"Spicy Girls" Should Have Been in the North: The History of the Chinese Spread of Chili Peppers

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"Spicy Girls" Should Have Been in the North: The History of the Chinese Spread of Chili Peppers

　Cheng Jie | professor and doctoral supervisor of the College of Literature of Nanjing Normal University

The original title is "Examination of the Origin and Early Spread of Peppers in China"

This article was originally published in the 3rd issue of the "Reading River Journal" in 2020

Thanks to the author for authorizing the push

Unless noted, the pictures in the text are from the Internet

China's pepper was introduced from the New World crops of the Americas, and many scholars have participated in the discussion on the time of introduction to China and the spread process in China.

The earliest record of chili peppers in China is not "Zunsheng Eight Notes" but "Qunfang Spectrum"

Nowadays, when discussing the origin of chili peppers in China, many people cite Ming Gaolian's "Zunsheng Eight Notes" volume 16 "pepper": "Peppercorn, bush, white flower." The child is bald, spicy, red, and very impressive. Subspecies. The first volume of the book, Gao Lian (1527-1596, from Hangzhou, Zhejiang), and Tu Long (from Yinxian County, Zhejiang) were both written at the time of writing "Wanli Xindi", that is, the nineteenth year of the Wanli Calendar (1591). Commentators unanimously push that it is the beginning of the record of chili peppers in China's literature, and correspondingly form the theory that chili peppers were imported from the southeast coast of Zhejiang and other southeast coasts, but this is not the case in fact.

(1) The content of the "pepper" in the "Eight Notes of Zunsheng" is not from the nineteenth year of the Wanli Calendar

The author found that pumpkin is the earliest american New World crop introduced to China, which first appeared in Beijing and Hebei, and should be brought to Beijing by portuguese envoys in the last years of Ming Zhengde as an ornamental plant seed, and flowed into the folk by the royal garden planting. To this end, a new interpretation of Li Shizhen's statement that "planting out of nanfan and transferring to Fujian and Zhejiang" was made, and the serious errors in the relevant expositions of the present generation were clarified. For the sake of prudence, peppers, which are also crops of the New World, were chosen as a reference. Because the edible value of pepper in new world crops is not prominent, the fruit is bright red, and the ornamentality is relatively distinct, it is possible to introduce it at the same time as pumpkin, and it should also appear in the Beijing area as early as possible. However, many of the current people's arguments first appeared in Zhejiang, which is not reasonable enough. If it were not for the special channels of royal exchanges, purely transmitted by folk nature, it would not have entered our country so quickly. This cannot but make the author suspicious of the time of the "nineteenth year of the Wanli Calendar (1591)". In addition, the "bushing" mentioned in the records is obviously inconsistent with the growth state of peppers, which is also questionable. So I had to seriously investigate, and sure enough, there were problems with the time and content of this so-called earliest record.

The problem is in philology. There are two main versions of the Eight Notes of Zunsheng as seen today. The first is the preface to the nineteenth year of the Ming Wanli Calendar, each volume is marked "Yashangzhai Zunsheng Eight Notes", commonly known as Yashangzhai Ben. Ya Shangzhai is Gao Lian's alias, which should have been the first engraving, which was actually written by Gao Lian. The second is the String Xueju reproduction, the end of the volume is titled "String Xueju Re-ordered Zunsheng Eight Notes", and the editor's signature "Jingling Zhong Yi Bo Jing Father Proofreading", most of which are engraved since qing Jiaqing. Zhong Yi (1574-1625, Hubei Tianmen people) character Bo Jing, living later than Gao Lian, the so-called Zhong's proofreading should be a bookseller to promote the name. The two versions have some different details in the main text, such as the "pepper" this Ya shang Zhai ben is not, but found in the string snow ju ben. The latter has more engravings and has become a common and easy to see. The "Eight Notes of Zunsheng" compiled by the present person is actually based on the original text of The String Snow. For example, the 1988 edition of the bashu book society's full edition of "Zunsheng Eight Notes", although it does not explain the version on which it is based, only in terms of the "Yan XianQing Appreciation Notes" part of it, it belongs to the String Snow Ju Ben system. The 1994 edition of the People's Medical Publishing House, Zhao Lixun et al., "Notes on the Eight Notes of Zunsheng", the "Annotations on the Annotations" at the beginning of the volume, said that "the Ming Periodical Yaben was selected as the base, and the Chongzhen engraved version and the string book were the main school texts", and where the original version was correct, "the original text shall prevail", and if there are any changes, they will be "explained out of the school". This proofreading example is very scientific, but the whole book is written by many people, and the strictness is different. The author checked one by one, volumes 3 to 7 are basically handled according to this, while volumes 9, 12, 15, 16, 19 have many entries, and even the new content of the large section of the string book is not noted, and the actual use is the string snow ju ben instead of the Yashang Zhai ben. The "pepper" article is in volume 16, and the string snow is mostly supplemented. The String Snow Ju Ben is engraved according to the Ya Shang Zhai Ben, and most of the page text starts and branches are exactly the same, if there is a small amount of addition, it is added in the form of small character annotation. For example, the small characters under the inscriptions of "Citrus Shell Flower" and "Two Kinds of Red Banana Flowers" and the small characters at the end of the "Hanging Orchid Two Kinds" of the volume are all engraved in the blank space of the original version. If there are further additions, in order not to affect the layout of the next page, delete the content of the confusing sentences in the page article and replace them with the same amount of text. Volume 16 "Pepper" article is added by deleting a paragraph of text from the "Four Kinds of Ruixiang Flowers" article on the same page. The annotated version of these changes to the String Snow Ju Ben are all accepted without any explanation. The 2007 edition of the People's Medical Publishing House, Wang Dachun, and other collated editions also state that the first edition of Ya Shangzhai is the base and the Xianxue Ju ben is the school, but it basically adopts the results of Zhao Lixun's annotated version, at least the main text of the 16th volume of the "Eight Notes on Zunsheng" is completely consistent, and there is no explanation. The current commentator's quotation from the "Pepper" material of the "Eight Notes on Zunsheng" should be a text provided only for these modern publications seen, and the time of writing is set to the nineteenth year of the Wanli Calendar, without noticing the difference in versions, resulting in relevant judgments and expositions that cannot be unmistakable.

(2) The "pepper" mentioned in the "Qunfang Spectrum" is the earliest record of Chinese peppers

Perhaps under the influence of the saying that chili peppers were first contained in the "Eight Notes of Zunsheng" in the nineteenth year of the Wanli Calendar, many commentators often mention the "chili flowers" mentioned in the twenty-third "meditation judgment" of Tang Xianzu's "Peony Pavilion", and also regard them as earlier chili pepper information. "Peony Pavilion" was published in the forty-fifth year of the Wanli Calendar (1617), and there is an interlude in the play text, and the end corner holds up "pepper flower", and the net echoes: "Narrow the yin heat." This means that the chili flower can remove the yin and dampness. The author believes that the Tang "Chu Xue Ji" has the palm of "Jin Liu Zhen's wife Yuan Ri Presented "Ode to the Pepper Flower"", and Du Fu's "Du Wei Zhai Shou Nian" has the sentence "Shou Nian Ah Rong Family, pepper plate has been praised for flowers", and after that, pepper flowers became a common poetry classic. In the Ming Dynasty, Shu pepper, Qin pepper and the like have been called peppercorns, because the pepper is spicy and called "pepper flower", which is the character in the play casually put together a three-word flower name to joke, can not be regarded as referring to the flower of the plant pepper mentioned today. Presumably in the Ming Dynasty, even if the pepper was introduced to Middle-earth in the nineteenth year of the Wanli Calendar, it is widely known whether the pepper flower was immediately used for medicinal purposes, and it is doubtful. Peppers bloom fine white flowers, extremely inconspicuous, whether they can attract attention, used as a joke, is even more questionable. In fact, the term "chili pepper" appeared in the earlier Shen Zhou (1427-1509) "Ishida Miscellaneous", which is called "red yeast method: take the pepper first, no matter how much, dry it to the end", 5 with glutinous rice and other and sake koji brewing. The book was written during the ming dynasty (1465-1487), when Columbus had not yet discovered the New World, and the so-called "chili pepper" should be a spicy pepper, which refers to the pepper, not the pepper. Brewing wine with peppers, as early as the "Book of Poetry , Zai qian" has been said, pepper to increase the aroma is an extremely ancient brewing tradition, "Qi Min Zhi Shu" that is, there are peppers, dried ginger and wine methods, can not be just because of the word "pepper" two consecutive name to think that it must be pepper.

The author believes that the earliest chili pepper information in China's literature should be the record of the Ming Dynasty Xiangjin's "Qunfang Spectrum":

Pepper, also known as Qin pepper. White flowers, like bald pen heads, red and delicious, very spicy taste. Subspecies.

Wang Xiangjin's "Qunfang Genealogy" has called it a kind of book, but in fact, it is classified and compiled, not only the composition of various types of literature and materials, but also the words of many authors summarizing supplements, using Wang Xiangjin's self-description as "taking the calendar involved in weekdays and consulting people and writing it", and its compilation is only "to make up for what is not prepared for consultation". The appendix of the "pepper" article is at the end of the "pepper" item, and no one has seen the predecessors say that it should be the result of Wang Xiangjin's "consultation". Today, the Ming Dynasty "Qunfang Genealogy" inscribed Wang Xiangjin from the first year of the Apocalypse (1621). According to Wang Xiangjin' Shuba, the Qunfang Genealogy was mainly written from the 42nd year of the Wanli Calendar (1614) to the first year of the Apocalypse, when the author Ding Mu was deposed and relegated to his hometown of Xincheng (present-day Huantai, Shandong). Wang Xiangjin described himself as "more than ten cold and hot summers", and later there should be a small amount of additions. In the second year of Chongzhen (1629), Wang Xiang was reinstated as a suffragan governor of Su Songchang Town, stationed in Changshu, Jiangsu. Some scholars have verified that the book was originally engraved and printed by the Mao Family KiguGe in Changshu, Jiangsu Province.

This is the earliest ming dynasty writings on pepper (chili pepper). The content is extremely concise, including key elements such as aliases, flower colors, shapes, colors, tastes of fruits, and planting methods, except that the alias should belong to local languages, and everything else is accurate as measured by today's scientific knowledge. The time is set in the first year of the Apocalypse (1621) signed by Wang Xiangjin. Of course, this still needs to be clarified when similar content such as The Eight Notes of Zunsheng in the Xianxueju Ben appeared.

In the same period, jiangsu and Zhejiang publications such as The Eight Notes of Zunsheng were published in jiangsu and Zhejiang, and the statements were confused

The next question that must be clarified is whether the book or first edition of the "Eight Notes of Zunsheng" will be written or first published earlier than the "Qunfang Spectrum"? At about the same time as the publication of the "Qunfang Spectrum" or later, there are also some agricultural gardens, flowers, and life encyclopedias in suzhou and Hangzhou that also have "pepper" entries, which are also examined together.

(1) Xian Xueju Ben "Eight Notes of Zunsheng"

The key is the string snow ju ben. This book has been widely engraved since the Qing Dynasty, but the origin is not clear, and it is not clear whether the title of Xian Xueju is the name of the bookstore or the name of the re-stapler. At the end of the Ming Dynasty and the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, Tao Jue's compilation of the "Sayings of The Continuation of The Grass and Flowers" has collected Gao Lian's "Grass and Flower Spectrum", which is a selection of the contents of the herbs of the "Eight Notes of Zunsheng" of The Xianxue Juben, which also has a "pepper" article. Accordingly, The Eight Notes of Zunsheng should be written before the publication of the "Sayings of The Continuation", that is, a little before the end of the Ming Dynasty and the beginning of the Qing Dynasty. The Xianxue Juben was also proofread by Ming Zhong, and the circumstances of which were also marketed by the name of the bookseller should be published after the death of Zhong Yu in the fifth year of the Apocalypse (1625). There are two kinds of Xianxueju ben seen today: first, the National Library of China's Collection of Yonghuaitang Reprint, the so-called re-revision should be for the Yashang Zhai Ben, the collection of the bibliography is a Chongzhen engraving, the basis is unknown, but the time is very reasonable; the second is the Beijing Normal University Library Collection of Huashushu book, which is based on the Yonghuaitang Ben, and the time should be later. Both times are later than the Qunfang Spectrum, and the earliest is only during the Ming Chongzhen period.

Xian Xueju should have come from the hands of people in Jiangsu and Zhejiang. According to their own interests, and even more for the benefit of publication, the re-engravers have made some additions, deletions, and changes to some of the contents of the original book. Among them, volume 3 adds "Linshui Guanyu" a matter belonging to the ancient Wu Maoyuan in Suzhou, and volume 4 Hangzhou "Feilaidong Summer Escape" article adds a lot of text, and more detailed, it can be seen that the updater should be Wuxia (Suzhou) or People around Hangzhou. Volume 12 original "burdock" and "burdock" were replaced by Gao Lian's "Wild Yellow Spectrum", "Jiang Buck" and "Water Vegetable", which are also the preferences of people in the water towns around Suzhou and Hangzhou. The "pepper" article should be introduced to Wuzhong because of the book "Qunfang Spectrum", published by the Wu people, and then copied and supplemented.

