↑ Pay attention to the secrets of the city, for you to read the city in a deciphered way
The full text is 9469 words, about 15 minutes to read
"City Secrets" guest author: Zhu Jin
The grand narrative of "old events in the south of the city" began from Wushan, like a silver needle ringing in the valley, because the south of the city is too dense and thick for Hangzhou, it is basically the soul of Hangzhou, the origin of the earliest Hangzhou city, and the urban core of Hangzhou, but what about Wushan? The gold lord wants to "immediately reach the first peak of Wushan", it seems that occupying Wushan is occupying the imperial city of the Southern Song Dynasty, occupying the imperial city is occupying the three autumn guizi, ten lotus flowers, occupying a wealth of Jiangnan, the weight of Wushan can be seen here.
"Map of the Capital City of the Southern Song Dynasty" This picture is quoted from the "Xianchun Lin'an Zhi"
The concept of Seongnam, historically speaking, is changing. When there is a city wall, the south of the city only refers to the area around the roots of the imperial city inside the city gate, and the Drum Tower Dajing Lane looks at the Jiangmen Gate. After breaking the city wall, the south of the city will also be wrapped in the Longshan River. We discussed with the experts that the northern edge of the south of the city should reach Kaiyuan Road - the southern end of the flag camp, the moat Tiesha River in the east, the Nanshan Road in the west, and the north bank of the Qiantang River in the south. It is not a concept of division in the administrative sense, it is a piece of land, a psychological belonging.
Wu Shan stands in the south of the city, the City God Bodhisattva guards Hangzhou at the top of the mountain, where there is the fireworks atmosphere and secular beliefs of the Hangzhou people, Wu Shan is like an old man, there are endless stories. Wushan is also easy to let people get lost, strange peaks and strange rocks, deep caves in the valley, after all, it is a karst landform, and the weather is varied. To understand Wushan, you must invite a land, and the city secretary today invited a gentleman who has guarded the mountain for half a lifetime- Lu Jun, who was once the chief of Wushan. If you figure out Wushan, you will also find the reassuring dan of Hangzhou.
If you have a Story of Wushan, please also submit it to us, for a fee, enough to sell wine.
▲ Wushan, a mountain embedded in the downtown area of Hangzhou, has the fireworks of the citizens around Drum Tower and Hefang Street on the one hand, and the natural forest spring and rocky mountain on the other side. Photography @ Xiao Yisan
Wu Shan, Tian Rucheng "West Lake Tour" Yun: Spring and Autumn is the southern boundary of Wu, to distinguish from Yue, so it is known as Wu Mountain. In this way, Wushan got its name from the State of Wu. Tan Qijun's Spring and Autumn Volume of the Historical Atlas of China shows that Wuchu is bounded by the Yangtze River and Wuyue by the Qiantang River.
Wushan is the yuxu of Tianmu Mountain, and the jewel mountain forms the two horns of the north and south of the West Lake.
Overlooking the city and the West Lake from Wushan in the late 1980s Photo @ Zhang Shengxian
Wushan is not a mountain, but is composed of a series of hills such as Wugong Mountain, Liangdao Mountain, Ziyang Mountain, Qibao Mountain, Jindi Mountain, and Yunju Mountain.
▲ Wushan Mountain body extends north into the city, by Ziyang, Yunju, Qibao, Shifo, Emei, Luosi and other gangs and mountains, collectively known as Wushan, 100 meters above sea level, so Hangzhou also has "Emei Mountain"!
I believe that everyone has their own Wushan.
Yu Hua once went to Hangzhou to visit Mr. Huang Yuan. The old gentleman, who was nearly eighty years old at the time, knew that a young writer who wrote novels had come out of his hometown of Haiyan and wrote to him, asking him to definitely go and see him. After the two met, the old man was very happy and asked the writer where to live in Haiyan? Yu Hua told him he was staying in a hospital dormitory. He asked where the hospital was? Yu Hua said it was on the west side of the movie theater. He asked where the cinema was? Yu Hua said next to Haiyan Middle School. He asked where Haiyan Middle School was? It turned out that after half a day, until the young writer resigned, the two still did not find a place name that both sides knew. Yu Hua recalled in the book that the same Haiyan, in Mr. Huang Yuan's old man, and in my place became two completely different memories.
The same is true of Wushan. Looking across the mountain side into a peak, everyone's different memories interact together, and the real Wushan will appear in front of our eyes.
Yan'an Road to Wushan Photo @ Xiao Yisan
When elementary school is closed, my parents will store me with all my distant relatives and neighbors. In this way, I used to send it to my grandmother's sister, the little grandmother, many times on and off.
View of Wushan Mountain from the West Lake Photo @ Dongdongdongdong
Their family lived in Wangjiangmen, and my little grandfather was a model worker in the Yixiangzhai Food Factory, and later became the director of the factory, and he couldn't see anyone all day. Until one day off, he got up early in the morning, called me up alone, and said to go to breakfast. We have been up Mount Wu, at the top of the mountain to eat a bowl of tofu brain, is with a shiny long-handled steel spoon, the spoon surface is the size of my face, gently skimmed a piece from the large wooden barrel, put in the bowl, hot whirring, sprinkled with green onions, squeezed vegetables, meat floss or something, a little sauce and sesame red oil, selling tofu cloud rain hand turned magic like a stirring, became, put in the mouth, the entrance is melted.
