Original text: [hawthorn cheese]: Mashed with hawthorn and powder, steamed with pine nut crumbs and sugar, the best sour and sweet wine.
Chun Yuan Ming Xia Zengfu 'Suiyuan Food List Supplement' Miscellaneous Vegetarian Menu
"Supplementary Certificate of Food in the Garden" has hawthorn cheese, as mentioned above, cheese is a semi-coagulated food made of animal milk, or a paste made of fruit, such as cheese, buttermilk, walnut cheese, orange cheese, mango cheese, almond cheese, snowflake cheese, etc. Hawthorn cheese is a dessert cooked with hawthorn as the main ingredient. Red fruit cheese is sweet and sour, the color is red and translucent, the taste is sour with sweet and appetizing, it is a snack for all ages in summer. Hawthorn cheese is not only rich in nutrients but also has the effect of lowering blood lipids, lowering cholesterol and softening blood vessels. From the hawthorn cheese method, this product is similar to the fried red fruit of old Beijing.
Speaking of fried red fruit, it is the traditional food of old Beijing, it looks crystal clear, it is even more sour and sweet to eat, in the hot summer, the most beautiful thing is to eat a bowl of ice cold, sour and sweet fried red fruit, very appetizing and very appetizing and extremely enhance appetite. In the old years, Zhang Gongdao outside the North Gate sold sour plum soup in summer and fried red fruits in winter, which was well-known in the old city. At present, large and small restaurants, fried red fruits are included in the menu as a cold dish, and the price is charged. However, in the past, it was always a small dish, and when setting the table, it was one of the "four dry", "four fresh" and "four preserves", which was used for appetizers before eating. Large quantities of fried red fruits are sold in glass bottles by pastry shops; old Beijing families are often homemade, made as small food, and eaten as "idle white children". At that time, every household built a briquette stove, sealed the fire just to make fried red fruits, fried red fruits in the summer that is a rarity, because hawthorn only in late autumn to a large number of markets, sweet and sour appetizers of red fruits with crystal clear, ice cool soup, a mouth, people immediately feel refreshing, sour red fruits, really reluctant to eat. Eating some fried red fruits can not only eliminate the accumulation of stomach, but also play a certain role in detoxifying phlegm, awakening and refreshing the brain.
In the past, the big hawthorn was called red fruit or mountain red, the small one was called hawthorn, and the old Beijingers also called hawthorn also called quince, such as fried quince, quince cabbage, quince pear shreds and so on. It is said that the quince is a transliteration of the Manchu "sweet and sour", the earliest called "Wenpu" or "Wenpu", later falsely became the quince, it is said to be one of the species of hawthorn, in fact, the quince is another plant, is the genus of quince in the rosaceae family, a single species, a small deciduous tree. The name 榅桲 first appeared in the "Shuyi Ji" written by Ren Fang (Southern Dynasty Liang): "The people of Jianghuai southern reached the north, saw the quince tree, and thought it was hawthorn." "The hawthorn here is not hawthorn, it's a hawthorn, a kind of papaya. It was often seen in poetry during the Song Dynasty, and the text is the same as "Yan Si Hui Quince Yin Xie": "Qin Zhongwu is beautiful, and Quince is Jiaguo." "During the Song Dynasty, there were many quinces, "Tokyo Dream Hualu": "There are also small plates to sell dried fruits, which are spin-fried ginkgo biloba, chestnuts, Hebei duck pears, Shayuan quince ...".
