Qianjiang Evening News hourly news reporter Zhang Jinhua
Taizhou writer Wang Han.
"The wind and smoke make autumn appearances, and everything in the world becomes sad, in Jiangnan, the sorrow is faint, like the coolness of the first birth, and the joy is real, like the fragrance of osmanthus in the courtyard."
Autumn is really a beautiful season, the autumn equinox, crab feet itch, when the wind rises, shake off the osmanthus flowers full of gold, and everything related to osmanthus flowers, are beautiful, osmanthus tea, osmanthus wine, osmanthus dew, osmanthus cake, and even when the autumn osmanthus will bloom, the sweltering weather, also known as "osmanthus steaming". Feng Zikai has a small painting, two men with shirtless and shaking a fan, sitting on a stool and chatting, the inscription is called "Osmanthus Steaming".
As soon as the autumn comes, as soon as the appetite is opened, I want to eat and drink. Autumn is a good time to eat laurel, with white sugar pickled osmanthus flowers, with white wine to brew osmanthus flowers, bubble osmanthus tea to drink, osmanthus can be made of osmanthus wine brewing, osmanthus lotus root, osmanthus sugar taro, osmanthus tangyuan, can also be made into sweet osmanthus cake.
Everyone has a hometown on their tongue.
This is the text in The New Book of Jiangnan Snacks by Wang Han, a female writer from Taizhou, Zhejiang, and the beautiful early autumn temptation.
In a few days, it will be another solar term - autumn. From the sweltering heat of midsummer to the slightest coolness after early autumn, the taste of Jiangnan on the tip of the tongue, and listen to Wang Han's careful words.
This "Jiangnan Snack" just published by Zhejiang Gongshang University Press is a companion to Wang Han's good Chinese book "No Fresh, No Rice Left". Taste Jiangnan cuisine, write hometown snacks, the tip of the tongue has the richness and deliciousness of Jiangnan, and there are hometown customs and human feelings under the tip of the pen.
Wang Han wrote more than seventy kinds of snacks, sixty-four illustrations, Jiangnan cuisine, Jiangnan charm, Jiangnan taste, hook people hungry insects. Wang Han said that childhood snacks are nostalgia after adulthood.
Wang Han said that after "No Fresh Food, No Rice", "Jiangnan Snacks" is her second collection of food essays.
"My hometown plain is vast, the hills are stretched, the mountains and the sea are connected, bringing rice and wheat two ripe, there are more than 200 kinds of flavor snacks, from north to south, each city has its own special cuisine, the so-called one town and one place, a bottle and a bowl, a food and a taste, are all good tastes." More than 200 kinds of non-repetitive snacks turn every ordinary day into a good day. In "Jiangnan Snacks", it is written about the taste of snacks, and there is more human feelings behind snacks. I love the steaming fireworks of the world more than the temples of the High Church. "If there are ten thousand kinds of love for Jiangnan, Wang Han uses Jiangnan snacks to pin Jiangnan feelings, which is one of them."
Everything is good at all times. The beautiful Jiangnan life in Wang Han's eyes is like this: "The rain hits the Jiangnan trees, and countless flowers bloom in one night." The living room is facing the Qiantang River, and there is a hint of the tide of the Qiantang River in the wind. In the spring and March, the grass and trees are overgrown, the spring mountains can be expected, after eating the spring rolls of cabbage, the fried rice cakes of ziyunying, the people in the countryside are busy picking green, and immediately there are verdant and turquoise Qingming fruits on the table. ”
As Hangzhou writer Zhou Huacheng said, Wang Han wrote "Jiangnan Snacks", this book is delicious, can eat, read happily, eat contented.
Wang Han is a "foodie" and an interesting person, and the words he writes are also full of fun. Wang Han is not cold, usually a bit of a female haojie style, for people wind and fire, warm and cheerful, written foodie text both fireworks, elegant and elegant. This may be a kind of unique literary atmosphere of Wang Han.