Comparing the "pepper" content of the Xianxue Ju ben and the "Qunfang Spectrum", because the text was deleted in the "Six Kinds of Camellias" article of the original Yashang Zhai Ben, only two lines of space were vacated, one line title, and the main text could only be contained in one line and eighteen characters, and the "Pan Pepper" content of the "Qunfang Spectrum" had to be slightly compressed and adjusted. The main change in the string book is to delete the words "also known as Qin Pepper" and replace it with the word "Congsheng". The changes, while simple, are particularly noteworthy. From the original record of the chili pepper as "Qin pepper" in the shandong local chronicle discussed below, it can be seen that "also known as Qin pepper" should belong to the Lu people, not to the Wu people at that time, so it was directly deleted. The word "bush" in place is clearly wrong. Pepper is an herbaceous plant that is only annual in both Zhejiang and Shandong, and does not grow at the base. The reason is that the Eastern Jin Dynasty Guo Pu's "Erya Notes" said that "pepper trees are overgrown", which has become the basic knowledge of woody pepper plants in later generations, and the addition of string snow should be added to the name of peppers, and the word "bushes" is added in the name of peppers, and it is not known that it is incompatible with the growth status of peppers. This deletion fully exposes the adder's basic ignorance of Wang Xiangjin's "pepper" and is a copy of the "Qunfang Spectrum" and a vain change.

(2) Gao Lian's "Grass Fang Spectrum"

The book may be separated and printed by the relevant content of the string snow book, or it is possible to do the opposite, there is a single book first, and the corresponding content is then concentrated into the string book. Among them, the "pepper" strip is completely consistent with the string snow juben. The time should be at the same time as the string book or later.

(3) Xu Guangqi's "Complete Book of Agricultural Politics"

Xu Guangqi (1562-1633), a native of Shanghai (now Shanghai), Songjiang. "Complete Book of Agricultural Politics": "Pepper, also known as Qin pepper, white flowers, seeds like bald pen heads, red and impressive, the taste is very spicy." The content is basically the same as that of the "Qunfang Spectrum", and it is also attached to the end of the "pepper" article of the book. The self-written part of Xu Guangqi in the Complete Book of Agricultural Politics was written from the end of the Wanli Calendar to the beginning of the Heavenly Apocalypse, at the same time as the "Qunfang Spectrum". The Complete Book of Agricultural Politics seen today was revised by his protégé Chen Zilong (1608-1647) after the death of Xu Guangqi in the sixth year of Chongzhen (1633), and printed in the twelfth year of Chongzhen (1639). The content of "pepper" belongs to the supplementary part, which is later than the "Qunfang Spectrum", which should be a transcription of the "Qunfang Spectrum" that has been introduced to Wuzhong, the purpose is only to list the characteristics of different pepper species, and it is not enough to plant, so the word "sub-species" is deleted. The content is closest to the "Spectrum of Qunfang", and the time should be slightly earlier than other works, including The String Snow Juben.

(4) "The Strange Book of Getting Rich"

The book was edited by Chen Jiru (1558-1639), or as a false trust. Pepper strips: "Peppercorns, bushy, flowers like bald pen heads, red as blood, spicy taste, can be used as peppercorns." "It's about the same as String Snow. The word "Congsheng" added, when derived from the String Snow Ju ben, it is also possible that the two books are the same class of authors. What is more noteworthy is that the second sentence changes "zi" to "flower", which has two possibilities: one is caused by the sloppy rate of the book Jia's carving; the other is that because he does not understand the shape of the flowers and fruits of the pepper, he uses the traditional pepper fruit circle to push it, thinking that the bald pen head and red as blood mentioned here should be the shape and color of the flower and change it in vain. The author believes that the latter is more likely. At the same time, because it is an economic and practical guide for the public, the meaning of "considerable" of peppercorns has been deleted, and the functional description of "filling peppercorns" has been added. The earliest version of the book seen today is a Qing renren reprint, prefaced in the seventeenth year of the Kangxi Dynasty (1678). Some commentators claim that this book has been quoted by the Ming Dynasty Dai Xi's "Yangyu Yue Order", which was written in the sixth year of Chongzhen (1633) and supplemented thirteen years ago. In terms of its content and time, it should be roughly the same as the Xianxue Ju ben and the "Caofang Spectrum", and it should be compiled by reference from the jiangsu and Zhejiang shujia at the same time.

(5) Food Materia Medica

The book is written by Yuan Li Gao and Ming Li Shizhen, and the beginning of the volume has the Qian Yunzhi Order of the First Year of the Heavenly Revelation (1621) and the Order of Chen Jiru in the Eleventh Year of Chongzhen (1638). The book also has the content of the thirteenth and fourteenth years of Chongzhen, which is generally believed to have been edited by Yao Kecheng at the end of the Ming Dynasty and carved in the fifteenth year of Chongzhen (1642). Qian Yunzhi was a native of Suzhou; Chen Jiru was a native of Huating, Songjiang (present-day Songjiang, Shanghai); and Yao Kecheng ( Yao Kecheng ) was a native of Wu County , Suzhou ( present-day Suzhou , Jiangsu ) . Some versions of the book have the words "Wumen Shu Lin Zi Xing", which should come from the Suzhou area. Its "pepper" strip: "Peppercorn, out of Shu, is everywhere today, woody, low, and planted in pots for good play." Firm as a bell, the inners are extremely fine, and the food is ground into the food, which is extremely spicy. Pepper, spicy and warm, non-toxic. The Lord consumes food, dissolves qi, opens his appetite, wards off evil, and kills all kinds of poisons. Among them, "strong as a bell, the inner seed is very thin" and other descriptions are more suitable for the situation of chili peppers, but three obvious doubts arise: First, the name of the pepper is called "pepper", also known as "out of Shu zhong", the two contradictory. There are two traditional production areas of peppercorns in China: one is called Shu pepper, from Bashu; one is called Qin pepper, which is called From Gansu Tianshui in ancient times, and the other is from Qinling. The book lists the food and indicates the place of origin, but here it abandons the "Qin" mentioned in the "Qunfang Spectrum" and changes its name to "Shu", which should be because the Quality of Shu Pepper is superior to that of Qin Pepper, and it may also be said that it is another species of Shu Pepper, and it is more likely that the editor added it at will due to the requirements of the style, and the therapeutic effect mentioned is also similar to the "Cold Dehumidification, Dehumidification, Dehumidification, And Consumption of Food" under the "Shu Pepper" article of the "Compendium of Materia Medica". Second, call the pepper "woody". China's traditional peppercorns, and later peppers imported from the Western Regions and Southeast Asia are woody. Although there is a woody type in peppers, and there are some lignification tendencies in tropical or subtropical southern perennials, this phenomenon generally does not occur in Wuzhong, which is obviously said arbitrarily because of the traditional common sense of peppers. Third, the character description emphasizes the nature of bonsai, saying that "it exists everywhere today", which is also the language commonly used in the description of "Qin Pepper" in Materia Medica works since Li Shizhen's "Compendium of Materia Medica" in the middle of the Ming Dynasty. Combining these factors, the author believes that what is said in this paragraph should be mainly based on the knowledge of peppercorns and pepper plants used for bonsai cultivation, and integrate some "peppers", that is, the information of peppers.

It is not difficult to find that Xu Guangqi's "Complete Book of Agricultural Politics" is a regular agricultural book, which basically strictly adheres to the content of the "Qunfang Spectrum", and the other two are basically the same as the situation of The Eight Notes of Zunsheng in The Xianxue Ju ben. The latter three "pepper" content has the following commonalities: First, the description of pepper traits has been changed to some extent, and the changed parts have both a small number of more specific components about pepper traits, and also contain some content that is completely unrelated or obviously incompatible with pepper. Second, the authors emphasize ornamental value, which is obviously mixed with the ornamental impression and cultivation experience of some shrubs and vine pepper potted plants. In the specific description, there are also clumps, woody, and produced in Shu that are completely out of the actual situation of pepper, and more point to the characteristics of peppercorns and pepper plants. Third, the name of the pepper has changed significantly, and the theory of "also known as Qin pepper" has been abandoned uniformly, and there is a clear distance from the "Qunfang Spectrum". The slightly later "Food Materia Medica" is called "Out of Shu Zhong", which is completely different from the "Pepper" mentioned in the "Qunfang Spectrum". These abnormal information can be seen that the editor's understanding of the pepper mentioned in the "Group Fang Spectrum" is extremely limited or basically ignorant, most of which should be due to the name and content contained in the "Group Fang Spectrum", which is related to the corresponding literati pot playing with the experience of qing and the traditional pepper knowledge, and the plants mentioned are actually closer to the woody pepper and pepper plants, and may also integrate some pepper (pepper) hearing information.

This scenario can also be further grasped in connection with the corresponding content in Qing Chen's "Flower Mirror": "Pepper, a sea mad vine, commonly known as spicy tomato." Ben is one or two feet tall, overgrown, and white flowers. Autumn deep knots, like bald pen heads, upside down, first green, post vermilion, hanging considerable. Its taste is the most spicy, most people use it, it is very finely studied, and it is taken in the winter month to replace pepper. Harvest the seeds and plant them in the spring. "Chen Wei (1615-1703), a native of Hangzhou, belonged to the same region as the above books. Since the twenty-seventh year of the Kangxi Dynasty (1688), thirty or forty years have passed since the previous ones, and the relevant records deserve more expectations. It is indeed far more detailed, and the new name "chili" has emerged, which obviously refers to chili peppers. But the problems are just as obvious. The so-called "bushes", shaped like "bald pen heads", "hanging considerable", and spicy "dai pepper" are obviously following the words of the "Eight Notes of Zunsheng" and the "Complete Book of Wealth" of the Xianxueju Ben. The same also deleted the "Qin Pepper" alias, and specially appeared another alias "Sea Crazy Vine", and called "autumn deep knot", which is a more serious flaw. The so-called sea mad vine, also known as the sea wind vine, has been mentioned many times in the predecessor Materia Medica and medical books, and is now called a pepper family plant, a woody vine, and pepper is not the same thing. In the Ming Dynasty writings, there is a kind of sea mad vine data that can be referred to in the "Flower Mirror". Wang Lu's "Flower History Left Edition": "Ground coral: in the counties of Fengyang, its son is red and bright, and the Kexiao coral is like a pen tip hanging down." Not afraid of frost and snow, red after the first green. Seeds can be planted, also known as sea mad vine. The seeds are poisonous, very spicy, and not ingested. The author Wang Lu was a native of Gui Li (present-day Jiaxing, Zhejiang), and this account is also almost fully found in the "Eight Notes of Zunsheng", which is the same volume as "pepper" and belongs to the category of guanguo flowers. Although the name of What Chen Song said is very clear, it is obviously mixed with the relevant knowledge of this kind of ground coral (sea mad vine), and like the editors of the bookshop in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, it is still composed of woody pepper plants and the information of hearing peppers.

The above-mentioned books compiled by the shufang and literati in jiangsu and zhejiang in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, especially the Xianxueju ben "Zunsheng Eight Notes", are usually regarded as information or evidence of the leading spread of peppers in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, but most of these works are from the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, later than the "Qunfang Spectrum". In addition to the "Complete Book of Agricultural Politics" completely copied the "Qunfang Spectrum", the other changes are mostly mixed with peppercorns, pepper woody plants related knowledge and bonsai production experience. From the following discussion, it can be seen that the chili pepper records in the early Fangzhi Property Records of Zhejiang and Southern Jiangsu after entering the Qing Dynasty did not see the use of pepper and Qin pepper names, which has nothing to do with the content of these "peppers" in the book of the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties. Obviously, the "pepper" content of these books does not have much basis for local life in Suzhou and Hangzhou, and it should be that the literati in the workshop have copied and compiled the contents of the "Qunfang Spectrum" and changed it at will. Among them, there are more or less shadows of peppers, which are far from clear, and the overall view is close to pepper and pepper, and far from pepper, far less clear, pure, and accurate than Wang Xiangjin's "Qunfang Spectrum". Therefore, whether from the time of writing or the actual content, the "pepper" content of the "Qunfang Spectrum" is more primitive and more practical, which is the earliest and most reliable record of the time of pepper in China, and the people in Jiangsu and Zhejiang in the same period should know little or basically ignorant of pepper.

