has been flashing, we yearn for rural rural residences, but also for the carefree of the past.
Lu Village
Lu Village, surrounded by clouds and fog, became more beautiful after being washed by heavy rain, the distant green mountains were obscured by clouds, the village was built along the river, and the locals spoke short of parents, watching the leisurely evening of the ancient village, Lu Village opened the first stop of smoke and rain Huizhou.
Xidi | Day into the green mountains and night talk endlessly
West Delivery
Some people say that Xidi and Hongcun choose one of them to play, and I thought so before, but this trip made me suddenly feel that Xidi and Hongcun are yixian can not be less.
West Delivery
After the rain, Xidi ushered in the first bloom of the sunset, chasing the sunset all the way, from Lu Village to Xidi, afraid of missing the beautiful sunset of Xidi. I like the appearance of the ancient village in southern Anhui province breaking through the clouds and mist in the lofty mountains, which is hidden between heaven and earth, bringing together the aura of nature into a regional culture, and bursting out poetically in Xidi.
At night, Xidi is like being opened to an exotic country, following the sound of music, watching a water curtain movie performance in the square, telling the past and present lives of Xidi between light and shadow, the music fountain in front of the village soaring into the sky, changing its appearance in different forms, it dances with song, making the form of water and the night of the ancient village become interesting.
Waking up in Xidi is a very happy thing, pushing open the window is the thickness of the horse's head wall, raining Xidi, but full of the smell of "Rain Alley", "holding up the oil-paper umbrella, met a lilac-like girl ..." The rain in Huizhou, no matter how big it is here, seems to become very gentle, listen to a rain in Xidi, here is the China Ming and Qing Dynasty Folk House Museum, which preserves more than 300 ancient houses of the Ming and Qing dynasties; In Xidi, I realized the beauty of a Hui school architecture, looked at the Four Waters Guiming Hall in the Jing'ai Hall, looked up at the embroidery building in the Doctor's Hall, and looked at the window eaves dripping rain carving beam painting building in the East and West Garden...
Xidi in the rain is like a wash full of mud, the mountains are green, the room is also bright, and even the lotus pond in front of the house is more bright and moving...
At the entrance of xidi village, there is a large lotus pond, and there is a walking path for tourists to walk in the lotus pond, which is like "mistakenly entering the depths of the lotus flower", and getting close to the lotus pond!
The time spent in Xidi is always very beautiful, slow down to go to the Xidi post office to renew a cup of hand-brewed coffee, write a letter to the future, look forward to receiving gifts in the coming day, and also look back at today's beauty.
Nanping | Forget about the lingering spring mountains
Nanping Scenic Area
In the many introductions of Yixian County, Nanping is defined as "China Film and Television Village", which has been filmed by many movies and is also a shooting venue for many variety shows and TV series, but the antique Nanping is not only blessed with these traffic, the original charm of the village is enough to make you fall for it.
South Screen
I once came to Nanping in the spring, saw the canola flowers blooming all over the village, this time it is the summer reunion with him, walking in the village, the labyrinthine streets and alleys let me take a lot of back roads, but every mistake seems to be worth it, because it also involves its iterative charm around the bends.
"Ju Dou" this movie restores the feudal ideas in the countryside of Huizhou in that era, and also substitutes the shadow of Nanping into everyone's mind, where the ancient ancestral halls are lined up, telling the generations of the Ye clan, Nanping still retains 8 ancestral halls, the largest of which is the Xu rank hall, which was built in the Ming Chenghua period, with a history of more than 530 years. It is a magnificent building supported by 54 thick columns, and 80% of the pictures in "Ju Dou" were filmed here, and posters of the movie can still be seen on both sides in the ancestral hall.
What is different from other ancient villages in Nanping is that when you step into this place, you will be substituted into the ancient and traditional feudal stories, and you will be immersed in it to lament the fate of the Huizhou women of the era of "Ju Dou". In the ancestral hall, this is also the old Yang family dyeing workshop in the movie, a few feet of colored cloth hanging in the patio, like a "hope" falling from the sky, which connects the vision of light and the desire to break the traditional feudal thought.
Nanping makes the story prototype come to reality, so that this quiet ancient village retains the original ancient and mysterious, so that every step is like looking for the shadow in the ancient books, feeling the flow of ancient Huizhou.
Tao Yuanming's former residence, Shou Humble Garden, | Embrace the humble paradise
Keep the Humble Garden
If I hadn't seen it with my own eyes, I probably didn't believe that Yixian after the rain could be beautiful like this, the green mountains carry clouds and mist, looming, under the white clouds are green tiles and white walls, Tiangong painted with this, a natural ink treasure is presented in front of the eyes, and the veritable peach blossom source is displayed to the fullest.
