Most people have a cult of blind masters and want to be like them, with a keen sense of smell and precise judgment. I believe everyone is also curious, how do they perceive wine? How do they "sketch" the structure of the various components of the wine bit by bit like a cattle?
Today, The Encyclopedia Jun starts from the composition of wine, dissecting the thinking logic of blind tasting masters bit by bit.
This article is purely dry goods, and can be collected and read slowly.
1. Perception: The composition of wine
A wine contains more than 1,000 different flavor substances, half of which are produced by yeast during fermentation. Some of these flavor substances are highly volatile and can be smelled directly, while others require shaking the cup to smell it.
(1) Alcohol
The most important component of wine, in addition to water, is alcohol, or ethanol. It is produced by yeast cells fermenting sugars. Although alcohol has no taste, it can bring the body or concentration of the wine to the wine, and it will change the feeling that the other components of the wine give us. For example, two wines with similar styles, a wine with a medium alcohol content, will taste better than a wine with a high alcohol content. Alcohol is too high, easily masking the fruity flavor and aroma of the wine. Alcohol should be balanced with the other ingredients in the wine so that it does not appear obtrusive.
(2) Acidity
Wine grapes contain Malic Acid, Tartaric Acid and a small amount of Citric Acid. Tartaric acid stabilizes the wine, but it also precipitates bitartrate crystals. Malic acid can be converted into lactic acid by different forms of deactivation. This process is called malolactic fermentation, malolactic acid conversion, or second fermentation.
Secondary fermentation can occur naturally, but usually requires the intervention of the required lactic acid bacteria, which are generally alcoholic cocci. Lactic acid is softer and more plump than malic acid, which will make the wine more rounded and full-bodied. Aromatic white grape varieties, such as Riesling and Qiongyao pulp, are not suitable for malolactic fermentation.
Other acidic substances in wine, including succinic acid, acetic or acetic acid, as well as butyric acid. Succinic acid is an incidental to the fermentation process, and excess acetic or butyric acid can cause blemishes in the wine's aromas, such as milk that smells like spoiled milk or rancid butter. The acidity in wine not only brings freshness, structure and difference to the wine, balancing alcohol, sugar and flavor substances, but also dissolves the fat in the matching food.
(3) Sugar
Grapes contain almost equal amounts of glucose and fructose. During fermentation, they are converted into ethanol. Sometimes, because the glucose content is high and the fermentation process is inhibited, the wine will have a certain amount of residual sugar. During fermentation, yeast preferentially eats glucose, so most sweet wines drink like sweet fructose. It is difficult to detect the presence of residual sugar residues of 4 g/l and below in dry wines.
(4) Polyphenols
Polyphenols are a large class of chemicals that are mainly found in grape skins. Polyphenols affect the taste of wine and, over time, interact with other chemicals in wine, producing large numbers of Second and Third Class flavor substances.
Anthocyanins are a class of red, blue and purple polyphenols that penetrate into red wines during fermentation through contact with the peel. Anthocyanins, a polyphenol substance, are unstable, and in the case of aerobics, they will react with tannin molecules to form larger compounds precipitated in wine, resulting in the loss of some colors.
Tannins are a type of polymeric polyphenols found in grape skins, grape seeds and grape stems, oak, mostly found in red wines, but some white wines will also undergo a short period of peel contact to obtain a slight astringent feeling on the palate.
Tannins are perceived by a sense of convergence and bitterness of texture or structural elements that interact with saliva proteins to form macromolecular compounds that inhibit salivary lubrication of the mouth, resulting in a dry, wrinkled sensation in the mouth.
Tannins act with proteins and fats in food, removing the film left in the mouth by fat in food and exposing our taste buds to food again. This is why strong tannin wines are a good match for meat or cheese, reducing the bitterness and jerkiness in the mouth.
(5) Volatile compounds
We perceive most of the aromas and flavor substances of wine through our noses, not our tongues. This is because when volatile substances detached from the surface of the liquor come into contact with the olfactory bulbs in the nasal cavity, the nose will cause perception of this. Some of these volatile substances come from the grapes themselves, and some are by-products of chemical reactions during fermentation or wine maturation.
Usually, the aroma we smell in the wine is derived from a certain or a specific type of volatile compound. These compounds include: esters, terpenes, sedge odones, pyrazine, mercaptans, lactones, aldehydes and fusel oils.
Ester compounds oleic acid react with alcohol and are often produced during fermentation, malolactic acid conversion and aging to enhance the floral and fruity aromas of wines. Special yeast populations and fermentation temperatures are critical to the production of esters.
