If you ask which city in China is the most popular", Shanghainese have a lot of say. Today, let's relive the brief history of modu coffee drinking and experience this coffee culture. The comment area told Xiaobu that Nong was happy to eat tea or coffee?
Fattening, Jiafei, Gao feng, Kaofei...
After 1843, foreigners opened Western-style restaurants in Shanghai. According to the "Shanghai Tongzhi", the earliest Western-style pastry business in Shanghai was the Lao De Ji Pharmacy founded by the Englishman J. Lewellyn, located at No. 1, Huayuan Lane (now Nanjing East Road). Lao Deji mainly deals in European and American proprietary medicines, and also deals in medical equipment, cosmetics, tobacco and alcohol, candy, cold drinks, etc. At first, coffee was used as a "cough potion", and with the promotion and popularization of Western food, this "cough potion" gradually became fashionable.
After the coffee entered Shanghai, it was initially sold by foreign companies, and then roasted and stir-fried in cafes and Western restaurants, commonly known as "small pot coffee". In 1924, Gonghe Xiangyuji Coffee Company was founded and began to mass-produce coffee, which also set a precedent for the production of solid beverages in Shanghai.
The earliest known cookbook on coffee is a Western-style cookbook written in Chinese by Westerners, the Book of Making Foreign Rice, published in 1866 by the American Chinese Library, edited by Mrs. Crawford. The author came to Shanghai with his husband in the spring of 1852. Mr. and Mrs. Gao Di Pi were highly accomplished in Chinese, and published a variety of Chinese missionary manuals and other books during their time in China.
The 1885 edition of the Book of Making Foreign Rice is covered in seal and prefaced in English
The "Book of Making Foreign Rice" introduces the practice of 268 kinds of Western dishes and Western food. "Coffee" is translated as "bumping fat" in the book, which is probably one of the earlier translations of "coffee" in China. The book reads:
Bump fat Burn the fat, shovel it diligently, and don't scorch it. Bake well, add a little cream to the heat, put it in a bottle with a lid, and cover well. When you want to use it, roll it now. Two tablespoons of bumping fat, an egg, with a skin (Note: unclear meaning, suspected egg white) under the fat, blended up, stewed for ten hours, then heat two cups of water, one away from the fire, add half a cup of cold water, do not move steadily.
In addition to "bumping fat", in the newspapers and books of the time, "coffee" can be described as a variety of names. The first mention in the Declaration was in the Article on September 22, 1873, "Telegram of the Closure of the Great Bank of England and Beijing is a False Rumor", when "coffee" was translated as "Jiafei".
There is a sentence in the text: "In the British State of Sealand, the wind rumors have a kind of production and Africa, which has been in deficit"
On November 10, 1875, the word "coffee" appeared for the first time in an article published in the "Declaration".
There is a sentence in the text: "If you are thirsty, drink strong tea, if you have coffee tea, it is better"
In addition, at that time, you can also see the translations of "Jia Zhen" and "Jia Fei". It was not until the late 1920s that the imported product "coffee" had a relatively unified translation name - coffee.
An overview of cafes in the late Qing Dynasty and early Ming Dynasty
After 1880, many Chinese also followed the example of foreigners and opened Western restaurants. According to records, the first Western restaurant opened by the Chinese was "Yi Poinsettia" on Fuzhou Road: "China's set up a wanton sale of Western food, starting from a pinxiang on Fuzhou Road in Shanghai... Therefore, there are HaitianChun, Yijia Spring, Jiangnan Spring, Wan Changchun, Auspicious Spring, etc., and there are seats in separate rooms. "Yi Poinsettia was built in 1883 and relocated from Fuzhou Road to Xizang Road in the early 20th century, where it also operates hotels and Chinese and Western banquets, and Western restaurants also serve coffee.
