Wen Speaking Softly Tiemenkan Wind Moon Talk (Chen Xin)
Yukihara ed
(Liu Yueping in 2006)
Feng yue talked about Leshan City for more than 20 years, the most favorite place to go, is Zhanggong Bridge, here, left countless youth marks of Feng Yue Talk, in the mind of Feng Yue Talk, Zhang Gong Bridge is the benchmark of Leshan City Well Taste.
In the Ming Dynasty, Leshan, out of the High North Gate, is out of the city, and later the Qing Dynasty repaired the Jiale Gate, but outside the High North Gate, it is still farmland and wilderness. When the ancients went west, they had to pass through Zhan'e Gate (Gao Ximen) and go north alone to Ying'en Gate (Gao BeiMen).
Zhanggong Bridge, for more than three hundred years, is the first landmark building after moving north from the direction of Gaobeimen. Looking at the map of Leshan County in the "Jiading FuZhi" of the third year of Tongzhi, there are only a few place names in the urban area, including ZhanggongQiao, which shows its status. Further on, across the Min River, is The Mouzi Field.
(Zhang Gongqiao is prominently marked in the "Chronicle of Jiading Province" in the third year of Tongzhi)
As for the history of Zhanggongqiao Street, it is even later, looking through the Republic of China version of the "Leshan County Chronicle" Leshan County inside and outside the city, there is no record of Zhanggongqiao Street, the middle of Shengshui Street and the camp gate, marked is ZhugongXikou, the camp gate further north, is Yanwu Street, to Qingshen County.
Mao Xuelin researched that in 1994, the Leshan Grand Market was built, and the original Hengjiezi was rebuilt from the bridgehead of Zhanggongqiao to Binjiang Road, which gave Zhanggongqiao Street its current appearance.
In other words, the history of Zhanggongqiao is much older than That of Zhanggongqiao Street.
Talk about Zhang Gongqiao, talk from these points.
(From a distance, Zhang Gongqiao, Liu Yueping, photographed in 2005)
First, Zhang Gongqiao is a conscience blockbuster of Gule Mountain.
Zhang Nenglin, as a generation of able officials, looked at the history of Leshan, all of which have a strong account of it, he was born in 1617, a native of Beijing, served as a senator of the Sichuan Cloth Administration, and guarded the southern province of Shangchuan, and has since intersected with Leshan. When Zhang Nengfeng took office, it was after decades of war in the Ming and Qing dynasties, at this time in Jiazhou, "the dishes of the people are not talking about life", everyone can't eat enough, the natural face is very poor, not to mention what spirit.
Zhang Nenglin served in Leshan for nine years and was one of the most diligent officials in Leshan's history.
When he took office in 1661, he did several great things.
The first thing is that the new official took office with three fires. Organize squires and citizens to donate to refugees, and ask their superiors to reduce taxes in Leshan, which allows the people of Jiazhou to survive and live in peace.
The second thing is to boost morale and teach and educate people. He rebuilt the Xuegong Palace, built a school, built the Minglun Hall (Lecture Hall), built the Gaobiao Academy in history on Gaobiao Mountain, and personally established a chapter system for the Academy, using his spare time to go to the Academy as a visiting professor, and he also donated his salary, bought 800 scrolls of ancient books on the history of the Scriptures, and gave them to the Zunjing Pavilion of the Temple of Literature. Under his attention, Leshan Education has made a good reputation after the war, and has achieved good results in scientific examinations for several consecutive years.
The third thing is to vigorously promote water conservancy and benefit the people. After the Niute Weir in the area of Sujiyang Bay was washed away by the flood, in the absence of construction funds, he took the lead in donating rice and stones, overcame many difficulties, rebuilt the Niute Weir, and irrigated thousands of acres. The people were grateful and asked to be renamed Zhang Gongyan. Zhang Nenglin also presided over the construction of the Nanmu Weir in Angu Township, which has been used to this day.
The fourth thing is to attach importance to history and compile the "Chronicle of Jiading Prefecture". This book is an important document for understanding the allusions of historical figures in the mountains and rivers of Leshan. Zhang Nenglin liked Leshan too much, and named Mount Emei the first mountain in China, writing that "the famous mountain of Uchi is four, and Eju one, five Yue Mo and contend for the first."
(Three bridge holes in Zhanggong Bridge)
The fifth thing is to repair the Zhanggong Bridge.
