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Li Hui | Jiaxing meat is beautiful, and the memory is fragrant

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Li Hui | Jiaxing meat is beautiful, and the memory is fragrant

In 1979, he stood on a famous boat in Jiaxing South Lake.

Li Hui | Jiaxing meat is beautiful, and the memory is fragrant

Jiaxing meat dumplings.

In April this year, I went to Jiaxing for the ninth time and deliberately revisited Yanguan Town, thirty-seven years after the last time I watched the tide with my college classmates in Yanguan Town.

There was an old photograph of a group of students in our class sitting around a dike playing cards, not far from the river flowing. The river is the Qiantang River, the dam is in Yanguan Town, Jiaxing, and we came to watch the tide in the mid-autumn of 1979.

Li Hui | Jiaxing meat is beautiful, and the memory is fragrant

In 1979, haining watched the tide before playing cards on the shore. With my thick hair, Liang Yong'an on the left is now a professor in the Department of Chinese of Fudan University. On the right is Yang Dehua, the deputy editor-in-chief of the original Writers Publishing House, who unfortunately passed away.

We sat on the embankment and played cards waiting for the tide to come. In the photo, the person holding the poker opposite is me, can't believe it, the hair was so thick? On the left is Liang Yong'an, who is now a professor in the Department of Chinese of Fudan University. On the right is Yang Dehua, the deputy editor-in-chief of the original Writers Publishing House, who unfortunately passed away. The other backs, Tian Yingchun on the left, was the deputy editor-in-chief of Securities Times, and Zhao Funian on the left, who worked in the English Beijing Weekly. The other person, can't see clearly.

Sit by the river and wait for the tide. The embankment was full of people, sitting on the floor at will, or playing cards, or reading books, or chatting endlessly among parents.

Li Hui | Jiaxing meat is beautiful, and the memory is fragrant

I saved the 1979 Haining Tide Watch manual.

Li Hui | Jiaxing meat is beautiful, and the memory is fragrant

Schematic diagram of the Yanguan cultural relics and monuments on the instruction manual of "Haining Tide".

Li Hui | Jiaxing meat is beautiful, and the memory is fragrant

Return to Chang'an Town Railway Station.

This is my first time in Jiaxing. A dozen or so male classmates came together – strange, how come we didn't even have a female classmate? From Shanghai, take a slow train and get off at Chang'an Station. There is still a distance from the station to Yanguan Town, about ten miles, you can take a boat, and we walked from the evening to the moonrise. The trails are dirt roads that undulate over the fields. I remember that it was the first time of heavy rain, and the big pits and small pits on the road were full of water, mud splashing, and I couldn't look at it, and it didn't matter. Occasionally encountered with the waterway, there are boats sailing by, and most of the passengers are watching the tide. You shout me to respond, moonlight fishing fire, across the water to enjoy together, so not lively. Stepping on the moon, so there is a lot of fun.

Walking into the salt official, there were people everywhere, and the hotels of all sizes were full. Walking into a school, the classroom that was temporarily set up as a guest room was also crowded with people. We simply walked into the cinema. Watching the night show, a foreign movie "Ice Dream" that we have seen earlier, let us stay up until midnight. After watching the movie, we were cleared out of the scene, and we had to wander the old streets until the dawn of the morning.

"Let's go find Wang Guowei's former home." I don't know who suddenly proposed it. Jiaoshi Town was Xu Zhimo's hometown, but in the textbooks at that time, he was still only a character to the point, far inferior to Wang Guowei in Yanguan Town, and the classical literature teacher was fascinated and fascinated when he talked about it. "The crowd looked for him a thousand times, and looked back, but the man was in the middle of the light." Wang Guowei borrowed an ancient famous sentence that summarized the three realms of artistic beauty, as if to add a special meaning to our trip to guan tide.

A group of people wandered aimlessly. Walk the alleys, cross the old bridge, and around the town, the old houses are scattered in a cluster of green bamboo.

Li Hui | Jiaxing meat is beautiful, and the memory is fragrant

Today, the former residence of Wang Guowei in Yanguan Town.

"Where is Wang Guowei's former residence?"