Following Tao Yuanming's footsteps, I met 10,000 kinds of yearnings in Tao Yuanming's former residence and Shou Humble Garden in Yixian County. Here is Tao Yuanming's paradise, the name is from the wilderness of the south, shou humble return to the garden.
Keep the Humble Garden
Compared with many emblem gardens, Shou Humble Garden can really make people who meet it for the first time amazing for a long time, the towering "Shou Humble Garden Arch" will instantly pull you back to the past time and space, step into the scenic area "Peach Blossom Garden" large stone inscription reminds you of the peach blossom source in your heart, winding paths, through the arch is a sudden cheerful, 12 acres of boundless sky pool like a mirror, reflecting the mountains, mountains covered with clouds, coming to the face. Shou Humble Garden has restored shou humble garden, Wenchang Pavilion, Xinyuan ziyuan ancient plaque, peach blossom source poem inscription, Guiyuan Tianju poetry inscription, peach blossom garden cultural center, residence exhibition hall, Tao ancestral hall, Five Willow Hall, Juxian hall, Tao Gong Pavilion, etc., reproducing the production and life scenes in Tao Yuanming's "Peach Blossom Origin", reflecting the profound connotation of Peach Blossom Source culture.
"Yi" is delicious as always
Yixian cuisine
Stepping into the boundary of Huangshan Mountain, the tip of the nose has channeled the fragrance of "Hui cuisine", known as one of the top ten famous dishes in China, Hui cuisine, most people think that Hui cuisine is heavy in oil and heavy color, in fact, the uniqueness of Hui cuisine lies in "heavy taste", heavy taste is not heavy taste, but in the cooking of dishes on the taste of the modulation, people in the process of making more initiative, according to people's preferences to adjust.
Emblem dish
Emblem dish three musketeers
Of course, how can you eat Hui cuisine less than hui cuisine three musketeers, each of which is the "signature dish" of major restaurants, so you don't have to worry about coming to Huangshan Don't know how to order!
【Stinky Mandarin Fish | Super A's Emblem Dish Double Standard】
Mention of Hui cuisine, the mind immediately popped out of the big name of "stinky mandarin fish", eating stinky mandarin fish in Huangshan, there are generally two kinds, there are whole roasted, there are also cut pieces of roast, you can try each one. The whole strip will be cut into pieces to lighten the taste. Stinky mandarin fish can be described as a double standard certification of emblem dishes, and people who like it have endless memories of their food, and those who don't like it avoid three points. It is these two situations that make the stinky mandarin fish controversial in China's gastronomic list.
Stinky mandarin fish
【Edamame tofu | strange taste snack】
"Japanese snack edamame tofu, do not quit being a Huizhou person." Use "strange" to describe the edamame tofu is no better, it is known as the first monster of Hui cuisine, because the appearance is full of "white hair" like the fungus and named, the most authentic way of cooking, fried in oil until golden on all sides, garnished with some chili sauce, has been excellent flavor, in ancient Huizhou Edamame tofu eating method also has its own points, you can use ham steaming, you can also braised edamame tofu, of course, no matter which way, the taste of edamame tofu is still full of "strange", strange in it has the soft sponge of curd milk, there is also the original taste of tofu, so it seems to be "strange in the strange taste" Edamame tofu is also a delicious snack not to be missed.
Edamame tofu
【Pickled Tuk fresh | first salty experience】
If you don't like to eat bamboo shoots, then I advise you not to come to Yixian County, because Yixian bamboo shoots really grow on the "extremely fresh taste", and every bite is very fresh, as if it has been eaten throughout the spring. The people in the mountains rely on the mountains to eat the mountains, so the black mountains covered with bamboo forests have also given the people of Yixian an excellent gift. A pickled dish neutralizes the umami taste of bamboo shoots with the salty taste of ham, and the first layer of the entrance is the aftertaste of bamboo shoots, and the second layer is the salty aroma of ham.
Pickled tuk tuk fresh
Conclusion: Huizhou's obsession is always echoing
Life is long, always have to go to Huizhou, the next time Jiangnan, warblers and birds chirping, willow wind habits, the obsession with Yixian is to come with expectations and regrets every time, looking forward to turning into a person in the painting, with the sky as the cover of the land; Unfortunately, the short encounter did not want to leave, failed to see it all, and did not finish it.
Hongcun, Yixian County
I don't know when the next meeting will be
After all, the places that people go to repeatedly in this life must have fate
Because the mountains, south, water, and north are one color, the human world is also fresh.
On the way to Yixian County
I kept wondering what the obsession with leaving this time would be
It wasn't until the last day of the trip that I suddenly realized
This time, the obsession is "When you come, you don't want to leave..."