The mention of Chengdu's veteran scribes naturally reminds people of the famous Dragon Scribe, which has a history of 80 years since its establishment in 1941. However, in the more than twenty years before and after the birth of the Dragon Scribe, The Chengdu Scribe Haojie had another person.
In the 1930s and 1940s, there were several famous scribe shops in Chengdu, such as Dongcheng Gen Wu Scribe, Summer Sock Street Dwarf Zhai Scribe, Luoma City Cook Scribe and Huaxi Balin Scribe, who were divided into four directions, each with its own strengths and supporters.
In addition to DongchengGen, there are also branches in QingshiQiao and Sanqiao, and many imitators are scattered in the city, so that it is difficult for visitors from other places to distinguish between true and false. In 1937, physicist Wu Dayu came to Sichuan University to teach, rented in Shaocheng Niangniangmiao Street, not far from the Dongcheng Root Wu scribe, he later wrote in the "Memories": There are "real" "Wu scribes" on the street - two special quotation marks, I don't know if Mr. Wu lao encountered the regret of "Li Ghost".
Wu Scribe originated in the early years of the Republic of China, initially as a street vendor, and later set up a shop at the mouth of Niangniangmiao Street, known for its chicken soup copyers, red oil copy hands and braised beef noodles. It is said that Zhang Guangwu, one of the founders of the Dragon Scribe, came here to "study" the technique and explore the know-how before opening the store. In the early 1950s, several old masters in Chongqing directly hung the three big characters of Wu scribes in the mountain city and did the same famous Chongqing Wu scribes.
Cook Scribe and Lin Scribe are both specialty shops, the former has been favored by the Rong people in Luoma City for many years, and the latter has won the favor of teachers and students from all over the world in Huaxiba. Different from the three families, the dwarf Zhai scribe combines the taste of Chengdu people and Chengdu snacks, with a unique style and a school of its own.
Founded in 1928, the old site is on the east side of Summer Socks South Street, roughly in the later Sichuan Provincial Film Company diagonally opposite the door, the boss's surname is Ye, because of his short stature, so named.
People in other places often talk about their own physical defects, and Sichuan people not only have no scruples, but also use them as restaurant signs to attract customers, such as Chen Ma Po tofu, mole beard longan buns, dumb beef burnt cakes, Zhang Mazi crispy noodles, horse leprosy beef, camel noodles, crippled noodles, etc. Although these people are mostly joking about good deeds, the attitude of the chefs with extraordinary skills towards jokes is that they can afford to open and catch, and they eventually hang in front of the hall on a black background.
However, Boss Ye is really clever, he followed a "Zhai" word after the word "short", and immediately showed a superior detachment, although it can not be compared with the elegant and surprising name of high-end restaurants, for the same type of snack signboard, it has already stood out from the crowd.
Old Chengdu people are very particular about eating, the high standards and high requirements of the big dish feast needless to say, even for street food, it is not a big chew, in order to try to be full, or a shallow taste, pure greed, but appreciation more than the stomach, feeling better than taste.
Whether it is a lady gentleman or a pawn of a peddler, he will tell you how rich Guo Tangyuan's core is, how comfortable it is to eat different sweet soups at different times, how the skin of Lai Tangyuan is sticky, how clever the dipping sauce is, and how clean and refined the meat filling of Zhong Shui dumplings is, and even the same is vegetarian noodles, he will also say that Tongjing Lane uses authentic red and white nest oil.
As usual, experienced diners can accurately say how much material his original soup is boiled, how much heat is hot, and how long it lasts. More organic and sensitive old food, after a few back and forth to find the earth-shattering secret, the original dwarf brother sold a few special small dishes, are from the old ingredients of boiling soup.
This is the second place where dwarf Zizhai is different, the scribe is always in charge, but there are always a few protector dishes around him, which complement each other and complement each other.
