Day48 (5.19) Baga Township A board house - Tarchin 12.8 km (Tarchin - Zhere Temple 22 km on foot)
[The 219 "1314" road monument full of graffiti, met two sisters turning the mountain together, Déjà vu but completely unknown Longda, Zhere Temple accommodation... 】
Get up at 8 a.m., which is relatively early. Because I planned to get to Tarchin early, I went straight to the mountain. Nearly 9 o'clock, departure. I have always been worried about the tire problem, afraid of another big problem on the road, so I ride relatively fast. About half an hour, to a famous road monument - the 1314th kilometer of national highway 219, has a special significance. Other national highways also have 1314 km of road monuments, but this one should be the most famous. Not only does "1314" mean "once in a lifetime", but the number 219 of the national highway also means "love for a long time". This road sign is larger, wider and thicker than usual. The base of the roadpost is wrapped around the white Hatta, and the roadstone is full of all kinds of things, including names, declarations, graffiti, and so on.
National Highway 219 "1314" road monument and the white pointed Kailash in the distance
Say goodbye to the "Monument of Love" and enter the fork in the road of Tarchin Village, which is the entrance to the Kailash Scenic Area. A man came out of the little house on the side of the road and asked me what to do. The road was blocked, and I could only stop and say to turn the mountain. The man said he was going to buy a ticket. It didn't look too much like a ticket office, at least it wasn't too formal, and there was a car in front of me, and I said how the car didn't buy a ticket. The man said you don't care. At this time, I suddenly remembered that someone had reminded me that you could go directly in here as long as you said that it was accommodation. So I said, go in and stay. The man seemed a little angry, as if warning to me, you said to go to the accommodation, if you turn the mountain, wait. However, he did not insist that I buy a ticket, and reluctantly let me in.
Get on the bike and head in the direction of Kailash. However, because I had just told a lie, I was a little too unwilling to go, after all, the sacred mountain was right in front of me. In the highlands where everything has spirituality, it is always very careful. Perhaps because of this lie, two days later he was "punished" by The Sacred Mountain.
Soon, the tire pressure was obviously insufficient, and the body shook from side to side. After a while, two pedestrians with backpacks appeared in front of them and got out of the car to talk to them. They were going to go to the mountain, and one of the guys in his 30s brought a lot of stuff that he could put in my car. This brother has turned the mountain more than once, and this time he is ready to turn in a small circle, that is, to turn inward. Generally, the mountain refers to the large circle of the mountain, the whole journey is more than 50 kilometers, that is, the outward turn. The small circle has a short journey, but the altitude is relatively higher. Another woman in her 40s is ready to find a porter tomorrow to take her around the mountain. The porter is a person who specializes in helping people who turn the mountain to carry things, and is also a guide, generally for a higher fee. During the chat, they were asked if they had bought a ticket at the entrance. The answer was no, so that my uneasy self-condemnation was slightly lighter.
When he was about to enter Tarchin, the Guangzhou brother caught up and did not buy a ticket. Entering the village, the brothers bid farewell first, because someone was receiving. The lady followed us to find a place to eat and stay. Finding a restaurant to stay in, my brother and I prepared dinner and went to the mountain. During the meal, the owner introduced us to some information about the situation and precautions about turning the mountain. But basically nothing is remembered, and even if it is remembered, it will be forgotten immediately, because the heart has already flown to the sacred mountain. After dinner, I went to the street to buy some cakes, twenty barley cakes and twenty white-faced pancakes. I really don't know how much satisfaction the pie has brought me along the way. This was true before and even more so after.
When my brother and I pushed the car into the courtyard of the hotel, two girls with backpacks came over and asked if we were going to go to the mountain. It turned out that they were also going to turn the mountain, and let us wait for them for a while, and then they would leave after eating. We first went to pack up our things, sorted out our backpacks, and loaded them with the items we needed to make the way up the mountain. In fact, I don't know what to bring, so I need to pack a lot of unnecessary things. After finishing up, I went back to the hotel to wait for the two sisters.
At about 12 o'clock, our four-man squad set off in full gear. One of the two sisters opened an inn in Lhasa, rich outdoor experience, once turned to the sacred mountain, this time with a girlfriend, that is, another sister, from Beijing, without any outdoor experience, the first hike. When I learned that my Guangzhou brother and I were both post-90s, the two sisters actually did not believe it, although they were not much older than us. Perhaps from the faces of the two of us that have long been "weathered", there is no trace of belonging to the post-90s. But one thing the four of us are the same, that is, we didn't buy a ticket. Lhasa sister said that there is a ticket check, if you encounter it, you can also make up the ticket.
