laitimes

Kyo flavor in white boiled meat

author:Jia Pu's house fish

Generally Chaoshan people, every time to worship the gods or family sacrifices, the table of a variety of offerings, indispensable a piece of white boiled pork, in the early years, as a sacrifice of white boiled meat in general, the skin was brushed red, and later because of the red skin to eat inconvenience, it was changed to a small piece of red paper on the side of the meat.

I remember when I was a child, after the sacrifice, my fathers would cut this piece of boiled meat into slices and eat it with washed raw artemisia and dipped in white vinegar after the sacrifice, which was rated as very sweet and delicious.

I have always wondered why chaoshan people, who are famous for their good cooking at home and abroad, would let a piece of boiled meat appear so firmly on the table and table? Until the other day, I read the book "Jingwei'er" and suddenly understood that this was a royal traditional food that came from the capital.

According to the author of "Jingwei'er", after the Manchus won the battle, there was a tradition of feasting on the children of the Eight Banners to eat white boiled meat, in addition, the Manchus on June 26 to sacrifice Guan Laoye, the winter solstice sacrifice to the ancestors will also use white boiled meat, after the sacrifice ceremony, as an offering of white boiled meat for people to enjoy, they call it "the heart to the gods, the upper for people to eat", probably also the Chaoshan people often say "first respect the gods, then respect the people" it.

After the Shunzhi Emperor entered Beijing, in order to show that he did not forget the traditions of his ancestors, he specially added two large cauldrons to the Kunning Palace, specially making white boiled meat, and rewarding the princes and nobles and the ministers of culture and military affairs. As soon as the emperor took the lead, the princes and nobles in the various royal palaces followed suit, and the white boiled meat used for sacrifice in the royal palace would be rewarded to the subordinates in the palace when they could not finish eating.

One after another, the way of eating white boiled meat was spread to the people, so there was a saying in the capital that "no one is a vegetarian", because being able to eat white boiled meat means that how to get involved with the upper class of the nobility is naturally not good at bullying.

Chao Shang went north in the morning, footprints all over Beijing and Tianjin, for the popular "no one is a vegetarian" in the Four-Nine Cities, presumably deeply touched, deeply interested, climbing up the prince and nobles is difficult to say, learning a hand of white boiled meat is not a word. Of course, the taste of white boiled meat should also be good.

In fact, after reading "Jingweier", I feel that there is an uncompromising Beijing flavor in Chaoshan culture, and the most prominent thing is that Chaoshan people learn the sense of ritual in Beijing culture, the devotion to heaven and earth, the worship of gods, and the devotion and meticulousness of ancestors; solemnity in the three major events of human birth, adulthood, and death; authentic dishes and snacks pay attention to pure taste, clear distinction and so on.

In this way, Chaoshan is not far away from the high emperor of the provincial tail state, and the culture of the capital has penetrated the lives of the Chaoshan people early on.

Finally, this is just the author's reading of the "Jingweier" essay, and the argument is not verified.