▲ In the wushan management office at the entrance of the grass there is a natural stone that looks like a scoop, only 10 meters away from the zodiac stone, many Hangzhou people must have been introduced by their parents when they were young, stepping on the scoop stone, sliding a poplar stone, and not in vain to come to Wushan. Photography @ Ziyi
Just like the "Little Madeleine" tea snack in Proust's "Remembrance of the Lost Water Years", many years later, but whenever there is a chance to eat a bowl of tofu brain, the memories of Wu Shan, Little Grandpa and Little Grandma and Qinghe Fang's short stay will come to mind, so that for a long time, Wu Shan in my opinion, is a mountain with tofu brains, the zodiac stone on the mountain, slippery, white, not like tofu brains on the ground? Not only that, but there is also a scoop stone next to it, which can be said that even the guy who eats tofu brain has it.
Those Hangzhou little men climbed and fell all day long the stone has a history of 2 to 250 million years, Wushan geological structure belongs to carbonate rock, that is, karst landform, the stone forest landscape such as the Zodiac Stone is called "stone buds", as early as the "Lake Mountain Handbook" is called "Wushan Twelve Peaks": pen holder, incense burner, chessboard, elephant trunk, jade shoots, turtle breath, Panlong, Sword Spring, Cow Sleep, Dancing Crane, Mingfeng and Fuhu. However, the ordinary people of Wushan, who are literati, do not buy it, and they still like to call these old antiques that can be ridden and sat "zodiac stones".
▲ Comparison of the 12 zodiac stones from the Republic of China period, the beginning of the 21st century and the present. See, in its earliest days it was about as tall as a one-story house. Looking back at the present, the zodiac stone has been smoothed out a lot, and what remains unchanged is that it is still a favorite holy place for children to play. Hurry up and take a group photo, and after a few years, it may disappear on the ground plane. The old photo of the Republic of China is from @ "100 Views of the West Lake" Shu Xincheng Photography @ Zhang Shengxian, Ziyi
This brings to mind a Seychelles tortoise named Jonathan, born in 1832 on the island of Saint Helena in the South Atlantic, once famous as Napoleon's penal colony. In 1834, st. Helena became a British colony and had a governor,all the governors had taken pictures of Jonathan, and by now he had managed to survive 29 st. Helena governors. The same is true of the zodiac stone, which is also an elephant trunk and a turtle breath, since the beginning of the world, how many people have played on it, and now, the face does not know where to go, and the stubborn stone is still smiling in the spring breeze.
▲Geological map of Hangzhou West Lake area Source @ Zhejiang Provincial Bureau of Geology and Mineral Resources. Wushan is mainly Permian limestone, which is more ancient than the Lower Cretaceous Huangjian Formation of Gem Mountain, and geologically, Wushan is older than Gem Mountain, which is the old mountain of Hangzhou. From the perspective of geological origin, Gem Mountain is formed by volcanic eruptions, and WuShan is a karst landform, so there are so many strange stone caves on Wu Mountain.
In the 1990s, when I graduated from college and went to work at a newspaper, the newcomers who had just entered were routinely going to take two Chinese New Year's Eve shifts. The unit's dormitory is in Qijiayuan near Qiutao Road, Hanghai Road. Whenever I slept until noon, when the weather was good, I would eat something, ride a bicycle, and go to Wushan to spend half a day. Wushan was chosen because the Republic of China scholar Yu Dafu said in the article "Wushan in the City" that "the benefits of Wushan mountain are first in its proximity, and second, it is not high." ”
In the 80s and the tea room on Wushan Mountain, drinking tea and chatting and playing cards, it was quite pleasant. Photography @ Zhang Shengxian, Ziyi
I put my bicycle under the Huancui Building, and "Deng Deng Deng" ran to the top of the mountain, which was opened by the people in the tea room. Say that it is a tea room, in fact, it is the people's own home, spend a dollar, tiger stove there to buy a hot water bottle of water, cup of tea to prepare, you can sit on the top of the ancient wood towering sky, mountain breeze on the top of the half a day, turn over the book, before carefully read two or three times "Ru Lin Wai Shi", is Wu Jingzi's loyal fan, Wu Shan drinking tea scenery, look at The passage of Mr. Ma Er Wu Shan tea, do not need me to write:
Mr. Ma Er was walking when he saw a woman with oily noodles in the tea shop beckoning him to eat tea. Mr. Ma Er did not turn his head and left, and went to a tea room in the middle wall to make a bowl of tea. On that day, there was no wind on the river, the level was like a mirror, and the boats that crossed the river and the palanquins on the boats could see clearly. Walking up a little further, you can see the West Lake on the right, and the area around Leifeng and the Pavilion in the center of the lake can be seen. Fishing boats in the West Lake, one by one, like little ducks floating on the water. Mr. Ma Er was relaxed and happy, so he just walked up and saw a tea table selling tea in front of a large temple, and Mr. Ma Er's feet were sore and he sat and ate tea.
At that time, except for the greeting of women without oil heads and flour noodles, there were no palanquins on the boats in the Qiantang River, and the fishing boats in the West Lake became swimming boats, and the others were similar to what Mr. Ma Er saw.