"Kingdom Dimension? Who? I don't know. ”

Go again, ask again. Walk around, ask everywhere. The locals I met didn't even know it. No wonder, a name that is too distant and too lonely. I kept the Salt Official Tour Map at that time, and the "Salt Official Victory" on it only had the Zhenhai Pagoda, the Sea Temple, the Tang Dynasty Scripture Building, the Three Dynasties Zai Xiang Family, the Former Residence of Wang Guowei, etc., and the text was introduced, but even Wang Guowei did not mention it. Therefore, the yanguan people are familiar with the mansion and archway of Chen Gelao in the town, and what is the matter with the nerd Kingdom Wei who committed suicide in the unnamed lake? On this revisit, local friends specially visited the former residence of Wang Guowei and left a rare group photo.

Although only this photo was left behind by the guan tide at that time, the first trip to Jiaxing remained in the memory because of various interesting things, providing endless topics for the students to get together many years later. Or that in the Yanguan coach a ticket is difficult to find, good to squeeze in, do not care whether it is overloaded, finally arrived in Jiaxing City; or said that can not afford to stay in the hotel, fifty cents to live in the bath of the night Chase Shop, everyone also slept satisfactorily; or said that the South Lake is not so; or said that the big meat dumplings of Wufangzhai Someone ate two or three at once...

I was the "somebody" I was. Later, I went to Jiaxing many times and ate a lot of delicious dishes, but I still wanted to dare to say: RememberIng Jiaxing, the most memorable is Zongzi.

However, I have gone to Jiaxing many times, of course, not because of Zongzi.

Li Hui | Jiaxing meat is beautiful, and the memory is fragrant

Around 2002, Li Hui, Fan Xiaomei and Liu Yunzhou visited Ba Jin's ancestral home and Li Family Ancestral Hall in Jiaxing Tanghui.

Many years ago, I learned that there was a Xiuzhou Bookstore in Jiaxing, and the bookstore had a mimeographed book sales diary. After that, the diary was compiled into one book after another, "Laughing at Me selling books" (the first book was published by Tianjin Baihua Literature and Art Publishing House, and the sequel was published by Jiangsu Literature and Art Publishing House). The one who laughs at me, that is, Fan laughs at me, the owner of Xiuzhou Bookstore. Saying that the owner is actually wrong, Xiuzhou Bookstore is opened by Jiaxing Library, and it is accurate to say that Fan Xiao is a book seller.

A book seller sold out the world. Idly reading "Laughing at My Selling Books" is just like watching the tide by the river, the sound of the waves repeating the waves, and the scenes are repeated. Between the lines, look at the infatuation of book lovers, look at the madness of people in temperament, look at the hearts of the old and young literati in the south and the north of the world, read the spicy and insinuating wisdom of book buyers on books and people improvising, and look at the strange things and strange things that happen every day between heaven and earth... It is just a trivial daily record of book sellers in a corner of the land, and it is clearly an irreplaceable wild history that presents cultural customs and the appearance of sentient beings in the world.

Noshi, not bad. In my eyes, the author of "Laughing at Me selling books" has a strong sense of history. He was a diligent recorder, tirelessly recording the dynamics and gossip of the book buyers he saw and heard every day, and recorded wonderful fragments of letters and calls from all directions. But he is by no means a simple objective recorder, but more like a cunning and clever editor, letting his emotional fluctuations, preferences and even ideas run through the backdrop of different people, different dialogues, and different scenes. From this point of view, I am willing to think of "Laughing at My Selling Books" as a skit essay, or an essay with the charm of "The New Language of the World".

Li Hui | Jiaxing meat is beautiful, and the memory is fragrant

Xiuzhou Bookstore chatted about reading and took a group photo with new friends.

When I visited that year, I did not expect the famous Xiuzhou Bookstore to be just a hut next to the dilapidated road in front of the library, and it was unbelievably simple. Its library and office are equally crammed into a bungalow, dimly lit, and the toilet is barely movable between the desk and the pile of books. Laughing, I was dressed in a suit and leather shoes, and my hair was neatly combed. Later, his hairstyle became more fashionable and popular. He spoke unhurriedly, his body exuding Sven, and he could not see the cunning that was everywhere in "Laughing at Me Selling Books".