Qin pepper: The origin of chili peppers in Shandong and the spread of the north

After clarifying the literature and time of the earliest record of chili peppers, it is further necessary to trace and sort out the subsequent transmission process. Since the Qing Dynasty, China's Fangzhi pepper records are more common, the edible habits of peppers in various places are basically fixed, especially in the Daoguang years, Wu Qitao's "Botanical Names and Facts Tu kao" summarized the scene at that time, "Peppers are everywhere, Jiangxi, Hunan, Qian, Shu seeds are considered vegetables", but also marks the formation of the core situation of china's traditional pepper distribution and consumption. The author's investigation and discussion focused on the process of the initial transmission and continuous rise of Pepper in China during the Ming Wanli to The Light Years of the Qing Dynasty, which can be described as the early stage of the spread of Pepper in China. Based on the literature information from all aspects, the early spread of pepper in China is divided into three major sections or three major fauna, each section or fauna has a relatively independent source or starting point, and there is also a roughly unified name system and distribution characteristics. The three major sections started in succession, developed fast and slow, and there were also some handover influences and cross-penetrations between each other. Through this gradually unfolding spatio-temporal structure, we can effectively and concisely grasp the basic ways, development processes and distribution patterns of the origin and early spread of peppers in China, and deeply understand the historical origin of regional differences in pepper planting, production and consumption in China since the late Qing Dynasty.

First of all, the first section is discussed, that is, the origin and spread of chili peppers in the northern region of China. This fauna is roughly bounded to the south by the Huai River (at the eastern end of the Yangtze River) and the Qinling Mountains, which is what is commonly referred to as the northern region, including Shandong, Henan, and the core part of the present-day "Three Norths" region. China's peppers originated from the eastern coast of this line, and gradually spread to the north and west, showing a relatively continuous process and relatively unified characteristics.

(1) China's pepper originated in Shandong

The author believes that the "pepper" contained in Wang Xiangjin's "Qunfang Spectrum" is the earliest chili pepper information in China, and the Shandong Local Chronicle just has corresponding corroboration. Wang Xiangjin was a native of Xincheng, Shandong (present-day Huantai, Shandong), and the earliest record of chili peppers in China's Fang Zhi also appeared in Shandong, at the same time as the end of the Ming Dynasty. Hu Qiyin's "Research on the Introduction and Spread of Chili Peppers in China during the Ming and Qing Dynasties" is an excellent dissertation, with a section devoted to "The Introduction of Peppers in the Ming Dynasty", citing jiajing Hebei's "Nangong County Chronicle" "Spicy Horn", Fujian's "Qingliu County Chronicle" "Red Pepper", Chongzhen Shandong's "Licheng County Chronicle" "Qin Pepper" as the most likely chili pepper information of the Ming Dynasty Fang Zhi, and basically overturning the first two, believing that the Qin pepper mentioned in the "Licheng County Chronicle" "should be a pepper". The author deeply agrees with this, the Qin pepper contained in the "Records of Licheng County" in the thirteenth year of Chongzhen (1640) should be the alias of the pepper mentioned in the "Qunfang Spectrum", which is a local local custom, and the other two are clearly referred to differently, and can never be peppers. The zhi records "peppercorns" in medicines, and records "Qin peppers" in vegetables together with purslane and sweet potatoes, and is regarded as "wild vegetables". Later, the "(Qianlong) Licheng County Chronicle" wrote in the medicinal category "Qin pepper, raw Taishan River Valley, harvested in August and September", which is a peppercorn, and in the vegetable category, "Qin pepper" is recorded, which is moved to the household vegetable, and "knife beans, alfalfa, and sweet potato", is for chili peppers, the original purslane juxtaposed with "Qin pepper" is still retained in wild vegetables, reflecting the evolution of local peppers from wild to planted. Of course, from the "seed" of pepper mentioned in the "Qunfang Spectrum", it can be seen that the information Wang Xiangjin has mastered has been applied cultivation, and what he said should be the situation in his hometown of Xincheng. Licheng is near Jinan, the new city is closer to the sea, and the appearance of pepper (Qin pepper) is earlier. 23 And originally named after the pepper, it should be eaten immediately.

After entering the Qing Dynasty, the Kangxi Twelfth Year (1673) "Chronicle of Qihe County" (volume 3), Qianlong Yuannian (1736) "(Yongzheng) Shandong Tongzhi" (volume 24), Qianlong twenty-four years (1759) "(Qianlong) Qingcheng County Chronicle" (volume 1), "(Qianlong) Yizhou Fuzhi" (volume 11) successively recorded Qin pepper, and all of them are vegetable nature. The "(Yongzheng) Shandong Tongzhi" and "(Qianlong) Yizhou Fuzhi" further indicate that "Qin pepper, red in color, has a son, and the pepper flavor is spicy", which is undoubtedly a clear pepper. The Qi River is now part of Dezhou, adjacent to Jinan. Qingcheng is now merged into Gaoqing County, which is the northern neighbor of Wang Xiangjin's hometown of Xincheng. Yizhou is now the city of Linyi. All this shows that from the first year of the Apocalypse (1621) when Wang Xiangjin wrote the "Qunfang Spectrum" to the Qing Kangxi (1662-1722) and Qianlong (1736-1795), in the core area of present-day Shandong, mainly Huancheng and Jinan, the pepper commonly known as Qin pepper has gradually formed a distribution scale, 25 Shandong can be said to be the earliest documented in China, and there are signs of continuous development of pepper distribution area. It is precisely because of the mutual confirmation of the two aspects of the literati's works and Fang Zhi's records that the author confirms that Shandong is the historical starting point of China's peppers, and China's peppers originate in Shandong.

(2) Qin pepper is a common name for pepper in the northern region

Wang Xiangjin recorded "pepper, also known as Qin pepper", pepper should be a written name, reflecting the judgment of literati such as Wang Xiangjin on the nature of pepper as an exotic species, while Qin pepper should be a folk name in Shandong, which is the actual saying in people's daily lives at that time. This name is not only popular in Shandong, but also more common in North China, Northwest China and even Northeast China. This name, which was abandoned and not used by the Jiangsu and Zhejiang Fangshu in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, became almost a common name in the northern region during the Kangxi Period (1662-1722), and the earliest Fang Zhi records in various places basically used this name. Gao Shiqi of Zhejiang (1645-1703) was a favorite of Kangxi, who served in the capital for a long time, and retired to Hangzhou in his later years, and kangxi wrote "Beishu Holding Urn Record" in the twenty-ninth year (1690), recording peppers: "Qin pepper, the branches and leaves are green, one or two feet high, and white flowers." The knot is about two inches long, late autumn red, Lei Lei is gratifying, the taste is spicy, too ginger gui. "Instead of the Zhejiang people saying "spicy tomato" or Wang Xiangjin saying "pepper", but only "Qin pepper", it is the knowledge learned from long-term life in Beijing. In the forty-seventh year of the Kangxi Dynasty (1708), Wang Hao and others were instructed to compile the "Guangqun Fang Spectrum", and under the "Qin Pepper" article of the original "Qunfang Spectrum", it was noted in small characters: "With the name of the Qin Dynasty produced in Qindi, there is another kind of Qin pepper in the north today." The latter sentence of Wang Xiangjin's "Qunfang Spectrum" is originally absent, and it is xinjia, the editor of the "Guangqun Fang Spectrum", which refers to the situation in the north during the Kangxi period. The so-called other kind of Qin pepper refers to the pepper mentioned by Wang Xiangjin, which has become a common name in the northern region. Since then, Fang Zhi in the vast areas of the north has been used for a long time, and the sentence "Guangqun Fang Spectrum" has also been quoted by many later Generations when Fang Zhi recorded "Qin Pepper", and many Fang Zhi in later generations have taken Qin Pepper as another name or even a proper name.

The popular range of the name "Qin Pepper" is bounded by the Yangtze River and the Huai River in the east, jiangsu province spans the north and south of the Yangtze River, and the "(Yongzheng) Andong County Chronicle" (present-day Lianshui County, Jiangsu) and the "(Qianlong) Huai'an FuZhi" in the north of the river are called Qin pepper. Jiangnan (including present-day Shanghai) "(Jiaqing) Directly Subordinate to Taicang Prefecture Chronicle", "(Daoguang) Kunxin Two Counties Chronicle", "(Daoguang) Chuansha Fumin Hall Chronicle" called chili peppers and spicy tomatoes. In the west, it is bounded by the Qinling Mountains, and the southern slopes of the Qinling Mountains in the area of present-day Shaanxi are also named after him, while the vast area north of the Qinling Mountains is mostly called Qin Jiao. Therefore, it can be said that Qin pepper is a common name for peppers that have been popular for a long time mainly in the northern region.

(3) Qin pepper gradually spreads from Shandong to the north and west

Throughout the northern region, the names of peppers are largely the same, suggesting a close connection between cultivation and consumption. In fact, judging from the records of the local chronicles, it is true that the pepper called Qin pepper started from Shandong, and the pepper called Qin Pepper gradually spread from east to north and west in the vast area north of the Huai River and qinling mountains. Kangxi Eleventh Year (1672) Fucheng, Hebei ("Reconstruction of Fuzhi" Volume 1), Kangxi Sixteenth Year (1677) Liaoning Tieling ("Tieling County Chronicle" Volume 4), Kangxi Forty-three Years (1704) Tianjin Jixian ("Jizhou Zhi"), Kangxi Sixty-first Year (1722) Beijing Shunyi (Shunyi County Chronicle, Volume 2), Qianlong Second Year (1737) Gansu Jiuquan ("Reconstruction of Suzhou New Zhi" Property), Qianlong Decade (1745) Henan Luoyang (Luoyang County Chronicle Volume 1), In the fifteenth year of Jiaqing (1810), Heilongjiang (Heilongjiang Waiji, vol. 8) began with the name of Qin Pepper as Fangzhi Pepper of each province and region. Henan's Qin pepper information is still earlier, Kangxi Fifty-five Years (1716) Jing Rixun "Say Song": "Qin pepper, non-pepper also, the taste is extremely spicy, farmers eat more." "29 In the north, the time was only later than that of Shandong, Hebei (including present-day Beijing and Tianjin), and Liaoning. The situation in Shaanxi is more special, the earliest record is the Kangxi Thirty-third Year (1694) "Shanyang County Chuzhi" (vol. 3), because in the southern slope of the Qinling Mountains, called "pepper", and "(Yongzheng) Shaanxi Tongzhi" "commonly called pepper for Qin pepper" (volume 43), and Qianlong Eighteenth Year (1753) "Yichuan County Chronicle" said "Qin pepper, commonly known as spicy" (volume 3), reflecting the situation north of Qinling. In the nineteenth year of Qianlong (1754), the "Chronicle of Baishui County", also known as chili peppers, is a special case in the northern region.

From the perspective of time, Qin pepper has a clear trend of gradually spreading from east to north and west. Among them, Shanxi, which belongs to North China with Beijing, Tianjin and Hebei, appeared a little later, and the "Chronicle of Xiaoyi County" in the thirty-fifth year of Qianlong (1770) began to have the same kind of Qin pepper and pepper, saying that "Yiren Duoye Garden... Among the various dishes, cabbage, lobe, and especially many Qin peppers", it can be seen that the seeds have been passed down for many years and have become a grand trend. In the forty-ninth year of the Kangxi Dynasty (1710), the "spicy horn" recorded in the Baode County Chronicle in northwestern Shanxi may be chili peppers, a name used in a small number of places in Jin, Shaanxi, and Gansu. If this speculation is true, then the appearance of peppers in Shanxi is not too late, and the gradual spread from Shandong to northwest Shaanxi and Gansu is more natural and smooth.

(4) Luji Jingjin Liao is the earliest pepper spread and food-loving area in China

In the above-mentioned northern regions, the situation in Hebei (including present-day Beijing and Tianjin) and Liaoning is particularly worth mentioning. Fucheng, where Qin pepper (chili pepper) was first recorded in Hebei, is adjacent to Dezhou, Shandong, and only slightly later in time than in Shandong. After that, during the Kangxi Dynasty, Tianjin Jixian (Jizhou Zhi, vol. 3), Beijing Shunyi (Shunyi County Chronicle, vol. 2), Yongzheng (1723-1735), Hebei Baoding Shunping (Zhili Guanxian Zhi, vol. 4), Beijing (Yongzheng Qifu Tongzhi, vol. 56), Qianlongjian (1736-1795), Hebei Cangzhou Xianxian (Xianxian Zhi), Cangzhou City (Cangzhou Zhi, vol. 4), Hengshui Raoyang (Raoyang County Chronicle, vol. 4), Tangshan Fengrun (Fengrun County Chronicle, vol. 4), Baoding Anguo (Cangzhou Zhi) Qizhou Chronicle, vol. 7), Shijiazhuang City (Zhengding Fuzhi, vol. 12), Cangzhou Renqiu (Renqiu County Chronicle, vol. 3), Shijiazhuang Xinji (Shulu County Chronicle, vol. 10), Xingtai Longyao (Longping County Chronicle, vol. 3), Handan Jize (Jize County Chronicle, vol. 8), Shijiazhuang Gaoyi (New Gaoyi County Chronicle, vol. 1), Langfang Yongqing (Yongqing County Chronicle) and other places have successively recorded Qin pepper, covering the entire south-central hebei and the area belonging to Beijing and Tianjin.