I usually pick an open-air place away from the crowds, sit on a small chair on the ridge of the earth, sip tea and read until sunset, and get down from huancui building, ride to the unit for dinner and night shift. Spending half a day idle on the top of Mount Wu is really worth ten years of dust dreams.
Two Chinese New Year's Eve class turned over, and I was assigned to the Ministry of Culture to run the Cultural Expo Line. The Archaeological Institute gave me a copy of the internal information of the red mimeograph, all the cultural relics protection points in Hangzhou, and said that you should first touch these and then say. So I touched a few points a day, a total of two hundred and sixty-two points, many of which were in the corners of the mountains, and some in the courtyard of people's homes, and I began a year and a half of cultural protection point punch card career.
One day came to Wushan Houshan, saw the "first mountain" three cliff stone carved big characters, learned a little calligraphy, know that it was written by Mi Fu, when the incense was strong, the people saw the famous stone on the incense and prostrated, the following mountain characters have been black, I went back to call a photojournalist to take a picture and send it to the newspaper, saying that the original carved stone of Mi Fu was destroyed, and it was too late to protect it.
The "First Mountain" stone carving in the Ziyang Mountain Cliff Stone Carving Group is inscribed on the stone wall on the south side of Baocheng Temple. Photography @ Ziyi
Later, Lu Jun of Baocheng Temple told me that there are many such stones in the country, which are not precious. The first mountain of Wushan is indeed written by Mi Fu, but it was carved by Jiang Zhao of Qiantang County during the Ming Dynasty. Taishan, Songshan, Lushan, Wudang, Emei, and Zhongnanshan all have such high imitations, and the generally recognized original version should be the Nanshan of Xuyi, Jiangsu.
Mi Fu's "First Mountain Nostalgia":
Jingluo is still windy and dusty, and the bow of the ship is out of the verdant screen.
Mo On Heng Huo collided with the star bucket, and it was the first mountain in the southeast.
In 1097, in the fourth year of the Northern Song Dynasty, when Mi Fu went to Ren Lianshui Zhijun, from Beijing, that is, today's Kaifeng, down the Beishui River to the south, all the way to the plains, into Jianghuai, only to be able to see the mountain, so there is this song "The First Mountain Huaigu", and now there is no original monument in the Nanshan Mountains of Xuyi. However, Lu Jun's topic turned, you wrote this article, although the facts are different, the upper head is attached to it, and it is also a good thing to stand up the railing protection, which is also a crooked fight.
Baocheng Temple is next to the first mountain, I climbed from the first mountain to Baocheng Temple, met Lu Jun, and knew that there were still people in Wushan.
I am from Hangzhou Steel, Lu Jun was also transferred from Hangzhou Steel Xiaolian Rolling to Baocheng Temple as an administrator, Hangzhou Steel let us immediately pick up the head. Later, I learned that we all loved to read and write, and Lu Jun was once the main poet of the Hangzhou Folk 12 Road Poetry Society, and the 12 Road was the main bus from Genshan Power Plant to Hanggang at that time. After picking up the head, I would run to him every three or five times, drink tea, eat wine and chat, and talk for most of the day. Although he is two years older than me, he will not let me call him a teacher, saying that it is best to look forward to the year.
Aerial photograph of Baocheng Temple on the eastern mountainside of Ziyang Mountain, formerly known as Shakya Temple, was built by the fifth generation of Wu Yueguo princesses. Photography @ Ziyi
There are three ways to walk from the Drum Tower to Baocheng Temple, one is to walk the Fifteen Kui Lane or the Chenghuang Archway Lane, to the Fourth Archway "People Can't Forget" Archway from the Yuanbao Heart.
The "People Cannot Forget" archway of the Fourth Arch Was originally a zhongjie shrine commemorating Wu Zixu, Yue Fei, Chu Suiliang and Yu Qian. Photography @ Ziyi
Why is it called "Yuanbao Heart"? Because the terrain there is getting higher and higher, there are two roads in the middle, and the middle is mostly a platform arched, and then closed at the top of the mountain, like the heart of a big yuan treasure. Every time I walked through Yuanbaoxin, I didn't know how to think of Zhang Ailing looking for Hu Lancheng to Wenzhou, saying, "This Wenzhou city is like a jewel shining." "Wu Shan, too, is shining with the Yuanbao heart."
In the old days, Yuan Baoxin went up the mountain road and compared with the current photo Photo @ Zhang Shengxian, Ziyi
In ancient times, this road was the avenue taken by the emperor up the mountain, and Kangxi Qianlong all walked, and the road was also wide and royal. From the left side of the Yuanbao Division, go up, pass through Yuanbaoxin No. 66, No. 67 Shiguanyin Pavilion, Ganhuayan, turn down, to the first mountain Moya stone carving, opposite is Baocheng Temple. You can also descend the steps from maitreya Buddha below the Stone Guanyin Pavilion, pass through a stone cave, and go forward on the path to the temple gate. According to today's words, Hala Bodhisattva adopted the posture of Ge You lying down, with a cloth bag in one hand and a string of beads in the other, a rare stone carving of the Republic of China period; the stone cave has a heaven and earth inside, and it is said that it was part of the private garden of the former large family.
