I can't tell if London has a cake with the name "London", but in Chinese mainland, anyone who writes "London cake" can only refer to "Lunjiao cake".
In the Qing Dynasty, the Chinese people gradually knew that there was a sky outside the sky, and the intellectuals became interested in foreign things, and many new terms were translated. It is true that "elm knots" are not in the minority, they do not recognize the outside set, and always want to "dwarf". Wild history says that the word "London" could originally be translated and written in many ways, but later a group of stubborn people made a sinister trick and dug a big hole - turned a very ancient word "Dunlun" upside down and wrote "London" to vent their resentment: in the case of unfamiliarity with "London", it will most likely be mistaken for "Dunlun".
What is Dunlun? It has several meanings, one of which, hehe, I can't say. I remember that there is a bridge section in Zeng Pu's "Evil Sea Flower" that mentions it-
Shi Nong said, "On learning, I didn't dare to be a teacher, but I just accepted his feelings and always cried out when I met." When we met yesterday, we called as usual. After you said he called, what did you say next? Gong Shangshu said, "What words?" (Shi Nong replied) "He said, 'How about the teacher's interest in talking to his mother, Dun Lun, lately?' 'I blindfolded him at that time, my face couldn't be pulled down, and I didn't have a good seizure, so I simply gave him a free talk about the art of rongcheng, su woman fang, medical heart fang, nonsense a big article ..."
Zeng Pu (pen name: East Asian Sick Man) is a writer who knows a lot about foreign affairs, and he suddenly pulls out such a detail in his work, and I speculate that it has a certain relationship with the wild history I pulled earlier.
"The Flower of the Sea of Iniquity" is one of the four major "condemnation novels" of the late Qing Dynasty, and Zeng Pu did not take the opportunity to "condemn" the "strange status quo", I am afraid that he has failed to live up to the original intention and resentment of taking the pen name of "The Sick Man of East Asia".
If in the past, the concept of "Dunlun" implanted in "London" was a bit clever, then it is too clever to say that "Lunjiao Cake" is now "London Cake" - only know London, do not know Lunjiao, but misunderstand Qingqing's judgment.
Of course, the reason for this should also include that Lunism resembles the glyphs of London.
Why make a fuss? Catering jianghu confusing "Lunjiao cake" and "London cake", common, do not believe? I'll take a screenshot from the circle of friends and show it to you!
I can't tell if London has a cake with the name "London", but I will never regard "Lunjiao" as a pretense or a cross-reference to "London". In Chinese mainland, anyone who writes "London Cake" can only refer to "Lunjiao Cake".
Lunjiao is a town in Shunde District, Foshan City, Guangdong Province, which was withdrawn in 1993 to set up a street.
This place was called "Haixinsha" during the Tang Dynasty, and in the Ming Dynasty, because the local governor Zheng Xunzhai governed it well, the imperial court gave it a plaque of "Lun Chang Zhi Jiao", so the local people simply changed its name to "Lun Sect".
That's how the name of Lunjiao Cake came from.
Lunjiao cake is made of indica rice flour with yeast faol, so that the starch is transformed into a mixture of starch and dextrin, and then steamed to form.
The production process of this cake is simple, but the measure of each process is extremely difficult to grasp, for example, to use the local unique spring to make, if there is no such condition, then use egg white to remove turbidity, so that the general water can replace the clear spring; for example, the cake body should have a "crab eye" (horizontal straight eye) - a small blister-like eye (brewing in an environment of 35 degrees Celsius all night, rice milk natural fermentation, active carbon dioxide rushing out of the surface to form rich bubbles), horizontal and vertical connection, symmetrical and orderly; for example, the surface layer is smooth like lard paste, Crystal clear......
It is reported that in Cantonese restaurants in North America, a small plate of three-piece Lunjiao cakes is sold for 3-5 knives.
Stores in Shanghai don't sell cheap either.
I believe that most people are not familiar with the Lunjiao cake and even think that it is a newborn, niche, foreign, alternative cake. In fact, it is also a traditional dim sum with a relatively long history.
