Looking at the history of the development of Chinese national costume civilization, it can be found that foreign costume factors can often interact and communicate in the Central Plains, and han costumes are advancing day by day. The professional costumes of the common people in the Central Plains have been influenced by the superiority genes of Hufu since the Qin and Han dynasties. To the Northern Song Dynasty, the prosperity and development of various industries put forward requirements for the upgrading of professional clothing integration Hufu genes, narrow, lightweight, round neck and crotch short clothes and with long boots in the creation of Traditional Chinese wisdom further interacted with the Han costume crown, integration and reconstruction, with a harmonious and freehand appearance of a more advanced cultural, practical, scientific, professional and other attributes, to achieve the first mature construction of civilian professional clothing in Chinese history, that is, "Hundred Works and Hundred Clothes". Based on the need for its cognition, inheritance and development, this study has made in-depth excavation and sorting out of the genetic sequences such as colors, materials, shapes, processes, systems and their construction processes, especially exploring their construction paths and methods.
Civilian professional costumes such as soldiers, farmers, workers, and merchants are the most social part of the costumes of the lower social classes, and they reflect the order norms of social composition and the mainstream will of the ruling class, carrying the information of economic and cultural exchanges and the civilization condensation of social development and changes. The professional costumes of the northern Song Dynasty civilians were at the peak stage of the development of industry and commerce in feudal society, and achieved the grand situation of "hundreds of workers and hundreds of clothes", and their various lines of clothing had different differences and distinct signs, as recorded in the "Tokyo Dream Hualu" mentioned above: "It is said that the incense shop is wrapped in incense, that is, the top hat is draped; the quality bank is in charge, that is, wearing soap shirts, corner belts, and not wearing hats." Pedestrians in the market will recognize who it is. "Compared with the sui, tang, five dynasties and other previous dynasties contain more rich value information, the value of historical research and practical reference is greater."
In ancient China, ordinary people were almost forced to have a skill for subsistence or forced to do so, and their daily activities were basically based on various industries, so their daily attire was mostly professional. Based on this, we can further understand the shape of their professional costumes from the descriptions of the daily people's costumes contained in the historical documents.
The Xunzi Fuguo Chapter says: "The Heavenly Son Zhu Gong is crowned, and the princes Xuan Gong are crowned." The doctor wears a crown, and the priest wears a benefactory. The "Tang Dynasty" ordered the exiles and the shu people not to wear Aya, Luo, Silk and five-colored thread boots and shoes. The provisions of the "colored clothes are not more than twelve broken, and the colored clothes are not more than six broken" has clear materials and quantity restrictions on the civilians. The Song Shi Youfu V records: "In the second year of Duan Gong (989 AD), zhaoxian town officials and shu people, merchants, tricks, and people who were not official, were only allowed to wear soap, white clothes, iron, and horn belts, and were not allowed to wear purple. ...... The turban is no more than two inches and five minutes high from now on. It is also written: "In the third year of Emperor Renzong's reign (1025 AD), he decreed: 'In Jingshishu, you must not wear black and brown clothes with white flowers and blue, yellow, and purple patterns...'... In the first year of Jingyou (1034 AD), it was forbidden to have brocade backs, embroidered backs, and colorful satins everywhere... In the third year (1036 AD), 'the house of the subjects did not have to collect deer tires to make crowns. It can be seen that the costumes of different classes in feudal society are equal, and the control of the common people is strict. After the Qin and Han dynasties, the common people were known as "white clothes". White clothes, "obviously refer to clothing without any decorations", officials who are often dismissed from office are often called "white bodies", that is, they take off their gorgeous official uniforms. The "Spring and Autumn Prosperity and Clothing System" records the rule that "scattered people do not dare to serve miscellaneous colors", which shows that civilian clothing can only be made of monotonous colors. "Poetry Sutra and Feng Feng" Yun: "Without clothes and brown, why do you die?" It is pointed out that the "brown" made of coarse linen fabric or coarse wool fabric is the daily clothing of the common people, and the rough wool fabric and ge hemp in the pre-Qin period are commonly used materials for civilians. Moreover, the ancient people also had a difference between good and bad. "Untouchables, that is, those who are 'not collected by the four peoples,' that is, people other than the four peoples of soldiers, farmers, workers, and merchants, especially those who are subordinate to servants and advocate excellence." On the contrary, it can be understood that soldiers, farmers, workers, and merchants are good people. Not only are there great differences in the costumes of the officials and the people, but the differences in the costumes of the good and the lowly are also distinct. The robes made by King Wen of Zhou, which are above the knees, are called "bad clothes", which are "the clothes of good people" and "the unworthy people cannot be obeyed"; corresponding to them are "the clothes of the cooks, the clothes of the disciples, take them to facilitate the use of ears". It can be seen that the differences in the shape of different costumes are obvious due to the differences in the form of good and lowly, and the dress of people with low status is even more convenient.