The nearest road is the third road, from the fifteen Kui Lane through the City God Lou Lane, to the gate of Ding Ya Lane, to a residential building to the end, there is a zigzag mountain road, up is the Baocheng Temple. Ding Ya Lane, it looks like the name of the crepe crepe, but also a little official, in fact, in dialect, it is "the alley of nailing shoes", shoes, dialect sounds like "Yazi", the road of Ding Ya Lane is the "private route" that Lu Jun told me.
Ding Ya Lane Photography @ Ziyi
Lu Jun has written WuShan's books, religious temple views, and Baocheng Temple ranked first, not because he treasured himself with a broom and boasted about himself, but because Baocheng Temple is the only national key cultural relics protection unit in Wushan, and the biggest treasure is the statue of Ma Yue [hé] Ge La on the gable wall inside.
This is a rare Tibetan Buddhist statue with a definite date in China. Mahakura is a transliteration of the Sanskrit word for "great black sky", and Tibetan Buddhism believes that it is the Dharma body that appears when the "Great Sun Rulai" descends from the devil, so this bodhisattva looks very fierce, wearing a crown on his head, a curly hairy head, a fluttering head, a big belly, angry eyes, holding a human head in both hands, a body with one in each arm socket, and a lying corpse under his feet, as if ready to pounce on you at any time to fight with you.
Statue of Ma Yu Ge in Baocheng Temple Photo @ Ziyi
On the left and right sides of Ma Yue Ge La is Manjushri Puxian, who looks different from what we usually see in the temple, especially Manjushri Bodhisattva riding a lion on the left, hanging a skeleton necklace, like a sand monk, with a leather cushion under the seat, and a sword of wisdom in his hand, but a steel fork. Behind the three statues is a flaming flame, and above it is a flying golden-winged bird, which can be seen everywhere in the street temples of Southeast Asian countries such as Thailand, Myanmar, Cambodia and other Southeast Asian countries, and should be a totem of Theravada Buddhism.
There is an inscription next to the statue, which is known to be built by a general named Bo Jianu in the yuan dynasty in the second year of Zhizhi (1322), "sending joy to give up pure wealth", the Yuan people immediately won the world, advocating force, "great black sky" was worshipped as the god of war, every time the conquest necessary to worship. Legend has it that the Yuan army did not go well in attacking Jiangnan, and it was not until it prayed to Ma Yu Ge La to conquer the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty, and then began to worship this god.
There are two other shrines in Baocheng Temple: the Third Buddha and the Lotus Statue. Photography @ Ziyi
In order to protect this national treasure, the Hangzhou Garden And Culture Bureau sent a special person to the mountain to guard the temple 30 years ago, and this person was Lu Jun. Lu Junren was still alone in middle age, not a wife and no children, and the best candidate for the temple to protect the gods. During the New Year, he lived in the temple and made an exception to give the bodhisattva three sticks of incense, which was considered a year's offering, because the temple forbade fire candles.
I sometimes went to him, and after half past four, he closed the mountain gate and drank and ate with me in the small house in the West Wing. When Sihanouk came to Wushan in 1971, the government specially customized several sofa seats for him, which were previously placed in the Mingxiang Building, and later moved here when they were remodeled, and there were four wooden screens of the same style hanging on the wall. We sat in the chair that Sihanouk had sat in and talked, swinging the dragon gate array. A plate of peanut rice, two packs of dried tofu, three bottles of wine, until the moon on the East Mountain, and then push open the mountain gate, stumbled all the way down the mountain, from the Ding Ya Lane support wall to the fifteen Kui Lane, Drum Tower, take the eight-way car, go home. Many times I have slept in the car and have slept on the station.
If it is autumn, a few osmanthus flowers bloom in Baocheng Temple, I will go to him early in the afternoon, the sun will just turn to Nanshan, sit under the osmanthus tree, brew a cup of tea, people idle osmanthus flowers fall, and really fall in the teacup in your hand, and taste with the tea. Later, I also met many other friends of Lu Jun in Baocheng Temple, and the literary and artistic youths in Hangzhou who could write and read books used him as an anonymous contact station, and when they met too many people, the West Wing could not be filled, so he waited until after work and went down the mountain with everyone to corrupt.
Once I took two girls, Lu Jun also had two girls there, and we took four girls to the "Zhou Ji Food Stall" next to the Drum Tower for dinner. Sitting in the window seat on the second floor, you can see the fifteen Kui Lane below, I drink beer, he drinks two pot heads, and the girls drink drinks. He somehow said that there are three monsters in the drum tower, as if it is a kind of roasted cake wonton and stinky tofu, the focus is not here, the focus is on his old man's drink when he is slightly drunk, I summarized the new drum tower three monsters, do you want to listen? We talk in unison to think, to talk.
Fifteen Kui Lane at sunset and Wangxian Pavilion in the distance, a bit of Kyoto taste. Photography @ Xiao Yisan
He said that the place where we drink now is a big monster, talk about the stall, used to be a place for taxi drivers to eat box lunches, and now they can actually make authentic teppanyaki steaks.
The iron plate steak is Lu Jun's must-order, Western food style, cabbage price, when it comes up, it is like a piece of hot black pepper steak on an iron plate, with a little purple onion, enough for Lu Jun to solemnly show off to us.