Quince, also known as wood pear, a tree that grows in the north, the fruit is slightly closer to hawthorn, but it is small, divided into apple-shaped quince, pear-shaped quiver, tower-shaped quiver, large-leaved quince, spotted quince and other subspecies, is a relatively rare tree species, the fruit of the quince is like a papaya, the flower is also like a papaya flower, light pink. The old ones said that they were smaller than hawthorns, the big hawthorn was not the size of a ping-pong ball, the small one was like a cherry, and the quince was yellow, the hawthorn was red, there was really no similarity, the only similarity was pronunciation. Fu Cha Dun Chong's "Records of the Yanjing Years" does not make a quince, but writes as Wen Pu: "Wen Pu is shaped like a cherry and solid, stained with honey, both sour and sweet, quite capable of drinking." He said that Wen Pu was shaped like a cherry, which was right with Zhao Heng's saying that "it was smaller than hawthorn", and Wen Pu was the later quince tree. How Wen Pu became a quince can be found in a book called "Compilation of Several Lattice Objects". The book's reference to the quince is as follows: "And there are catalpas in Kansai, and there are quince trees (Manchurian Hawthorn, which is homophonous with Shaanxi). Cha Mei YaoChen has "Desha Yuan Yerifera" (德沙苑榅桲桲诗), and the Zhenghe Materia Medica (政和本草) is attached to the purse in the 桲内, which was already known during the Song Dynasty. Its beginnings are either from Shaanxi Liuming Guanwai, or from Guanwai Tongyin Shaanxi, both of which are undecided), and are also of the same category. "Quince is an apple (柰), but it also explains that quince is the Manchu pronunciation of hawthorn. Mei Yaochen has a poem titled "DeshaYuan Quince Drama Reward": "Tribulus has dried up, and the yellow frost of the tender wax cage has dried up." No more sour than Jiangnan hawthorn grapefruit, camel with Wu people to see. "The sand garden gerryon mentioned here is the sand garden quill sold in the street market in "Tokyo Dream Hualu".
The quince mentioned in old Beijing is not the botanical quill, but the genus hawthorn of the rosaceae family, which is far from the quince tree, and whoever has seen the flowers of the quince and the flowers of the hawthorn will not say that the quince is a kind of hawthorn. In fact, in the "Compendium of Materia Medica", quiver and hawthorn are listed separately, not the same plant, it can be seen that in the Ming Dynasty, people still have a clear division between quince and hawthorn, but in the Qing Dynasty, it is basically mixed, such as "Beijing Emperor Jing Shi Jisheng" said: "There are candied quince trees, the quality is like hawthorn, and the fragrance is too beautiful, from Liaodong." "The quince here is already a kind of hawthorn produced out of the gate, smaller than the Beijing hawthorn, but the taste is better, that is, the so-called "mountain red", it is not very sweet, but the sour taste is extremely heavy, generally not directly eaten, more used in medicine. When making "quince soup mixed with cabbage hearts", 3 pounds of "mountain red" should be added to 2 pounds of sugar, so as to suppress its sour taste.
Speaking of the quince tree, we can't help but talk about the quill of Beijing, the Xing family used to be a messenger for the emperor to make quince, and it has been passed down to Xing Weidong for several generations, and it is said that Cixi liked to eat his family's quince the most, and empress Dowager Cixi, who was tired of the taste of mountains and treasures, suddenly on a whim one day called to eat some quince to relieve the tiredness. The Xing family elaborately made, empress dowager Cixi tasted it, very liked, see this thing is crystal clear, sour and sweet, hawthorn glutinous soft, cake jelly melted in the mouth, she gave the royal seal of "quince". Hey, it's interesting to say, most of the delicious food in Beijing can be contacted with Lafayette, from the full Han chinese dish full of lamb seats, down to bean juice, stinky tofu, because Xi fo ye loves to eat. Most of the famous capitals in Jiangsu and Zhejiang are related to Qianlong, because The Old Master Qian is good to take the old Manchu surname of Xing Jia with him, ji da tobacco bags, and Liu Luo pots to go down to Jiangnan, whether anything else is true or false, the Xing family's yoke is absolutely true, the Xing family is an old banner person, the ancestors are indeed bad among the officials, and the Manchu old surname of Xing is Xing Jia, and also the Xing Jia clan, xing jia, xing jia clan, Manchu Zhongxing An clan, Xing jia clan, Xinggen clan, Ilgen Jue Luo clan, and Silda clan also take the Xing surname, but the surname Xing is not necessarily Manchu Other ethnic groups also have this surname. The Erzhu Er did have this in the Manchu han seat.