The "Small Biography of Deep Clothes" written by Jin Luxiang, a beginner in the late Song dynasty and Yuan Dynasty, believes that the shape of deep clothes meets the requirements of the "rules and regulations" of the "Zhou Li" and should be encouraged to be passed on in the folk; the Northern Song Dynasty literary scholar Zhang Shunmin recorded in the "Record of Paintings" that his brother was criticized for wearing a "soap shirt and gauze hat": "Ru is a lifter, and An de is the dress of this person." When for the white quilting in the webbing also. "This highlights the role of clothing as a tool of etiquette, and civilian professional clothing must also be subordinated to this value." Therefore, clothing has the value of etiquette, which is where the values of the Han people lie. It can be seen that civilian professional clothing is first based on practical functional guarantees, and then it is etiquette maintenance.
Comparison of the costumes of the lower and the scholars (left: part of the "Spring Feast Map", southern Song Dynasty anon. collection, beijing Palace Museum collection; right: "Ten Kings Map" three years and five ways the wheel king, partial, Southern Song Dynasty, Lu Xinzhong, Japan Nara National Museum collection)
Through the comparison of this picture, it can be seen that the lower people and scholars of the same civilian class had stricter dress standards in the Song Dynasty, and the differences in color, material, and form of their clothing were distinct. On the left is the lower person, who wears the "soap shirt and yarn hat"; on the right side is a number of scholars with different colors, of which the two people in the middle of the row wear white linen clothes, that is, "white silk shirt, tie the webbing".
"Yunlu Manhua" has clouds: "Covered in the national dynasty hat but not a towel, although Yanju is draped, it is also a hat, otherwise it is a small crown." Between propaganda and government, people are the first to be scarfed. During the Yuan Dynasty, Sima Wengong and Mr. Yichuan began to cut the soap bun with a weak and evil wind, and at that time, it was only called Wengong hat and Yichuan hat, and there was no name for the towel. To cross the river, he wears a purple shirt, and the number is to wear a shirt and a scarf, and the gongqing soap is subordinate to Lu Yan's untouchable husband. It can be seen that the turban of the Song Dynasty was a fashion and also popularized among the civilian professional class.
Among the civilian professional costumes, there is also a rapidly developing shape style, that is, hufu. Since the Beginning of the Southern and Northern Dynasties of the Wei and Jin Dynasties, various occupational classes have become popular in the way of wearing Beard-like hucoats with long pants and crotches with crotches and crotches and boots. From a large number of heirloom paintings and excavated cultural relics, it can be seen that the round neck narrow sleeve crotch shirt and trousers derived from the Hu costume, the professional suit with the black leather boots and the head was very common in the Tang Dynasty, and it was also popular in the Song Dynasty. The Tokyo Dream Record also has a record of the application of the Hufu element of "green narrow shirts, green pants, and brocade ropes" in the costumes of the Guards of the Song Dynasty (cyan was often used in Hu clothes during this period, and narrow body clothing was used by Hu people). It can be seen that in the civilian professional costumes of feudal society, the Hu elements occupy half of the sky. From the examples of attendant costumes listed in the following table, it is possible to understand the existence of the image of the bearded clothing such as the pleated style of the left tunic with trousers, the round neck crotch shirt, the narrow sleeve shorts, the leather belt, the small pants, and the leather boots that survived in various dynasties in the civilian profession. The "Mengxi Pen Talk" sums up: "The Chinese clothing crown, since the Northern Qi, has been all in Hufu. ”
The hu costume element in the professional costume of the attendant
Since the Qin and Han Dynasties, although civilian professional costumes have undergone various changes, their overall appearance is still monotonous and strictly limited compared with official uniforms. Its color is dull, the material is rough, and the shape system is different from good and low, but it also reflects the order of etiquette, and at the same time, the Hu and Han elements are blended and diversified.
In the Northern Song Dynasty, each profession developed rapidly, reaching "one hundred and twenty lines", and under the management of industry organizations such as "line", "regiment", "work", "association" and "society", more fierce competition was carried out with industry and commerce as the core. Therefore, based on the different management requirements of various organizations, professional clothing actively explores the direction of clear identification and efficiency first, further absorbs and digests the Hu elements with practical convenience as the advantage, and presents the deep traces of the path of Hu Han integration. The comparison of the shapes and systems shown in the following table can not only feel the overall characteristics of the narrow-sleeved short clothes of the commoners, but also understand the change process from "Hu-Han fusion" to "Hu-Han integration" through the comparison of examples, and witness that the etiquette elements can also be implemented like official uniforms in the professional costumes of Chinese civilians.
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