The fifth batch of national intangible cultural heritage lists was announced, and Peppery Soup became a national intangible cultural heritage, and Henan foodies cheered. In addition, snail powder and Shaxian snacks are also on the list. Too many intangible cultural heritages are always packaged into a soup and a bowl of noodles with a long history and a thousand years of history, but in fact, the products needed by modern society have long been diluted, and we must believe that a generation can create a generation of culture.
Xiao Peng | © Written
The star | © Typography
01
A welcome change
Shaxian snacks and snail powder, which have been spawned by modern society, have become national intangible cultural heritage, and foodies are very lively. Henan snack Hu Spicy Soup is also listed among them, or Xiaoyao Town, Xihua County, Zhoukou.
Unlike the cultural community's obsession with history, foodies do not care whether the things in their mouths have lasted for thousands of years, whether they have really been named by Qianlong and Cixi, and modern consumers are very calm in believing in their taste and consumption experience.
This, to some extent, shows that, at least at the national level, our understanding of intangible cultural heritage has taken a step forward: intangible cultural heritage cannot be stuck in history, but must believe that one generation has a generation's cultural creativity.
Cixi also did not know how many intangible cultural heritages had been "hand-picked" throughout the country
Shaxian snacks, snail powder, one originated from the Shaxian people who have no way to go out, and the other originated from the birth of modern industry by the Internet tide. And Henan's peppery soup is the epitome of the fusion of these two ways.
We have written many articles about peppery soup, and we have also analyzed in detail the love-hate entanglement between peppery soup and Beiwudu peppery soup in Xihua County' Xiaoyao Town, see details.
Regarding the taste, foodies have their own conclusions, but on history, equivalent to more intangible cultural heritage are a confused account, and because the pepper soup and other folk snacks, the history is rarely recorded, people can only be inferred through the origin of pepper, flow cloth, as a kind of civilian snack, should not be earlier than the Ming Dynasty.
According to legend, the predecessor of Hu Spicy Soup was the "Imperial Soup" given by Emperor Huizong of Song, and the Imperial Chef Zhao Qi carefully prepared a superior soup with the shaolin "Decanting Soup" and wudang "Consumption Tea" combined into one.
It is also said that the Peppery Soup has been on the Zhou Dynasty and Cao Wei, which is even if it is not nonsense, but also uses the ability to transfer flowers and elder trees.
We can delve into the cultural heritage, for example, some people explore the origin and rheology of pepper soup, and then study the role of ginger, pepper and star anise, which itself belongs to the study of traditional food culture, which should naturally be encouraged;
Some people also think that hu spicy soup is related to the wandering migration of the Central Plains people, in the years of soldiers and horses, food is not enough, the soup can fill the hunger, spicy is relieved of exhaustion, which is a good entry point for the study of regional culture.
But after entering the industrial society, as a diet, we should take a clear stand against the "old paper pile" of food and package it into a dazzling millennium court dish. Of course, from this point of view, the peppery soup is not yet so exaggerated, which is reassuring.
02
Shaxian snacks, the future of peppery soup?
At the same time as the peppery soup, it became an intangible cultural heritage, as well as Shaxian snacks and Liuzhou snail powder.
"Wherever there is well water, there are Shaxian snacks", now it seems that this is true. According to a data, Shaxian snacks have spread across 62 countries and regions, with more than 88,000 Snack Stores and 3,103 Chain Standard Stores nationwide, with an annual turnover of more than 50 billion yuan and 300,000 jobs.
Shaxian snacks are well-deserved "national snacks"
However, in the external publicity, Shaxian snacks have not escaped the big history of the mortar, such as:
"Shaxian snacks inherit the food culture tradition from the Yellow River Basin of the Central Plains, steaming, boiling, frying, roasting, pickling... Various techniques and techniques have been handed down to the present day and are known as the "living fossils" of the traditional diet of the Chinese nation. ”
"Living fossils" are overused, and Shaxian snacks obviously do not have this function. However, in the early days, with the positioning of "1 yuan into the store, 2 yuan to eat, 5 yuan to eat well", it can now also be called "good quality and low price", and also led to the development of a county, in this sense, Shaxian snacks completed the transformation from snacks to a pillar industry.