For example, she said: "A high-ranking person preaches that life is' a bottle and a bowl are enough." If you give me a bottle and a bowl, I will have sour plum soup in the bottle and black rice in the bowl. ”
Writing spring rolls, "Although the spring rolls are delicious, they are always hungry, like the desire of the veterans of the love field." ”
Write tofu brain, "the first transformation is tofu brain, white tender and slippery, such as two or eight good people, tofu brain compaction solidified into tofu, such as middle-aged mother." The process of making them transform is called point halogen, and in the past, the salt brine used to point the halogen, which is the thing that Yang Bailao drank when he committed suicide in "White Hair Water". ”
Write Fat Intestines," Xiao Kuan said, 'Fat intestines are the joint code for foodies, and on the road to fat intestines, they are all brothers, no enemies. I completely agree with his criteria, but please make sure to add the word 'sister', because there are so many sisters around me who love fat sausages. ”
Write taro, "Taro before and after the Mid-Autumn Festival fresh powder sticky, used to simmer duck is the best." "As the old saying goes in my hometown: 'Eat taro in autumn, and there will be more than one head every year'."
Write heavy yang cake. "When it comes to the Chongyang Festival, 'Cake poetry wine hat Zhu Yu Mat', 'Cake' is put first. The appearance of Chongyang Cake is huge, just like after the gong and drum on the stage sounded, a general with a bunting flag on his back came out. ”
Wang Han writes about Jiangnan snacks, not only about fun, but also about style. Speaking of grid, Wang Han follows this "grid" of Wang Zengqi and Shen Congwen.
"Although Shen Congwen is angry with the book, I agree with the food he talks about." Wang Han said, "The state has a national character, people have personality, and the cake also has a cake grid, for example, the grid of the gray and green cake is higher than that of the sweet potato cake, and the grid of the sprinkled cake is higher than the crystal cake." There are three well-known snacks on Ziyang Street, sheep's feet, horseshoe puff pastry, and seaweed cake. The grid of the seaweed cake is higher than the sheep's foot and horseshoe puff pastry. ”
Why is this so, the same snack, this grid is higher than that? I really wanted to go to Wang Han and ask him what was going on.
Wang Han close-up.
Interesting, stylish, and urban.
For example, Wang Han wrote moldy dried vegetable cakes, and the atmosphere of the city came to the face. "The representative figure of Jinyun Baked Cake in Hangzhou is Fat Boy Baked Cake Brother. When this Jinyun bakery brother went to Hangzhou twenty years ago to set up a baked cake stall, the road fare was still borrowed, and after more than twenty years, he mixed up in Hangzhou, sold baked cakes, bought a house in Hangzhou, bought a shop, and bought two Audis. There are also a large number of pretentious Zhejiang University high-caliber students, looking up to this inspirational brother who has become an Internet celebrity."
Isn't it very urban, as if this writer of food is a home-cooked woman who often wanders around in places like vegetable markets?
Wang Han, known as the female writer who knows Taizhou best, has written 7 books for Taizhou, totaling more than 1.5 million words. From "No Fresh Food" to "Jiangnan Snacks", from "Whispers of the Earth - Twenty-Four Solar Terms of Jiangnan" to "Jiangnan Grass and Trees", from "Taizhou People" to "Taizhou Interesting", "Taizhou Woman Between Mountains and Seas"... As a female writer who likes to walk, she has traveled to 34 provinces, municipalities and autonomous regions in China, traveled to more than 40 countries, and reached as far as The Antarctic. In her Taizhou humanities series of works, Taizhou's city wells, veins, customs, cuisine, festivals, culture, dialects, folk customs, folk customs, folk feelings, urban character, citizen characteristics, elegant old things, and urban details are so vivid and vivid. With a humorous and vivid narrative, she interprets the city of Taizhou in an all-round way, and her series of works has become the most vivid urban reader for people to understand Taizhou.
The world is vast, and life is like a mail. Only the food related to the hometown makes us feel at ease and steadfast.
Preemptive reading
Excerpt from "Jiangnan Snacks"
《Youth League》
Caiqing is the same as the "Book of Poetry" in the Same as the "Book of Poetry", there is a lively natural atmosphere, Caiqing is to go to a spring date, every spring, there are always a few times of intimate contact with nature, plants always come in season, like the plum blossom white in the cold season, the neem purple in the valley rain, the bayberry red at the summer solstice, Qing is also a distinctive mark of the festival, in Jiangnan, just talk about Caiqing, you know, Qingming is coming.
