#2020 Vitality Conference # After Biden's victory, the owner of a fried liver shop in Beijing sent a blessing to Biden: "As an old friend, as a diner in our store, we sincerely congratulate Mr. Biden. ”
How did the fried liver shop owner and Biden become "old friends"? This relationship goes back 9 years.
On August 18, 2011, during his visit to China, Biden, then vice president of the United States, dined at a fried liver meal in Gulou, and five people ordered 5 bowls of fried sauce noodles, 10 buns, mixed cucumbers, cold yam, cold mixed potato shreds and cola, etc., with a total cost of 79 yuan. After eating for more than 20 minutes, Biden went to checkout, pulled out 100 yuan, and said to the shopkeeper: "It has brought you a lot of inconvenience, and the rest of the money is gratuated according to American custom." ”
However, Biden and his party did not eat Beijing's characteristic fried liver, brine boiling, the reason is not difficult to understand, after World War II, the living standards of Americans generally improved, everyone has long stopped eating water, so for fried liver, Biden naturally does not dare to try.
Fried liver is the characteristics of the old Beijing public breakfast, the characteristics are described in 16 words, called "soup bright red, liver sausage fat, strong taste is not greasy, thin but not spilled", the perfect match is pork and scallion stuffed buns.
Many outsiders first heard about fried liver, and they were misunderstood by the name. It was hard to pluck up the courage to eat a mouthful of sticky fried liver into the mouth, only to find that he was deceived: "How come there is no liver in the fried liver?" In fact, fried liver, neither fried, liver is also very little, the main ingredient is fat intestines and garlic, at best can be called "garlic braised fat intestines." As for the taste, it is probably as polarized as bean juice, old Beijing is eager, and outsiders are not very cold, and even a little avoidant.
The history of fried liver dates back to the last years of the Qing Dynasty.
In the first year of the Tongzhi Dynasty of the Qing Dynasty (1862), there was a shoe shop called "Da Shun Ji" in the south of The Middle Road of Xianyukou outside the Qianmen Gate of Beijing. Da Shun remembered the operating loss, so he vacated a façade and rented it out to Liu Yongkui, a Beijinger. Liu Yongkui and his wife opened a tavern, selling some white wine, rice wine, as well as small dishes such as white water offal, peanut rice, pine blossom eggs, salted duck eggs, and some folding baskets.
It turned out that in order to take care of the poor, Boss Liu also collected and packed the leftovers of the surrounding restaurants and restaurants into folding baskets and sold them to the poor people at a low price.
Legend has it that one day, an old man ordered two bowls of folded baskets, but when he touched his pocket, there was not enough money. Liu Yongkui said: "You are so old, it doesn't matter if you eat two bowls in vain." After the old man left after eating enough, Liu Yongkui found that the folding baskets sold in the store today were not less, but the more they sold, the more they sold. He was very strange, but when he turned his thoughts, he thought that the old man was a god? Because of his good deeds to help the little shop? Therefore, Liu Yongkui named the store "Hui Xian Ju".
But later, the operation of the small shop became more and more sluggish, and the owner was sad.
In 1900, Yang Manqing, the host of the "Beijing New Daily" who often patronized Huixianju, suggested that the white water offal in the store should be improved, the heart and lungs should be removed, only the fat intestines and a little liver should be left, and the sauce color should be added to the sauce and then hooked, made into a braised fat intestine, suppressing the smell of the organs, which was both depressing and flavorful, and the people would definitely like to eat it. But the name can not be called braised fat intestines, simply called fried liver bar, which may be attractive.
When the shopkeeper heard that this idea was good, he took care of it. Hui Xianju soaked and kneaded the fresh fat pig intestines with alkali and salt, and then washed with water and vinegar, simmered over low heat; the intestines were cut into small pieces after rotten, and the fresh pork liver was sliced into willow leaf-like strips, of which pork liver accounted for only 1/3. Once the ingredients are ready, start boiling. First heat the fat intestines and liver, fry the large ingredients thoroughly, add raw garlic, and when the garlic turns yellow, add the yellow sauce and fry well, and the garlic sauce will be ready. In addition, boil a pot of mushroom soup and set aside. When the ingredients are ready, we start making fried liver. First, put the cut cooked intestines into the boiling soup, then add the garlic sauce, green onion, ginger and mushroom soup, then add the cut pork liver, immediately contour, and finally sprinkle with garlic paste.
The first bowl of fried liver in old Beijing came out.
In 1956, the public-private partnership, Huixianju and Tianxingju merged, and the store site of Tianxingju was called Tianxingju. Sha Deliang, a descendant of the former Manager of Tianxingju, is the manager, and the master who has the best liver frying technology is the master of Huixianju, and a special sausage washing workshop has been set up, so that the traditional flavor of Beijing fried liver can be inherited.
In the "Yandu Small Food Miscellaneous Songs", there is a bamboo branch word that first writes fried liver:
"Boil the fat intestines in the thick juice, and taste the fairness of the trade." The proverb spread the eight precepts of the pig, and a roasted liver incense was made in the market. ”
Huixianju's fried liver became famous as soon as it was launched, and after that, many small restaurants and snack bars in Beijing imitated this dish, and there were also playful words on the market with fried liver as the word, such as scolding people and saying: "How can you be like a fried liver, no heart and no lungs." ”
9 years ago, these dishes that Biden ate in the Drum Tower were sought after by netizens as the "presidential package", and many people also came to Yao Ji to fry liver. In fact, Biden was only a vice president at that time, and it was not worthy of the name to call the "presidential package", and now that he has been successfully elected, the name of the "presidential package" is even tougher.
Just imagine, if someone had told Biden about the palm of fried liver, I don't know if he would have been inspired by the deep food culture of old Beijing and made an exception to taste "fried liver"?
Mr. Biden, let's make up for the fried liver in China.
@Toutiao History @Toutiao Cuisine