On the way, Sister Lhasa introduced some of the situation of turning the mountain in more detail, after all, she was the only one of the four of us who turned the sacred mountain. Before leaving the village, the two sisters wanted to buy Longda. Ronda? What is it? The first time I heard of it, it sounded very domineering, and I thought it was a kind of hallow or something. But when I saw the square pieces of paper with strange patterns printed on them, I felt so familiar. If you think about it, you sometimes see prayer flags hanging on the mountain pass on the road, but you don't know what it is at the time. Both the saronda and the prayer flag are a way of blessing for the Tibetan people, but the dragon is not as famous as the prayer flag.
After leaving the village, start a real mountain turning tour. The mountain, as the name suggests, is a walk around the sacred mountain of Kailash, and of course, many are on their knees to complete the pilgrimage. Kailash is the first sacred mountain in Tibet, considered by Tibetan Buddhism, Hinduism and Tibetan Bon to be the center of the world, and legend has it that Mount Meru in Buddhism is Kailash. This shows Kailash's sacredness and supremacy in religion. Some people make a pilgrimage to the sacred mountain once in their lives, and the belief of giving up their lives and forgetting themselves is incomprehensible to many people. Like us, at least for myself, we just turn the mountain with the most superficial so-called beliefs and a little bit of curiosity. Buddhism and Hinduism turn the mountain clockwise, and Bon is counterclockwise. We choose clockwise, which is also the direction chosen by most non-religious mountain turners.
The journey to the mountains is actually very difficult, but because of this, it is loved by many outdoor hikers. Many people just turn the mountain with joy in challenge and conquest, but when they see those pilgrims who kneel step by step, will there be a ripple of tremor in their hearts?
In the afternoon, the weather was very good, and the two sisters were very interested and kept taking pictures. My brother and I walked and talked faster, and every once in a while the two sisters would be left behind by a distance, and we had to stop and wait for them. Many times I wanted to leave them alone, too slow, not to mention that we had just met, and we couldn't talk about getting to know each other. But on second thought, after all, they set off together, there is no reason to leave it alone, and it is normal for girls to walk slowly. I remembered the little brother's sentence "Everything is arranged", but I don't know what will happen later.
Kailash on the side
Although the speed slowed down, it was more fully integrated into the environment of the mountain. No longer just walking, full of curiosity and yearning for everything around him, from time to time I want to climb the slopes on both sides to find out. Thoughts have long since left the body and soared freely in mid-air.
Buildings on steep cliffs
There were very few pedestrians on the road, and apart from a group of kneeling pilgrims, there were only a few people who turned the mountain occasionally. Maybe our time is just staggered by the peak of the flow of people, and there are not many people turning the mountain at noon. Most people choose to leave in the morning, especially if they want to complete the mountain turn in one day, they must leave very early. We were ready to finish in two days, so there was no need to rush it.
Stop and go waiting for the two sisters behind. When my brother and I talked intently about a topic for a long time, I remembered to stop and wait for someone, but I couldn't see any figure when I looked back. At first it was always in the valley west of Kailash, and my brother and I stopped at the northwest corner of the entire mountain route, and from here we turned into the north of Kailash, and the hiking direction changed from north to east. I waited for about 20 minutes and never saw anyone appear. Soon the wind rises, the wind in the east-west direction, sitting and waiting, you have to accept the wind and "baptize", and going forward is the tailwind. So we decided not to wait any longer and move on. A little bit of the idea of wanting to "abandon" them.
Thick snow and ice on the river
The little brother walked while constantly looking for fun. The river next to it was covered with thick snow, so we stood on it to see if we could withstand it. Underneath the thick snow is a thick layer of ice, and beneath the thick layer of ice is a babbling stream of water that is crystal clear to the bottom. Sometimes we don't follow the usual route, but "find another way" and walk from a relatively higher slope, or climb the hillside to look at it.
Kailash on the back
Of course I've been looking forward to the possibility of somewhere to stay. I learned from the introduction of others that there is a Zhere Monastery behind Kailash, and there is a place to stay next to the Zhere Temple. Sister Lhasa also said that there is a hotel behind the mountain, but because it is not the peak season, I don't know if it is open. At about 7 o'clock, I saw that there was a complex of buildings not far from the other side of the river, red and white, which should be Zhere Temple. But because it is separated by a river, it is impossible to pass. There was a small bridge on the stream before, but the route was unknown and did not dare to cross the bridge, but continued to walk along the side of the river near the mountain.
