The rapid development of the global economy has made people happy to explore the unknown, and their ideas have become more inclusive. During this period, the concept of women's body freedom reached its peak, the role of idols in leading fashion trends began to emerge, and the power of Japanese design received attention... Acceptance and integration have become the key words in the fashion industry. At the same time, "workaholic" Karl Lagerfeld, with his amazing talent and drastic reforms, made the sluggish Chanel shine again, and the emergence of the "Antwerp Six" also opened the door to the fashion industry for the new generation of Design Forces in Belgium.
Karl Lagerfeld had established his fashion voice in 1983, and he was also known as a workaholic working for Fendi, Chloé and Alma. At the invitation of Alain Wertheimer, he became creative director at Chanel, who was in the doldrums. Then he embarked on an unprecedented overhaul that upended all definitions of the role of designer. Karl Lagerfeld combined chanel's classic elements with innovative elements to suit his mood, not only reinvigorating the Chanel brand, but even surpassing Coco Chanel's achievements in a sense. In an interview with WWD, he said: "I work 16 hours a day and have fun. ”
Karl Lagerfeld, 1987
In the early days of taking over the brand, his ideas and decisions were constantly challenged. WWD reports: "As we prepare for the first couture collection, excitement and tension fill the entire Street of Campan. Chanel's regular customers have a clear confrontation and friction with Lagerfeld. "There is no doubt that Karl Lagerfeld won this victory with exceptional talent and conviction." Fashion is business, not art. People don't decide to buy products just because you look good, we need to get serious about doing business. He said.
In September 2010, Karl Lagerfeld attended the reopening of Chanel's Soho store in New York and received an honorary award from FIT. He said: "I don't like the word 'honor', I've just been doing a job all my life and it's nice that everyone is happy with my job. ”
The love of logos began in the 1970s, when Vintage bags from Louis Vuitton and Gucci were ubiquitous. In the 1990s, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger revived the enthusiasm for the logo, but the opposition remained.
Louis Vuitton，2005
In 1973, Nan Kempner said in an interview with WWD: "I was adamant that I wouldn't carry a Logo Louis Vuitton or Gucci bag, so I sent all the Louis Vuitton bags back to Paris and dyed brown." ”
In 1981, edgy Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo took them to Paris Fashion Week with their collections of fashions that fascinated WWD. On March 16, 1983, WWD wrote in a report: "Japanese designers have not given up the black and white they liked, nor did they abandon the ultra-conventional fit that appeared in last autumn's collection, they have maintained a high level of creativity in fashion creativity." ”
After the Paris Fashion Week show, WWD still maintained a high enthusiasm for Japanese designers, publishing pictures of the big shows of Japanese designer brands (in 2010, Rei Kawakubo said in an interview with WWD that she did not like to be called Japanese designers, and it was an insult to divide by race), and the title "Kochi Backpack Women" was painted with a huge X, inspired by the residents of train and bus stations, WWD called it "the fashion of the terminal station".
Works by Yohji Yamamoto
Two years later, WWD reported that mainstream retailers' interest in Japanese fashion was waning, much to the dismay of fans who love Japanese style. Chris Matthews, the fashion director at Macy's, said the Stores of the Japanese brand gave them a headache. "I'm going to eat two Pieces of Techno before I come in, no one speaks English here, the clerk never puts clothes on display, we have to do it ourselves," he says. ”
Works by Rei Kawakubo
Despite poor store management, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo continue to deliver stunning designs. For example, Rei Kawakubo launched the Quasimodo collection in the spring of 1997 and Yohji Yamamoto's couture and wedding dress collection in the 1990s. Recently, Yohji Yamamoto also elaborated on the impact of haute couture on street fashion through a new collection.
Of all the terms WWD coined for the fashion industry, "Twerp" is perhaps the least widely disseminated term. In July 1987, WWD featured a group of emerging Belgian designers under the headline "I Brake for Twerps."
Antwerp Six Gentlemen
WWD reports: "Since the appearance of the painter Peter Paul Rubens during the Renaissance, it has not been so exciting for the Belgian port city of Antwerp for a long time. In WWD's view, Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene, Marina Yee, Walter Van Beirendonck and Dirk Bikkembergs, known as the "Antwerp Six", will lead the fashion industry's latest wave of radicalism.
At the same time, their success has opened the door to the fashion dream for Belgian designers such as Martin Margiela, Olivier Theyskens, Raf Simons and others.
Madonna defined pop culture and created its own era. Shiny blonde hair, large bracelets, lace crop top, motorcycle shorts, Boy Toy belt... Madonna is active in the fashion and music world with a sharp attitude.
In the 1980s, Madonna was just a poster model, but it wasn't long before she debuted in the music industry. Her style is varied, setting off a trend of underwear and wearing, but when people laugh at her superficiality, she will sing "music reunites everyone, stirs up oppression and resistance" to inspire the world.
