laitimes

Jinan snacks: cultural symbols of the thousand-year-old city

author:Jinan Times - New Yellow River

Counting the 42 flavors of the list of "the most popular Jinan famous special snacks", there are both "Quancheng Erwei" who are "tea soup is not tea, sweet foam is not sweet", as well as the daily food of Jinan people such as zi meat and crispy pot; there are heavy hard dishes such as Sixi balls, five-spice boneless hoofs, old Yuji grilled chicken, spiced mackerel, etc., as well as exquisite snacks such as grape soft moon, rose flower cake, and fragrant oil steamed buns; there are both finely crafted noodles such as oil swirls and clear oil pan silk cakes, and there are also rough and delicate staple foods such as Laiwu baked cakes, hanging oven cakes, and Zongji pot cakes There are "street overlords" such as yellow stewed chicken rice and spiced peanut rice, as well as "district and county kings" such as snow wild fish head, Laiwu sausage, Changqing large vegetarian bun, Jade Emperor Temple tofu skin, etc.; there are both a new generation of "internet celebrities" and a large number of long-established brands. What kind of cultural style does Jinan snack with a variety of varieties and rich connotations have?

Jinan snacks: cultural symbols of the thousand-year-old city

"Famous special" snacks, hiding the temperament of Jinan people

Behind each Jinan snack is a unique meaning or fun. "Sixi balls are one of the classic traditional dishes of Lu cuisine." Zhang Jiping, a famous scholar and folklore expert, introduced, "Sixi balls are composed of four meatballs with good color, aroma and taste, which are full of four happy events of life, lu, shou and joy. It is often used as the finale dish in wedding feasts, birthday feasts and other banquets to take its auspicious meaning. The sweet foam known for its "strangeness" is a kind of salty porridge mainly boiled with millet noodles, and The people of Jinan are commonly known as "five-spice sweet foam". Zhang Jiping once examined that sweet foam should be "timmer", "In fact, sweet foam is indispensable to drink on the table of our Jinan people, especially in breakfast." ”

Jinan people are hospitable, generous and atmospheric, and are influenced by Confucius's "food is not boring, not tired of fine", this "temperament" is also mixed into snacks. This dish originated from Liu Bei, Guan Yu and Zhang Fei's "worship handle", which was improved by the famous chef of Lu during the Sui Dynasty and upgraded by the "Zhengtaiheng" restaurant after the opening of Jinan, and gradually became what it is today. The tough "big man" hides the "fine kung fu" of material selection, knife work, and fire. "Go, please eat a handful of meat!" In the ultimate delicacy, it is a Lu-style free to eat meat in large bites. Exquisite and elaborate such as clear oil plate silk cake, "roll the noodles to the extremely fine, as thin as hair, up to more than a thousand roots", and then plate into a round cake shape, put the oil in the half-fried and half-baked to make it cooked, and then lift the middle to pull the cake apart, scatter it on the plate, sprinkle with green and red silk, white sugar and make it. The pancakes are crisp and sweet, and they are a good snack at the banquet.

"Jinan has had a great influence on China's commercial culture and food culture from ancient times to the present." Zhang Jiping gave two examples: Chen Yuzuo, a native of Licheng County, Jinan Province, in the Qing Dynasty, introduced silkworm seeds from Jinan to Zunyi, so that Zunyi's silkworm reeling textile industry was found from scratch, and Zun Silk could later be "competed with Wu Aya, Shu Jin, Hangfang and other products" and exported to the Western Regions and Nanyang; Ding Baozhen was transferred from Shandong to the Governor of Sichuan, and brought the Lu cuisine "Gongbao Chicken Ding" to Sichuan to carry forward, and later this dish became a famous traditional dish at home and abroad, and was included in Lu cuisine, Sichuan cuisine, and Guizhou cuisine. The cooking techniques of Jinan cuisine have a long history and a wide range of influences, such as the soup method that dates back to 1400 years ago in the "Qi Min Zhi Shu": "Hammer beef and sheep bones are crushed, cooked, and juiced; the floating powder is swept away, and the stop is cleared." Many Jinan dishes have been promoted through the spread. According to some literature, the superb techniques such as "yellow stew", "coriander explosion", "clear frying", "pot collapse" and "silk pulling" used in Jinan cuisine have greatly enriched the treasure house of Chinese cooking.

Jinan snacks: cultural symbols of the thousand-year-old city

The abundance on the tip of the tongue is the cultural dance of the thousand-year-old city

Snacks, condensed with the cultural characteristics of a city. Jinan has been an important transportation hub since ancient times, and the two major passages of Xiaoqinghe and Jishui have achieved the rapid development of Jinan in the early days, and both commerce and industry have prospered. During the Qin and Han dynasties, the iron smelting technology of Dongping Lingcheng in the Zhangqiu area was called "cutting-edge technology", making this area an economic highland at that time; during the Sui and Tang dynasties, Licheng County, which is today's Daming Lake, became the commercial center of Jinan. During the Northern Song Dynasty, the development of commerce and culture condensed into a landmark event: Quancheng gave birth to the white rabbit pattern of the first trademark in The history of China and even the world, "Jinan Liujia Kung Fu Needle Shop". In the Song Dynasty, Jinan merchants came and went, the street market was bustling, and Zeng Gong, one of the eight great masters of the Tang and Song Dynasties, once described the lively scene of the morning market with "people who travel to the city bridge speak secretly, and the horse head follows the covenant to Chaoxia". By the end of the Qing Dynasty, the Jinpu Railway was opened to traffic, and Jinan's flour, textile, printing and dyeing, chemical, paper, machinery, hardware and other industries developed to its peak. Spanning thousands of years, Jinan is now standing at a new starting point for the central city of the Yellow River Basin.

The snacks that gather Jinan's history, culture and customs have never been so rich. The yellow stewed chicken that has transformed into an Internet celebrity and the Huangjia barbecue that has traveled through three hundred years have different flavors, but they have the same cultural roots. Each flavor delicacy in the list is an indispensable part of Jinan's food culture and a hot spot in the daily life of residents, and all of them are mirrors of Jinan's history, culture, social style and food traditions. Sun Zhanyu, secretary of the party group of the Jinan Municipal Bureau of Commerce, said that as a famous historical and cultural city, culture is the root and soul of Jinan, the humanistic collection of 5,000 years of civilization history, the interplay of many celebrities, the inheritance and enrichment of Jinan's distinctive food culture, but also become the cultural symbol and spiritual element of the millennium ancient city of "Taste Jinan".

Jinan snacks: cultural symbols of the thousand-year-old city

There are more than a thousand varieties of Jinan cuisine, and snacks are renovated and numerous. "This list is only a representative part", Zhang Helong, director of the Commercial and Trade Development Division of the Municipal Bureau of Commerce, said that Jinan City held a normalized selection of famous snacks, and the list was constantly enriched and updated, "in order to let the people know as much as possible about the varieties of Jinan snacks."

"Taste of Jinan" • Famous special snack food culture festival in the voice of people's nostalgia, but the Spring City food culture is endless, the enthusiasm for the inheritance, innovation and development of famous special food enterprises is unprecedentedly high, in the tide of strong provincial capital construction, the catering industry is upgrading, and a shining new business card of Jinan tourism and cuisine is accelerating.

Jinan snacks: cultural symbols of the thousand-year-old city

New Times reporter: Gao Ying

Photo: Wang Feng

Editor: Xing Zhibin

Read on