In Jiangnan, once in the Qingming Dynasty, every household should eat green dough, and in Jiangnan, where the water is soft and the wind is light, you can taste the various breaths of spring. In the south, eating Qingtuan is an annual appointment, which has lasted for a thousand years, everything grows in the spring, the spring color is boundless, and with the help of a series of delicacies, you can move the spring color between the lips, just as Wang Zengqi said, "One entrance, three springs do not forget."
"Peach Blossoms, Fish Heads, Sweet Potato Cakes"
There is a proverb in my hometown, "peach blossom red, mud snail fat", "cauliflower yellow, anchovy fish fat." In the eyes of foodies, flowers blossom and fall together with food.
The spring breeze rushed thousands of miles, and in the spring equinox, overnight, the peach blossoms of thousands of trees bloomed. As soon as the peach blossoms bloomed, everyone's hearts were itchy, chaotic, and wild. At this time, the blowing noodles are already gentle willow winds.
Spring to Changtan, is a good place. After a winter of cold silence, in the spring, as soon as the peach blossoms bloom, Changtan will be lively, and the village will hold a peach blossom festival every year, and the people in the city who come to enjoy the flowers always want to eat sweet potato cakes by name. Sweet potato cake is a special snack on the edge of the Changtan Reservoir, round like a sunflower, to borrow zhang hate water to describe, bi rod disc, like a golden lamp.
"Pine Blossom Wine and Pine Blossom Cake"
The pine tree grows simple and solemn, and looks like a silent gentleman. The hometown is mountainous, the mountain is full of pine, every spring, when the rhododendrons on the mountain bloom, the pine trees are full of golden pine flowers, and the forest is filled with a faint fragrance of pine blossoms. Pine blossoms are the bones of the male branches of pine trees when they draw new shoots, and are held in the palm of the hand by the fine and sharp pine branches. Before the Qingming Dynasty, the mugwort leaves are picked to make green balls, and the townspeople will pick some pine pollen by the way. In the spring, the pine flowers bloom all over the mountain, just need to shake the branches to pick up the pollen, and the pine pollen collected is enough to make a few cakes. Picking pine flowers to grasp the season, too early, pine flower mite head is small, pine pollen is also less, too late, pine flowers bloom, spring wind blows, pollen scattered all over the place, the ground is golden, the earth is like dyed with gold powder. Those who are old-fashioned, take the unopened pine grate head, fill it with a bag, go home and pour it in the bamboo plaque, let it dry under the sun, the sun will dry the pine flower grate head, and the pine pollen will fall. Pine pollen is smooth and fragrant, and after adults bathe dolls in the summer, they can be used as talcum powder, and the children who have fluttered pine pollen are like a golden doll.
Pine blossoms can be used to make wine and cakes.
"MuraguNo Old Black Glutinous Dumplings"
Bracken looks very cute when it is first born, and when it is ripe, it is green and lovely, like the green clothes on the opera stage, but its rhizome grows thick and strong underground, like a mountain wild mangfu, and there is a layer of taro-like brown fur on the tubers, and the roots of bracken are like kudzu, rich in starch, which the townspeople call wu glutinous. The roots of the black glutinous are strip-shaped, as thick as fingers, and after digging out, they are picked up and taken home, and they are first soaked in water for a few days to remove the sediment. Then put on a thick bench, pick up the training mallet, throw it from top to bottom, and hammer it repeatedly into a paste, bracken has a kind of untamed personality, and it must be hammered repeatedly to subdue its mountain atmosphere. The townspeople call the process of repeated hammering "practicing wuluo". "Practicing Wu Nuo" is also called "pounding Wu Nuo", and the hometown also beats people up with the metaphor of "whacking Wu Nuo".
Dumplings made with glutinous flour instead of flour are glutinous dumplings.
"Lishawu Rice"
In spring and summer, there are countless flavors of grass and trees that fill our lips and teeth, and the wontons in early spring, the fried rice cakes of Ziyunying, the qingtuan and green cakes of Qingming, and the black rice in the summer are all delicacies from the earth, with the natural fragrance of grass and trees.
In the old days of Hangzhou, there were Lixia songs: "Summer Cake River Fish Rice Cake, Sour Plum Broad Beans and Cherries, Bacon Roast Goose Salt Duck Eggs, Sea Cockroach Amaranth Wine Brewed Bad", which is simply a poem of early summer. In the summer season, cherry red, plum green, loquat yellow, mulberry purple, grass pond has a frog, eat a bowl of black rice, feel the taste of grass and trees on the ground in early summer, is a small blessing in life.