Madonna, 1983
In 1990, Madonna hosted the Blonde Ambition World Tour, wearing Jean Paul Gaultier's pointed tapered underwear sparked the "underwear outside" trend. In 1992, Madonna participated in a charity fashion show organized by the designer as Jean Paul Gaultier's muse. WWD reports: "Dressed in black, her golden teeth are her only accessory. After the catwalk, she took off her jacket to reveal a strappy dress designed by Jean Paul Gaultier. Everyone was tirelessly watching and looking, and she was almost like having a fatal attraction. ”
Few merchants have as many layouts on WWD as Millard "Mickey" Drexler. In his legendary career, he has had two magical business achievements, the first to build Gap into a household name, and the second to help bring J. Crew back to life.
Millard “Mickey” Drexler，1995
Using marketing tactics, Millard 'Mickey' Drexler turned the most basic casual model into a "cool" product that people are eagerly sought after. He reinvented banana republic, launched old navy, and built Gap into a fashion retail giant. As the expansion was too fast, Gap's development began to slow down, and Millard "Mickey" Drexler was forced to leave. In 2003, he joined J. Crew, helping the brand regain market recognition. After joining J. Crew, Millard "Mickey" Drexler said in an interview with WWD: "Like other industries, people need to make money in this industry. It's art and science, but we're more sensitive to creativity and fashion trends. ”
In 1966, Nancy Reagan first appeared in WWD coverage. At the time, her husband, Ronald Reagan, was running for governor of California. In July of the same year, Nancy Reagan conducted a candid interview with WWD on the theme of "The Real Reagan." "People may have to accept me as I am," she said. In the campaign, I will also wear the clothes I am used to, and the suit shirt is the most comfortable. ”
Nancy Reagan and Ronald Reagan, 1973
Later, whenever Nancy Reagan appeared in public, her dress would cause people to praise and controversy. In January 1981, WWD published an article titled "Nancy Reagan Style Stimulates Sales," in which Saks Fifth Avenue said that Nancy Reagan's Adolfo suits and evening suits sold twice as much as other products.
As a fashion icon in people's hearts, Nancy Reagan has twice attended CFDA awards ceremonies. In 1988, she received the CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award in her iconic "Reagan Red" Oscar de la Renta gown. In an interview in May 2002, Nancy Reagan reflected on her eight years at the White House and said, "I will miss everything here." ”
Kelly Gray was called a "vibrant icon" by Richard Buckley, vogue's male editor at the time, and in her heyday, she was a miracle in the marketing world.
Kelly Gray (far right) with parents, 1993
Founded in 1962 by Kelly Gray's parents, St. John has been the face of the brand for 22 years. Each year, Kelly Gray shoots two promotional blockbusters. In 2005, advertising giant David Lipman commented in an interview with WWD: "What I really respect is that even if you block the logo, people will clearly know that this is St. John's advertisement." "A combination of highly recognizable advertising campaigns, dynamic brand ambassadors, and an elite management team quickly made St. John a fashion brand with $400 million in assets, while also accumulating a loyal consumer base over the years of operation.
In 2002, Kelly Gray talked about her modeling career in an interview with WWD, saying, "I knew I couldn't always be St. John's brand ambassador, but I wasn't ready to give it to someone else." "The brand's consumers think the same way she does. In 2005, after Kelly Gray announced that she would no longer be a brand spokesperson, Giselle Bündchen and Angelina Jolie took over her work at different times, but both received some resistance.
In 1982, Jane Fonda released her first aerobic fitness video, which sparked a fitness craze. Under her influence, more and more people began to pay attention to diet, choose fitness equipment that suits them, and buy good-looking sportswear.
Jane Fonda，1979
In 1984, Jane Fonda launched her own collection of fitness clothing. Because of her political stance against the Vietnam War, retailers began to be less bullish on clothing sales. Ric Wanetik from retail firm Marshall Field told WWD in an interview: "Consumers simply love this collection of clothing and don't care about Jane Fonda's political philosophy. In addition to Jane Fonda, Richard Simmons, Olivia Newton-John and Jennifer Beals also joined the trend, turning headbands, leggings and off-the-shoulders into the most popular fashion items of the time.
The invention of powering dressing was one of the most remarkable achievements of the fashion industry in the 1980s. Broad shoulders, slender waist, confident, sharp female figure was thus outlined by Thierry Mugler and Claude Montana.
Claude Montana's Fall 1983 collection
In 1979, WWD reported: "From the beginning, Thierry Mugler advertised himself as a 'futuristic bard,' and his work did look like something that only appeared in science fiction." Claude Montana's design style is equally aggressive. In 1984, WWD reported: "The early concepts were really extreme. The use of masculine elements and creative fantasies are focused on the iconic big, pointed shoulders. In an interview, Claude Montana told WWD: "In the beginning, I wanted to amaze people. It's an unconscious impulse, but that's what it's all about. (To be continued) WWD
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Image source WWD 100th anniversary special issue, network