In Liaoning, Jiang Mudong and Wang Siming had noticed that Fang Zhi's records were "early and numerous", and considered the Liaoren Lin Benyu's "Liao Zai Qianji" of the 29th year of the Kangxi Dynasty (1690) to be the earliest:

Qin pepper A pepper, shaped like horse milk, color like coral, non-herbal Qindi peppercorns, that is, Middle-earth spicy eggplant.

In fact, there are even earlier, Kangxi Sixteenth Year (1677) Tieling ("Tieling County Chronicle" volume down), Kangxi Twenty-first Year (1682) Yingkou Gaizhou ("Gaiping County Chronicle" volume down), Kangxi Twenty-three Years (1684) Liaoning Tongzhi ("Shengjing Tongzhi" volume 21) all record Qin pepper in vegetables, "(Kangxi) Shengjing Tongzhi" clearly states that "native products are only this kind". 35 Later, after the "(Xianfeng) Shengjing Tongzhi" explained that the peppercorns are "cold in this place, and there are fewer planters", there is a detailed description of Qin peppers: "Qin peppers, knotted peppers are longer than dates, and sharp, raw green and ripe red, the taste is extremely spicy, and the natives eat it a lot." "36 The Qin pepper mentioned in Liaodi refers to chili pepper in the same way as in Shandong, Hebei, and Beijing-Tianjin regions. The "Liao Zai QianJi" and Gao Shiqi's "Beishu Bao Urn Record" in the same period are more clear and specific records about Qin pepper after the "Qunfang Spectrum", note that the relationship between the two names of pepper and Qin pepper mentioned in the "Liao Zai Qianji" is exactly the opposite of Wang Xiangjin, and Gao Shiqi only calls Qin pepper and does not have an alias, which further indicates that the name of Qin pepper is prevalent in the northern region.

Local history information fully shows that from Shandong to Hebei, Beijing-Tianjin and then to Liaoning Bohai Rim region, with the North China Plain as the core, Shandong and Liaoning as the two wings, in the Kangqian period has formed a dense distribution area of peppers, recorded early, distribution density. Other aspects of the information are also corroborated, the early Qing Dynasty Guangdong Qu Dajun's "Closed Urn Dish" poem: "The northern people are heavy in winter, and the vegetables are more purposeful... Northern people like spicy, Ginger Gui Japanese meal clothes. Animals are fried with a coconut, and the fish is more solid. You are cold, and your mouth and body are not separated. "This is the early Kangxi period, which means that the northerners usually like to eat spicy things, and the winter is relatively cold, so it is especially important to prepare pickles and the like, and the traditional spicy seasonings such as ginger, gui, zhuyi, and spicy tateshina are used. And Suzhou Guo Lu's "Summer Record of The Garden sale":

Chili pepper, wu people call it spicy tiger, also known as spicy tomato, also used as a sauce, only eat a little ear. And the northerners pile up raw food, dipped in salt, can be as many as possible, believe in the taste of different tastes!

This is the last year of Qianlong (1736-1795), Guo lived in Yangzhou, Jiangsu, said that the northerners should mainly refer to the Northern End of the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal in Shandong, Hebei, Beijing-Tianjin region, of course, can also include Liaoning, Shanxi, Inner Mongolia and other places, and the spicy product has been heavy pepper. As we all know, since Jiaqing and Daoguang, the Xiangganchuan Qianmin customs are spicy, but in the early Qing Dynasty, at least in the Kangqian period, this wind was dominated by the northern region centered on the North China Plain. The local chronicles of Beijing, Tianjin, Hebei, Lu, and Liao recorded many chili peppers here, which is a reflection of this custom. Since then, the central and western regions and northeast regions such as Jin, Shaanxi, Gansu, Kyrgyzstan and Hei have gradually been infected, and the records and preferences for peppers are slightly better than those in East China provinces such as Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Fujian.

Pepper, chili, caraway: the sparse distribution of peppers in East China

The East China region mentioned here excludes Shandong, which belongs to the north, and only jiangsu, Zhejiang, Fujian, Taiwan and the inland Anhui and Jiangxi. This is a relatively sparse and scattered area that appeared earlier after Shandong, and has a roughly unified regional characteristic.

(1) Jiangsu and Zhejiang Fangzhi records are early and few

In this region, the chili pepper information of Fangzhi in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces appeared earlier. In the same year as Chongzhen's thirteenth year (1640) Shandong's "Chronicle of Licheng County", the "Native Products" of the "(Chongzhen) Jiangyin County Chronicle" on the Yangtze River in Jiangsu Province also recorded peppercorns: "Grass has a book with plantains, chicken crown tiger ears, coleslaw peppercorns, and also flowers in between." "The said pepper is clearly classified as a grass, which is different from the woody book in the "Grass and Flower Spectrum" and "Book of Wealth" in the Suzhou and Hangzhou areas in the same period. Unfortunately, there is no corresponding information in the subsequent Records of Jiangyin County and the neighboring Fang Zhi, and it is impossible to determine whether they are the same as those contained in the Qunfang Genealogy.

The chili peppers in this region and even the entire southern region originated in Zhejiang, and Fang Zhi's clear and reliable records were first found in the Kangxi Decade (1671) Zhejiang Eastern Shaoxing": "Spicy tomato: red, shaped like a ling, can be substituted for pepper." This name and corresponding description are obviously different from the "peppers" mentioned in the "Qunfang Spectrum", and are completely isolated from the corresponding contents of the aforementioned book-making works in Jiangsu and Zhejiang in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. Spicy eggplant is the more common name of Wuyue since the Kangxi Dynasty, that is, from present-day southern Jiangsu to eastern Zhejiang, and later Fang Zhi in these places also used this title, which gradually became recognized by foreign people. Not only spicy tomatoes, Kangxi Twenty-sixth Year (1687) "Renhe County Chronicle" for the first time called chili pepper, this name or both Zhejiang eastern spicy eggplant and northern Qin pepper. Two relatively scientific pepper names that later became common names first appeared on the north and south banks of the Qiantang River estuary, which is a phenomenon worthy of attention. It is possible that the peppers here were originally not related to the so-called Qin peppers and peppers in Shandong, and they were relatively independent sources with different overseas sources.

Jiangsu (including Shanghai) is between Zhejiang and Shandong, spanning the north and south of the Yangtze River, and the spread of pepper is obviously affected by the different effects of the north and south roads. The earliest reliable records are the Yongzheng Fifth Year (1727) Andong County Chronicle (volume 6, present-day Lianshui, Jiangsu), followed by the Qianlong Thirteenth Year Huai'an FuZhi (volume 24), both in Jiangbei and along the Grand Canal, containing the name "Qin pepper", which obviously should have come from Shandong. The Jiangnan region of Jiangsu is recorded much later than Jiangbei and later than Zhejiang. Successively, there are "(Jiaqing) Directly Subordinate Taicang Prefecture Chronicle" (volume 17), "(Daoguang) Kunxin Two Counties Chronicle" (volume 8), "(Daoguang) Chuansha Fumin Hall Chronicle" (volume 11), using the name of spicy tomato or pepper, which is exactly the same as Shaoxing and Hangzhou, and the pepper here should come from Zhejiang.

Although the records of the two provinces, especially Zhejiang Fangzhi, appear earlier, people's actual understanding is very limited. Kangxi Twenty-five Years (1686) "Hangzhou Fuzhi" records that still call spicy tomatoes "pots of play" and "inedible",44 mainly used for ornamentation, while Hangzhou Chen Chen's "Flower Mirror" related statements are even more ambiguous, can not help but say that in addition to Gao Shiqi's long-term northerners, Wuyue people do not know much about peppers, and the application of life is even more rare. Many scholars have noticed that the number of chili peppers recorded in Fangzhi in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces is small, although Fangzhi cannot be recognized as undeniable, but it also roughly indicates that the cultivation and consumption in this area is relatively weak.

(2) Panjiang: the special situation of Taiwan and Fujian

The information on peppers in Fujian and Taiwan is closely linked, and it is necessary to combine the introduction. As far as Fang Zhi records are concerned, Taiwan is still a little earlier. In the twelfth year of Qianlong (1747), the "Reconstruction of the Chronicle of Taiwan" quotes the Qing Dynasty Sixty-Seven "Taiwan Style Tukao":

Ginger, woody, grown from the Netherlands. The flowers are white petals, green and pointed, and when ripe, vermilion is dazzling, and the seeds are spicy. Fanren with shells. Famous peppers in the mainland. There is also a strong round and slightly pointed, resembling a chestnut seed, out of the bite (citation press: Jakarta, Indonesia), which is not available in the mainland.

In the ninth year (1744) of the Qing Dynasty, Qianlong entered Taiwan to collect customs and customs, and in the tenth year of Qianlong, he wrote "Taiwan Collecting Styles and Drawings". Later, the Taiwan local chronicle records that Chili peppers copied this passage. It is worth noting that calling chili peppers ginger, peppers, ginger sounds close, may also be more flavored than ginger and attached to the name, or out of the local vernacular pronunciation. Called woody, it should be a woody variety that has been grown for many years in a hot climate and showed a tendency to lignification, and it is also possible that it is said that the woody species transmitted outside the territory. This record is the most specific and clear information about the source of peppers in ancient Chinese literature, which can be seen that it is completely different from the varieties seen in the mainland, and has the particularity of varieties and growth status in Taiwan.

The earliest record of Fujian is found in the 22nd year of Qianlong (1757) "Anxi County Chronicle" medicine category: "Pepper, a ginger, a Qin pepper." The flowers are fine white, real old red, spicy taste, can detoxify aquarium poison. If there are too many fish and crabs, or diarrhea or fullness, use the sub-decoction to serve. "Anxi now belongs to Quanzhou, not far from the sea, and is obviously mainly used for medicinal purposes. The name of the record is also very representative, pepper and Qin pepper from the "Qunfang Spectrum", by the Qianlong period has become a general knowledge, and the name of the ginger is obviously from Taiwan, indicating that the origin of peppers here may be diverse, both from Taiwan and may also be in the mainland. Since then, during the Qianlong period, Quanzhou's "Quanzhou Fuzhi" (volume 19), "Jinjiang County Chronicle" (volume 1), and "Maxiang Hall Chronicle" (volume 12) near Xiamen have similar records, and their uses are also in the treatment of fish-eating poison. In other regions, such as the Records of (Qianlong) Jianning County (vol. 6) and the Continuation Chronicle of Yong'an County (vol. 9), it is recorded that the correct name is Qin Jiaowai, commonly known as eggplant pepper, pepper nose and the like, both counties are in the central and western parts of present-day Sanming City in the inland of Fujian, which are obviously different from the coastal areas and may be somewhat affected by the adjacent inland areas.

(3) Scattered records of Anhui and Jiangxi

Anhui and Jiangxi are not coastal in East China, Anhui spans the north and south of the Yangtze River, Jiangxi is more inland in Jiangnan, and the time of chili pepper recording is significantly later than that of the coast, the number is smaller and more scattered. The names used are both pepper, chili pepper, and eggplant, with signs that chili peppers have spread widely. The earliest record of Anhui, known as spicy eggplant, is found in the Yingzhou Fuzhi of the seventeenth year of Qianlong (1752) and later in the Fuyang Chronicle of (Qianlong) Fuyang County (vol. 5), both in present-day Fuyang, Huaibei. Jiangnan present-day Wuhu belongs to nanling ((Jiaqing) Nanling County Chronicle volume 5) and Fanchang ((Daoguang) Fanchang County Chronicle volume 6) after the time, has been called pepper, Anhui pepper should be mainly from Jiangsu and Zhejiang. Jiangxi Xizhi records begin in the Sixteenth Year of Qianlong (1751) in the "Huichang County Chronicle":

There are two kinds of pepper (there are two kinds, when tender, the color is turquoise, and the old is vermilion, shaped like a pig's tooth. Slightly round and pointed mouth is called chicken heart pepper, spicy can be pitted), peppercorns, zhuan.

Although the time is not early, but the varieties are specific and diverse, the source is either Fujian or Cantonese, it is worth noting, there are some signs of the later Gannan spicy atmosphere. Subsequently, the Twenty-fourth Year of Qianlong (1759) "Jianchang Fu Zhi" (volume 9), Qianlong Twenty-five years "Yuan Zhou Fu Zhi" (volume 7), Daoguang Three Years (1823) "Xinfeng County Chronicle Continuation" (volume 4), Daoguang Five Years "Yihuang County Chronicle" (volume 12), "Fengcheng County Chronicle" (volume 1) and so on are also recorded.