Terpenes are mainly derived from the grapes themselves and have an important influence on the characteristics of many white grape varieties such as Muscat, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Albarino, Torrontes and Viognier. In wine, the most important terpenes include geraniol (rose), dehydrolinals (linden or lime tree). Compounds associated with the aroma of older Riesling gasoline can also be classified as terpenes.
Sedge odone belongs to the aromatic sesquiterpene. Among the wines, it is one of the characteristics of grapes such as Mourvedre and Gruner Veltliner, derived from the essential oils of pepper, rosemary and geranium. Sedge odone comes from the grapes themselves, which contain more of these substances in colder regions and vintages. Its sensory threshold is so low that about 20% of people are unaware of its presence.
Pyrazine is found in Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and other Bordeaux varieties, presented in herbal and plant aromas, associated with green peppers, grasses, leaves, herbs, etc. The ripeness of the grapes at harvest is inversely proportional to the richness of pyrazine.
Mercaptans are mainly found in Sauvignon Blanc, but can also be found in Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Semillon grapes. Like terpenes, they have a strong odor and are often associated with the smells of gooseberry, grapefruit, passion fruit, guava, cat urine and sweat.
Lactones can be derived from the grapes themselves, from the fermentation and ageing stages, the process of noble decay, hops and contact with oak barrels. American oak carries more lactones than French oak, while French oak barrels carry more tannins. Oak lactones can bring aromas of coconut and vanilla, the most important volatile compound that oak brings to wine.
Fenugrette lactones have nutty and coffee qualities and are the main volatile substances found in alcoholic hops such as Sherry.
Aldehydes are a by-product of fermentation, the most important aldehyde is acetaldehyde, which is found in more than 90% of many wines and is one of the most important aromas in sherry wines. Acetaldehyde is produced during the micro-oxidation of red wine polymerization tannins.
2. Practice: How to blind products?
After an in-depth understanding of the composition of the various parts of the wine, it is now time to the actual combat. An experienced blind wine taster will form a memory knowledge base in his mind. This makes its identification faster and more accurate.
(1) Appearance
Observe for air bubbles. With the exception of Beaujolais Nouveau, bubbles are rarely used in red wines. If any, it is also from the secondary fermentation in the bottle.
Look at the color. For white wines, the light color suggests that it is still in a young state, or from a cold region. Conversely, the depth of color means that the wine may have been fermented in oak barrels, aged, or aged in bottles, or from a warmer region.
Pale white wine styles include Mosel Riesling, Clare Valley Riesling, Muscadelle, Sancerre, Chablis, Pinot Gris and Hunter Valley Semillon. With green edges are usually young Rieslings, Sauvignon Blanc, Chabry, Juranson, Gruner Veltliner and Albarino.
For red wines, the light color of the wine suggests that it is related to thin-skinned varieties, such as Pinot Noir and Gamy, or it may be because the grapes are grown in a cold climate, insufficient maturity, young vine age, high yield, rainy harvest season, short oak barrel age, short in-bottle maturation period. The color depth is often related to thick-skinned varieties such as Tannat, Malbec, Corvina, etc., but it may also be because the grapes grow in a warm climate with strong sunshine and high tannin extraction.
To judge the cause of wine color, we need to consider the climate in which the grapes are grown and the intensity of the sun. For example, the Pinot Noir liquor in Central Otago will be darker than in Burgundy, and the bordeaux blend in napa Valley will be darker than bordeaux. Malbec in Cahors is dark purple, while Malbec in Mendoza is jet black.
Pinot Noir in Central Otago, New Zealand, is a deep ruby red color
Wines fermented or aged in oak barrels will have a darker color. But there are exceptions. Nebbiolo wines, for example, can also show brick-red or rust-colored edges when they are young.
(2) Smell
First judge whether it is from a colder region or a warmer area. Wines from cold regions have fresh fruity notes such as lemon, grapefruit, etc., while wines from warmer regions have more ripe fruity flavors such as pineapple, banana, lychee, mango and more. Wines from warm regions will also have flavors of raisins and air-dried fruits. Such as Amarone wine.
Judge whether there is a first type of aroma. The first type of aroma in the sense of smell will provide us with the greatest clue to determine the grape variety. Some of the most aromatic varieties include: Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Joan Yao Pulp, Musk, Albalino, Viogni and Tezon. If it's a neutral white wine, they're likely to be neutral grape varieties like Pinot Blanc and Melon de Bourgogne.
Judge if there is any sign of oak. Oak barrels are mainly divided into European barrels and American barrels, which are divided into old and new. Aromatic varieties are rarely fermented and aged in oak barrels. Rioja wines are basically aged in American barrels.