A Poinsettia Restaurant on Xizang Road, Chinese and Western Hostel, photographed in 1917
However, whether it is operated by foreigners or local Chinese, at first the café was an attachment and did not have the nature of independent business. According to records, in 1886, an independent café appeared in the Hongkou District of the public concession, namely "Hongkou Cafe", which was mainly open to seafarers.
Archival documents show that the large number of commercial cafes appeared after 1920. According to the literature, the cafes that appeared more frequently in the 1920s were Carlton Café, Royal Café, Tkachenko Café, Welcome Café on Yuyuan Road, Shanghai Jiajia Cafe and Gong cafe on North Sichuan Road in Hongkou District.
Tekachenko Brothers Cafe at 643 Xiafei Road (present-day Middle Huaihai Road).
In 1910, a menu was served at the Carlton Café
Most of the foreigners who open cafes are French, Russian, Italian and Japanese expatriates. These cafes were mainly concentrated on Xiafei Road (present-day Middle Huaihai Road) and North Sichuan Road.
In the 1930s, a café near the Hongkou Jewish community
The Chinese that open cafes are mainly Cantonese. For example, the Shanghai JiajiaGuan on North Sichuan Road was opened by the Guangdong writer Zhang Ziping in 1928 with members of the Creation Society.
Speaking of "Sullivan" may feel strange to everyone, but when it comes to the state-owned Shanghai Yimin Food Factory, which produces "Guangming Brand" cold drinks, it must be much more cordial. Its predecessor was Sullivan Food Factory. In 1914, the American Sullivan opened a sullivan exquisite candy store, which changed owners and changed its name several times, and in 1925, it was officially named "Bakeries Co. Federal Inc. U.S.A）。 In Shanghai in the 1920s, Sullivan Cafe was more popular than Sullivan's candy and biscuits. There are two Sullivan Cafes: one on Nanjing Road, commonly known as East Sullivan, and one on Jing'an Temple Road (now West Nanjing Road) called West Sullivan. One of the specialties of Sullivan Cafe is that coffee is boiled in small pots to maintain the original aroma of coffee beans.
In the 1947 Shanghai City Map, East Sullivan at 229 Nanjing East Road
In the 1947 Shanghai City Map, West Sullivan, No. 883 Nanjing West Road (formerly Jing'an Temple Road) is opposite the Royal Cafe
DD'S on Xiafei Road is also one of the most famous cafes in old Shanghai, known as "SweetIe" by Shanghainese. Its location is diagonally opposite the Cathay Pacific Cinema, where drama and film actors are regulars. DD'S Café adopts a Western semicircular arch structure in the design of the gate and the exterior of the building, with a spiral spiral staircase, a long open glass window on the adjacent street, modern facilities such as toilets and telephones, and strong Western-style paintings, ornaments, and utensils.
Red memories in the café
Cafes are mostly located in the concession. Cafes are not only a space for Shanghai citizens to relax and entertain, gather and chat, but also play a special cover role for many revolutionary activities.
For example, the "Gong cafe" that Lu Xun often visited was the place where the "Left Alliance" gathered that year. In October 1929, the first preparatory meeting of the Left League was held here. According to Xia Yan's recollection, the preparatory meeting was generally held once a week, almost in the private room on the second floor of the "public coffee". Feng Naichao also mentioned "public brown" in his recollection: "There are very few customers, but we often go... Almost wrapped up by us. ”
The former site of the public coffee café is now a fashion commercial building in Shanghai. "Xinmin Evening News" reporter Li Mingzhen photographed
Sullivan Cafe on Jing'an Temple Road (present-day West Nanjing Road). Its English name is very interesting: "Chocolate Shop"
Shanghai Coffee Factory: Once thriving
After the victory of the War of Resistance Against Japan, small cafes increased dramatically on Shanghai Beach. From the Bund of Nanjing Road to Jing'an Temple alone, there are more than 30 cafes. By October 1946, there were 186 cafes in Shanghai, plus Western restaurants, and 297 places to drink coffee.