This bridge is located 100 meters upstream of the Zhugong Creek into the Min River. In ancient times, there was a ferry, and there should also be a bridge, and the Ming Dynasty martial arts field was set up on the northeast bank of the creek, otherwise how to cross the river to practice martial arts.
Before Zhang Gong repaired the bridge, it was estimated that it used to be a wooden bridge, and after a long time, it was broken. There is a record of this in the "Chronicle of Leshan County": This is the provincial road, the back and forth is like weaving, Zhang Neng scales to repair the bridge, several months of work, magnificent and firm, can hang forever, known as Zhang Gong Bridge.
Zhang Nengfeng collapsed the first time he built the bridge, and it is said that the bridge in the past was close to the mouth of the river (the mouth of the river is the mouth of the Zhugong Creek). In other words, the site of the present bridge is upstream of the old site of the bridge.
(River mouth, Zhugong Creek into the river, Wang Jingchuan photo)
The completed Zhanggong Bridge, with a total length of 37.3 meters, a width of 8.68 meters, a height of 8.1 meters, a span of 7.65 meters per arch, a pier length of 16.8 meters (there is a fish mouth in the upper and lower reaches of the water), a stone pier width of 2.4 meters, a height of 1.6 meters, under the bridge is a stone paved seabed, and its water-facing point is an arch to block the water potential, and the downstream is a ladder or water walk.
The zhishu says that Zhang Gongqiao is magnificent and firm, and it is very fair to hang forever, and it has been more than 300 years, and dozens of tons of large trucks have been unobstructed.
The construction of Zhanggong Bridge shows that China's ancient bridges, more than three hundred years ago, have successfully mastered the technology of arch bridges to prevent erosion in the riverbed prone to erosion.
Zhang Gong was an outstanding representative of the ancient liang officials of Leshan, and his contribution was great.
Zhang Gongqiao condensed the people's hearts of Leshan for more than three hundred years.
In 1965, Leshan County decided to change Zhanggong Bridge to Sandong Bridge (one said to be changed to Revolutionary Bridge), and haotu changed its name once. The Leshan people did not take this seriously at all, and still called Zhang Gongqiao.
The will of the people should not be violated.
For those who are officials, they should take Zhang Gong as an example.
Second, the concentration of landmark buildings.
Zhanggong Bridge is an important landmark of Leshan, and what is more important is that after liberation, many landmark buildings of Leshan City at that time quickly emerged around. This should have something to do with the location of the transportation hub of Zhanggong Bridge.
Holy Water Street, which is a short section from ZhangGongqiao to Wenxuan Bookstore today, can also be regarded as in the Zhanggongqiao area. The reason why Holy Water Street is unforgettable is that this street has several iconic buildings. The most famous are the Leshan Film Theater, and the earlier Leshan Bus Station and the Workers' Club.
(Photo by Fang Changzhe)
The Leshan Film Theater was completed in 1962, and the cultural troupe where Fang Changzhe worked was in the theater. There is a shaved head stall opposite the movie theater, the business has been OK, it is an old-fashioned seat, it is a relatively large barber shop in Leshan, next to an old tea house, a sweet shop, a unit community, there is an ancient soap pod tree of more than three hundred years, almost died a few years ago, and now it is said to be full of vitality, around this ancient tree, ancient farmland, ancient trees witnessed the rise and fall of Zhang Gongqiao.
At Fang Changzhe's home, Feng Yuetan saw a lot of old photos of Zhang Leshan Film Theater, at that time, Fang Changzhe's family lived here and liked to take photos here.
(In front of Leshan Film Theater, fang Changzhe filmed)
The old Leshan Station, opened in 1953, is located directly opposite today's Chuanzhongsi Lane and is the grandfather-level elder of all the current Leshan bus stations. In 1962, Xu Min was in the fifth grade of primary school, and the first time he went to Chengdu, he arrived at the station at 6:30 in the morning, went to Chengdu for more than 160 kilometers, and had to run for most of the day.
The workers' clubs are much more grand than the old stations, and every Saturday, the clubs hold dances, and the cadres of the organs and units, the teachers of the nearby schools, come here to dance. Many of the ladies on the dance floor wear cheongsam, light lipstick, and curved thin eyebrows.