Dwarf Zi Zhai mainly original soup copy and sour spicy copy, every morning to the market to prepare enough good pork ribs, pig trotters, pork belly, pig intestines, whole chicken and seasonal fresh vegetables, meat into the pot with the old soup boiled, timely fished up into fish fragrant ribs, spicy ribs, braised hat knots, braised pearl meat, pea roasted fat intestines, potato roasted hoof flowers, mushroom roasted belly strips, green shoot roast chicken, the prepared roasted vegetables poured into several square iron barrels, lined up in front of the store, with a low heat heat.
Open for business at noon, guests eat as they go, copy the original soup sour and spicy choice, copy the hand to eat can be free to continue the soup, cooked cold dishes large and small portions of arbitrary, exquisite dishes, soup delicious, low price. The short zi zhai shop hall is narrow and deep, can accommodate more than a dozen table people, every day the courtyard is like a city, the guests and hosts are noisy. When the goods are sold out, the owner immediately put on a wooden sign with a large "Bi" character, announcing that today is the end of the day, tomorrow please be early.
Soon after the opening, Boss Ye also launched the original soup copy and the green bamboo shoot hoof flower into one hoof flower copyer, the copy hand cooked into the bowl, and then scooped a scoop of green shoot hoof flowers fired in the original soup to cover it, the green shoots fresh green crisp and fragrant, the hoof flower soft glutinous light bite that melts, the thin filling of the copy hand skin is rich and tender on the inside, the fresh soup is mellow and crystalline, the entrance is not greasy, the color and fragrance are good, the reputation is shocked, and the wind swept the city.
Just when the business was at its peak, the dwarf Zhai almost changed the court and changed the market. In 1936, the Chengdu-Chongqing Railway completed the first survey, planning to build the Chengdu Railway Station in the eastward area outside the north gate, the corresponding layout of traffic in the city, planning to open a new city gate, directly through Lion Lane, Summer Socks Street to reach south street, the curtain official Office Street, Jujube Tree Street, Summer Socks Street, Qingshiqiao Street, Xinkai Street, Yandao Street, Purification Street A line widened and transformed into a fast road for the ride, the summer socks street where the dwarf Zhai is located is the core of the Tongqu, and the merchants along the way are possible to adjust. The following year, the Wokou ignited the fire at the Lugou Bridge, and the construction of the road was stopped.
Although it rubs shoulders with the north-south arterial road of the drawing, the summer socks street is as bustling as ever, and the dwarf Zizhai still works with two good neighbors to write a love affair.
Summer Socks South Street near the mouth of the East Street, there is a small food stall selling brine vegetables, the owner's surname is Luo, known as Luo Brine, the stall is rich in varieties of brine, delicious taste, especially sand kernel elbows, belly strips, fat intestines are small and famous. Not far to the north from the luo marinade, is the famous Quanxingcheng Roast House, which has been popular here for a hundred years when the dwarf Zhai landed on the South Street of Summer Socks, and has long been well known.
When people eat, first cut some sand kernel elbows and red brine intestines in luo brine vegetables, and then quanxing into quanxing daqu, luxury points to play the trendy air-conditioning daqu, and finally to the dwarf zhai point spicy ribs, a bowl of hoof flowers to copy the hand, after the wine and rice are full, continue the bowl of original soup under the belly, satisfied. Half drunk and half awake, he came out of the door, his eyes were confused, his grin was cocked, not a dream, not a fairy. Just like Lao Quanxing's pair of Yang Lian, "Three drunks in the seat, go out an arch crooked", which is very freehand.
After the Anti-Japanese War, Boss Ye's son inherited his father's business and moved to the North Third Street of Summer Socks to continue to write Xinglong. In 1956, Dwarf ZiZhai became one of the first public-private restaurants, and in 1979, it took the lead in restoring the old signboard and operating on Lower East Avenue until it disappeared at the beginning of this century. Later, a copy shop named Ye Ji Dwarf Zi Zhai opened on Wangping Street, and disappeared a few years later.
Text/Pickled sea pepper
Some of the pictures are from the Internet and are for illustrative purposes only
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