After eating black rice, Jiangnan officially entered the threshold of summer.
Cowpea and Tank Bean Wine
Cowpea is like a love seed, the nature is entangled, always like to cling to something, cowpea spit vine, to insert the vine, to the whole branch to beat the branch. In the summer, cowpeas bloom exquisite flowers, and after the flowers are gone, they slowly grow slender cowpeas. Cowpeas are emerald green, long strips hang down, pick a few, you can make a dish, the hometown people call it long cowpeas. In the hometown, call the particularly tall and thin as the long man, such as the long man yarn - the man who sells the yarn is particularly tall, and everyone can't remember his shop name, so it is called the long man yarn. Short people, not called dwarfs, but short eggs, have a playful taste.
In July and a half in my hometown, I want to make eight bowls, dried cake embryos, steamed tung leaf buns, and eat cowpea. Cowpea is made of the fruit of cowpea ripening, and the color is black and purple.
"Arbutus Wine and Dried Arbutus"
Bayberry is the most Jiangnan style fruit, it is also known as dragon's eye, vermilion, a look at the name, is the fruit of Linglong.
In early summer, Jiangnan enters the rainy season, and the overcast and rainy weather will last for more than half a month. At that time, Jiangnan plums were ripe, so they were called "plum rain" or "yellow plum rain". When the mango is planted, the bayberry on the tree is already a shy face, and by the summer solstice, the bayberry is red and purple.
Hometown is a sweet city, the summer solstice has a mountain full of bayonets, frost everywhere is golden Wendan and oranges, then a large piece of a large piece, it is simply deployed on the ground. The exquisite beauty of Yangmei has always been loved by everyone, and the foodie Li Yu said it more bluntly in "Yangmei Fu": "Southern rare fruit, the first and yangmei." Among the fruits in the south, Li Yu put the bayberry first.
Every summer, the left neighbor Zuoshe will soak in bayberry wine, which seems to have become the standard for summer. Soaked in bayberry wine, in Jiangnan, called bayberry roast, that is the Jiangnan people's summer wine. Bayberry wine is fierce, it is advisable to drink and fight bravely, not as gentle as green plum wine, green plum wine is slightly sweet if it is dewy, it is advisable to drink lightly. In ancient times, arbutus wine had an elegant name, called plum shochu.
"June 6th, Ripe Cake"
There are two kinds of cakes in my hometown, one is made of rice milk powder and the other is made of wheat milk powder. Rice milk powder made of rice cake is called rice cake, looks white and fat, fluffy and soft, like the thick snow on the roof of the northeast snow town, in Jiangnan, such snow is rarely seen, at most it is a thin layer, such as the Neem flowers are blown to the ground by the wind. The surface of the rice cake is white, the surface is smooth and flat, and the inside is fluffy like a sponge, pressed with the hand, very elastic, soft, as if pressed on the child's white and fat cheeks, where the hand presses up, slightly lower, as soon as the hand is put, it immediately returns to its original state. Break open the cake by hand, and inside are small holes, a bit like a honeycomb, but not so dense, its small holes are sparse. In Jiangnan, when the night is as cool as water, go to the rice field, or in the early morning when the rice spikes are stained with morning dew and the wind blows, you will smell the fragrance of rice, and the white cake has this good smell.
The hometown cake is fermented with white medicine made of spicy indigo, and the pastries fermented with spicy indigo are particularly soft and sweet, and there is a faint smell of wine, and some people say that it is slightly sour. After the cake is ready, it becomes soft and swollen, sprinkle some red and green silk on it, cut a piece of cake in your hand, soft and warm, and have a chewing feeling. The most commendable thing about baiyang cake is that it is soft but refreshing, it is said to be loose, in Cantonese parlance, it is refreshing to play teeth.