(Jiading Hotel, Fang Changzhe photographed in the 1980s)
Zhanggong Bridge, as well as the famous Jiading Hotel of that year, is also a landmark building. From this old photo, the left side of the picture goes to half the street, and the right side of the picture goes to the Sunshine Square, this antique building, completed in 1968, demolished and rebuilt in 2002.
Later, Leshan's most famous karaoke was also opened here, not ordinary people can consume, Leshan celebrity one of the three fat people Liu Zhiqin opened, to the mid-1990s, Jiading Hotel also opened a flop machine, Taiwanese to open, Jiatai Entertainment City is here. These flop machines have harmed many people, and some civil servants have embezzled public funds and planted them in this entertainment city.
Chen Ping analyzed that the left side of this photo used to be the head of Zhang Gongqiao Bridge, and then went to the house on the left side of the photo to go a little further to the photo, that is, the famous blood Wangzi and the very soup shop.
Third, Zhang Gongqiao's regret.
In 1967, after the opening of the Beimen Bridge, the only Jinliang status of Zhanggong Bridge to the north was gone. Baiyangba, which used to be only the vegetable base of Leshan City, has rapidly developed and grown. As an important passage of Zhanggong Bridge, less than 9 meters wide, has not been able to meet the demand, in the early nineties of the last century, the construction of Zhanggong Bridge market, the expansion of the new bridge into the planning, in the old bridge downstream about 10 meters to build a bridge, the bridge was only half built, some people invested in the construction of the Moruo shopping mall, just the unbuilt southwest bank blocked, so that the bridge was abandoned halfway, this abandoned bridge for a long time as a barbecue stall business point, after the flood in 2019, a leader on the bridge fluttered, this "illegal construction" was demolished.
(Liu Yueping in 2005)
By 2003, the authorities planned to widen the bridge.
In order to protect the history of Zhanggong Bridge, Wang Jian called for the new and old bridges to be separated from each other to form a "double rainbow flying ferry", for which Wang Jian and Deng Biqing conducted an investigation, reflected the situation to the head of the department at that time, and specially wrote to the mayor, helpless people whispered lightly, when the new bridge was built, cut off the watershed fish mouth upstream of the old bridge, and directly spliced with reinforced cement and antique stone bridges, from then on, the Zhanggong Bridge in the sense of cultural relics no longer exists.
Wang Jianjian, in 1917, the Republic of China, the two sides of the guardrail were completely destroyed, the railing was rebuilt, the two sides were mistakenly built by red sand strips of stone, the finished word was a row, the four heads of the guardrail were columns, about 1.6 meters high, the upper and lower were chess-like round ballasts, the upper fence was carried by four small stone lion shoulders, and the top was the relief of the national emblem of the Republic of China - the twelve-pointed star. In 1967, when the "Four Olds" were broken, workers in a nearby factory took a sledgehammer and smashed four pillars and changed them to slope-shaped strips of stone. The name was also changed from ZhangGongqiao to Revolutionary Bridge.
What is frustrating is that the wars and chaos during the Republic of China and the destruction of the four old after liberation did not destroy the ancient Zhanggong Bridge as a whole, but they were easily destroyed in contemporary times.
If Zhang Gong had a spirit underground, he might have to write an article to be included in the local history to criticize.
Fourth, the city taste of Zhang Gongqiao.
In 1965, Li Xiuwen, a foreigner who was less than 20 years old, came to Leshan, and half a lifetime of memories were related to the city.
When he first arrived in Leshan, he got off at the old bus station in Zhanggongqiao. I met a Leshan girl, and the couple had set up their home in a wooden house next to Zhang Gongqiao, a very simple house, but full of concubines.
After Li Xiuwen retired, he went to Shanghai with his daughter to live, and he was separated from Leshan for 15 years, and last year he returned to Leshan to find the old photos of Zhang Gongqiao's wooden house.
(Fang Changzhe photographed in the 1970s)
Fang Changzhe's old photo of Zhang Gongqiao taken in the early 1970s happens to show the wooden house where Li Xiuwen and his wife once lived.
Li Xiuwen found Fang Changzhe. Fang Changzhe recalled: At that time, I was living in the Leshan Film Theater, so it was very convenient, crossing the street was Zhang Gongqiao, which was made of 120 film, remember that it was a photo taken by the Yangtze River brand camera.
Wang Jian analyzed that this old photo of Zhang Gongqiao is after 1971, because the moon platform in the lower right of the picture was repaired after the rectification of Zhang Gongqiao in 1971, and the two-story building on the upper left was also a large public toilet before.
