Chinese Food Culture: Dongting Biluochun

One of the top ten famous teas in China, it belongs to green tea and is produced in Dongting Mountain, Taihu Lake, Suzhou, Jiangsu Province. Dongting Mountain is divided into two mountains, east and west, and Dongshan is a peninsula like a giant boat reaching into Taihu Lake; Xishan, a few kilometers away from Dongshan, is an island standing in the lake, and is said to be a summer resort for Wu Wangfucha and Xishi. The climate here is mild, warm in winter and cool in summer, and the vast surface of Taihu Lake makes the air moist and cloudy, which is very suitable for the growth of tea plants. Here is also a famous tea and fruit intercropping area in China, tea trees and peach, plum, apricot, plum, persimmon, orange, pomegranate, loquat and other fruit trees planted. The tall fruit trees as tall as umbrellas can not only cover the tea trees with frost and snow, cover the hot sun, so that the tea plants grow strong seedlings, and the tea buds are tender, while the tea trees also absorb various floral fragrances during the spring and warm blossom season of the fruit trees, so that the production of Biluochun has a unique style of floral and fruity flavor.

The production process of Biluochun tea is extremely demanding. The high-grade biluo spring fresh leaves are particularly delicate and tender, the tenderness is higher than that of Longjing, generally for the first development of one bud and one leaf, and 500 grams of tea requires 68,000 - 74,000 bud heads. The picking period is from the spring equinox before the valley rain: usually in the morning tea, the fresh leaves collected should be finely selected, and the fish leaves, fragments, old leaf stem stems and inclusions are removed to keep the buds and leaves uniform. After picking the fresh leaves, they are stir-fried, and the frying process is divided into four steps: killing green, kneading, kneading, rubbing dough (making shape, lifting), and drying, all of which are completed in the stir-frying pot. Its characteristics are: the hand does not leave the tea, the tea does not leave the pot, the magic belt kneading, kneading and stir-frying combination, continuous operation, in one go, the whole process lasted 35-40 minutes.

According to the local standards issued by Jiangsu Province in 1997, Biluochun is divided into five grades, including special grade and grade one to four, and the buds and leaves decrease in tenderness with the increase of the number of grades. The quality of high-grade Biluochun is characterized by slender cords, curled into snails, full of clothing, silver and white hidden green; The aroma is rich and elegant, and the taste is fresh and mellow; The soup is turquoise and clear, and the leaf bottom is tender and green. Local people summarize the quality characteristics of Biluochun as "copper wire strip, spiral shape, full of hair, floral and fruity taste, fresh and fresh". Dongting Biluochun has a unique quality style, well-known at home and abroad, and is often used to entertain foreign guests or as a high-end gift.

There are many theories about when Biluochun began and where the name came from, and it is now more recognized that it is the account of Wang Yingkui in the Qing Dynasty. It is said that there are several tea trees in the wild on the stone wall of Biluofeng in Dongting Dongshan, and the local people pick them back in baskets every year during the tea season and drink themselves. One year, the tea plant grew particularly luxuriant, everyone rushed to pick, the bamboo basket could not be packed, had to be placed in the arms, the result of the tea was fumigated by the heat in the arms, producing a strange aroma, the tea pickers sincerely admired "frightening people incense " (Wuxian dialect, hence the name.

After the Kangxi Emperor toured Taihu Lake, Inspector Song Jijin offered "frightening incense" tea. Kangxi pin felt that the fragrance was good, but the name was indecent, so it was titled "Biluochun". Although the name of Biluochun tea is derived from the production of Biluo Peak, the soup of Biluochun tea is turquoise, the shape is like a snail, and the characteristics of harvesting in early spring are also summarized by the tea name.

The storage conditions of Biluochun are very exquisite. The traditional storage method is to pack tea leaves in paper, bag of block lime, tea and ash spaced in the cylinder, covered and sealed moisture absorption storage. With the development of science, in recent years, there are three layers of plastic plastic bag packaging, layered tight tie, isolated from the air, placed in a refrigerated box or refrigerator below 10 ° C storage, long storage for more than a year, its color, aroma, taste like new tea, fresh and refreshing.

To be continued...

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