Speaking of Xing Weidong in Kyoto, we all know that there is a "four young people in the capital" in the culinary world, the boss Yu Meisheng, the old second Xing Weidong, the old third Chen Qing, the old fourth Hao Wenjie, Xing Weidong is the second grandfather of the four youngsters, Xing Weidong is also our good brother, the Xing family's palace secret recipe for making quail has not been passed down, in the past it may be because of Empress Dowager Cixi's Yu Wei, the folk have not dared to completely follow the formula of this court dish, and later the Cultural Revolution, everyone did not dare to mention, to his father's generation did not do catering, The secret recipe spread to his aunt and grandmother that there was no movement, and then the old aunt of the Xing family passed on the secret recipe of the quince court to Xing Weidong, Xing Weidong tried it out really extraordinary, the folk production of the quince, and the old fangzi of the court is still different, first of all, the quill making method does not put any additives, without adding agar glue, it is naturally formed with pectin in the hawthorn, and then the pectin in the hawthorn is neatly shaped, frozen like crystal, and now Xing Weidong is the inheritor of the Beijing intangible cultural heritage of the quince, and the quince is red all over the motherland. Even in the 2008 Olympic Games, the Beijing G20 Conference had crystal quinces, quince or jai cuisine to worship the Buddha, tanzhu temple Shi Chang Wu grand master all wrote inscriptions for the quince trees. The Xing family is not sloppy in making quince, and the hawthorn used is an iron hawthorn produced in the Yanshan Mountains at an altitude of 1,400 meters to 1,600 meters, although the yield is low, but it is rich in pectin, and it will never fall teeth when eaten. And the fruit must be picked by hand, can not be beaten, injured fruit can not be preserved, and what kind of people pick, but also exquisite, must be young boys, why young boys to pick? Because they pick fast, it is more conducive to preservation. After selecting the best fruit, after peeling, frying, boiling, fermentation, cooling and other processes, do a good job of quince crystal clear, full fruit, sweet and sour, sticky soft, no stuffed teeth and no teeth. What's even more amazing is that there are no additives, but it can still be kept fresh for a long time.
Now make with the garden vegetable hawthorn cheese, food single load, with hawthorn mashed and powder, add pine nut crumbs, sugar steamed, sour and sweet to help sober wine is the best. As mentioned above, cheese is a paste-like food, such as made into hawthorn juice, fried red fruit or crystal quince is definitely not right, hawthorn juice is a drink, fried red fruit, crystal quince is a seasoning side dish, hawthorn cheese is an appetizer dessert, this cheese can refer to the method of walnut cheese, walnut cheese is a kind of dessert made of glutinous rice, walnuts, dates, etc., first clean the glutinous rice, soak in warm water for 1 hour. After the walnut meat is soaked in boiling water, the coat is removed, the dates are washed, soaked in boiling water for 30 minutes, the skin is peeled off, and the pit is dug out. Glutinous rice, walnut meat, red dates with 100 grams of water, grind into a pulp with stone grinding and set aside. Put 350 grams of water in the pot, add sugar to the boil, pour the glutinous rice syrup in, and slowly push it with a spoon while pouring, so that the rice syrup does not stick to the bottom of the pot. When the pulp is boiled, the paste can be eaten in a bowl. Hawthorn cheese is made as follows: choose a large, full, rosy high-grade iron hawthorn, wash and burn a pot of hot water, put it in to stir constantly, heat evenly, and wait for the hawthorn to have no hard heart can come out of the pot. Then take a single plucked fruit stem, gently squeeze the fruit body, a complete pulp will come out, remove the core and break the carrot, the glutinous rice soaked through the powder, the pot put water to boil and add the appropriate amount of rock sugar, after the ice sugar is boiled, 10 pounds of water a pound of glutinous rice paste, and then add hawthorn paste in half to adjust the level, steaming on the top to maturity, sprinkle with crushed pine nut crumbs when eating. This buttermilk is thick and sweet and sour, this thing can be cool and hot, can also be cooled and put into the refrigerator to eat as you go, fragrant, sweet, sour, cool, better taste, the best decanting.
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