Wang Jian, a cultural person in Leshan, also grew up in Zhanggongqiao.
How Zhang Gongqiao played back then, Wang Jian said that it was vivid and vivid.
As soon as the opening spring semester came to school, Wang Jian and his male classmates made an appointment to go to Zhang Gongqiao to "pull" fish. When they got to the bottom of the bridge, they tied the fishing tackle (made by the pin) bolted on the cotton thread to the chopsticks and stood on the ridge under the bridge. Hook on the rice or maggots, thrown into the water, that kind of surface water fish will come in groups to grab food, generally can pull more than a dozen, sometimes happy not to pay attention, a butt to sit down on the wet body, had to sit bare ass on the shore to dry pants, otherwise go home to be beaten comfortably.
(Guy Le Querrec, 1984, near Zhang Gongqiao)
(Guy Le Querrec's 1984 photo of Zhang Gongqiao releasing ducks.)
(Guy Le Querrec's 1984 photograph of Zhang Gongqiao selling brine pig's trotters)
In the winter, every family has to make salt dishes, grandma asked Wang Jian and his cousin to go to Zhanggong Bridge to wash vegetables, the water is very stingy, and you can only go barefoot, put the vegetables on the edge of the pier called the fish mouth, wash while nagging, fantasize about not washing vegetables when you grow up. Wang Jian asked his cousin what his biggest wish was when he grew up, and he said that with money, he wanted to buy all the canned food in all the stores in Leshan and taste it, and at that time the canned food was the most advanced food, and only the American soldiers in the movie ate it.
In winter, when I go to wash things under the Zhanggong Bridge, the happiest and most schadenfreude thing is to watch women boil water. Women generally wash large things such as quilt mosquito nets, are standing at the bottom of the river, facing downstream to clear, shake, swing, because the quilt or mosquito net drag water heavy, when they lift up, the foot will slip down and wet, which will cause passers-by to laugh.
One summer, a middle-aged man surnamed Zhao actually moved an 18-pound catfish, and since then he has been talking about it for many years.
(Li Shuquan photographed in the 1980s)
Zhanggong Bridge encountered a major flood, it was about to be flooded, those three bridge holes, is the scale of rising water, when the water rose every year, Leshan Pharmaceutical Factory organized more than a dozen death squads to go to the Zhanggong Bridge Riverside residents to save people, many people participated. This old photo, at the exit of Zhugong Creek under Zhanggong Bridge, was taken standing by the river and heading out of the city. In the 1980s, there was a particularly large flood, the water depth on the Zhanggong Bridge was more than 1 meter, the water depth of the residents near the river in Zhanggong Bridge was more than two meters, and the rescue commando team swam to the place where the residents were, and each family went to find the trapped households.
(Photo by Lan Xinming, the 2020 flood inundated Zhanggong Bridge)
At that time, the community designated the rescue and flood control area of the heroes of Leshan Pharmaceutical Factory, which is the location where many people now see the red-chewed birds in Zhanggongqiao.
Fifth, Zhang Gongqiao's cuisine.
Lao ZhanggongQiao has three things that are not easy for Leshan people to forget, namely Wang'er soup, Mao Liang powder and public toilets.
(Zhang Gongqiao on the left, Xincun Slope on the right, Xiang Lejun photographed in the 1980s)
The service company is the most famous place where Zhang Gongqiao bought blood wangzi and fat intestine soup.
Xiang Lejun recalled that at the head of the Zhang Gong bridge, a large cauldron simmered the blood wang'er steaming, and a bowl of lard floated in the middle of the pot. In winter, you should put a bowl of Wang'er soup, put some sea pepper oil and pepper noodles, sprinkle some green onions, and finally use the small scoop in the middle bowl of the pot to drop a little lard into the Wang'er soup, and the taste is hard to put.
That bloody family is five cents a bowl, which is the common memory of Old Leshan.
Mao liang powder sells hot cold powder, the bowl head should put a scoop of spicy watercress, but also add pepper sprouts and coriander, after a big meal, often the tongue pieces of pepper hemp can not be turned around.
(Xiang Lejun photographed in the 1980s)
After Mao Xipan, a local master of literature and history, excitedly took this photo with Xiang Lejun, he pointed to a building on the left side of the bridge and said that the public toilet of Zhang Gongqiao should be older than the history of the public toilet in Daqukou.