It is unbelievable to say that it is in this humble place that he uses a paper mimeograph to sell book newsletters and connects one reader after another. Reading "Laughing at My Selling Books", I often see many literati from all over the world, such as Shanghai Huang Bao Chen Zishan, Beijing Fan Yong Jiang Deming, Chengdu Liushahe Gong Mingde, Hainan Wu Liyang... Send money from near and far to mail order books here. There are also many people who are as happy to come and visit as I am. As a result, Jiaxing had a new place to go, and the readers in the north and south had a garden of divine intercourse. The small bookstore has such a famous and attractive, which can be called a scene of Jiaxing culture.

Later, Jiaxing Library moved to a grand new building in the suburbs, Xiuzhou Bookstore is located in the corner of the lobby, no longer simple, no longer bleak, but the small pattern is still the same. The same is the newsletter. It was still mimeographed, densely packed, the ink was hard to dry, and the shadows of the old days were still swaying in those words. That's the clever thing about laughing at me. The cultural atmosphere that has been created so hard needs to be supported and embellished by the old scenery.

In 2002, I went to Jiaxing to write "One Hundred Years of Ba jin", and laughed at me and asked a few friends to take me to Tanghui Town to find the Li Family Ancestral Hall that the young Ba Jin had come to visit and repair. The narrow and long stone road stretches along the river, and the former site of the Li Family Ancestral Hall is deep in the alley. The ancestral hall has long been demolished, but the pier not far away is still there. The old site was built many years ago with a bungalow, and I don't know who lived there. A two-story old house adjacent to the old site of the Li Family Ancestral Hall, the gate is closed, the courtyard wall is mutilated, tiptoeing through the wall, the yard is rubble, the weeds are high and waistless, spreading from the corner to the front porch. Looking at it again, the front wall panels are scattered, and the stairs in the room are uncovered without concealment. Apparently the owner had long since moved away and the old house had been abandoned.

"Go inside and have a look!" I propose.

Moving a few bricks and cushioning them at our feet, our group actually climbed over the wall and became the "uninvited guests" of the old house.

On the wall of the living room on the first floor, hangs a portrait of an old woman, dressed as a layman. Should be the owner of the old house. Walking upstairs, laughing at me in a desk drawer, I found a stack of old photographs, a few diaries. If he receives the most precious treasure, he will steal it for himself. He said that he might find interesting records from it.

Forget who took the portrait on the wall, perhaps a fellow photographer.

Li Hui | Jiaxing meat is beautiful, and the memory is fragrant

The window railing of Jiaxing "Shun" back has been hanging on the living room wall.

In a pile of wood under the stairs, I found a window railing, a group of characters exquisitely carved, actually intact. I was ecstatic and stole for myself. Walked to the stone steps of the riverside pier, put it in the water to wash it, and brought it back to Beijing. Today, the window railing hangs in my living room—I think I should have thanked and apologized to the owner of the old house.

When I go to Jiaxing, I always like to ask: "Is there still an old house to go to?" ”

Every year, when it comes to the Dragon Boat Festival, I will say to my brother, "Send some meat dumplings..."

Laugh my brother has not forgotten this hobby of mine, for more than ten years, every year between the Qingming and the Dragon Boat Festival, he will express the meat dumplings to Beijing, and try to be fresh bulk rice dumplings, indispensable and happy for a few days. It can be seen that it is still a layman, when it comes to the Dragon Boat Festival, do not say Qu Yuan, do not say dragon boat racing, do not say that there is mugwort hanging in front of the door, only know that zongzi, but also meat zongzi ...

Li Hui | Jiaxing meat is beautiful, and the memory is fragrant

With the beauties of Jiaxing Daily and the library.

Li Hui | Jiaxing meat is beautiful, and the memory is fragrant

Happy times in Jiaxing.

Very happy, the ninth time to Jiaxing, I got to know the supplement of Jiaxing Daily and a group of good friends of Jiaxing Library, Jiaxing memories, more and more warmth.

▌ Liugen is the author of today's headlines.

-END-

Li Hui | Jiaxing meat is beautiful, and the memory is fragrant

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