Looking at the above-mentioned eastern regions, including Taiwan, since most of them are located on the coast, peppers are not late to start. The name began with spicy tomato, followed by pepper, and the inland records also used a generic name such as pepper, and there were also records of "pan ginger" from outside the territory, and there were some records of different varieties since Qianlong, indicating that the source should be different from Shandong, and there are more possibilities of direct transmission by the southeast sea. Fang Zhi's records are relatively scattered, indicating that the cultivation and consumption of chili peppers in this line is relatively weak compared with Shandong and North China.

(4) A small number of areas in Jiangxi are prone to spicy tendencies

The situation in Jiangxi is somewhat special, although Fang Zhi has few records, but the Poyang zhang mu's "Debate on Adjusting Diseases and Diets" has this comment on chili peppers:

Spicy pieces: In recent decades, the group of addicts, the name of spicy pieces, also known as peppers, also known as cabbage and the like. The leaves are thin and thin, the branches are more than a foot high, and the small white flowers bloom in April and May. The knots are continuous before and after, and the first green is red. The taste is spicy as fire, and the food makes people's lips and tongue swollen. And the addicts, or salted, or raw food, or mixed with salt soy sauce fried food, many intermittent. The last to be born in autumn. The color is not red, the sun is dried and milled, and it is like a sauce. Its shape is different, there are those who are large and small, there are those who are small and large; there are those who are as big as thumbs, and one or two inches long; there are those who are as small as a head, and those who are only one or two short; there are those who have four edges like solid shapes, and there are circles such as red enamels and fire beads. In the pot of plants, for the play of Koya, the present eater is 78 out of 10, and hemorrhoids, blood in the stool, vomiting blood, and children's acne are also 78 out of 10 (parents are spicy food, and their sperm and blood will be hot, so they are left to their children).

The author's life is unknown, this book is prefaced in the eighteenth year of Jiaqing (1813), written in his later years, belongs to the food materia medica work, classified and compiled food taste, function, should be avoided, there are names and facts to distinguish, more practical. This is the most specific and detailed chili pepper information before Wu Qitao's "Botanical Names and Facts" in the Daoguang years (1821-1850). The area referred to is unknown, the name of the said "spicy piece" is not seen elsewhere and in the western part of the river, and the said scene of food addiction should be mainly based on its hometown, that is, the area around present-day Poyang, Jiangxi. It is said that the local love of peppers has been decades, it is the situation since the middle of Qianlong (1736-1795), it can be seen that at least a few areas in Jiangxi planting, eating peppers has been very prosperous, and the various varieties mentioned echo the variety information of the former Gannan "(Qianlong) Huichang County Chronicle", which shows that the varieties of Jiangxi peppers are relatively rich, and should be planted to flourish. Wu Qitao's "Botanical Names and Facts" said that "Jiangxi, Hunan, Qian, and Shu seeds think that vegetables", Jiangxi ranks first, and there are very few records of Jiangxi Xizhi in the same period, and what Zhang Shi said can be confirmed. Later generations will return Jiangxi to Hunan, Guizhou, Chongqing, and Sichuan to China's spicy-loving areas, and at the latest, some areas should have begun in the middle of Qianlong, which needs to be specifically specified.

From "Botanical Names and Real Tu Kao"

Pepper, sea pepper, spicy seed: the special origin and hot sauce of chili pepper in central and southwest china

The two major regions mentioned here should exclude Henan Province in the Central Plains, and the situation in Henan belongs to the spread process of the entire northern region, and the remaining ones are Guangdong and Guangxi in southern China, Hunan and Hubei in central China, and Guizhou, Yunnan, Chongqing and Sichuan provinces in the southwest. This is the third section or fauna with a relatively close communication relationship, the time is immediately after East China, covering a large area, with Hunan, Guizhou, Sichuan, Chongqing as the center, both north and south sources, deep social assistance, pepper can be widely spread, constitute a grand landscape of China's pepper spread history.

(1) Guangdong peppers originate from the coast of the South China Sea

Among the above three districts, the situation in Guangdong needs to be mentioned first. The guangdong Fangzhi record of chili peppers begins in the twenty-sixth year of the Kangxi Dynasty (1687) Yangjiang, (Kangxi) Yangchun County Chronicle: "Pepper, the branches are weak, the height can be one or two feet, the knot horns are dark red, and there are seeds, such as Ma Da, whose horns are the most spicy." "The time is later than Zhejiang, but the record is very clear, clarifying the basic traits of pepper growth, which should obviously be planted for a day or from an area with clear relevant knowledge." After that, during the Qianlong period, Meizhou Fengshun (Fengshun County Chronicle, vol. 7), Jiangmen Enping (Enping County Chronicle, vol. 9), Huizhou Huiyang (Guishan County Chronicle, vol. 16, Guishan County is now part of Huizhou Huiyang, Huicheng, and other places), and Jiangmen Kaiping (Kaiping County Chronicle, vol. 4) during the Daoguang period successively recorded chili peppers. There are two points worth noting: first, the names of the places or peppers or peppers, peppers, but also occasionally alias Qin pepper, is relatively close to the eastern coastal Zhejiang and Fujian, where peppers are recorded earlier in the south; second, almost all the places mentioned in the south are in the coast, the farthest from the sea is like Fengshun, and it is only from Shantou and Jieyang to the Rong River, while in the same period, there is no record of inland Guangdong and northern Guangdong. Therefore, the author believes that Guangdong's peppers should come from the sea, mainly from Zhejiang and Fujian through the sea, of course, can not rule out the possibility of direct import from overseas, and Qianlong (1736-1795) since this possibility is even greater.

(2) Hunan pepper has a special name and is ahead of its time, and should initially come from the coast of Guangdong

Hunan is inland, and Fang Zhi's record of the early secret of chili peppers is amazing. In the twenty-third year of the Kangxi Dynasty (1684), the "Baoqing FuZhi" and "Shaoyang County Chronicle" under the jurisdiction of present-day Shaoyang City simultaneously recorded "sea pepper" in the "genus of vegetables" (see volumes 13 and 6 respectively), according to the corresponding instructions of the later Fang Zhi, the so-called sea pepper is a pepper, which is slightly earlier than Guangdong. Earlier in the second year of the Kangxi Dynasty (1663), the "Wugang Prefecture Chronicle" of Baoqing Province listed "luo grapes, cabbage, eggplant, and pepper" in the "genus of vegetables", and it is unknown whether the single word "pepper" here is related to the later sea pepper, that is, chili pepper.

Since Qianlong, on the front line of western Hunan Province, there have been Luxi (Luxi County Chronicle, volume 7), Huayuan of Xiangxi Tujia Autonomous Prefecture (Duan Rulin's Chunan Miaozhi, volume 1, which is concerned with the entire Xiangxi Miao Township), Huaihua Pupu ("Records of Pupu County" volume 7), Qingchen Prefecture Capital in the north of Huaihua City (the seat of government is located in present-day Huaihua Yuanling, Chenzhou Fuzhi, volume 15), Huaihua City Passage ("Channel County Chronicle" Customs and Soil History), Zhangjiajie Cili ("Reconstruction of Cili County Chronicle" volume 2), The Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture Longshan (Longshan County Chronicle, vol. 8), Zhangjiajie City (Yongding County Chronicle, Property History), Huaihua Chenxi (Chenxi County Chronicle, vol. 37), Shaoyang Xinning ("Re-compilation of Xinning County Chronicle" volume 30), and The Phoenix of the Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture (Phoenix Hall Chronicle, vol. 18) have successively recorded chili peppers. It is all in the xiangxi mountains and the hilly mountains of the upper valleys of Yuanshui and Zishui. The names spoken are mainly sea peppers, but there are also a small number of peppers and qin peppers. The geographical relationship is very close, the distribution is relatively dense, and it seems to form a distinct distribution area for pepper cultivation and consumption.

At the same time, the main sea pepper is also called the Yongzhou area. Daoguang Viii (1828) "Yongzhou Fu Zhi" quoted the anonymity "Xiangqiao Smell and See Even":

The people of the southwest are cold and pepper-loving, but in the past, there were only Qin and Shu pepper ears, and in the near future, peppers were popular, and Yongzhou called sea peppers. Its leaves are bamboo-like and prickly, its flowers are white, in fact, the horns, the round ones are fruity, and the elders are like small pods. The first deep blue, gradually old color red. The sub is in the corner, and the color is white. The natives take the green skin raw, and the taste is spicy and peppery, also known as spicy. Sexual dispersion of pneumatic fire, people with its refreshing, more partial, often damaged. Yongzhou as a vegetable, will be drowned with this, usually as a drink, all do not use. Therefore, his people have many eyes and blood diseases. ...... The entry of the pepper into China is not long also, from the southwest to the northeast, the habit of dyeing, and the tambar (citation press: tobacco), etc., is also a demon with!

About the twenty-third year of Jiaqing (1818), the author lived in Yongzhou and wrote this account, and the scene described is similar to what Jiangxi Zhangmu said. The so-called chili pepper from the southwest to the northeast should have this impression that the pepper consumption in xiangxi, Guizhou and even Yunnan, Guangxi and other places was flourishing at that time. It is mentioned that Yongzhou is locally called peppercorn sea pepper, which is the same as Xiangxi, and Yongzhou is closer to Guangdong than Shaoyang and Huaihua.

In the eastern part of Hunan, during the Qianlong period, Yongzhou Qiyang ("Qiyang County Chronicle" volume 4), Chenzhou Zixing ("Xingning County Chronicle" volume 4), Yueyang Xiangyin ("Xiangyin County Chronicle" volume 11), Jiaqing period Changsha ("Changsha County Chronicle" terroir) and so on all recorded peppers, but the name is obviously different from Xiangxi, the southern part is mostly used in Guangdong first-line pepper, the northern Changsha, Xiangyin and other places should be influenced by the north to be called Qin pepper.

There is undoubtedly a question that is of great concern, that is, the inland mountainous areas of Shaoyang in Western Hunan province, Huaihua to Zhangjiajie, called sea pepper, "commonly known as spicy", appeared earlier than the surrounding areas, where did the peppers here come from? The existing discussion is divided into two factions: one faction believes that the Zhejiang people first recorded chili peppers, believing that the peppers in Hunan should be transmitted from zhejiang along the Yangtze River to the west, through Dongting and Yuanxiangnan; the other faction believes that the nearest chili peppers came from Guangdong. The author believes that western Hunan is far from Zhejiang. Judging from the Records of Fang Zhi, the records of peppers in Anhui, Jiangxi and Hubei along the river between Huxiang and Jiangsu and Zhejiang are late, far later than In Hunan, and the distribution is relatively scattered and sparse. Even within Hunan, Fang Zhi records that the east is later and less than the west, and the north is later than the south, and the hunan peppers are unlikely to have first entered the west and then south through the Yangtze River waterway to xiangxi.

The claim from Guangdong, although the relevant argument is relatively rough, is more likely. Here are mainly considered the following factors: First, Hunan borders liangguang, Hunan peppers first south and then north, the source should be in the south, and the distance from Guangdong is relatively close. Second, Xiangxi and Shonan originally called chili peppers sea peppers, and the earliest records of Guangdong chili peppers, although two or three years later, happened to be highly concentrated along the coast. In the case of roughly simultaneous occurrence of the two records, this scenario is reminiscent, and there may be occasional population movements such as merchant activities, literati eunuchs, etc. from the coast of Guangdong to Hunan. Third, some scholars have noticed that Qu Dajun's "Guangdong New Language" in the early Qing Dynasty recorded: "The people of Wangxian County, Guangzhou, have many affairs, and follow the times, and use the goods of gum, fruit boxes, ironware, rattan wax, pepper, sumu, and pukui to go north to Yuzhang, Wu, and Zhejiang, and northwest to Changsha and Hankou." "It means that some populated counties near Guangzhou sell peppers to Jiangxi and the two lakes." Whether the pepper refers to pepper is quite difficult to think about, "Guangdong New Language" monogatari has a special "pepper" industry, mainly talking about pepper, pepper and the like, and does not mention "pepper", Qu's other works do not appear again The concept of pepper, the pepper should refer to pepper, at least it is difficult to determine that it must refer to pepper. However, the Guangdong Xinyu was published in the twenty-sixth year of the Kangxi Dynasty (1687), and it was also the year that the Guangdong Fangzhi began to record the pepper, and Qu Dajun's writings were not scrupulous, and it is possible that at least the chili pepper was included. Since it has been trafficked over a long distance, it also has a certain history and scale of cultivation, and it is more natural to spread to Hunan near the north. Fourth, hubei '(Qianlong) Guizhou Zhi( Zhishou is stationed in present-day Zigui) in the local vegetable genus record "Guangjiao", which refers to chili peppers. The (Daoguang) Hefeng Zhou Zhi (now part of Enshi, Hubei) clearly records: "Pepper, commonly known as sea pepper, one call pepper, one call guang pepper." "These records are clearly classified as vegetables, and are one with sea pepper and pepper, which refers to peppers. Hefeng, Guizhou and northwestern Hunan belong to the Wuling Mountains, and the folk customs are common, especially Hefeng is close to Zhangjiajie and Xiangxi Tujia Miao Autonomous Prefecture, and the sea pepper and Guang pepper are the common names of peppers, which should reflect the actual source of the local so-called sea peppers. Fifth, the earliest recorded "(Kangxi) Yangchun County Chronicle" in Guangdong called the pepper "knot horn", and the "(Qianlong) Chenzhou Fuzhi" that earliest described the shape of the pepper in Hunan said that it was "like a crescent moon", and the shape of the fruit roughly corresponded. It is based on these considerations that the author believes that the original peppers in Shaoyang and Huaihua in western Hunan should come from the coast of Guangdong, so they are mostly called sea peppers. It is also based on this judgment that the author takes Guangdong as the starting point and includes Guangxi in the southwest communication region with Hunan, Guizhou, Chongqing and Sichuan as the core.

