The preface to the article on choosing a place in the "Snow Eunuch Embroidery" reads: "The ingenuity of art is due to the heart, and the ingenuity of the heart is because of the situation." Sincerity makes the windows bright and clean, although the clumsy also change their minds; the dark lights in the room are dim, and the clever ones also lose their way. Moreover, things are scrawled and scribbled, and the spirit of the situation is not gathered, and all the arts are the same, and the situation is distinguished from the slightest, and the gain and loss are in the end? Therefore, embroidery must be the most important place to choose. Although the original meaning of this text refers to the need for a clean and elegant embroidery environment, imagine how beautiful the embroidery should be if you draw on the beauty of heaven and earth in the beautiful and healthy land of Hangzhou, where there is a paradise. Hangzhou embroidery has won such benefits, Hangzhou has always been known as the "silk house", the prosperity of the silk industry has promoted the development of embroidery technology, Hangzhou has a long history of embroidery. According to records, the first elbow embroidery scissors in the history of Chinese embroidery came from Hangzhou, and Hangzhou embroidery is also the first batch of intangible cultural heritage projects in Hangzhou and the third batch of intangible cultural heritage projects in Zhejiang Province.
Hangzhou embroidery is one of the traditional national crafts, and the Southern Song Dynasty was the peak period. At that time, embroidery, one for "court embroidery", one for "folk embroidery", the former for the royal court embroidery of various costumes, the latter embroidery of official uniforms, quilts, screens, wall hangings and so on. Until the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the People's Republic, Hangzhou embroidery was still popular, and there were nearly 20 embroidery workshops in the city, such as the Houshi, Congee Teaching Workshop, and Tianshui Bridge, and there were as many as 200 to 300 craftsmen who were good at embroidery. Hangzhou embroidery stitching method is light, stitching methods mainly include flat embroidery, random needle embroidery, stacked embroidery, paste embroidery, borrowing bottom embroidery, hair embroidery, wearing bead embroidery, help embroidery, dot embroidery, weaving embroidery, mesh embroidery, yarn embroidery and so on. There are many varieties of embroidery in Hangzhou, especially in anglo-gold embroidery, gold-clad embroidery, silver thread embroidery, colored silk embroidery and so on. Gold embroidery, golden splendor, grace and luxury; gold embroidery, layered, interspersed; silver thread embroidery, simple and elegant, plain and vulgar; colored thread embroidery, fine and colorful, vivid image. In terms of embroidery skills, Hangzhou embroidery absorbs and integrates the length of the four famous embroideries of Su, Xiang, Shu and Guangdong, and the embroidery method is changeable, forming its own unique style. Most of the pattern designs of Hangzhou embroidery are based on traditional patterns such as dragons, phoenixes, unicorns, bats, peacocks, peonies, shou peaches, ruyi, bagua, and west lake scenery that are popular among the people. The use of exaggeration and deformation in decoration is also a major feature of Hangzhou embroidery.
In the Ming Dynasty, Zhang Yingwen's "Qing Secret Collection" recorded that "the embroidery of the Song people, the needle and thread are fine, the thread is used to stop one or two silks, the needle is like hair, the thin one is for it, the color is exquisite, and the brilliance is dazzling." "Hangzhou embroidery is meticulous and meticulous, with high skill and level. After the founding of the People's Republic of China, Hangzhou embroidery has received the attention of the government, cultivated a group of successors, set up embroidery and machine embroidery research room, research and collation, excavation and innovation, created a large number of embroidery products, formed a unique style of modern embroidery in Hangzhou, and appeared in the national arts and crafts circles, making the ancient Hangzhou embroidery bloom out of new glory.
Special Planner: Huayi Tomorrow Fashion Content Center
Editorial Director : Huang Wei
Image source: Gong Wei Huang Wei's artistic reconstruction
Text Editing: Tao Zi Video Production: Feixun Video
Layout Design: BBird . Poplar wood