Last week in the red and black list, I wrote about the female star style of this Oscar.
Maggie Gyllenhaal, who wears Schiaparelli's Spring/Summer 2022 couture collection, became the "Best Dress" candidate on the Oscar red carpet.
About the Brand Schiaparelli, we wrote about it some time ago. The overall style is mixed, and everyone in the comment area has different views on this style.
Indeed, Schiaparelli's style is quite different from the more well-worn big-name ready-to-wear collections in general.
In recent years, it has been very popular with the world's top actresses.
Lady Gaga wore Schiaparelli to bring a performance at the presidential inauguration ceremony.
The classic color scheme of red and blue + the golden peace dove on the chest, solemn and not lacking tension.
Cardi B, who attended the national AMA, even wore a golden mask to directly "seal the gods on the red carpet".
On our domestic side, the "market" has also risen all the way.
Zhou Xun wore it on the cover of Jia Ren and Bazaar.
Also a Jia ren magazine, Shu Qi also wore a high-end "flower skirt" from the same series.
Yang Mi's "opening annual magazine" of Bazaar this year, just like their family's couture skirt, appeared.
The aura has increased to many.
There are also many examples of design and beauty on the same line.
For example, Liu Yifei's red carpet is a turmeric gauze skirt from Schiaparelli's Fall/Winter 2017 couture collection.
In the static photo and live GIF, the temperament of the immortal is still the same.
The yellow itself also lifted her complexion.
Liu Shishi's cover of this magazine is also a good shot.
It is quite different from the impression she gave before, and there is a high sense of "no one to approach".
In our previous red and black column, we can often see Schiaparelli's figure.
For example, Bella's "golden lung lobe" dress on the red carpet in Cannes last year:
The twig necklace on the chest, all made by Schiaparelli's craftsmen in Paris.
It also covers Swarovski crystals.
There is also Wu Xuanyi's "fiasco" of the beaver.
The deductive threshold is high.
Because their fashion, rather than practicality, emphasizes the art of design and imagination.
Schiaparelli 2022SS Couture Series
Even many times the works make everyone a little confused atmosphere.
Other times, unlike the ordinary concept of "fashion", Schiaparelli deserves to be treated as a work of art.
From the perspective of whether it is good or not, there are opinions, after all, the aesthetic is different.
But from the perspective of creative concept, their family is always the most avant-garde pioneer and rush ahead.
Whether it was the earliest Miss Schiaparelli or the current Daniel, their design philosophy is absolutely innovative and sparkling.
The woman who put on the Schiaparelli must be the most dazzling one in the whole scene.
This in itself is also in line with the personal style of the brand's founder, Elsa Schiaparelli, and his life experience.
Old photo of Elsa Schiaparelli
She was born with a high talent in the field of art.
In addition to the Schiaparelli brand, there is also a very famous label: Ms. Coco Chanel's "nemesis".
Old photo of Coco Chanel
How famous Ms. Chanel is in the fashion industry, needless to say, right?
The woman who can make her jealous is not an idle person.
In the 1930s, Ms. Coco moved from Europe to Hollywood, but she found that the superstars of the time did not eat her "simple style" route.
Instead, he prefers Schiaparelli Schiaparelli, who is full of exaggeration, even dramatized.
I feel that her more design and aggressive style is more compatible with her own sparkling superstar title.
Schiaparelli was also the first fashion designer to appear on the cover of Time magazine.
It was the limelight of the times.
The difference in their design concepts has led to a gap between them that is bound to be difficult to bridge.
Elsa Schiaparelli firmly believes that fashion is not just clothes, but an art, saying: "Never let fashion adapt to your body, but you have to adapt to fashion".
And Ms. Chanel, what she hates most is this seemingly noble "fake big empty" design, always firmly believe that clothes are used to wear.
Simplicity and generosity to liberate women's daily lives is the most important.
So the two had been sworn enemies at the time.
Chanel called Schiaparelli "the Italian artist who made clothes", alluding to the fact that she would be an artist if she didn't design.
Miss Elsa, of course, is not easy to mess with, and she directly hit back at Chanel, calling her "the one who made hats", and satirizing her that she first entered the fashion circle through a hat shop.
At the height of their rivalry, at a social dance, Elsa pretended to invite Miss Coco to dance, only to turn around and push her onto a crystal lamp full of candles.
Fortunately, the other guests present helped to extinguish the fire on her body. What is the plot of this realistic version of "Palace Heart"? The means are fierce enough...
Elsa herself has a completely different trajectory from Miss Chanel's life.
She comes from a famous Italian family and is the standard "the greatest gold in the door of books".
Papa Celestino Schiaparelli is a well-known figure in Italian academia, and his mother Maria Luisa is an Italian aristocrat.
And her brothers and uncles, who are also famous Scholars in Europe.
The "Schiaparelli crater" in the movie "The Martian" was discovered by Elsa's uncle.
Nasa released real photos of Achidalia from The Martian
So she grew up in an atmosphere full of academics and art.
The excellent and solid family environment also provides her with a very confident artistic exploration, without considering any economic and cost-effective issues.
After all, the cultivation of art and fashion orientation needs to be spent.