(3) Follow-up and dissemination in Guizhou, Yunnan, and Guangxi

With southwestern Hunan as the center, peppers first spread to Guizhou, Guangxi, and Yunnan in the south. The earliest record of the Fangzhi of Guizhou should be the "Chronicle of Yuqing County" in the fifty-sixth year of the Kangxi Dynasty (1717):

Sea pepper, commonly known as spicy fire, earth seedlings are used instead of salt.

The Sixty-first Year of the Kangxi Dynasty (1722) "Sizhou FuZhi" also has a corresponding record. In the sixth year of Qianlong (1741), the "Guizhou Tongzhi" completely copied the contents of the "Yuqing County Chronicle". Yuqing County is in the southeast of present-day Zunyi City, adjacent to Tongren City. The seat of Sizhou was located in present-day Sinan County, Tongren City, not too far from Huaihua, Hunan, and the peppers here should be imported from western Hunan like the source of pumpkins in this area. The name of pepper in Guizhou, in addition to sea pepper, also uses common names such as spicy seeds, spicy horns, and spicy fire, which are more consistent with Xiangxi, and the relationship between the two places is very deep.

Guangxi, like Xiangxi and Guizhou, is inhabited by ethnic minorities, and the earliest record of chili peppers can be found in the Qianlong First Year (1736) "(Yongzheng) Guangxi Tongzhi": "Xinglong Toast Is Mixed with Seedlings, Hoeing and Planting Millet." In the first month of each year, men and women gather in the market, sing and celebrate, and each gives a betel nut gift. Pray for the disease, and do not hesitate to give birth. For every rotten meal, peppers are used as salt. "Xinglong Toast is also recorded in the area of Mashan County, which belongs to present-day Nanning City, Qingyuan Province (Qingyuan Fu Zhi, vol. 3, present-day Hechi City, Guangxi), Liuzhou Fu (Liuzhou Fu Zhi, vol. 12), and Wuzhou Prefecture (Maping County Chronicle, vol. 2, Wuzhou Fu Zhi). Unlike the situation in Guangdong, the records of peppers in guangxi did not begin in the coast or the south, nor did they first the areas adjacent to Guangdong, but were relatively concentrated in the north, closer to Guizhou, so the spread of peppers was more likely to come from Hunan and Guizhou in the north, rather than from the southeast coast. The records of Guangxi Fangzhi are mostly called chili peppers, which are also closer to the spicy seeds and spicy horns mentioned in Xiangxi and Guizhou.

The record of peppers in Yunnan is first found in the Qianlong First Year (1736) "(Yongzheng) Yunnan Tongzhi": "Qin pepper, commonly known as spicy. At the same time, Guangxi Tongzhi does not have similar content, which shows that the peppers in Yunnan should not be later than guangxi. During the Qianlong period, kunming (Guangxi Fuzhi, vol. 20, the seat of government was stationed in present-day Luxi, Yunnan), Chuxiong (Baiyanjingzhi, vol. 3), Zhaotong (Zhenxiongzhou Zhi, vol. 5), Baoshan (Yongchang Fuzhi, vol. 23), and Simao (Jingdong Zhili Hall Zhi, vol. 4), most of the locations are concentrated in the central and northern regions. It is worth noting that most of the names recorded in the Yunnan Chronicle follow the Tongzhi saying, adopting the "dual-track system", Qin pepper is a popular common name in the north, which has become a ya name here, which should be related to the fact that the original Tongzhi Xiuzhi officials were mostly from the north, and spicy is a common name, which should come from neighboring Guizhou and other places.

The spread of peppers in Guizhou, Yunnan and Guangxi is unified in the divergence area centered on western Hunan Province, especially in Guizhou, which is closely followed by western Hunan province, with more distribution and strong momentum, and the adjacent guangxi and Yunnan in the east and west form a contiguous area for the introduction and consumption of peppers. In addition to the close geographical relationship, many scholars have noticed two social factors: First, the serious lack of salt resources in Guizhou and other places, coupled with the difficulty of transportation in the plateau mountainous areas, the high price of salt, and the need to seek relatively cheap and convenient alternatives. In the twenty-ninth year of the Kangxi Dynasty (1690), Tian Wen's "Book of Qian" mentioned that Qiandi "should be poor and replaced by dog pepper, pepper is spicy, and xin is substituted for salty". Dog pepper is not pepper, is a wild pepper plant, folk nearby materials, early use, and pepper spicy far more than dog pepper, more adapted to people's needs, so once it appears, it is widely popular, quickly spread. Especially for the people at the bottom, due to poverty, especially lack of salt, growing edible peppers has become the best choice. In Guangxi and other places where there is not much lack of salt, peppers have the effect of "eliminating water vapor and detoxification", which is also particularly popular. Second, the prominent role of ethnic minorities such as Miao and Yao. The (Kangxi) Yuqing County Chronicle, the (Yongzheng) Guangxi Tongzhi, and the (Qianlong) Guizhou Tongzhi all mention that the Miao people used chili peppers instead of salt. The Xiangxi Mountains are originally inhabited by ethnic minorities such as the Miao, and are also densely distributed in the territory of peppers, and the basic superposition of the two reflects the common hobbies of ethnic minorities in the consumption of peppers. The close connection between the internal living habits of ethnic minorities such as Miao and Yao and the migration and development in the mountainous areas of southwest China have effectively promoted the spread of peppers in Guizhou, Guangxi and Yunnan. It is precisely because of the interaction of these geographical conditions, environmental resources, ethnic distribution and other social and natural conditions that the rapid spread of peppers from western Hunan to Guizhou, Guangxi and Yunnan has been promoted, and the rapid formation and continuous development of pepper feeding habits centered on western Hunan and Guizhou since Qianlong.

(4) Qin pepper and sea pepper: the intersection and ultimate confluence of the north and south roads in Hubei, Chongqing and Sichuan

Hubei, Chongqing, Sichuan three provinces and regions in the central region of China, far from the coastal source, but also across the Yangtze River north and south, in the process of pepper from east to west, there are signs of the intersection of the north and south of the two roads. However, due to the greater influence of Hunan, Guizhou and other places as a whole, the eventual formation of spicy atmosphere is also completely connected with the core areas of Hunan and Guizhou, so it is merged with it into a unified region.

Hubei Province's mountains and rivers are intricate and fragmented, and the western part is a continuous mountain on both sides of the Yangtze River and han river, with rich vegetation, which is a relatively rich area of traditional pepper resources in China. Hubei pepper records appear later, and the relevant information is more scattered and vague. The Chronicle of Changyang County in the nineteenth year of Qianlong (1754) is the earliest record: "Mountain pepper and spicy seeds (there are two kinds). "Changyang now belongs to yichang city, and on the south bank of the Yangtze River, the so-called spicy seeds should be closely related to Xiangxi regardless of their name or origin. Later, the "(Qianlong) Guizhou Chronicle" called Guangjiao, the "(Jiaqing) Yunyang Zhi" called Qin Pepper, and the "(Daoguang) Hefeng ZhouZhi" recorded together: "Pepper, commonly known as Sea Pepper, one call pepper, one call Guang Pepper." "The source obviously has two roads, north and south, saying that Qin pepper now belongs to Yunyang in Shiyan City originates from the northern system, and sea pepper, spicy seed, and Guang pepper are obviously derived from the south, with the colors of the north and south roads sandwiched and intersecting, and the south is the mainstay."

Sichuan and Chongqing were soon separated, both geographically and politically traditionally as a whole, and Fang Zhi recorded it earlier than Hubei. Chongqing was first seen in the Bishan County Chronicle of the second year of Qianlong (1737), which records Qin pepper in vegetables. Bishan is close to Chongqing, Bashu multi-Sichuan pepper, said Qin pepper should refer to pepper. Sichuan was first seen in the 14th year of Qianlong (1749) in the "Chronicle of Dayi County": "Qin pepper, also known as sea pepper." "The Qin pepper and sea pepper recorded in the Two Records, from the name, have a certain representative and symbolic character in the entire Sichuan Basin. In the early Qianlong period, Pengshan (Pengshan County Chronicle, vol. 1), Danling (Danling County Chronicle, volume 5), Qingshen (Qingshen County Chronicle, volume 5), and Yibin City (Volume 4 of the Chronicle of Pengshan County) successively recorded Qin Pepper. During the Jiaqing period, Jintang (Jintang County Chronicle, volume 3), Guanghan, Deyang City (Hanzhou Chronicle, volume 39), Meishan City Hongya (Hongya County Chronicle, volume 4), Chengdu (Chengdu County Chronicle, volume 6), Daoguang Years Ziyang Anyue (Anyue County Chronicle, volume 15), Chongqing Shizhu Tujia Autonomous Prefecture (Supplementary Shizhu Hall New Chronicle, volume 9), Chengdu Xindu (Xindu County Chronicle, volume 3), and Chongqing Chengkou (Chengkou Hall Chronicle, volume 18) successively recorded haijiao.

In terms of time, the record of Qin pepper is early, and the record of sea pepper is later. Geographically, the records of Qin pepper are mainly concentrated in the first line of present-day Chengdu and Meishan City, while the sea pepper is relatively scattered. These circumstances show that the peppers in the Sichuan Basin should first accept the northern transmission system marked by Qin peppers, and there should be three specific routes for introduction: first, from Shaanxi to the South of the Qinling Shu Road into Sichuan; second, from Henan and Northern Hubei along the southern slope of qinling and Hanshui Valley Road to the west; third, from the two lakes along the Yangtze River west. The latter two roads should be connected to Hunan and north-central Hubei. The Fang Zhi that records sea peppers, while often calling them aliases or common names such as spicy seeds and peppers, is very close to the first line of Hunan and Guizhou, which should be the result of the continuous wave of "lake filling In Sichuan" since the middle of the Kangxi Dynasty, and the most direct influence on Hunan and Guizhou. A special title appears in the "(Daoguang) Chengkou Hall Chronicle": "Qian pepper, with its seed from Qian Province, commonly known as spicy, with its taste is the most spicy." A sea pepper, a ground pepper, both local names also. "It can be seen that the peppers here are mainly from Guizhou, and local names such as sea peppers and spicy seeds should be brought by immigrants."

It is the gradual development of the Sichuan Basin from Qin pepper to sea pepper, indicating that since the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, the north and south of the pepper have a final convergence area in the hinterland of the inland hinterland, and it also marks the general completion of the main process of the spread of pepper from east to west. The entry of peppers into Shu in the north and south has enabled Sichuan-Chongqing seasonings to obtain new and rich spicy resources on the basis of traditional Shu peppers, and promoted the gradual formation of sichuan cuisine's spicy characteristics. It is closely following the "Huguang Filling Sichuan" migration movement, marked by the strong spread of sea pepper, spicy seeds and other names, so that hunan, Guizhou as the center, including Yunnan, Guangxi most of the spicy area can be greatly expanded, and finally the formation of Hunan, Guizhou, Chongqing, Sichuan as the center of a larger scale of the southwest spicy area, laying the foundation for this vast region of distinct and roughly unified food tradition.