"After the tung blossoms, the tung leaves are packed"
Kirito leaf bun is a kind of rice cake, in the rice flour added to the cake lady for fermentation, the cake lady is also written as "cake brewing", is baking powder and small bowl of flour mixed fermentation. Like to eat sweet, put some white sugar or brown sugar (brown sugar) in the rice milk, like to eat salty, put some meat foam, and then sprinkle a few golden osmanthus flowers or sesame seeds to add flavor and color. Scoop the rice milk into the middle of the tung leaves, and then close the tung leaves, gently press them into a banana shape with the palm of your hand, the tung leaves are tender, flexible and extendable, unlike other leaves that are easy to break, in some places, when making cakes with tung leaves, the leaves will be folded into triangles or quadrilateral shapes, wrapped tightly like rice dumplings.
The wrapped rice noodles are steamed in a bamboo steamer basket. When the heat is steaming, as soon as the lid of the pot is opened, the fragrance of the tung leaves comes to the face, and before it is eaten into the mouth, the taste of the tung leaves is intoxicating. Peel off the emerald green tung leaves, the sweetness is sandwiched with the fresh air of the tung leaves, and the rice cake has a faint pattern of the tung leaves.
"Cold Vegetable Cream"
Stone cauliflower can be used as a drink, but also into pickles, Wang Zengqi wrote about a kind of pickle called Qilin cai, that is, stone cauliflower. "With two burnt cakes you can buy a small pile and wrap it in lotus leaves. Unicorn vegetables are crisp, translucent, not very salty, white mouth can eat, children buy, while walking, while eating, to the home has eaten almost. "I have eaten cold mixed stone flowers in Qingdao, shaved the gummy stone cauliflower into vermicelli, mixed with cucumber shreds, chicken shreds, etc. into cold dishes, or directly poured into the sauce vinegar, garlic paste to eat.
Stone cauliflower is both seaweed, naturally with the breath of the sea, both salty and fishy, to be repeatedly soaked in clear water, repeatedly scrubbed, repeatedly exposed to the sun, in order to remove its strong sea fishy taste and salty taste. After being exposed to the sun, the color of the stone cauliflower slowly changed from gray or dark red to ivory white, but it still looked like a mess. Dried stone cauliflower is very hairy, and the hometown people call it cold vegetables. Half of the cold vegetables, to add ten pounds of water, the cold dishes with high heat boiling, low heat slow boiling, the cooking process can not add the pot lid, in order to evaporate the fishy gas with the hot air, with gauze to filter out the impurities, put aside, waiting for it to slowly become cool. When it cools, it condenses a jelly-like crystal clear paste, which has a jade transparent feeling. Take a sip and cool your heart.
"Sichuan bean sprouts in the south"
Wugen has a former restaurant in his hometown, where the Sichuan bean sprouts are very famous, "Xinhe Mullet Stone Sticky Snake, Changyu Yellow Fish Bean Sprouts", delicious enough to be compared with mullet and yellow fish. The Michelin shop Xinrong Ji also has a dish called chicken juice Sichuan bean sprouts, their Sichuan bean sprouts, fragrant and sticky, the soup is slightly thicker, it seems to carry the fresh aroma of chicken soup.
After the fresh fava beans are burned out, the color is turquoise, and the Sichuan bean sprouts are brown, squeezing the soft bean skin with the tip of the tongue, the powdered broad beans have a rustling taste, the most rare thing is delicious, the Sichuan bean sprouts have a delicious chicken juice flavor, let people eat it can't stop, the soup of Sichuan bean sprouts, the powder paste, is also very fresh.
"Daji Dali Orange Red Cake"
The orange cake is only the size of the thumb belly, like the dice thrown in the mahjong card, and its ivory texture is faintly permeated with pink, like the skin of a beauty after bathing.
Jiangnan's orange red cake is made of snow-white glutinous rice and white sugar, the glutinous rice is cooked in a steamer, add sugar and spices, like rose fragrance, add rose sauce, like mint flavor, add some mint, put it in a stone mortar and mash it, knead it by hand into a soft cake, and then cut it into small pieces of dicta. Small white squares, with an orange-red dot, like a little red on a New Year bun, and like cinnabar on an Indian woman's eyebrow. In order not to let the orange cake stick, some fried flour will be sprinkled, and these flours will be smeared on the orange cake, like the mist at the edge of the late autumn water. There is a mint flavor in the orange cake, a refreshing and cool taste, like the stone lotus tofu eaten in summer and the grass paste with mint.