Determine if there is any infection with noble rot mold. White wines infected with noble rot mold have aromas of honeysuckle, honey and beeswax, and the concentration of the aroma is positively correlated with the degree of infection of grape rot mold. For example: Tokaji Aszu in Hungary, Spatlese Riesling in Late Harvest in Germany, etc.
(3) Taste
Old and New World style. World winemaking styles are generally bolder and fruity flavors more prominent. Old World minerals and soils have a pronounced flavor and significant acidity.
tannin. In red wines, the tannin content is related to the thickness of the grape peel and the grape variety. It is widely believed that the depth of the wine color is associated with the tannin content, but if low-temperature steeping is used, very few tannins are extracted from the thick-skinned grape variety. At the same time, some grape varieties, such as Nebioro, have a very high tannin content, although the color of the wine is very light.
Nebbiolo's two major renditions: Barolo and Babaresco: both are lighter
acidity. Cold climates, premature picking, etc. can lead to a high acidity of the wine. However, some grape varieties, such as Riesling, are themselves highly acidic.
alcohol. Alcohol is an indicator of grape ripeness and the climate in which it grows. In dry wines, a large part of the body is alcohol.
sweetness. The sweetness we feel in our mouths is not only brought about by residual sugar, but also by other components of wine, such as alcohol, glycerin (an important by-product of the fermentation process), fruit esters and oak vanilla esters.
(4) Quality assessment
Wine identification should be based on a wealth of knowledge of grape varieties and region terroir. In general, top wines from lesser-known countries such as South Africa are of higher quality and value for money.
There are 5 criteria for evaluating wine quality: Balance, Length, Intensity, Complexity and Typicity, or BLISS for short.
The sense of balance means that the various components of the wine do not have any abruptness or dominance, and the sense of taste and smell echo perfectly, like the sound of trumpets and cellos in an orchestra, perfectly intertwined.
Aftertaste refers to the persistence of flavor. Richness refers to the concentration of flavor, as well as the impact in the mouth.
Complexity refers to the number of flavors and aromas of each category.
A good wine reflects the soil, climate, traditional viticulture and winemaking techniques of the place of origin. Of course, typicality is not the only criterion for judging wines of exceptional standard. For example, "Super Tuscans" is a representative of subversion of tradition.
Antoni Tenna Dry Red: One of the representatives of "Super Tuscany": made with Bordeaux varieties
3. Summary: Blind product case analysis
(1) Tasting Note 1
Color: Dark golden yellow
Aroma: Intense, concentrated, complex, with aromas of honeysuckle, honey, dried apricots, sugar cane
Palate: Full body, rich and sweet, high amount of residual sugar, medium alcohol, burning sensation, low acidity, long aftertaste
After the sweetness fades, there is a salty and dry aftertaste
Analyze varieties, production areas, and quality:
Color: implies a certain age;
Aroma: Strong aroma, with some residual sugar, emitting honey, honeysuckle and other aromas
High quality: complex and rich flavor, long-lasting aftertaste,
Qiong Yao pulp: Lychee and other flavors are very prominent, the acidity is not high, excluding grape varieties with high acidity such as Riesling and Chenin Blanc
Alsace: The most typical production area for Qiongyao pulp is Alsace
Revealed: Pierre Brecht Gran Cru Frankstein Gewurztraminer 2009, Alsace, France, Pierre Brecht Gran Cru Frankstein Gewurztraminer 2009, Alsace, France)
(2) Tasting notes 2
Color: Dark ruby red
Intense and complex, the aromas are intense and complex, with hints of blackcurrant, black cherry, black pepper, followed by chocolate and caramel
Palate: High in tannins but very silky in texture, full-bodied
The flavor is extremely rich, the aftertaste is long-lasting, clean and the alcohol content is high
Strength: This wine is very impactful, but the quality is very silky, and the structure is very balanced
Cabernet Sauvignon-based Bordeaux blend: blackcurrant and black pepper are obvious and very impactful
Napa Valley: A Bordeaux blend that belongs to the New World, using American barrels and possibly French passes.
Aged: The tannins of this wine are very high, but the texture is as silky as velvety, indicating that oak barrels have been oxidized for a certain period of time
Top-quality worship wines: high complexity, high intensity, long aftertaste, balanced structure, strong typicality
High quality: high concentration of richness, long aftertaste, complex
Revealed: Merryvale Profile Proprietary Red Blend 2009, Napa Valley, USA
Wine Encyclopedia Summary:
(1) In the world of blind goods, experience and practice are irreplaceable;
(2) It is very necessary to master the basic knowledge of grape varieties and terroirs of the appellation;
(3) More summary, more thinking, blind test is our ability to logical reasoning.