The second monster is still related to beef, The Wenzhou scalper at the intersection of Ding Ya Lane and Chenghuang Archway Lane has become a beef noodle restaurant today, even if it is not a meal, it will be full of people, where to eat beef noodles and beef pots, the family can not sit down, and added a façade. The beef and fish cakes there are cheap and good, sometimes before going up the mountain I called him to ask him what he wanted to buy, most of the time he said no, and a few times he would say that if it was convenient, he would cut some beef tendon meat at Wenzhou Little Yellow Cow and go to the bar.
The third monster is a brown shop near Zhongshan South Road in Chenghuang Archway Lane, which has half a pound of rice dumplings, which is very large, and often can't buy it, and when it comes to the Dragon Boat Festival, Chenguang is busy, simply selling raw rice dumplings, let you go home and cook it yourself. When Lu Jun wanted to eat, he would first tell the lady boss, big sister, help me keep one, and come to get it in a few hours. A rice dumpling can basically be eaten for a meal. I heard that now, relying on the bun rice dumplings to sell rice dumplings, the eldest sister has bought two suites.
It was Lu Jun's golden age.
He wrote five books for Wu Shan. He said that once, Ma Shiyong, a former vice mayor of Hangzhou, brought a group of people who were in charge of the mountain, invited them to dinner, and asked them their way up the mountain. Lu Jun was the chief of Mount Wu, and the answer he gave was sixteen. The second time, Ma Shiyong specifically looked for him and asked him to write "Hangzhou's Mountains" and "Hangzhou's Water" together, and the latter book let him pick first, Lu Jun picked the West Lake to write, and Ma Shiyong wrote about the Qiantang River.
Wushan's nine boutique routes, each with its own characteristics. Illustration @ Qingzheng Fish
In fact, there are sixteen roads in Wushan, and some of the small roads overlap a lot. Lu Jun and his disciple Wang Xingchen summarized nine boutique routes up the mountain and on the mountain, which can basically be played all over Wu Mountain. In addition to the back hill just mentioned from the fourth archway to the Yuanbaoxin Royal Avenue, if it is counted as line zero, then the back can be discharged like the ground (mountain) railway eight lines.
Grain Road Mountain, as the name suggests, is the mountain road for transporting grain, during the Southern Song Dynasty, there was a grain yard nearby, and the Grain Road Mountain Road was named after it, and now as the main road of Qianshan, you can drive a car to wind up the mountain, and the reputation and function completely cover the Royal Avenue of houshan. And the City God Pavilion as a landmark tower overlooking the jianghu Hangcheng, 360 degrees no dead angle, and then on, the line of sight is better than the Mingxiang Building (trees are basically invisible), the Republic of China Fire Alarm Observatory (look at Hefang Street can, the West Lake can only see half), and even the Jianghu Hui Pavilion (the south corner of the West Lake can not be seen).
The current location of the City God Pavilion is the high platform of the ruins of the Old City God Temple, which was completed in early 2000. Photography @hexiang, Ziyi
This can be said to be the first line of Wushan Mountain, and where you turn to the top of the mountain, there is an ancient camphor tree from the Song Dynasty, which is more than 700 years old, similar to Peng zu. Number 001, Wushan No. 1 ancient wood, Hangzhou No. 1 should be the ancient ginkgo tree at the top of Wuyun Mountain, the Sui Dynasty Emperor was long, twice as old as Wushan Song Zhang, more than 1400 years old.
The large camphor tree on the top of Wu Mountain in the early Republic of China is from "Two I Xuan"
Song Zhang, directly opposite the entrance of the City God Pavilion. According to statistics, there are 11 Song Zhang trees that are more than 700 years old on WuShan. Photography @ Ziyi
▲ Legend has it that the Upper Eight Eyes Well was excavated in the Song Dynasty. A well with eight eyes, below is a large well, above which are eight well circles, and the small well is actually decorative. During the Republic of China, there were 4,842 wells in Hangzhou, with an average of one well per household. It was not until 1931 that the Hangzhou waterworks were completed that the wells were slowly abandoned. There were many ancient wells on Mount Wu, and now there are very few left. Photography @ Ziyi
Both Mr. Ma Er and Prince Sihanouk should have taken this route. Ru Linwaishi said that Mr. Ma Er, on the third day, he had to go to Chenghuang Mountain, and Chenghuang Mountain was Mount Wu, and it was in the city that Mr. Ma Er did not go far, he had already reached the foot of the mountain. Looking at dozens of classes, he walked up, and there were dozens of classes across the way, and Mr. Ma Er walked up in one breath, not feeling breathless. I saw a large temple selling tea in front of the gate and asked for a bowl. Inside is the temple of Wu Xiangguo Wu Gong.
Old photos and current photos of the mountain road on Dajing Lane Photo @ Zhang Shengxian, Ziyi
The place where Mr. Ma Er drank tea was the Wugong Temple; more than two hundred years later, Prince Sihanouk came from the same road and went to Mingxianglou to drink tea.
Since the 1980s, Lu Jun has basically participated in the reconstruction of all temples in Wushan. Like Wugong Temple and Dongyue Temple, they were all five-in patterns before, and when they were rebuilt, they could not restore the weather of that year. There are only some old objects, you can still vaguely imagine the glory of the past, such as the Dongyue Temple, leaving a pair of stone carved dragon pillars in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, when it was rebuilt that year, some people said to replace it with wooden pillars, Lu Jun resolutely stopped it, and used the original pillar. However, people's proposal is not unreasonable, if you want to use the original stone pillar, you have to do a close seam with the wooden structure of other columns, this process has great difficulty, and later found Wenling craftsmen to get the details of the wood and stone fit.