Let's first put aside the local people's claim that "a villager surnamed Liang accidentally invented it during the Ming Dynasty", and take a passage from the "Shunde County Chronicle" published by Xianfengjian in the Qing Dynasty, "Lunjiao cake, the former Mingshi doctor is not far away for hundreds of miles, and the boat is docked." In fact, at that time, the well-known people stopped a family, next to the Huafeng Wei Bridge, there was a stone at the bottom of the river, a clear spring, and his home was suitable for setting up a stone, taking it to wash sugar, clarifying and removing turbidity, not used by others", it was very powerful.
In order to prove the "gold content" of Lunjiao cake, many people often do not hesitate to quote two articles by Lu Xun ("Lane Tang Business Ancient and Modern Talk" and "Snacks") to mention Lunjiao cake, and label him as "also very fond of eating"——
"Barley almond heart porridge!"
"Rose White Sugar LunJiao Cake!"
"Shrimp ravioli noodles!"
"Spiced tea eggs!"
This was four or five years ago, the sound of snacks being sold inside and outside the lanes around Zhabei, and if it had been recorded at that time, from morning to night, I am afraid there would have been twenty or thirty.
—— "Ancient and Modern Talk on Lane Business"
Shanghai residents have always liked to eat snacks. If you pay attention, the people who sell snacks outside the house are always "real and rich". Osmanthus white sugar Lunjiao cake, lard white sugar lotus heart porridge, shrimp wonton noodles, sesame bananas, Nanyang mango, Xilu (Siamese) honey orange, melon seed king, as well as preserves, olives, and so on. As long as the appetite is good, you can eat it straight from the morning to the middle of the night, but the appetite is not good, because this is not bigger than the fat fish, and the amount is very small.
- "Snacks"
In black and white, it is true that Lunjiao cakes are concerned by Lu Xun. But did we see him eat it? Did he like it? Lu Xun's article proves that in Shanghai in the late 1920s and mid-1930s, Lunjiao cake was not only popular in Hongkou, where Cantonese people gathered, but also in other areas such as Zhabei.
Naturally, it is difficult for me to conclude that Lu Xun will definitely take a "horizontal stand" posture in the face of Lunjiao cake, after all, Mr. Jing's lover Jing Song is a Guangdong Panyu person, and Panyu is next door to Lunjiao, which is inevitably "tempted" by Lunjiao cake. It is conceivable that Lu Xun and his lover will have "empathy" on the "Lunjiao Cake".
The gourmand Che Spoke said, "In 1942, the Beijing Fruit Shop of the North Taste House of the Chengdu Commercial Field sold Lunjiao cakes, and because it was a Cantonese method, it made the Chengdu people at that time feel new. ("Ba Jin Likes to Eat Hometown Dishes") It can be seen that the "power" of Lunjiao cake has penetrated into the mainland 80 years ago.
I also think of the old newspaperman Adego fondly recalling in the WeChat circle of friends that he ate "smooth and sweet" Lunjiao cake at the Lacey Hotel in the early sixties.
In the "Cake Category" of the Shanghai Pastry Law (first edition in 1974), the List of Lunjiao Cakes is not mentioned in Begonia Cake and Chongming Cake, which shows its influence in Shanghai.
From Lu Xun to Ba Jin, from Shanghai to Sichuan, by Lacey Hotel and "Shanghai Pastry Making Law"... How can we say that Lunjiao cakes are cold things?
Many years ago, I ate Lunjiao cake in several Cantonese-style tea restaurants: the appearance is close to intestinal powder, jelly, the taste is connected to rice cakes, wine cakes, smooth and cool, sweet and slightly hidden yogurt, unique flavor, leaving a good impression. However, as people complain, in addition to the most famous Cantonese restaurants that still have a small supply, Lunjiao cakes are rarely seen in Shanghai. Last month, I went to a well-known Shunde restaurant for dinner, and specifically asked about the existence of Lunjiao cakes, and the boss's answer disappointed me.
I know that making Lunjiao cake is not an easy task, involving time, location, people, and no one can be less, but I didn't expect that it would be so difficult to operate locally, and the sense of market identity was so poor.
Needless to say that those who have read the words, even those who go to buy Lunjiao cakes for the word "London", I do not have the slightest intention of laughing, I only think that their luck, courage, knowledge and curiosity make me admire, my bottom line is only - do not misread or write "Dunlun cake", just do not misread or write "Dunlun cake". (West Slope)