From a deeper level, the process of Shaxian snacks to expand the territory can be regarded as a swing of the intestines and indomitable. In the early 1990s, a form of financing in Popular Shaxian County went bankrupt, and countless people in Shaxian County were destitute overnight. Since then, Deng Shiqi and his wife have gone south to open a snack bar, and the grand blueprint of Shaxian snacks has been opened.
· In 1997, the Snack Culture Festival was held in Shaxian County
The origin of peppery soup has not yet been so tragic. However, judging from the current number of stores and market coverage, it is not impossible to compete with Shaxian snacks in the future.
According to a data from the ruler of Xihua County, Xihua Peppery Soup has gradually developed to the road of scale, industrialization and branding, forming 19 large-scale leading production enterprises, with an annual output value of 1.5 billion yuan and a national market share of more than 90%.
Like Shaxian snacks, the national expansion of Xihua County's Peppery Soup is also the process of gradually hitting the world with fellow villagers and hugging groups to heat up, in addition to Peppery Soup, Xihua County's "main business" is to open rental, contract land and bath services.
Not relying on the sky and not relying on the ground, Shaxian snacks and peppery soup fully embody the typical characteristics of the local society, and form an industrial jianghu of mutual help and mutual assistance with the countryside. Entering the modern society, after becoming a grand industry, the rulers saw the benefits of economic development, and then with policy guidance and blessing, an industrial brand with a national reputation was launched.
03
Intangible cultural heritage should take care of the present
The road to fame of Liuzhou snail powder is a little "advanced". This is because the snail powder of the Plum Ziqi brand is on fire, the number one anchor has begun to bring goods, and even KFC has launched a pre-packaged chicken snail powder.
Snail powder, loved by people who love deeply, people who are disgusted frown. It is this bizarre oriental cuisine, and it is expected that the output value of bagged snail powder will exceed 9 billion in 2020, which is exactly 4 times the output value of Peppery Soup in Xiaoyao Town.
The reason lies in high-quality industrialization and a clear policy orientation.
At the beginning of 2015, Liuzhou City held a snail powder industry development conference, for the first time put forward the development concept of "industrialization, standardization, branding and scale" of Liuzhou snail powder, and determined that the Liuzhou snail powder industry was bagged and bagged to take the mechanized production road.
· Modern snail powder factory
A bowl of flour can absorb more than 250,000 jobs, and 500,000 mu of snail powder raw material bases including rice, bamboo shoots, beans, fungus, etc. and the industrial chains such as agriculture, food industry, and e-commerce are also booming.
Relatively speaking, the data shows that about 120,000 people in Xihua County are engaged in peppery soup business inside and outside the province, and in terms of industrial products, Xihua now has more than 60 different varieties of peppery soup series of spices, and the industrial system is gradually improving.
A bowl of snail powder, big industry.
A Shaxian snack, a big industry.
A bowl of peppery soup is a big industry.
Only now, these industries have been installed in a seemingly contradictory name "national intangible cultural heritage".
But we want to give a thumbs up to this year's pickers. Once upon a time, when talking about intangible cultural heritage, it was either experts discussing and publishing articles, or it was a cookie-cutter performance, where were the real "people" placed? The people here, the first refers to the inheritors, and the second refers to the recipients of cultural heritage, that is, the general public. Then there are experts and scholars who provide guidance, government officials who formulate policies, and so on.
UNESCO has also made it clear that there are two concepts worth grasping for the protection of intangible cultural heritage, the first is people, and the second is "process" rather than "product".
A generation has created a generational culture, and the self-confidence we maintain does not all come from history, but more importantly, what we have now.
In this batch of Henan's national intangible cultural heritage, along with the peppery soup, there are also gold and jade making techniques (Yuxian gold inlaid jade making technology), magic (Baofeng magic), etc., the former is said to have a history of 400 years, the latter originated in the Ming Dynasty Wanli period.
But history can not explain too much, countless things are annihilated with the torrent of time, everything has its development law, cultural heritage, handicrafts are also, "retain a part, give up a part, develop a part", this is not inaction, but for better continuation.
Shaxian Snack Industrial Park, the roof of the building facing it is written with several large red characters - "Tell the truth and work hard, dare to fight and dare to go up". I think that in terms of cultural inheritance, we can have fewer old paper piles, fully rely on the dividends of modern science and technology and industrial development, and pay more attention to the lives of our contemporary people.