Original: David Shaw

Compilation: Breeze Hanying

Bird photography is not easy. Birds are fast-moving objects when you see it, and most of the time, they may hide in trees. The closer you get, the better the chances of the bird disappearing. So what should you do? We hope this article answers some of your questions.

How to Become a Bird Photographer?

For the past 25 years, I've been chasing birds as an observer, scientist, and photographer. In photography, all the aspects I'm obsessed with come together: natural history, science, technology, and art. Each one is just as important as the others.

Like any discipline, the more you learn about the subject, the better the images you'll get.

For bird photography beginners, all the different aspects can seem daunting. So here, I'd like to break down this theme into a series of bird photography tips for newbies.

This article is about people who are just starting to photograph birds. But for experienced photographers, you can also refer to them if you are interested.

Bird photography equipment

Equipment is probably one of the most interesting and bothersome aspects of bird photography.

A huge telephoto lens allows you to take a beautiful picture as an indispensable tool.

But for Nikon and Canon, the price of high-end glass will be comparable to that of used cars.

camera

While the price and quality of a good camera body may be the same as a lens, in my opinion, the choice of body is much larger than that of lenses.

Large professional-grade DSLR or mirrorless cameras can compete with the most expensive glass. Entry-level digital cameras from major manufacturers like Canon, Nikon, Sony, and others are much cheaper, but still produce beautiful images. So what is the best camera for bird photography? To photograph birds, choose a camera with a good burst speed, which is the one that can record the most images in a short period of time. Also, look for a camera with good autofocus performance. Of course, the body also needs better lenses to improve focus speed and accuracy.

One thing to point here is that choosing full or half-frame is not the key to choice. For example, the APS-C or M4/3 system will increase the focal length of the telephoto lens, saving you money and at the same time bringing greater magnification.

If you're planning to invest heavily for this, it's a bit of caution. Based on market conditions and past experience, even an entry-level bird photography device will smoke your wallet.

You can go to more forums to see, or you can try to consider renting equipment or borrowing someone else's equipment to get familiar with it before buying. All in all, having a camera that can help you take better images is one of the best bird photography tips we can offer.

lens

Trying to capture a bird from a distance with a wide-angle lens is impossible. You need a different lens or a multifunction lens to cover most, if not all, of the possible distances.

Large, high-end glass produced by companies such as Nikon and Canon can cost more than $10,000 (US). The price is crazy.

But there are plenty of affordable options on the market. Try buying the applicable telephoto lens, you can lower your budget.

Take a look at 3rd-party footage from companies like Sigma and Tamron. Or choose panasonic and Olympus M4/3 systems and match the corresponding lenses. These may be more affordable.

The quality of the lens glass may be more important than the length. This is a great tip when it comes to how to photograph birds. In other words, using a high-quality 200mm or 300mm lens works better than using a poor-quality 600mm lens. Defects in glass and design become more pronounced in telephoto lenses.

• 70-200 mm: This is the wider side of bird and wildlife photography. But the professional-grade 70-200 f2.8 lens costs as much as the mid-range 150-600 lens. Most manufacturers will produce lenses in the 70-200mm focal length, so there are many options. A good 70-200mm f2.8 can be paired with a 1.4x or 2x teleconverter without significantly degrading the quality. Don't overlook the shorter focal length. This photo was taken with 70-200 mm f/2.8 and 1.4 teleconverters (280 mm in total).

• 150-600mm: This zoom range is a new contribution to telephoto zoom. There are now several different lenses with prices ranging from $1,200 to $2,000. Manufacturers Sigma and Tsunosa dominate this focal length range.

• 100-400mm: Canon's 100-400mm and Nikon's 80-400mm are two very common bird photographic lenses. More compact and lighter, they are a good choice. While not cheap, their prices are far from large telephoto primes.
• 300mm: There are several very good 300mm lenses to choose from. In general, a fixed-focus long lens (300mm f4) is sharper than a zoom lens, while the f2.8s is sharper. When used with M 4/3 or APS-C sensors, they provide sufficient magnification for bird photography.
• 400mm, 500mm, or 600mm: Fast telephoto prime lenses (usually f4) in this range are expensive. And the quality is superior. Canon and Nikon dominate this range. If you can afford it, they are the tool of choice for photographing wildlife and birds. When used with teleconverters, the range and quality are unmatched.

tripod

A good tripod is very useful if you use a long lens. Large lenses need support to create sharp images and make them comfortable to use.

A shoddy tripod, coupled with a cheap gimbal, troubles more than it's worth. Make sure your tripod is sturdy, the head is smooth and locks firmly.

Inspection, careful inspection and triple inspection, especially the quick release plate.

The last thing you want to see is see thousands of dollars worth of camera equipment fall off and fall to the cement floor. (I've been there and it sucks.) Make sure it doesn't happen to you. ）

If you're using a large ultra-telephoto lens, consider using a gimbal head. This will make it easier to pan and move the lens.

Handheld shooting from the deck of a moving ship requires a lot of shooting to get good composition and sharp images. (f/8, ISO 200, 500mm, 1/1250 sec.)