Encounter the horses, as well as the Zhere Temple not far behind
Slowly walking forward, I soon found that there was a yard not far in front of me, and there was a sign indicating a hotel. At this time, a very simple bridge appeared on the river, made of wooden planks. First go to the guesthouse to inquire, in business, but the price is a bit high. For my brother and I, who can sleep anywhere, it is indeed a bit unbearable and too wasteful. So we sat on the big rock outside the hotel and discussed. I didn't expect to stop, only to really feel how strong the wind was, and it was colder. I wanted to take a break, but what followed was a sudden exhaustion, as if my body was exhausted in that instant, and I didn't want to move a step. The status of the little brother is not much the same as mine.
But now someone has to go to the Zhere Temple on the other side of the river to check the situation, and there is no place to stay. The little brother asked me to go, and he was waiting here. Well, who makes my physical fitness look a little better. Along the way, from time to time, he will tease the little brother, and sometimes deliberately go faster, so that the little brother is in a catch-up mode. In fact, the physical exertion of the two of us is similar, but the excitement of unfamiliar places can always bring extra motivation to ourselves. This is true of the turning mountain, and the same is true of the Zhere Temple on the other side. Although it is very tired, the whole body and brain are always in a very active state.
Stepping on the not-so-smooth little wooden bridge past, there are several tents and a few houses in front of the Zhere Temple. First looked at the tent, which had beds and quilts, and there were about five or six beds in a tent. Entering the room again, a large living room, which should be the living room or the hall, with many beds and tables. While shouting people, I patrolled for a while before someone came out. Instructions wanted to stay and the price was totally affordable. Came out, went back to the other side, explained the situation with the little brother, and happily decided to live there.
The lobby of our accommodation
Go back to the hall again with the little brother and clean up a little. As for the cleanliness of the bed and quilt, it is not so concerned, in such a high altitude, high cold place, bacteria and viruses are not so easy to survive. After checking in, I remembered that my two sisters had not appeared, and I didn't know where it was. So I decided to go back to them. Say hello to the little brother and go out alone. Going back was windy, it was cold, and my cold gear was the worst. The younger brother has several warm clothes, and the two sisters wear down jackets.
Some way back, I first saw Lhasa's sister lying on a rock looking for an angle to shoot Kailash. Around the temple is the direct and back of Kailash, the whole view and view is the best, and the best photo is also the best. Sister Lhasa's physical fitness is not bad, after all, there are many outdoor experiences. The Beijing sister's physical fitness is much worse, completely lagging behind and far behind. After walking back for a while, I saw My Sister Beijing, her whole body stiff, her steps mechanically repeated, and her voice weak. I took my sister's backpack from Beijing and carried it on my back and walked slowly with her.
Arrived at the hotel just now, the price is indeed a bit high, Lhasa sister and the boss bargained, after all, she also opened the inn. But the boss has a unique advantage and does not give any room for maneuver. The last two sisters decided to stay in the hotel, after all, the conditions here are much better than the Zhere Temple on the other side of the river, and it is relatively safe and convenient. Make an appointment to leave together tomorrow morning. They wanted to go early, but it was too difficult for someone like me who was used to waking up naturally. Lhasa sister said that today's weather is very good, tomorrow morning there is a high probability of seeing the "Rizhao Golden Mountain" landscape. In the end, we compromised a bit, but it was still a little early for me and I wasn't sure if I could leave tomorrow as agreed.
Before crossing the river, let them call at any time if there is something to do. Because there were only two of them staying at the hotel at the time, I didn't see any other tourists, at least until I left. Back at Zhere Temple, he began to eat and lay down on the bed at 10 o'clock in the evening. In recent days, the night is basically more than 11 o'clock, 12 o'clock to sleep, 10 o'clock is relatively early. The first time I hiked such a long distance, it was also my first outdoor hike, and I was indeed a little tired. There was no electricity in the room, and the guy asked the boss to charge it. After a while, the brother came back and asked me if I ate Tibetan noodles, and the boss invited us to eat. Lying down, too lazy to get up, just give up. After a long time, I waited until the little brother returned, and then I went to sleep in a blur of consciousness.