Just crossed the ZhangGong Bridge, it is the almost pristine public toilet, and now the big market is the former one-street office, where Geng Lesheng handles the marriage registration.
Feng Yue talked often to Zhang Gongqiao, from 2003 to 2010. There are a few snacks that I still remember as delicious.
The first one is the Xiong family po spicy hot, those years think this spicy hot is tireless.
The second home, is Zhang Gongqiao Bridgehead an old couple selling fried, there is a fragrant sweetness, the first time to go, is the girl who liked a bank to bring to eat, and then did not get together, never went again.
The third is MSG noodles. Supper not only eat noodles, but also a variety of brine dishes, the previous boss surname Wei, and Feng Yue talked about a friend is a classmate, there is a period of time with Boss Wei in ZhangGongqiao to pull cards, drink together, Boss Wei's daughter graduated from college, Boss Wei transferred the business so hot restaurant, no longer have to stay up late.
The fourth is yi yuan old noodle restaurant. In those years, every time I drank too much wine at night, I went to this noodle restaurant to get a bowl of tomato omelette noodles, and at one time I thought it was the best omelette noodles in Leshan. This noodle shop was opened by high school classmate Rocar's family, and I was a regular visitor to his mother's noodle shop in Angu more than twenty years ago. The most important thing is that he has now tricked another of my high school female classmates, opened this shop as a mom-and-pop shop, and in recent days, the festival, business is very good, these two people stay up late until after seven o'clock in the morning to go home.
(Cow Noodle Restaurant, photo by Xiang Lejun)
The fifth, is the cow noodle restaurant, the drink has not been drunk in place, go to this noodle restaurant, come to a bowl of doubles, and then shout a cage of rib steamer or fat sausage steamer, and you can drink a few bottles of frozen beer. In those years, you can also park randomly, the cow noodle restaurant is at the intersection of the intersection, and the car in front of you is parked a lot, so you know whether Zhang Gongqiao's business is good tonight.
There is also a red soup pork rib noodles, which is also OK, but unfortunately it is fried. Not as good as the rib noodles of shiyuan dong tian noodle house and Haitang Road Maoji.
There is also hoof flower soup, which was once my first choice to go to Zhang Gongqiao alone. A bowl is not addictive, just eat half of a bowl, shout another bowl.
There is also Jingwu duck neck, there is a supper opposite, the first two years and junior high school Chinese teacher Liang Zhixiong were nearly thirty years later, here for the first time to drink, two people drank almost a beer, Liang Zhixiong's face drank red, a strong said, wind and moon talk about this number do not stop, to continue to write, the teacher gives you praise.
(Guo Zhiquan, Zhang Gongqiao, 1960s)
Lingjun recalled that his family lived in the school at the junction of Box Street and Temple Abduction. In the winter, the fog was thick and the cold was compelling, and the younger brother and sister wanted to eat ZhangGongqiao's Wangzi, and Lingjun, who was less than seven years old, had to get up when it was still dark, hike from Box Street to Zhanggongqiao Bridge, buy 5 cents of pig blood, and hold it in a small bucket. Along the way, the shadows are lonely, the cool breeze hits the sleeves, one foot high, one stumbles low, and throws the small cross, the big cross, and the East Wind Hotel backwards. In the thick morning fog, I vaguely saw the flickering lights, heard the roar, and finally arrived at the mouth of Zhanggong Bridge.
(Zhang Gongqiao, wang jiaqi painting)
At this time, a hot air rushed in, there were too many people in line, and Lingjun lined up at the end of the line, slowly moving forward. A kind voice wafted in: Good boy, how much did you play? Hit you first!
"Five points." When Lingjun took the small bucket containing pig's blood and looked at the swaying blood flowers in the bucket, the sky was already numb, and he thought of his younger brothers and sisters who were eager for this delicacy, but his heart was extremely happy.
Zhang Gongqiao's cuisine used to have a soul.
Just like Zhang Gongqiao, he once had a soul.
Special thanks: Wang Jian's works "Zhang Nenglin and Zhang Gongqiao", "Zhang Gongqiao, the Story That Has to Be Said", Xiang Lejun's work "Photographic Life", Xu Min, Tang Changshou's works, Fang Changzhe, Xiang Lejun, Liu Yueping, take photos, and Feng Yue talks about the memories of friends. Unsigned image source network