Bird knowledge is an important foundation for improving your photography

Now, I want you to forget about the photographic equipment for a while. Equipment is important, but it's even more important to have a deep understanding of birds and bird behavior.

If you don't know how and where to find your prey, it doesn't matter if your lens is as long as your legs.

If you're new to bird photography, you'll be content to shoot locally at first. Or even the birds in your back garden.

But no matter where you plan to shoot, a little bird knowledge will help you choose the right location.

For example, the characteristics of bird habitats, the time of day when birds are most active, and the time when birds may exhibit interesting behaviors. These are all important areas to understand.

As you venture farther away, the more you learn about birds, the easier your job will be. If you want to photograph specific species, you need to know where and when they appear.

At some new filming locations, you need to know when the birds are there. Want to photograph the migration of dune cranes in Alaska? If you get there in October, a month after the birds fly south, you'll be very disappointed.

Learn to predict bird behavior

Spend enough time observing and studying birds, and you'll learn how to predict their behavior. When they're about to sing, call, or fly, you'll be able to perceive them in advance.

You'll be able to predict when of the day seabirds might return from foraging, or the arrival time of the first migratory songbirds in the spring after a long winter, and when the breeding birds in your area will start nesting.

It is very useful to know some bird biology. It will help you find the best place, time, and camera settings for successful photography.

When you apply this knowledge to photography, you will get more good photos. You know, the best wildlife photographers in the world are often experts in biology.

Pick up a book, do some reading, and you can improve your bird photography from the comfort of your couch. Reading can provide some useful tips for bird photography.

Shooting settings

The exposure settings you choose on your camera vary depending on the type of image you want to create. In addition, they will vary depending on your shooting conditions.

It's almost impossible to guide you through specific setup parameters for all scenarios in an article like this, but the three important exposure settings have some basic principles.

• aperture

The aperture is open and closed to control the amount of light allowed into the camera. It's counterintuitive, but the smaller the number, the more light that touches the camera's sensor.

Aperture affects your final image in two ways. First, a large aperture (small f-number) produces a shallow depth of field. Second, most lenses do not get the sharpest image at maximum aperture value (the smallest f-value).

To make the image obtained by the lens sharpest, the f-value is generally taken within the upper and lower ranges between the maximum and minimum apertures. For example, if you have a lens with a maximum aperture of f/4, your sharpest aperture might be around f/11.

• shutter speed

Most of the time, in bird photography, you will dedicate yourself to creating sharp images. Long lenses are harder to hold stable than wide-angle lenses. This means that a very fast shutter speed is required.

Even large, slow-flying birds require faster shutter speeds. (1/2500th, f/8, ISO 400, 400mm)

How do I take clear bird photos? A common but not necessary rule is that your shutter speed needs to be inversely proportional to the focal length of the lens (safety shutter). Therefore, if you shoot with a 500 mm lens, you need to use a shutter speed of at least 1/500.

A slower shutter can cause blurring. It's either because the bird you're photographing moved, or you moved. Sometimes blur can be a good way to express yourself (like an unreal effect from a slow door), but it's not a random one.

• ISO sensitivity

ISO increases the apparent sensitivity of the camera sensor to light. I say "apparent" because changing the ISO doesn't actually affect the sensor itself. This is just one way the camera's built-in algorithms parse data from sensors.

None of these technical things affect nature photographers working in the field. In fact, a higher ISO means you can use faster shutter speeds and a higher aperture.

However, high ISO also introduces digital noise. You must strike a balance between noise levels and the exposure you need to achieve sharp images. Lots of noise won't give you the best bird photography.

• Autofocus button

When it comes to focusing, taking photos of birds can be a challenge. If you shoot with a Canon or Nikon DSLR, you can set the camera to not use the shutter button to focus, but instead use the button on the back of the camera.

Using specialized buttons to perform focus tasks allows your shutter button to do what the shutter button is supposed to do – take a picture.

• Focus mode

Catching birds on the branches is one thing, but how do you photograph birds in flight? For most bird photography, I recommend using AI servo or continuous focus (AF-C).

In this setting, your camera will continue to focus on your subject as you or you move around. As soon as the focus button is pressed, it will continue to stay in focus.

This is how to photograph flying and moving birds.

The Ethics of Bird Photography

I want to take a moment to talk about the ethics of bird photography. Here are some general rules of art:

1. Your first priority is to make sure that you don't threaten the animals you want to photograph. If they are far away from you, blushing, or appearing restless, then you are too close to them. Back off and don't get any closer. (The best way to get close is to be patient, sit quietly, and wait.) If you are not threatened, the birds will actively approach you. ）
2. Do not manipulate the animal's behavior. Don't drive birds away in order to photograph their flight, or use artificial seduction. Go with the birds' nature and not disturb their normal activities.

Don't interfere with others. Be polite if you're shooting around other bird photographers. Don't block each other and stop anyone who exhibits harmful behavior towards birds. Around birdwatchers, be especially careful not to be aggressive or scare the birds.

Assistive technology

For many species, there is generally no need to use assistive techniques such as camouflage to better approach them. In many popular bird photography locations, birds are everywhere. Or maybe they've become so used to people that hiding them isn't a priority.

