Text/Yangcheng Evening News all-media reporter Deng Weidong
Memories of taste will remain in your mind when you are young, winter melon cup, carmine guava, plum, salty acid... The taste of childhood will bring you extraordinary pleasure.
Today, Guangzhou has a group of award-winning young chefs who have worked in well-known overseas restaurants for many years, either for a short stay or have started their own catering business. They all have a common wish, that is, to use as many local special ingredients as possible, and to present the classic taste of Cantonese cuisine in an innovative Western way, so that the good taste of Cantonese people from childhood can be fully integrated with exquisite French food, so that more people can know the subtleties of authentic ingredients.
Cantonese classics hidden in exquisite French cuisine
Nowadays, many young chefs like to trace the roots of Cantonese cuisine, even if they have traveled overseas for many years, participated in various high-level cooking competitions and won numerous awards, once they return to Guangzhou, the affection of the homeland will come to them.
Nick Lin Lin Yuli is a native of Guangzhou and started his career as a chef in Guangzhou, where he has been working in well-known restaurants overseas for 8 years. As a guest chef at Conrad Guangzhou's Fu Guan Guan Restaurant, from August 20, he will join hands with Chef James to serve diners a 10-day dinner with a daily dinner of only 30 seats.
This time, in his menu full of French style, many dishes are inspired by Cantonese cuisine, and the selected ingredients are full of famous specialties from around Guangzhou: Conghua Sanhua plum, Panyu chayote, Nansha fresh river shrimp, Shiqi milk pigeon, Zengcheng carmine guava, watercress, Dongguan sausage, Xinhui tangerine peel, old ginger, grass straw grass, Yunfu beautiful plum... Under the gorgeous packaging of the French style, the taste base has a familiar figure of the Chinese people, and now it is just a wonderful transformation -
French chicken jelly: "Flavor bottom" comes from a winter melon cup
The shape of french chicken jelly is crystal clear, the noodles are covered with a layer of emerald green chayote slices simmered in broth, the taste is fresh and cold, the meat is tender, and the meat jelly is also mixed with a little lotus tip, chayote grains, plus a sauce made of Zhejiang vinegar and ginger juice, under the French packaging, diners can eat the familiar hometown flavor, exquisite and refreshing.
Lin Yuli said that Terrine is a famous French dish, on this basis, he combined the practice of northeast skin and meat jelly with it very well, and the taste base is the winter melon cup familiar to Guangzhou people, which has roast duck, Jiang Yaozhu ... Chew slowly and you'll have a faint taste of traditional Cantonese cuisine.
Italian hat-shaped dumplings: Contains Dongguan sausage watercress
The selection of staple italian hat dumplings is also very interesting, and many people know that Italian dumplings have a unique flavor, in addition to the thick sauce and the unique flavor of vanilla. Lin Yuli made Italian dumplings this time, the meat filling is wrapped with cuttlefish glue Nansha Xiaohe shrimp and the fat Dongguan sausage that has been fried; the thick French sauce is made of shrimp head, shrimp shell soup and watercress, sprinkled with a small handful of crispy sausage grains and fresh herbs before serving, the taste and taste level are very rich - there is the taste of sausage and watercress, which can not capture the hearts of the old People?
Suckling pigeons eat twice: use grass grass to complete the dry maturation treatment
Three treasures of Guangdong, tangerine peel, old ginger, grass straw grass. The dish designed by Lin Yuli can be said to have exhausted these three authentic ingredients, the pigeon is selected from Zhongshan, the pigeon breast is dried and matured with grass straw grass; the pigeon legs are first pickled with five spices, then the Chaoshan bagasse smoked duck method is used for processing, and then coated with pigeon juice and cooked over open fire. When serving, the old ginger shredded ginger that has been squeezed before is spread on the noodles, and the pigeon meat is crisp on the outside and tender on the inside, with a rich taste, tender and juicy, and a unique flavor.
This dish is accompanied by two kinds of sauces, one is to use chopped Sanhua Lee plus Japanese noodle sauce and sugar, boiled into a thick sauce, and the other is boiled with pigeon skeletons to make a sauce, followed by the old tangerine peel and floral carving Titian. The combination of the two, the taste is sweet and sour with a little salty, alluding to the French tradition of eating pigeon breast like to be paired with a sweet and sour sauce, and the aroma of tangerine peel makes the old Canton diners very happy.