Wugong Temple, commemorating the Spring and Autumn Wu Guo Grand Master Wu Zixu built. Photography @ Ziyi
In addition to the dragon stone pillar, the ancient catalpa tree in front of the Dongyue Temple has also been five or six hundred years old, and every flowering season, it is like a pair of tall beauties, wearing flower tin on their heads, graceful na to language, beauty to heroes, flower sisters to iron brothers. Old Hangzhou people remember that there are four iron statues on both sides of the mountain gate of Dongyue Temple, known as Wushan Iron Brother, and their identity is Lingying Hou Fuyou Hou Zhongzheng Marquis Shunyou Hou Si Taiwei, which is said to have floated from the river and later disappeared. In 2002, the Dongyue Temple was rebuilt, and the iron brother was recast, and the four brothers were invited back.
A pair of ancient catalpa trees in Dongyue Temple, together like a love heart. Photo @ Wang Xiaobo
It is worth saying here that Siyi Road to Siyi Ting Guo PoJing, and then go up, there is a road leading to Yunju Mountain, Lu Jun called him "long knot bladder", Hangzhou dialect means long foot, why is it called long knot bladder? One is because the road is thin and long, like the long feet of a giant. Another reason is that at the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the People's Republic, there was really a temple called "Chang Lonely Light", which was very famous, and it was said that Hongyi and some revolutionaries lived in Chang Lonely Light. "Chang Silent Light" becomes "long cyst" in the mouth of Hangzhou people.
Guo Pojing Photography @ Ajia
There are two long oil hemp vines on the road, flowering season, the old stem is densely planted with purple inflorescences, the sun shines back through the gaps in the fine leaves, the shadows are sparse, the colors are colorful, like butterflies stopping, Lu Jun said that at this time he often goes to the promenade under the vines to sleep, and he is the most favorite in his life Zhang Dai's sketches, "West Lake Dream Seeking", "Tao An Dream Memory", the flowers in the dream fall, I don't know how much.
Ivy oil hemp vine in the area of Yunju Mountain Photo @ Dong Dong Dong
This road basically looks at the cliff carvings. Tsing Yi Cave has a cliff inscription from the tang dynasty, and is one of the earliest surviving stone carvings in Hangzhou, which can still faintly see the spirit of Tang calligraphy. Tang Shi carved three pieces of Hangzhou's brain, and the other two pieces were in Feilai Peak. The most interesting thing is that Lu You must have seen and played with this inscription that year, as evidenced by his "Record of Reading ancient springs": "(Lu) You pressed, the wall of the spring, there is the inscription of tang Kaicheng's five-year Daoist Zhuge Jianyuan eight-point book." The fountain that has been built for four hundred years has been a recurrence of the Public." This ancient spring is the spring water of Tsing Yi Cave.
▲Tsing Yi Spring and Chongyang Nunnery Ruins Cliff. Tsing Yi Cave got its name from the legend of the Tsing Yi Boy, during the Tang Kaicheng period, the Taoist Monk Han Daogu got lost on Mount Wu, accidentally walked to the mouth of the cave, saw a qingyi boy and went forward to ask for directions, but the boy did not answer and turned around and entered the cave for a long time. The Daoist priest wanted to enter the cave and suddenly heard a great sound of wind and rain in the cave, so he quickly fled. Later he built a thatched hut by the cave to practice. In the Yuan Dynasty, another Daoist priest built the Sanqing Treasure Pavilion here, and another legendary figure, Tianshi Guangmuzi, inscribed on the stone wall next to it, "Qingyi Cave Heaven, Wushan Fudi, Ten Square Great Chongyang Nunnery". His story can be obtained in the background by replying to "Broad Neutrino". Photography @ Ziyi
The fifth year of Tang Kaicheng, that is, 840 AD, is four hundred years away from luyou, and twelve hundred years away from us.
This is the oldest, and Lu Jun believes that the best stone carving is the two verses of Yunyin Cave: "I came to the sea country for three thousand miles, and the king was on the first peak of Penglai." Guangxu Chen Feng, a native of Guiping, Guangxi, studied in Japan. This joint is well written, well carved, and very appropriate, in line with the author's identity and experience.
In addition, the poetry of the sense of flower rock is the most puzzling. It is said that Su Dongpo's poem is actually the same as the first mountain of Mi Fu, which was carved by the Ming people, but the person who carved the poem is a master of the eight buckets of thoughtfulness.
Su Dongpo's full title of this poem is "Leave the Peony of ShakyaYuan to Present Zhao Li", Baocheng Temple was originally named Shakya Temple, built by the five generations of Wu Yueguo Princess Yang Shi, and was only changed to Baocheng Temple during the Song Dynasty (1008-1016); and until today there are peonies, both of which are closed, but there is still a hard wound. Su Shi's poem was written in the ninth year of Xi Ning, in 1076, and was in Mizhou to serve as Zhizhou, not in Hangzhou at all, so what to do? This master of the appendix changed the year of the payment to Xi Ning Nonzi, that is, the fifth year of Xi Ning, 1072, the year when Su Dongpo was in Hangzhou. Therefore, the poem wrote "Last year, If Cui Huruo came back, liu lang was in a thousand miles", cui huren face peach blossom and Liu Yuxi's inscription on peach blossom seem to be related to Su Dongpo's poem and Baocheng Temple. Blessed with the sentimental flowers of the three poets, the area around Baocheng Temple has been poetic since then.