Looking at the formation of this spicy food habit in central and southern and southwest regions, in addition to the profound influence of the above-mentioned natural environment in Hunan, Guizhou and other places, "lakes fill Sichuan" and other social activities, the edible value and dissemination advantages of peppers themselves are also a factor that cannot be ignored. Pepper has a relatively pure, strong irritation, far better than pepper, pepper and other traditional spicy products, "the taste of spicy to this extreme", eating people are easy to become addicted, the crowd tends to become popular. The former citation Zhang Mu's "Debate on Adjusting Diseases and Diets" and the anonym", "Xiangqiao Smelling and Seeing Even", have clearly pointed out this point from the perspective of medicine and health care, and their earnest admonitions and worries show that some serious conditions had already occurred in some areas of Jiangxi and Hunan at that time. Pepper in this area is more directly called spicy, spicy fire, obviously more than the traditional pepper plants can meet people's salt, cold and wet objective needs, but also more likely to make eaters habits into the wind, appetite for food. Not only that, but chili peppers are annual herbs that are extremely simple and convenient to grow, and the yield is also very impressive. Judging from the records of various places since Qianlong shown below, the varieties of peppers also tend to be diverse, and there are different uses such as fresh and tender vegetables and seasoning of old and cooked dried products. The people at the bottom eat less meat and taste, and they are more inclined to use it. These all have the advantage of more cultivation and consumption popularization. This food tradition with peppercorns and other spicy spices is very long, especially in the Bashu region is still a rich producer of traditional Shu peppers, but before the middle of the Qing Dynasty, neither Xiangqian nor Sichuan-Chongqing had formed a distinct spicy habit, and it is obvious that the prevalence of peppers since kangxi has played a decisive role in the formation of spicy habits in this area. It is the unique natural environment, large-scale social mobility and other factors and the comprehensive role of peppers themselves planting advantages and edible value that have formed the historical conditions for the widespread spread and application of peppers in this vast area, and the gradual formation of this large area of pepper circulation and spicy habits in the middle of Kangxi to Daoguang years, including today's Hunan, Guizhou, Sichuan, Chongqing and Jiangxi, which is close to Hunan, is undoubtedly the most spectacular page in the history of Pepper transmission in China.

Prachuap Khiri Khan diet

The above-mentioned transmission from Shandong to the entire northern region, from Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Fujian to the entire East China, and from Guangdong and Hunan to the entire central and southern and southwest regions have successively formed the three major faunas of early transmission of pepper in China. The three major fauna are not only three relatively independent transmission routes and distribution areas, but also noteworthily corresponding to the three major divisions of China's diet spicy taste that Mr. Lan Yong said today. The three major sub-districts are: first, the northern micro-spicy areas from the Liaodong Peninsula, Beijing, Shandong and other places in the east, and Shanxi, Northern Shaanxi Guanzhong, Gansu and other places in the west; second, the southeast coast includes Jiangsu, Shanghai, Zhejiang, Fujian and other relatively spicy light taste areas; third, the middle and upper reaches of the Yangtze River include Hunan, Hubei, Guizhou, Chongqing, Sichuan, Jiangxi, and southern Shaanxi. Since the end of the Ming Dynasty and the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, the three major transmission fauna of peppers in China are showing roughly the same regional pattern, and the dense distribution roughly corresponds to the thickness of today's human diet. Among them, only Guangdong and Jiangxi have slightly different ownership, Guangdong as the source of the southwest central and southern regions, its own pepper spread distribution is extremely limited, the actual distribution and today's people's consumption are similar to those in jiangsu, Zhejiang and Fujian and other coastal areas. Although Jiangxi belongs to East China, the early Fang Zhi records are also few, but not coastal, the natural environment of the hilly mountains in the central and southern part of the territory is closer to the central and southern part of Hunan, since the middle of Qianlong, its pepper eating habits have developed by leaps and bounds, and the variety advantages are prominent, which is the intermediary link for the internal transmission of pepper varieties in Zhejiang, Fujian and Guangdong, so it is gradually integrated into the spicy area centered on Hunan, Guizhou, Sichuan and Chongqing. Of course, the three major transmission communities mentioned by the author are only in terms of peppers, and Mr. Lan's division is also the eating habit of peppers, peppers, peppercorns (mainly hemp) and other spicy resources. Among them, the spread of pepper is undoubtedly a key factor, only in this basic correspondence of ancient and modern distribution, but also fully shows that the spread and development of pepper into China for more than 200 years is crucial, laying the regional pattern of China's pepper distribution and corresponding eating habits since the late Qing Dynasty, and then only to Qinghai, Xinjiang, Tibet, Heilongjiang, Inner Mongolia, Hainan and other peripheral outlying areas of the further spread and expansion.

The source of chili peppers in our country

Regarding the origin of China's peppers, there is a premise controversy, that is, is China's peppers indigenous or exotic species? China's land is vast, the agricultural civilization has a long history, and its achievements are brilliant. The author firmly believes that if chili peppers originate in China, then the records of China's literature will never wait for the Ming Dynasty. The claim that chili peppers are native to China, if there is no rich and reliable archaeological discovery as a support, a reasonable explanation for the long-term lack of literature recorded before the Ming Dynasty, coupled with the strong proof of serious research on modern biotechnology, the excavation of any isolated scene will inevitably be suspected of catching wind and shadows, far-fetched, and it is difficult to be convincing. The author believes that China's peppers must have originally come from the Crops of the New World of the Americas. After completing the above-mentioned origin and early transmission status, the remaining question is the overseas source of China's peppers, that is, where does China's peppers come from. In modern times, China's Fang Zhi has a general saying of "planting out of the western region", and there are also reasonable speculations based on modern scientific knowledge: "(Chili pepper) originated in the tropical regions of South America, introduced to Europe in the sixteenth century, and was introduced from the south to Guangdong around the end of the Ming And early Qing dynasties, and then to the Central Plains." "However, the specific sources and paths of introduction cannot be blindly speculated out of thin air and taken for granted, such as the so-called introduction from Xinjiang through the Silk Road, from South Asia or the Indochina Peninsula through the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, there is no evidence." According to the examination and combing of the transmission process from east to west in the previous sections, and further related to the relevant information such as the successive changes in the name and variety of peppers, the author also has some new thoughts and judgments on this.

(1) The earliest chili peppers in China should come from the Korean Peninsula

The earliest records of chili peppers in China, including nongshu and Fang Zhi, are found in Shandong, followed by similar information before the middle of the Kangxi Dynasty, with the Beijing-Tianjin-Hebei-Central Liaoning and Yingkou lines in the north and the coastal lines of Zhejiang and Jiangsu in the south. The most likely scenario is that chili peppers originate in the Korean Peninsula or Japan in Haedong. According to the information provided by Japanese works, the time of introduction of chili peppers to Japan is astronomical eleventh year (1542), astronomical twelfth year (1543), astronomical twenty-first year (1552) and other different theories, equivalent to The twenty-first, twenty-second, and thirty-first years of Ming Jiajing in China, and it is said that it was brought back from the Japanese Wenlu period, that is, when the Army of Korea was sent to Korea from 1592 to 1596 AD, which is equivalent to the twenty-fourth year of china's Wanli calendar. The Korean Peninsula is an important spicy region in the world, and at least two kinds of literature from 1613 to 1614 record that chili peppers came from the Uighur kingdom, that is, Japan, which is equivalent to the forty-first and forty-second years of the Wanli calendar in China. In 1614, Li Xiaoguang's Zhifeng Class Theory:

Nanban pepper has a great poison, which originated from the Uighur Kingdom, so it is commonly known as the Mustard Seed, and now it is often planted.

Obviously, at this time, the Korean Peninsula has been spreading seeds and eating for some time. The introduction time is generally considered to be 1592-1598, that is, the "Nongchen Rebellion" in which Japan invaded the Korean Peninsula in the 20th to 26th years of the Wanli Calendar.

Although both Japan and the Korean Peninsula have spoken of a phenomenon of mutual origin, the ultimate source is inseparable from the process of the spread of crops in the New World of the Americas. Japanese scholars believe that their peppers came from the Portuguese who first broke into the Far East, and the Korean "Zhifeng Class Theory" called "Nanban Pepper", the so-called "Nanman" is exactly what the Ming people said when they recorded pumpkins, and actually referred to Portugal. In terms of time, the emergence of chili peppers in Japan is much earlier than that of the Korean Peninsula, and the latter's clear record of chili peppers is nearly ten years earlier than China's "Qunfang Spectrum". China's Shandong, Hebei, Jiangsu and the Korean Peninsula across the sea, Liaoning and the Korean Peninsula mountains and rivers connected, land transportation is not complicated. In the middle and late Ming Dynasty, the relationship between the Chinese and Korean clans was very friendly, and they were always actively resisting the Wokou. Therefore, the author supports the speculation of Jiang Mudong and Mr. Wang Siming that China's peppers come from the Korean Peninsula. However, considering that Wang Xiangjin's "Qunfang Genealogy" and the Shandong Oriental Chronicle record the time of chili peppers is obviously ahead, the author believes that the initial starting point of China's chili peppers was in Shandong rather than Liaoning and Zhejiang, and the source was mainly the Korean Peninsula opposite the Yellow Sea, and the way of transmission should be the sea, that is, the exchange of civil merchant ships and fishing boats.

Of course, there is also the possibility of non-human factors coming in. Humans have different likes and dislikes of peppers, and mammals such as monkeys, deer, and bears are also afraid of eating peppers, while birds are particularly fond of eating peppers. Japanese writings say that eating chili peppers helps birds heal diseases. The same has been reported in Mexico, where both birds and chickens peck at peppers, bringing seeds off-site. China's Fang Zhi also has a record of "pigeons like to eat salt and spicy". Experiments have shown that pepper seeds eaten by birds can basically germinate, but not by other small mammals, "the digestive tubes of birds not only do not destroy" seeds, but also "promote germination". At the end of the Ming Dynasty, Jiaxing, Zhejiang, the "(Apocalypse) Pinghu County Chronicle" records that the tomb of Prince Taibao Tuxun of Eyang Mountain in the southeast of the county is "a forest of mushrooms, birds from the South China Sea, gathered in the distance, autumn and spring." When he first came to caesarean section, there were green peppers, which were produced in Japan." Such records inevitably contain legends and imaginations, the green pepper is more likely to refer to the unripe green fruit of peppercorns and peppercorns, and there have been no experimental reports of how long pepper seeds can survive in the belly of birds, but in terms of the nearest straight-line distance between China's Shandong Peninsula and the Korean Peninsula of less than 250 kilometers, the possibility of spreading across the sea by seabirds exists. And it is worth noting that the "(Chongzhen) Licheng County Chronicle" was the earliest record that Qin pepper is a "wild vegetable", and the appearance of China's pepper in Shandong may be the result of the natural spread of birds. If the pepper mentioned in the "(Chongzhen) Jiangyin County Chronicle" is the same as the "Qunfang Spectrum", and it is located at the intersection of the river and the sea, and it belongs to the same wild grass, it may also be a seabird. Although the pepper was originally named "pepper" and recognized as an alien species, there is no specific record and corresponding description of the introduction process, in this case, the natural spread of birds is more worth considering.

Although the record of pepper in Liaoning is relatively early compared to many places in the interior, it is far after Shandong and also after Hebei, and it is more likely to be related to the "Shengjing" status of Shenyang in Liaoning after entering the Qing Dynasty. Frequent exchanges between the imperial family, the Eight Banners and related officials between the two capitals enabled the Qin pepper popular in the Beijing-Tianjin-Hebei region to quickly be introduced to Shengjing (Shenyang) outside the Guanwai. Liaoning peppers were originally only found in the Tieling and Gaizhou areas north and south of Shengjing, while the records of peppers in Jilin, Heilongjiang and even other parts of Liaoning are obviously backward, and it is obvious that the peppers of Liaoning originated in Shengjing and were passed down from Guannei. Since the middle of the Ming Dynasty, the power of Manchurian Nurhaci has expanded sharply, the situation in all aspects of the northeast has become significantly tighter, and it is unlikely that peppers will initially be introduced to northeast China by land from the Korean Peninsula.

The two names of "tomato" and "Qin pepper" mentioned in the "Qunfang Spectrum" are also worth playing. The former is a literati name, the latter is a folk name, "Qin Pepper" should be more primitive. The "Qunfang Spectrum" was mainly written when the author retired to his hometown in Shandong, and the common name "Qin Pepper" should have originally become popular in Shandong, and the earliest Fang Zhi records in Shandong were only called Qin Pepper. Mr. Jiang Mudong and Mr. Wang Siming speculated that chili peppers were imported by land from the Korean Peninsula, and believed that the name Qin pepper may be related to the Manchu pronunciation in Northeast China. The author believes that this name is more likely to be related to the distribution of traditional Qin pepper in Shandong in China. Qin pepper is a kind of peppercorn, together with Shu pepper, "Qi Min Yao Shu" quotes "Fan Zi, Ji Ran" to say "Shu pepper out of Wudu, Qin pepper out of Tianshui", Qin pepper because of the origin of Tianshui and other Qin countries and so on. The Southern Dynasty Tao Hongjing's "Catalogue of Famous Doctors" and the Song Dynasty's "Bencao Tujing" both call "Qin Jiaosheng Taishan Valley and Qinling Mountains or Langyue Shang", reflecting the situation in the Middle Ages. The three producing areas of Taishan and Langyue mountain are in Shandong, which shows that the Qin pepper in Shandong is widely distributed, has a long history, and the records of later generations are gradually decreasing, but at least the Ming Wanli "Yanzhou Fuzhi" still clearly records Qin pepper. After entering the Qing Dynasty, the Qin pepper in the Shandong Oriental Chronicle mostly refers to pepper, while the traditional Qin pepper is mostly called pepper. It is the Shandong region qin pepper is famous first, the folk first contact with pepper, see its spicy taste such as Qin pepper, so attached to the name, gradually become a popular custom. This is the same as the English word pepper, which originally referred to pepper, and later used to refer to chili peppers from the New World. In China, such as peppers, such as solanaceae herbs, were originally named after the woody "pepper", which is far less scientific than the "spicy tomatoes" said by the Zhejiang people after the Qing Dynasty, and there are some innate misunderstandings, and the scene should be related to the fact that peppers originally settled in Shandong, a traditional Qin pepper production area on the eastern coast. As a peppercorn, qin pepper is not hardy, growing unfavorably in northeast regions such as Liaoning, and the distribution of other areas along the eastern coast is not as prominent as Shandong, which does not have the same conditions, which can further infer that Shandong is the earliest introduction of peppers in China, and its most likely source is the Korean Peninsula across the sea.