"September 9th, Mochi Pounding Mortar"
The mashing of mochi on September 9 is a very ritualistic thing in the countryside. Pounding mochi is a strong work, more than a dozen pounds of stone pestle is not so good, pounding mochi is generally a double combination, the man with great strength wields the pestle, one after another, smash the pestle on the glutinous rice ball, the small force of the hand, on the side of the flip sticky rice balls one by one. The rhythm of the pounding stone is very even, popping- popping, smashing on the soft powder ball, the sound is dull. The worse the mochi is pounded, the more "fin" the mochi is, and the better the taste. The mochi that has just been mashed out is warm and soft, and it is eaten with tears and dipped in brown sugar, and the more you eat it, the more delicious it is.
In the impression, after the New Year, too Qingming, too heavy Yang, the countryside must be pounded with mochi. When pounding mochi in the Qingming Dynasty, a few handfuls of mugwort leaves will be added, and the mugwort leaves and glutinous rice flour balls will be put into the mash mortar together, and the snow-white glutinous rice will be stained with the green bi of the mugwort leaves, which will become a beautiful and delicious green mochi.
The old father often said, "hot mochi glutinous, cold mochi tough, roasted mochi fragrant", whether hot or cold, roasted, salty and sweet, in the end is each good. There are various methods of mochi, simmered mochi, fried mochi, egg mochi, brown sugar mochi, black rice mochi, the taste has its own advantages.
"Roasted bean noodles with sand garlic and fried bean noodles with yellow ferns"
"The cavity of singing, the soup of sand and garlic". Sand garlic is an extremely delicious seafood, whether it is stir-fried or boiled soup, its delicious taste is unforgettable. Sand garlic is cooked with bean noodles, the soup is rich and thick, and the bean noodles are sucked up with umami, which is simply fascinating. Shin Rong Ji's sand garlic roasted bean noodles, eaten, all applauded. Chen Xiaoqing once said, "Taizhou sand garlic bean noodles are extremely fresh, and they can be eaten and moved." ”
"Eat the winter solstice round, even if you are one year older"
The festival before and after the winter solstice is either a little snow and heavy snow, or a small cold, just listen to the name, you have to shiver. Narcissus balls are raised in clear water, it is still just a garlic-like bulb, the plum blossoms have not yet opened, the sun is so light, the wind is fierce and powerful, the countryside is bitterly cold, and the glass windows are sometimes full of frost of white flowers, as the old man of Zhitang said, "the landscape flowers and plants full of glass." "In winter, the day is always very short, and the night is very long, and at the winter solstice, it is the day with the shortest day and the longest night. The sunlight of the winter solstice is faint, and the branches of grass and trees have either sparse or dense projections on the white wall, and suddenly, it is thought to be zheng Banqiao's ink and bamboo painting. Soon, the shadow on the wall disappeared with the sunlight. As long as you look at the projection of the sun, you feel that time is hurried, and it is the end of the year.
In my hometown, for the winter solstice, there are no less than eight bowls and nine bowls of dishes, and even less winter solstice rounds. The steamed rounds are white and fat, looking a little baby fat, and rolled on the fried bean yellow powder for a few rolls, so that it is covered with gold powder. Soybean flour, also known as stir-fried powder, is a fine powder made of raw soybeans after being fried, and the bean flour is mixed with brown sugar, with the unique bean flavor of soybeans and the sweet aroma of brown sugar. The process of rolling the winter solstice circle in the bean yellow powder is called "beating" by the hometown people, which means "caiyuan (source) rolling in".
About the Author
Wang Han is a writer and scholar. He is a member of the Chinese Writers Association, a member of the Plenary Committee of the Zhejiang Writers Association, and the vice chairman of the Taizhou Writers Association. He is a member of Zhejiang Photographers Association. He has published 16 works such as "Zhejiang Interesting", "Jiangnan Grass and Trees", "No Fresh Rice", "Whispers of the Earth - Twenty-Four Solar Terms of Jiangnan" and so on. Many works have been selected into the Annual List of China Good Books and the Annual List of Good Books of Zhejiang Edition, and their works have been selected into dozens of selected books such as "Selected Essays of the Year in the 21st Century" and "Selected Contemporary Chinese Essays". "Whispers of the Earth - Twenty-Four Solar Terms of Jiangnan" was included in the works recommended by the Ministry of Education to the national primary and secondary school libraries (rooms).
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Source: Qianjiang Evening News Hourly News