Specific shooting recommendations

There are many ways to photograph birds. From close-up bird portraits and images about behavior to showing bird habitats.

No method is perfect. The key is for yourself to know what you want, what is possible, and what is not.

Here are the three main types of bird images, along with some guidelines for making them:

• Clean portrait

In some photography worlds, clean bird portraits have become the standard for a "good" bird photo. Indeed, a beautiful portrait can be a beautiful thing.

To shoot stereoscopic portraits, you need a long lens with a large aperture (small f-number). This isolates the birds from their surroundings. It will also reduce your depth of field.

Once you've set up your device, keep the following points in mind. (Note that these are guidelines, not rules.) Put all of this together and your image will be fine, but that's not the only way to take a good photo. Practice, see what works, don't strictly follow these recommendations).

Light – The morning or evening sun is a good time to photograph this type of portrait. At this time, the light was clean and sharp, limiting the shadows. Cloudy days are also effective, as soft light from above creates a lovely flat light.

Focus – Focus on the eyes. If bird photography has one "rule" to follow in almost any situation, it's this one. Make sure your eyes are in focus.

Depth of Field – Long shots may have a very shallow depth of field, which is exactly what you want. If you're using a medium-length lens, adjust the aperture to as large as possible (f-number small) to reduce the depth of field. This blurs the background and limits interference.

Background – The background should be a pleasant, blurry neutral mosaic. This can make your theme stand out.

Composition – Leave some dead ends on the edges, not too close. Place the subject off-center, giving it a place to go, see, or provide a sense of direction.

• Habitat shooting

My favorite pictures are those showing the wildlife around me. The portraits above may be cute and clean, but they don't tell much of a story.

Animals in the environment tell us where the animals live. And what they do in it. By using spot metering focus mode on them, you can make them the most important elements.

Think of these photographic photographs of animals as landscapes and compose them in this way. Usually your "theme", the bird, is another element in the frame. You want the animal to stand out, but it shouldn't be placed in the front and in the middle.

• Birds in flight

This is one of the most valuable and frustrating categories of bird photography. On this point, it is entirely possible to write another article about photographing birds in flight.

Here, I briefly describe two main types of flight shooting methods: sharp and deliberately blurry.

Sharp flying shots – To get sharpness in flight shots, you have to use very fast shutter speeds. Even birds that fly relatively slowly, such as large waterfowl such as herons, still move too fast for your camera. Set your camera to shutter priority and choose a speed of approximately 1/2000th of a second.

Adjust the ISO settings as needed to match the shutter settings. Select the focus area as a single point. The camera focus mode selects servo focus or continuous focus, which guarantees that the focus remains when the bird moves.

Use high-speed continuous shooting. This way, you don't need to move your finger off the shutter-release device to take multiple images.

1/1250 秒, f/5.6, ISO 400, 500mm

The filming location, preferably an area where birds fly in predictable patterns. Waterfowl move from one nearby lake to another. Or geese and cranes coming and going from their nocturnal habitat.

1/800 秒,f/10,ISO400,700mm

The gimbal on the tripod is very useful if you are using a very long lens, otherwise you will need to hold it handheld.

When a bird approaches, place the focus anywhere on it and then adjust to put the focus on the bird's head.

Just like the portrait mentioned earlier, the eye needs to be focused in the final image. Follow the flight of the birds and take plenty of images as the compositions are combined.

Birds fly against the bright sunrise. This not only makes beautiful images, but also makes it easier to photograph birds. The camera focuses very well in high contrast situations. Against a bright background, a dark bird is perfect. A background that is too well lit will cause the birds to fade into black.

When the birds pass by and start flying away, put down the camera and start looking for the next subject. Don't keep staring at the birds that fly past, a bird that flies away is not as interesting as a bird that flies towards you.

Stay alert and prepared is one of the best bird photography techniques and techniques.

• Deliberate flight blur

Some of my favorite bird photos I've ever created are deliberately blurry. These are more artistic than clear photos and offer opportunities for innovation.

Shooting the work here, the settings are mostly the same as the suggestions above, but we need to extend our shutter speed. I've successfully blurred between 1/2 second and 1/100 second.

The most important part of deliberate blur is keeping the camera moving when you trigger the shutter. (Shaker shooting)

If done correctly, the bird should stay in the same position in the frame with a blurred background and wings. It provides a sense of movement and can create very pleasant results....

There are a lot of images that will fail. It's okay, keep experimenting, adjust the shutter speed and your own movements.

This blur takes 1/5 second, f/5.6, ISO 400, 700mm.

When the bird flies by at a very long shutter speed, you can reverse this technique and keep the camera steady. Give it a try and see what you get.

Photographing birds in flight is not when saving pixels. This is when you raise the camera to your eyes and explode. As they say, "spray and pray".

There are plenty of discarded images in any flight series, but luckily, some will show up the way you want it to. When you get home you'll get used to pressing the delete key.

conclusion

As I write this, it occurred to me that each section could make up a complete article.

So much bird photography depends on the instantaneous decisions of photographers in the field. Trying to create a usable formula is an impossible task.

So, let these serve as my final advice to you: the quickest way to make yourself better is to go out and take pictures.