In addition to poetry, there are also statues in stone carvings. For example, the magical splashing water Guanyin, originally a small statue carved on the stone wall, after years and months, moss covered, to scoop the water of the front white deer spring with a spoon, splashed on it, moss grass fell, line carved Guanyin is in sight, but unfortunately the whole stone was destroyed in the late 1970s. In order to restore the old appearance of Guanyin, Lu Jun let people paint hundreds of portraits of Guanyin, find hundreds of old people around Mount Wu to identify, which one is closest to the original appearance, and then let wenzhou craftsmen carve it into the stone, and now wait for the stone to grow moss again.
▲ Splashing water Guanyin, also called White Deer Spring, I don't know in which era there was a white deer to drink Ganquan? After splashing the statue with water, the goldfish in the spring immediately gathered around the cliff under the Buddha statue and ate the moss that had been washed away by the water, which was also a gift from the bodhisattva. Photography @ Ziyi
Hangzhou is a land of fire. On the chenghuang mountain to see the fire, Li Wei, the governor of Zhejiang during the Yongzheng period of the Qing Dynasty, made a special set of kangua stones for this purpose, placed on top of Mount Wu, and suppressed the fire. Zhou Yi kangua is water, and water extinguishes fires. But where have these stones gone now? Lu Jun said that it was buried under the Jianghuhui Pavilion, do you believe it?
The jianghu huiguan pavilion, this name carefully experienced, on the origin of this pavilion name. Photo by Zhu Pagechuan, Xiao Yisan
This road looks at the stones. If you take the bus, Yanguan Lane is in the middle of the two stations of Liubu Bridge East and Tongjiang Bridge, and you can go directly up the hill from the path. As mentioned earlier, Wushan was formed between 200 million and 2500 million years, so it produced a typical karst landform, large and small limestone texture is pure, not hard and soft, convenient for cliff inscription, like the zodiac stone, strange, with the shape of things. Lu Jun said that the small scenery of Wushan mountain is unique here, because each stone with the surrounding flowers, trees and trees is a perfect mountain small piece, moving step by step, looking at the big view on the mountain, looking for a small scene here.
The Ming Dynasty people have commented on the Ten Views of Wushan Mountain, and the Qing Dynasty has also commented on the Ten Views of Wushan Mountain, and the content of the evaluation is different, only one "Sanmao Guanchao" has been selected as ten scenic spots twice, which shows its important status. Sanmaoguan is a Taoist temple, famous and related to two people, one is the well-off king Song Gaozong Zhao, anyway, he fled from the north to Hangzhou, there are many legends about "hunting - escape", saying that it is to escape to the river wind and rain, the ship can not be driven, the golden soldiers are behind, so pray for The Three Mao jun, and then the escape is successful. Later, it was found that there was originally a Sanmao Taoist Temple left over from the Tang Dynasty on Mount Wu, and simply rebuilt the sacrifice, and later successive emperors had given the book Zhong Ding Mirror Sword and Several Pearls, so that the mountain where the Sanmao Temple was located was renamed Qibao Mountain.
Sanmaoguan Photography @ Zhu Pagechuan
In the Yuan Dynasty, the Sanmao Temple was destroyed by fire, and it was built again in the early Ming Dynasty, and it is said that there is a library in the temple, and the young Yu Qian once read here and wrote "Lime Yin" to inspire. During the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, the Sanmao Temple was demolished by the Japanese army, but its large-scale ruins have been preserved to this day, and the ponds, small bridges, stone components and nearly ten square cliff carvings have been scattered, and only one of the Remaining Ming Jiajing Eighteenth Year (1539) re-engraved Shangshu Province Muwen of The Shaoxing Temple, which became part of the "Ruins Park" built after archaeological excavations in 2008. Counting the previous first mountain and the sense of flower rock, this is already the third case of the Ming dynasty carving the Song people, cultural revival, intriguing.
▲ Zhejiang Sports Association Moya inscription, this piece of "Yunshan Wangu" is the only stone carving in modern Chinese sports, and now many children's autumn sports meetings are actually related to the sports clubs on the stone carvings of that year. Photography @ Zhu Pagechuan
Nishi-an, now the Hewu Mountain House Tea Room. Photography @ Zhu Pagechuan
Looking at the artifacts, this line is the best. The most famous verse of Wushan is actually written by Jin Ren Guanyan Liang: "Raise troops on the West Lake, and immediately the first peak of Wushan!" ”
Yu Dafu said that after several foreigners who studied Chinese literature visited Mount Wu with him, they asked him what it meant to be the first peak of Mount Wu. Once you have seen it, you know that Wushan is not the highest mountain in the West Lake, Yu Dafu can't answer for a while, he pointed to a row of ruins of the Southern Song Dynasty Forbidden City, thinking that immediately Wushan, you can see all of the Southern Song Dynasty Palace City, which is the meaning of directly pounding the Yellow Dragon. Yu Dafu was not very sure about this, "but the ruins of the Forbidden City of the Southern Song Dynasty can indeed be seen from the top of The City God Mountain or the Ziyang Mountain." However, Lu Jun said that what he saw from Ziyang Mountain or Chenghuang Mountain could only be the Southern Song Dynasty Taimiao Temple, and the Forbidden City of the Southern Song Dynasty around The Phoenix Mountain could not be seen all over Wushan.