Even Gu Ailing knows: After studying art, it is not easy to find a job.
This was never a problem in front of the rich family Elsa.
But living in an inclusive and free environment from an early age also allowed little Elsa to develop a self-contained personality.
In order to let her develop a good attitude towards life, she was sent to a monastic boarding school at a very young age.
The girlish Elsa Schiaparelli
Boarding life made Elsa more independent, and at the age of 22, she rejected her parents' arrangement of "door to door to good husband" and ran away from home to london to develop.
Then at a speech in London, it was love at first sight to a man with a slippery tongue.
The two quickly staged the plot of "flash marriage and divorce", as if the movie was triple-fast.
After the divorce, Elsa came to Paris alone, studied painting and sculpture, and on a whim, she began to ask herself: Why can't you try the work of designing clothes?
So Elsa, who didn't have any experience in fashion design classes, began her own fashion design life.
The first piece is a small knit with a black and white bow pattern.
In order to better show it, Elsa herself acted as the brand's first model.
Going to a friend party is deliberately late, so that everyone here can see the effect of their outfit.
As a result, after eating that day, all the female friends present wanted to have this bow knit that seemed extremely chic at the time.
An American fashion buyer also placed an order of 40 pieces on the spot, which made Elsa's confidence in being a personal brand more sufficient.
Although she has never systematically studied fashion design, the good aesthetic she has cultivated since childhood and the boundless rich imagination have made her inspired all the time.
Scribbling on the drawing is a stylish piece with a lot of spirit.
Her design emphasizes the contours of the shoulders and is paired with a high, narrow waistline and an extra-long hem.
Very personal and stylish.
Never set limits on yourself in the choice of materials.
I like to integrate unexpected craftsmanship into the design.
Insects, cellophane, straws...
Zoomed in, every detail is full of imagination.
Under her hands, everything can serve fashion.
High heels can be worn not on the feet, but directly on the head.
Bold designs, even now, are extremely unique.
After that, Faye Wong also had a corresponding tribute style in her own concert.
In addition, many artists in the same period were originally her friends, such as Jean Cocteau, Salvador Dalí, Leonor Fini and so on.
Therefore, Elsa often integrates the design works of her friends into her own fashion designs.
Works by artist Dalí Salvador Dalí
For example, this "lobster skirt" that made her "famous in the First World War":
Directly put the lobster painted by Dalí on the skirt of the high-grade Eugen yarn dress.
Bold and imaginative, she was caught by the Duchess of Windsor during the honeymoon period and wore it to Vogue for eight pages.
Lobsters can also appear on the head:
Constellation bySchiaparelli
In the classic Moulin Rouge, the pink suit worn by Zsa Zsa Gabor is also worn by Elsa Schiaparelli.
Single-handedly, this Barbie powder became the hottest popular color of the year.
However, with the advent of World War II, this overly flashy and unique design style began to be slowly replaced by Mr. Dior's "new structuralism".
Mr. Dior and his New Look series
Unlike the previous lace, there is also a ruffle trim, with a large lapel shoulder line with a high-rise A-line skirt, emphasizing the waist and hip line.
This combination of simple structure and feminine characteristics is more popular.
In The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, which depicts contemporaneous stories, Mrs. Maisel wears this combination very often.
Mr. Givenchy's "elegant Hepburn" also adds bricks and tiles to this uncomplicated, but always emphasizing elegant and exquisite image.
Mr. Saint Laurent's "smoking clothes" have become the latest fashion trend for women to boldly wear pants.
Girls prefer to wear designs that make them comfortable, rather than just focusing on "whether you can grab the camera".
In contrast, Schiaparelli, who is too constrained by the body and too complicated and exaggerated in design style, has begun to go downhill.
In 1954, Elsa finally shut down the brand it had been creating for 27 years.
He also wrote an autobiography called Shocking Life.
Chanel, who also shut down the brand because of France's involvement in the war, bravely launched its first post-war fashion collection in the same year.
With everyone's gradually awakened feminist consciousness, we designed the Chanel tweed suit that is still very popular.
While Chanel has steadily become a big name in the first line, Schiaparelli has "disappeared" in the fashion industry for a while.
In 2006 and 2012, there were intentions to return, but the market did not buy it.
It wasn't until 2019, with a new design director, Daniel Roseberry, an equally creative and imaginative man, that he returned with a new generation of Shaparelli.
The first big show was to reactivate Elsa's signature color, Shocking Pink.
SchiaparelliFall2019 Sewing
Lady Gaga through:
After the stunning return, Schiaparelli returned to the "first echelon of the couture circle".
Once again, it has become a favorite of contemporary superstars.
Therefore, whether it is a brand or an individual, this circle is always staging a wonderful story of "thirty years of Hedong, thirty years of Hexi".
No one has a thousand days, and no flowers have a hundred days of red. The only constant truth is "always changing."
Whether we can always keep pace with the times and break the ceiling of self-knowledge is what Miss Shaparelli in the 30s and all of us women in the twenty-first century need to learn together for a lifetime.
No matter how the situation and the general environment change, as long as you always maintain the ability to make self-improvement, do not be arrogant and complacent, and are not arrogant, even if you sink to the bottom, there will always be a day when you "return to the game".