With the dish of Sanhua plum, sour ginger do not miss, although there are only a few pieces, but Lin Yuli is "foot in the heart": Sanhua plum has two flavors, one is to conghua Sanhua plum roasted with fire and then marinated with Italian almond liqueur, the taste is refreshing and sweet; the other is processed with lactic acid fermentation, which is a bit like drinking soda, which is very interesting.
French pickled carmine: a spring of taste as a child
Before the official sweet slices came, Lin Yuli deliberately arranged a clever transition to eliminate the greasiness of the staple food - sweet and cold and delicious perilla pickled carmine guava: the sauce used for marinating is also very elaborate, including the french wine Mandarin with a citrus flavor.
Perilla and carmine are the favorites of many Guangzhou people, the carmine used by the chef is produced in Zengcheng, sweet and soft, and will be dipped in some plum powder before serving; the ice crystals at the bottom are made of yunfu beautiful plums, and young people usually crunch and crunch to eat it all.
Many people think that the perilla leaf on the guava is only used for decoration, and it turns out to be the finishing touch of this light food - sweet perilla is equally wonderful, and the original unique fragrance is not only well preserved, but also has a faint licorice flavor under the chewing.
Taste Lin Yuli's dishes, you will find a very distinctive feature, that is, the design is careful, very environmentally friendly and cherished: all kinds of ingredients will be "used to the end", even the scraps will not be spared - either made into ingredients, or made into sauces, and can become an indispensable and important part of the dish.
Classic French cuisine, the local terroir appears
Executive Chef Hong Biao and Chef Edoardo use the pure and simple cooking techniques of the South of France to serve with fresh ingredients such as Seasonal Specialties and Seafood, which are popular in Guangzhou, so that the dishes present a ripe fruit flavor, fresh herbal aromas, and various seafood delicacies, allowing people to feel the Mediterranean sunshine and beach atmosphere.
Lyon classic, oozing out the flavor of old cantonese soup
With bullfrogs, goji leaves, winter melon, J5 Spanish ham, this is a classic Lyon dish presented in a modern style and local terroir.
The beef frog leg is traditionally cooked, fried in butter, parsley and minced garlic until golden and crispy, and dipped in a salty and crisp ham breadcrumb, paired with a creamy goji leaf puree and lemon peel, the green herbal scent balances the rich flavor of the frog leg. In addition, accompanied by a bowl of moist chicken clear soup, its taste is inspired by the Cantonese winter melon cup, boiling the soup with winter melon, lotus seeds and night flowers, tasting with winter melon grains, bullfrog calf meat and Spanish ham, the taste is very rich.
French fruity dish inspired by the Cantonese classic Gollum meat
Inspired by the classic Gollum meat from Cantonese cuisine, this main course chef uses a variety of ingredients and French cooking techniques to create a new, fruity dish.
The chef uses the top 5J Spanish black haired pork neck meat with even oil and rich meat flavor, which is slowly cooked at low temperature until semi-cooked, then fried in butter until sweet and sour, and then poured with a layer of sweet and sour hawthorn caramel. The fruity aroma of the dish is enhanced by sautéed bell peppers and pickled red onions and roasted pineapples with ginger juice, finished with pork juice with Monkey 47 gin.
Local fruits transformed into French-style beautiful desserts
Featuring lychee, bayberry, hibiscus and raspberry vinegar, this dessert uses two seasonal fruits that represent the terroir of Guangdong to present a fresh taste through different textures.
There are two layers of flavor at the bottom, one is a sweet lychee, bayberry jam, and the other is a fresh and greasy lychee and bayberry snowba, covered with a hazelnut crisp, accompanied by airy lychee lemon cream, lychee gel, bayberry gel and fresh lychee, drizzled with roselle flowers and raspberry vinegar flavored with arbutus juice, the fruity aroma and acidity of the layering is multiplied.
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Source | Yangcheng Evening News
Image | The restaurant offers
Editor-in-charge | Wu Anqi