The "Shanghai brand" coffee produced by Shanghai Coffee Factory, as well as the popular malt milk creamer and chrysanthemum crystals, are also produced here
The well-known "Shanghai brand coffee" is produced from Shanghai Coffee Factory. In the 1960s and 1980s, almost all the coffee in the country came from here.
The predecessor of The Shanghai Coffee Factory was the "Desheng Coffee Shop" founded by Zhang Bao, a native of Zhejiang Province, in 1935 on Jing'an Temple Road. Zhang Baocun imports green coffee beans from abroad, roasted and processed, canned and bulk, and is .C with "C.P." Registered trademark, sold to Western restaurants, restaurants and cafes in Shanghai. At the same time, Desheng Coffee Shop also has a store on Jing'an Temple Road Desheng Cafe (C.P.C. Coffeehouse), retail and dine-in coffee.
Purchase order of Desheng Coffee Shop
In 1958, "C.P.C." The trademark was changed to the "Shanghai Brand" trademark. In March 1959, "Desheng Coffee Shop" was renamed as the local state-owned "Shanghai Coffee Factory", becoming the only enterprise in the country named after "Coffee".
Later, Shanghai coffee factories began to produce low-cost "coffee tea". In fact, as early as the 1930s, there were Samsung confectionery factories that produced Goose brand coffee tea. In the 1960s, it began to be produced by Shanghai Coffee Factory and changed to Shanghai brand coffee tea.
The so-called coffee tea, in fact, is some coffee beans ground into a very fine powder, and the powdered sugar is pressed into sugar cubes, and when drinking, it is directly put into boiling water like instant coffee.
Goose brand coffee tea produced in Fujian is still on sale today.
Donghai Cafe: Memories of a Generation of Shanghainese
After the reform and opening up, the number of foreign tourists who come to Shanghai for business activities and tourism has increased significantly, which has also brought infinite vitality to Shanghai's Western food market. The restaurant opened a music café to serve coffee, drinks and pastries, and the coffee industry in Shanghai gradually recovered.
The "East Sea Cafe" on Nanjing Road is a place where a generation of fashionable young people split their emotions. Its predecessor was the Mars Café, opened by Soviet Jews in 1934, specializing in Russian cuisine, borscht and so on. In 1954, after the Jewish boss returned to China, the café was changed to the Donghai Hotel, and in 1988, it was renamed "Donghai Cafe", which operated coffee, pastry, and Western cuisine. Donghai Cafe uses Hainan Island and Yunnan coffee beans, freshly ground and boiled, overflowing with aroma, and new and old customers come and go. In 1998, Donghai merged with Deokta Western Cuisine Society to form Deokta Western Cuisine Co., Ltd.
Donghai Cafe is aimed at the working class, and the menu prices around 1980 are: 1 corner of clear coffee 8 points, milk coffee 2 corners and 3 points, the top ice cream coffee is only 5 corners and 1 point; red braised beef is 1 yuan 1 corner, pork chops are 1 yuan 8 corners, country soup 2 corners are 7 points, and meal packages are 6 points. Even in 2007, the coffee here only sold for 10 yuan a cup, and many old Shanghai went to the East every day to the poster.
Today, a variety of coffees are springing up like mushrooms, and small coffee shops with different characteristics are scattered in the streets, alleys, shopping malls and buildings, and can be seen everywhere.
With the popularization of coffee culture, the production method of coffee is becoming more and more well-known: Italian, hand punch, cold extraction, siphon... And people who love to drink coffee are becoming more and more exquisite: different production methods will bring different purity, beans from different coffee origins have their own unique flavor, different degrees of roasting present different sour and bitter aromas, and even different filter paper textures can affect the quality of a cup of coffee...
For contemporary people, drinking coffee is no longer a symbol of fashion, and even more than a tongue-in-cheek enjoyment, perhaps it is a lifestyle choice, just like choosing to drink milk or soy milk every morning.