The raw material has "poison".
The text | is verdant
Recently, the Shanghai Municipal Supervision Bureau issued an administrative penalty decision saying that Shanghai Gran Cosmetics Co., Ltd. (hereinafter referred to as Shanghai Gran) was punished for using the "NT-7WAN" raw material and the mask products with the raw material added to contain cosmetic prohibited ingredients; and the relevant personnel involved in the production and sale of the above raw materials have also been investigated.
It is worth noting that this is not the first case in which cosmetic raw material manufacturers have been filed, and this signal is also widely regarded by industry insiders as "the beginning of strict supervision of cosmetic raw materials".
Cosmetic raw materials plus hormones, raw materials dealers were filed
According to the administrative punishment document issued by the Shanghai Municipal Supervision Bureau, on September 8, 2020, during the on-site inspection at Shanghai Grant, the NT-7WAN raw materials used and the plain makeup yeast polypeptide gold mask (material body) (called egg mask (pilot test)) used by the shanghai gran were sampled, and the "NT-7WAN" raw materials were detected as "betamethasone", "betamethasone acetate" and "clobetasopropionate" ingredients, and the test results were 1.868 μg/g and 19.912 μg/ g and <0.1 μg/g; "Putsch yeast polypeptide gold mask (body)" was detected as "betamethasone acetate" component, and the test result was 0.262 μg/g.
▍Truncated from Shanghai Municipal Supervision Bureau
The "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications (2015 Edition)" clearly stipulates that betamethasone, betamethasone acetate and clobetasol propionate are all prohibited components of cosmetics. A number of R&D engineers told Blue Eye that the above 3 ingredients are glucocorticoids, and adding them to cosmetics can easily cause a "hormone face". "Long-term use of glucocorticoids on the skin will greatly reduce the skin's own immunity, and once it is stopped, the skin will enter a period of continuous inflammatory response and become hormone-dependent dermatitis." Both regulatory and scientific, glucocorticoids are prohibited. ”
According to the Shanghai Municipal Supervision Bureau, after the incident, Shanghai Grand actively carried out rectification and destroyed the remaining NT-7WAN raw materials harmlessly. Due to The use of prohibited raw materials for cosmetics by Shanghai Grand, the production of cosmetics violated the Regulations on Hygiene Supervision of Cosmetics (hereinafter referred to as the Old Regulations). In the end, the regulatory authorities imposed a penalty of "confiscating 92.5kg of the popcorn yeast polypeptide gold mask (body) of Shanghai Gran".
It is reported that this administrative penalty letter also shows the production process of NT-7WAN raw materials. According to the survey, Yang Zhen of the Institute of Biochemical Technology of Zhongcheng in Fuyang City developed a cosmetic raw material containing the new glucocorticoid clobetapropionate analogue I. in 2018, named Usol naphthalene. Song Qiyan, the actual controller of four companies, including Shanghai Makeup Yan Cosmetics Co., Ltd., Shanghai Xinglong New Material Technology Co., Ltd., Shanghai Longxin Chemical Technology Co., Ltd. (hereinafter referred to as Shanghai Longxin) and Nantong Noxin New Material Technology Co., Ltd., purchased uphenol naphthalene containing clobetasol propionate analogue I from Yang Zhen, and made cosmetic raw material NT-7WAN by adding propylene glycol and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and solubilization and dilution. And sell NT-7WAN to Shanghai Gran and other cosmetics manufacturers.
It is worth noting that Song Qiyan, head of the NT-7WAN raw material manufacturer, and Yang Zhen, the head of its upstream procurement enterprise, have been investigated by the public security organs.
▍Intercepted from the administrative penalty letter issued by the Shanghai Municipal Supervision Bureau
A number of raw material manufacturers were filed
Many R&D engineers told BlueEye that they had previously seen the promotion information of NT-7WAN raw materials released by Shanghai Longxin. According to the promotional information of this raw material, it contains claims such as "the main ingredient of NT-7WAN (INCI) is lipoic acid, lauroazol, ginkgo biloba leaf extract, phenethyl resorcinol" and "40 minutes of whitening is not a dream". It is worth mentioning that according to the national enterprise information credit publicity system, Shanghai Longxin has been included in the list of abnormal operations.
▍ Provided by respondents
▍Truncated from the National Enterprise Information Credit Publicity System
After the inquiry of blue eye in the State Food and Drug Administration, it was learned that the above-mentioned park makeup yeast polypeptide gold mask is an ordinary cosmetic. Why do ordinary cosmetics add whitening ingredients? In this regard, Pan Guangle, head of research and development of Guangzhou Shengcom Biotechnology Co., Ltd., said that since the mainland has not yet introduced a catalog of cosmetic whitening raw materials, some ordinary cosmetics will also add whitening ingredients, such as niacinamide, arbutin, etc. "It is estimated that this is also the reason why the NT-7WAN is added to the Park Makeup Yeast Polypeptide Gold Mask." According to the information on the official website of the State Food and Drug Administration, the product filing information of the above-mentioned cosmetic yeast polypeptide gold mask has been cancelled.
▍Intercepted from the State Food and Drug Administration
However, Green Eye saw another product called "Park Makeup Yeast Eggshell Mask Cream" on the official website of the Park Makeup Brand, which also contained words such as "whitening". According to the information inquiry of the cosmetics supervision APP, the product is an ordinary cosmetics. "At present, there are still many online platforms similar to this kind of rubbing edge ball." A number of industry insiders said so.
