Tahini noodles are also cool in the summer

Source: China Women's Daily

Cai Haojie

It's hot, and people are prone to low mood. Brother shouted to eat shabu-shabu, I have no appetite, staring at the sesame sauce in the seasoning area, I can't help but mix a sesame sauce for myself to eat, the incense is fragrant, I didn't eat two bites of greasy panic, the sauce quickly condensed into a ball in the bowl, more and more feel bored.

Beep, wind and rain outside the window. I can't help but think of the days when I traveled to Beijing at the beginning of the year, and I was wrapped in tahini. Beijing is a paradise for tahini lovers, and that day out of Taoran Pavilion, in the wet and gray world, there are a few birdsong that the south has never heard. Going north, around the North Latitude Road and the West Longitude Road, I have been looking for it in a circle, and the steaming shabu restaurant in my imagination has not appeared. Anxious to eat, I plunged into the alley, completely forgetting the unreliable navigation software.

The door is date red, and the other door is also date red. The glass window is gray, and when the jujube door of this era is pushed open, it is full of enthusiasm and fragrant aroma. "How many of you?" Different clerks passed by the seats and asked about the number of people, and I didn't feel embarrassed to eat copper pot shabu-shabu alone. Of course, I don't feel alone, when the dishes are on the table.

Along with the pot is a bowl of brownish-yellow tahini. Tahini is not indigenous. During the Han Dynasty, the Central Plains of China imported tropical sesame seeds from the western region, fried dry and peeled, and then fried and ground into a sauce with stone grinding. Sesame oil is thick, the oil is floating in water, and adding water to the sauce and stirring can separate the sesame oil. It is said that at the end of the Three Kingdoms period, a major general burned the fuel used to burn the iron lock of the river was sesame oil.

And looking at it in front of you, I saw that there was chili oil and garlic juice in the middle of the bowl, and green leek flowers embedded in it. I gently stirred with chopsticks, put the chopsticks in my mouth and took a sip, and suddenly felt a warm smell of sesame seeds, slowly bypassing the tip of my tongue. The sesame sauce is soft and mellow, and at the root of the tongue, there is more bitterness that seems to be nothing, and there is a hint of sweetness of peanut butter again, and there seems to be a slight spicy and faint freshness. It is said that the exquisite shop will hang out with broth, which may be the case.

Tahini is the standard for shabu-shabu. Fresh lamb in boiling water boiling, while the heat in the sesame sauce ingredients rolling, wrapped in sesame sauce lamb absorbed the aroma of sesame seeds, sesame sauce hanging on the meat and giving the taste of a soft glutinous, animal oil and vegetable oil mutual achievement, full of sweet to the mouth, or sandwiched with a chopsticks coriander to eat, and then a clove of garlic, just this bite.

Bursting stomach is not boring. Diving enthusiasts are even more ecstatic. Lamb tripe, tripe blanched and shredded, drizzled with sesame sauce, stir a little, pick up the plate into the mouth to pull to eat, crisp taste, with the sweetness of the sesame sauce, I really can't tell whether it is too fragrant, or the taste of the sesame sauce is more delicious.

Watching the TV series "I Love My Home", Ms. Peace remembered that after losing her memory, the most important thing she wanted to eat was the steamed bun slice smeared with thick sesame sauce. Slice the baked bread, spread a layer of sesame paste, dipped in sugar to eat, sweet and crispy, if you dip other sauces is not indispensable, but less tahini of the slight scorched bitterness, it seems to feel that the heart is empty. The encounter with starch, tahini sugar cake and tahini fire are also teaching people to mind. Unfortunately, I still haven't eaten it, and I always look forward to the day when we meet.

In order to solve the bitter taste, people will add some peanut butter to the tahini, usually 80% of the sesame sauce with 20% peanut butter. It is said that there is a "two eight sauce" in the alley behind the drum tower with a long history and authentic taste, and I regret that I did not taste it at that time.

In the summer of Guangzhou, I pulled "half side cloud (half fat and half skinny lamb)" and watermelon dumplings, put them in the pot, fished them up, dipped in sauce, and made them all in one go. Some of the remaining fans and old tofu are at the bottom, and in the past I might have drizzled with soy sauce to eat, imagining that I and Zhu Ziqing ate the same one in childhood. Today, I asked for an extra bowl of sesame sauce, soaked tofu and vermicelli in the bowl, so that it was hung with brown and yellow sesame sauce, the bean flavor of sesame in the steaming heat, can't help but think of Mr. Lao She once proposed in the proposal that "Beijingers can't do without sesame sauce in summer", and then solved the problem of sesame sauce supply, and felt that this daily fresh fragrance was not easy to come by.

Of course, the most appropriate thing nowadays is a bowl of cold noodles with sesame sauce. Noodles over cold water, cut into cucumber shreds, add water to the "two eight sauce" spread, poured into the noodles, like gossamer, slowly flowing down like no temper magma, brown-yellow sesame sauce believes in "flowers bloom butterflies come from", plus garlic juice and soy sauce vinegar, a mouthful of belly, full of nose incense, cool and greasy, comfortable. It is said that Qianlong went back to the Lama Temple after the altar of earth to eat cold noodles with sesame sauce. I was really worried that this "taste of new noodles" made of new wheat would disturb the emperor's mind, and he always looked forward to eating it, praying for blessings and not knowing whether he would go away.

Tahini noodles are not necessarily Beijing patents, wuhan hot dry noodles and Shaxian snacks, but also through the east wind of sesame sauce, peanut butter, in the white air of the mighty. Hong Kong's noodles are also instant delicacies, mixed with tahini sauce, sprinkled with some shredded chicken, and then a sip of frozen lemon tea, perhaps this happiness can also be remembered for many years.

The city of Beijing is flat and stable, and the main road is mostly in four directions, east, west, south and north, straight and straight, frank. It seems that there are only two rolls, one is the tongue, and the other is lamb. I wiped my mouth and waited for the car on a cold day, and the white gas that came out of Ha seemed to carry the soul of a sesame seed. Looking at the lights outside the car window painted as a red line like a cloud flowing water, I remembered the joy of meeting with tahini, perhaps, it will always be.