The first peak of Wushan inscription Photography @ Zhu Pagechuan
In 1995, the excavation of the Southern Song Dynasty Taimiao Temple as one of the top ten archaeological discoveries in the country, I later heard from the people involved in archaeology that it was quite elaborately built at 90 meters and did not turn, which shows the overall scale.
Lu Jun Ziyang graduated from primary school and was very familiar with the Tongxuanguan statues in the school, and it was estimated that he might have climbed up when he was a child. This group of Sanmao Zhenjun statues are the only Taoist stone carvings in Hangzhou, three great immortals, Ruyi Xiangyun, transcendent, extraordinary.
▲The statue of Tongxuanguan hidden in the mountains behind Ziyang Elementary School. In the middle niche is the statue of Sanmao Zhenjun, in the middle is Si Ming Zhenjun, on the left is Dingzhu Zhenjun, and in the back is Baosheng Zhenjun.
▲Statue of Shifo temple (Renwang temple). Wu Zimu of the Southern Song Dynasty once wrote the ranking of temples in the Southern Song Dynasty in the fifteenth volume of the "Mengliang Record" "Temples Inside and Outside the City", when there were 486 large and small temples in Lin'an City, and the Kaibao Renwang Temple in Qibao Mountain was called the first royal temple, and even The Northern Lingyin and the Southern Jingci were ranked below it. Photography @ Ziyi
Wushan Renwang Temple, the old Hangzhou people are called Stone Buddha Temple, there are also three Standing Buddhas in the middle of the stone wall, the main statue is more than six meters high, is the highest stone carved statue in Hangzhou. However, such a large group of bodhisattva statues has no inscription records, and if you think of a mashu Gela that is as small as Baocheng Temple, you can see that the statues of the Stone Buddha Temple are incredible. I only know that the construction and excavation began in the late Wu Yueguo period, which must be related to the royal family, but why is such a large project without any clues? An unsolved mystery that can only be solved through archaeological excavations.
Wu Shan is small hidden in the forest, and Lu Jun is hidden in the city. After retirement, he left Wushan. Once when he was invited to the XiashaJu Hotel, he slipped in the shower and broke his head, and he joked that Ma Yu Ge La was blaming him for decades of worship, saying that he would leave. Jokes are jokes, go to the hospital for stitches of three or five stitches, still drink wine and eat hot pot, Ma Yu Ge La is also protecting him, not following the doctor's advice, unscathed.
After that, he went to live in Taihuyuan Shangling at the junction of Lin'an Anji for a few years, and now in a pension apartment in Fuyang, he is still living a life of poetry and wine and self-entertainment every day. Here is the Fuchun River in front, and the distant mountains in the back are faintly shadowed, as if in the mountain residence map of Huang Gongwang. His life can also be regarded as a relationship with landscapes.
In 1980, he was with the current Wu Shan Photography @ Zhang Shengxian and Ziyi
I asked him about Wushan that day, as if Guan Yinzixi was asking Lao Tzu for five thousand words. It's not that he has Lao Tzu's cattle, but because he is as undesirable as Lao Tzu. He told me repeatedly that Wu Shan had nothing to write about, but after drinking four hours of old wine, he still said a lot on and off. I think lao tzu wrote five thousand words like this.
After Lu Jun and I said this, they looked up sharply and said, Aren't you Liu Someone, you just came yesterday, why did you come again today? I said you drank too much and recognized the wrong person. He didn't believe it and said I don't have your cell phone number, you call me. I confronted him, dialed the phone to him, he looked at the phone, suddenly realized, blah, it turns out that you are Zhu Jin!
Morning exerciser at the entrance of yaowang temple photography @ talk jump
It's like a new passage in the world, so funny, laughing so much that my tears flowed out.
"Peach Blossom Fan" said, looking back at the illusion, who is opposite? - Not just talking about it.
I remembered that many years ago, when he was still in Baocheng Temple, I was drinking outside with him, and Zhu Shenghua, the treasurer of Fenglin Evening Bookstore, brought two large bottles of red yeast wine from Jiande's hometown, and that time he also drank too much, saying, You see who is behind him, and ask him to come and drink together. I looked back and there was no one. I said do you remember the way home? He said he remembered. I took a taxi to take him back to His sister's house in Daoxiangyuan, where he fell asleep. I think if he can't find the way, he will have to send him back to Mount Wu, because that's his real home.
The Three Pools of the Moon Under the Full Moon and the City God Pavilion photography @hexiang
bibliography:
[1] Liu Tao, "Range Rover from Wushan", Xiling Printing Press
[2] Bao Jing, Wushan, Zhejiang Ancient Books Publishing House
[3] Fu Yinhong, "Landscape of Geological Relics Around West Lake in Hangzhou and Its Significance"