▍Cut from cosmetics supervision APP
▍Cut from the official website of the Simple Makeup brand
What is more noteworthy is that after the NT-7WAN was exposed to the problem, some engineers said, "Scared out of a cold sweat." Our factory almost used it, fortunately the customer did not finalize the final version in the end, but used it when developing the formula. ”
Some senior regulators believe that "the above-mentioned administrative penalties for Shanghai Grand are in accordance with the old regulations, and if they are in accordance with the Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics (hereinafter referred to as the new regulations), it should not be just the confiscation of materials."
According to Article 59 of the New Regulations, if the value of cosmetics illegally produced and traded is less than 10,000 yuan, the use of raw materials prohibited for the production of cosmetics is less than 10,000 yuan, and a fine of between 50,000 and 150,000 yuan will be imposed; if the value of the goods is more than 10,000 yuan, a fine of 15 times to 30 times the value of the goods will be imposed; if the circumstances are serious, they will also be ordered to stop production and stop business or ban business for life.
▍Cut from the new regulations
The above-mentioned senior regulator also said, "Regardless of whether the cosmetics manufacturer is aware of it, as long as the product adds prohibited raw materials, it will be punished accordingly." ”
Coincidentally, on December 1, 2021, Credit China released an administrative penalty information on Anhui Chuangling Cosmetics Technology Co., Ltd. (hereinafter referred to as Anhui Chuangling) showing that the cosmetic raw material "Lian Minshu" sold by Fuzhou Meilelian Biotechnology Co., Ltd. was suspected of being illegally added, and after investigation by the Fujian Provincial Drug Administration, there was evidence that some of the suspected illegally added products were sold to Anhui Chuangling.
During the inspection in Anhui, it was found that the company was entrusted with the production of Aiyin comfrey paste and did not establish and implement the purchase inspection record system and product sales record system in accordance with the provisions of the new regulations (including warehousing records, outbound inventory review and incomplete sales records). As a result, it was found that Anhui Chuangling was suspected of violating the provisions of the first paragraph of Article 31 of the new regulations and fined it 20,000 yuan.
▍ Cut the confidence to use China
Article 31 of the New Regulations clearly states that cosmetics registrants, record-filers and entrusted production enterprises shall establish and implement a system for inspection and recording the purchase of raw materials and packaging materials directly in contact with cosmetics, and a system for product sales records.
Subsequently, on December 24, 2021, the notice of the "Second Batch of Typical Cases of Drugs, Medical Devices and Cosmetics" released by the official website of the Fujian Provincial Drug Administration showed that a company was suspected of illegally adding its own self-produced "styrenmod" pharmaceutical intermediates to the children's cosmetic raw material "Lian Minshu" produced by it, and was filed for investigation on August 31, 2021, and was finally sent to the public security organs for processing.
▍Intercepted from Fujian Provincial Food and Drug Administration
A number of industry insiders said that the addition of prohibited substances by raw material manufacturers to cosmetic raw materials will not only be filed and dealt with themselves, but also "involve" downstream cosmetics manufacturers.
The field of raw materials has opened a strict supervision mode
As we all know, the source of cosmetic safety depends largely on the safety of cosmetic raw materials. Therefore, many factory leaders have said, "The procurement of raw materials should be extra cautious, and they are afraid of such a thing." ”
It is worth mentioning that guangzhou Goya Cosmetics Co., Ltd. was previously fined 43,000 yuan for the production of cosmetics that were detected as banned raw materials "hydroquinone", and the product involved was a mask that claimed to be "fine pores", at that time, engineers believed that "hydroquinone is likely to be brought in from the raw materials, and the enterprise suffered a 'muffled loss'" (for details, see "Delicate Pores" Mask Containing Whitening Prohibited Raw Materials Unjust? 》）。
Gu Yulong, R&D director of B&D Rabi Maternity and Child Products Co., Ltd., introduced to Blue Eye that usually when the factory purchases raw materials, the raw material chamber will issue a raw material test report (that is, COA), but this report only has the introduction of raw material physical and chemical projects, such as PH value, etc. There is no illegal addition. "It is difficult for factories to control themselves, because the cost of raw material inspection is too high, and factories can only choose reputable suppliers."
In addition, a number of R&D projects also said that personal experience and judgment are also important. Many engineers said, "Generally selling raw materials with anti-allergic, antipruritic, eczema and other effects, they will first try small samples and will not blindly purchase." Or wait until someone else has used it for two or three years. In addition, some industry insiders believe that "if there is a problem with the same raw material of multiple production enterprises, it is most likely the problem of the raw material manufacturer." If only one or two companies have problems with raw materials, it may not be a problem for raw material manufacturers. ”
Two cases of raw material manufacturers being investigated in succession have also attracted widespread attention from industry insiders. Some insiders believe that "this may be a signal of 'strict management of raw materials' released by the regulatory authorities." ”
At present, the raw material submission code has been launched, and under the operation of the system, the traceability of cosmetics will become more convenient. Some industry insiders said: "In the past, the regulatory authorities were a 'point' spot check, and after sampling a product, only one factory and its associated raw material suppliers could be supervised or punished, but after the raw material submission code, the regulatory authorities could quickly find all the cosmetics manufacturers and products involved that used the raw materials through the relevant enterprises of this raw material." It can be said that it has been upgraded from a 'point' of supervision to a 'net' of supervision."
It is obvious that while the regulatory upgrade is at the same time, the essence is also to accelerate the process of "good money expelling bad money" in the cosmetics industry, and ultimately create a more level playing field.
1999 yuan / year became a personal member of BlueEye Intelligence, and industry intelligence was little known. Click here for BlueEye Intelligence Members