Figure 1 Chili pepper diagram in 1605

Wang Xiangjin's "Qunfang Genealogy" records that chili peppers are "like bald pen heads, and the color is bright and impressive", which has been cited in many works at the same time and later. Interestingly, a picture of a pepper (pepper) from 1605 (33rd year of the Wanli Calendar) is provided in The Japanese writings (see Figure 1), and the pepper fruit is the shape of the bald brush drooping, and the pepper that first came from China through the Yellow Sea should be this fruit type. In the twenty-ninth year of the Kangxi Dynasty (1690), Lin Benyu's "Liao Zai Qianji" provides another figurative metaphor: "The shape is like horse milk." "Lin Is a native of Gai County, Liaoning Province, Guanwai Duoma, and speaks metaphorically with local life experience. The same metaphor can be found in the poem "Spicy Tomato Sauce" by Wu Shengqin (1729-1803), a native of the Songjiang South Hui (now part of Shanghai) of the Qianlong Dynasty: "Soft-pointed hanging horse milk, red shadows bloom in early autumn." Spicy love with the skin mash, evenly blended noodles. "Wu had served in the capital for a long time, and the metaphor of horse milk should be the head of the northerners, saying exactly the shape of the pepper that was common in the northern region at that time. If you search for pictures on the Internet with "horse milk", you will find that the so-called horse milk is a sagging bald brush pattern. Before the middle of the Qing Dynasty, the local Zhiduo, who had gone all the way west throughout the northern region, directly transmitted the name "Qin Pepper", and almost no longer described the shape of the pepper, but mostly said that it was this "bald pen head" or "horse milk" shaped variety. Among them, only the Shaanxi Fangzhi has some new sayings, but it belongs to the southern slopes of the Qinling Mountains such as Shangzhou, and it belongs to the south geographically. Between these two parables, the "bald pen head" appeared early and was quoted many times, while the metaphor of "horse milk" not only appeared late, but only happened by chance, and there was no preconceived sign. The information on the names and shapes contained in the "Genealogy of Qunfang" gives us the feeling that the origin of chili peppers in Shandong, from the Korean Peninsula across the sea. Of course, the possibility of direct introduction from Japan or even by Portuguese ocean-going ships in the same way cannot be completely ruled out. As for the time of introduction, it should be the late Ming Wanli (1573-1620) after the appearance of chili peppers in Japan and the Korean Peninsula.

(2) After entering the Qing Dynasty, the information of new varieties of peppers mostly originates from the southeast and south Coasts, and should mainly come from Southeast Asia

The southern Fangzhi's chili pepper records, in addition to the influence of Wang Xiangjin's "Qunfang Spectrum", it is somewhat unusual at the beginning, and the variety may have another source. In the Kangxi Decade (1671), the Zhejiang "Chronicle of Shanyin County" recorded that "spicy tomato, red, shaped like a ling", the name and description are obviously different from Wang Xiangjin's "Qunfang Spectrum". Also in Zhejiang, the Kangxi Twenty-fifth Year (1686) "Hangzhou Fuzhi" said that "slender, pure color Dan, can be a pot of a few players, famous spicy eggplant", the so-called slender shape, similar to the later said sheep horn varieties, are different from Shandong and other northern regions bald pen head, horse nipple that is bald cone shape different fruit type. Shanyin (present-day Keqiao, Shaoxing, Zhejiang) and Hangzhou were both coastal, and it is more likely that they were directly imported from overseas after entering the Qing Dynasty. Later, the "(Kangxi) Shanyang County Chuzhi" of Shanyang County in present-day Shangluo City, Shaanxi Province, recorded that "Pepper: The horns are like the horns of the bull". The size of the horns and horns is different, but the shape should be the same, which is the first batch of varieties with different shapes from those mentioned in Wang Xiangjin's "Qunfang Spectrum".

Since Qianlong, there have been more clear and different varieties in the southern part of Jiangnan, namely Taiwan, Fujian, Jiangxi, Zhejiang, Guangdong, Hunan and Sichuan. This series of varieties is also significantly different from the bald pen and horse milk shape that were popular in the north before, and it is often seen in multiple combinations, which is obviously a new source and breeding pattern. The earliest is the Qianlong Decade (1745) Sixty-seven "Taiwan Caifeng Tukao" recorded from the Netherlands, "solid tip long" woody pan ginger and Indonesia Jakarta "solid round and slightly pointed" two varieties. What is said to come from the Netherlands should be introduced after the Dutch occupation of Taiwan in the fourth year of the Ming Dynasty (1624), but it should initially stop at the island of Taiwan, and the introduction to the mainland should be in the first year of the Qing Kangxi Dynasty (1662) Zheng successfully recovered Taiwan or since the Qing government implemented the rule in the twenty-second year of the Kangxi Dynasty (1683), and the peppers from Indonesia should belong here or earlier from the Portuguese and Dutch colonists brought from the West. Then in the sixteenth year of Qianlong (1751), the "(Qianlong) Huichang County Chronicle" of Gannan, Jiangxi Province, recorded that "shaped like a pig's teeth" and named "chicken heart pepper" two kinds. Qianlong's 22nd Year Chronicle of Quanzhou, Fujian Province, records varieties that are "as small as goji berries and slightly long", the 24th Year Fujian Sanming 'Chronicle of Jianning County' records "Chicken Heart Pepper" and "Zhu Yi Pen" (small and sharp like a pen), and the "(Qianlong) Jianchang Fu Zhi" in Nancheng, Fuzhou, Jiangxi Province, records that "the round one is the chicken heart, and the sharp one is the sheep's horn" and so on. In the thirtieth year of Qianlong (1765), Zhao Xuemin of Hangzhou quoted the anonymous "Medicine Test" as "In fact, it is like a pole shape, like a scale hammer." There are those as small as beans and those as large as oranges. There are those who are born on top, there are those who fall under the upside-down leaves, and there are all kinds of differences." In the forty-first year of Qianlong (1776), the "(Qianlong) Maxiang Hall Chronicle" in Xiamen, Fujian Province, began to record yellow varieties, and the "(Qianlong) Guishan County Chronicle" in Huiyang, Guangdong Province, recorded that "there are chicken hearts, bergamot hands, red and yellow varieties". There are also various varieties of different sizes, lengths, and circles recorded in Jiaqingjian Jiangxi Zhangmu's "Debate on Adjusting Diseases and Diets".

The above varieties first appeared in Zhejiang, Fujian, Taiwan, Guangdong and other southeastern and southern Coasts and adjacent Jiangxi, and then gradually spread. In Hunan, which is rich in chili peppers and loves peppers, the "Chenzhou Fuzhi" of Xiangxi in the 30th year of Qianlong (1765) said that sea peppers are "like a crescent moon, the pods are pale blue, and the old ones are dark red", which is in the shape of sheep's horns and horns. In the same year, the record of Yongzhou's "Qiyang County Chronicle" is that "it is as strong as a locust fruit", and some Fang Zhi said that the wolfberry shape, and the wolfberry shape painted by Wu Qitao's "Botanical Name And Reality Tu Kao" of DaoguangJian should be the cherry-shaped varieties mentioned by today's people. During the Jiaqing and Daoguang years, most of these varieties spread to the spicy areas of Hunan, Sichuan, Chongqing and Guizhou in the central and western regions. Most of the areas involved in the north end of the Huai River and the Qinling Mountains, and are mainly transmitted in the southern region. Peppers are easy to vary with the growing environment and cultivation methods, so the cultivation varieties are extremely rich. Many of the above-mentioned varieties transmitted since kangxi may have cultivated varieties due to differences in growth environment and planting technology after being introduced to China, but since Qianlong, more new varieties that should be exotic have emerged one after another. It is speculated that its source should be roughly similar to Taiwan's "fan ginger", mainly from Southeast Asian fan countries and even Western ocean colonists. Since the middle of the Ming Dynasty in China, the Southeast Asian countries have been deeply affected by large-scale commercial and colonial aggression by Western powers such as Portugal and the Netherlands, and there are more opportunities for direct introduction of peppers, and pepper breeding and breeding are relatively leading. These areas are across the sea from the southeast and south Coasts of China, and there are frequent personnel exchanges, so it is extremely natural to continue to spread. Of course, the possibility of subsequent sea routes from the direction of Japan and Korea cannot be completely ruled out.

In summary, it can be seen that within the time frame of the author's investigation, the introduction process of peppers in China is obviously divided into two stages. The late Ming Dynasty to the early Qing Dynasty is the first stage, mainly from the Korean Peninsula through the sea, the varieties of bald pen head shaped so-called Qin pepper, first distributed in Shandong, and then Hebei, Beijing, Tianjin, Liaoning line, mainly in the northern region gradually spread westward. Since the Kangxi Dynasty, especially since the Qianlong period is the second stage, many new varieties such as diamond shape, bull horn, sheep horn, chicken heart, bergamot, yellow pepper and so on have appeared in Zhejiang, Taiwan, Fujian, Jiangxi, Guangdong and other southeast and south China coastal areas, mainly in the southern region gradually spread from east to west, and its source should be mainly the western colonies in Southeast Asia, and should also include some Western colonists directly transmitted through the ocean. These two waves of introduction constitute the source of varieties for the spread and development of peppers in early China, and lay the basic structure of ancient pepper varieties in China.

Further summarizing the full text, the earliest document for recording chili peppers in China is not the Ming Zhejiang Gao Lian's "Zunsheng Eight Notes", but the Shandong Wang Xiangjin's "Qunfang Genealogy", and the earliest record of China's local history is also found in Shandong. China's pepper originated in Shandong, after entering the Qing Dynasty, it gradually spread to the north and west, and the name used was mainly Qin pepper, forming a continuous time and a generally unified name transmission area in the entire northern region. During the Kangxi and Qianlong dynasties, with the North China Plain as the core, including Shandong, Liaoning and other local records of chili pepper records, it was the earliest chili pepper-loving area in China. During the Kangxi to Daoguang years, the peppers in southern China originated from Zhejiang, slightly later than in Shandong, and were initially called spicy tomatoes, and later imported varieties in Taiwan and Fujian were called pan ginger. Early Fang Zhi records throughout East China are relatively sparse, showing roughly the same regional characteristics. Peppers in the provinces of central and southern china and southwestern china are recorded later, but most of them are more intensive, and the transmission process is closely related. Among them, the peppers in western Hunan are recorded early and densely distributed, and were originally called sea peppers, which should come from the coast of Guangdong. Deeply rooted in the miao, Yao and other ethnic minorities living habits spread and the "lake fills Sichuan" migration activities to promote, but also to meet the special needs of some salt-deficient, miasma environment of the people, thus successively spreading strongly to the south and west, and finally forming a vast dense distribution area with Hunan, Guizhou, Sichuan and Chongqing as the core. Peppers in the Sichuan Basin are both the source of the north and the south, with the color of the ultimate confluence of the north and south roads, and also mark the basic completion of the main process of pepper transmission from the eastern coast to the western inland. Although the above three major regions have a sequence of starting times, they are more different divisions of pepper names, transmission relationships, and dense distribution, which have laid a regional pattern of different eating habits of peppers since the late Qing Dynasty in China. According to the above-mentioned origin, spread and related varieties of pepper information, the introduction of ancient peppers in China is divided into two stages. The earliest chili peppers should have come from the Korean Peninsula across the sea from Shandong, and were introduced in the late Ming Dynasty. Solanaceae plants such as chili peppers are named after woody "peppers" in China, which should be related to the original foothold in Shandong, where the traditional Qin peppers are more abundant. Since the Qing Kangxi Dynasty, especially since Qianlong, there have been many new varieties in Zhejiang, Fujian, Taiwan, Guangdong and other southeastern, south China coastal and neighboring Jiangxi provinces, and gradually passed on, and their sources should be mainly in Southeast Asia.