Where the day oblique drama disperses, the feast is the same as the sixth and the same. Three big money to buy sweet flowers, cut cake ghost legs chatter, in the morning a bowl of sweet pulp porridge, only to eat tea soup and noodle tea; cold fruit cake fried sugar ears, hanging stove burnt cake Ai Wo Wo Wo, fork fire just sold, and listen to hard noodles called dumplings; roasted wheat wontons are lined up on the plate, newly added hanging powder good tangyuan, fried belly oil liver fragrant enema, wood whisker yellow cabbage slice soup.
This is the Qing Dynasty Yang Miren's "Dumen Bamboo Branch Words", the words are not very well written, but it is very mouth-watering - I don't know how many food lovers, thinking of eating all the Beijing snacks mentioned in the words! The old saying that Beijing snacks are called "head-to-head food" or "vegetable tea", which not only integrates the civilian flavor snacks of Han, Hui, Mongolian, Manchu and other ethnic groups, but also integrates the elegant snacks of the Ming and Qing imperial relatives and nobles, with a total of more than 600 kinds, and there are about 100 kinds of preserved ones, including small dishes to accompany meals, feast noodles, and a variety of small foods for snacks or breakfast and supper. Many of these snacks are snacks in our eyes now, and in the past it was the meal of the common people, and a nest head and a night of brine and boiled stomach were common things. Someone summed up three characteristics for Beijing snacks: one is the taste, salty and sweet, the taste is obvious; the second is the texture, either crisp and delicious, or soft and smooth, with little skin collapse; the third is the temperature, some eat hot mouth, like hot fried cakes just out of the pot, white soup offal, some of the entrance is cold, like Jiangmi cold cake, Ai Wo Wo, there is no cold and warm swallowing. Beijing people eat Beijing snacks, how to eat how to love, smack into the mouth, taste is the real taste of the flat-headed people eating food, is the childhood, the older generation of the old life of the aftertaste and reminiscence; foreigners eat Beijing snacks, there are eating a mouth full of juice crumbs and praise, there are also skimming mouths do not care, but whether you love to eat or not, with others to introduce Beijing, snacks are the content that can not be missed - what they taste, is the old Beijing through the streets and alleys where to eat the city style, It is an ordinary legend that has lasted for a hundred years in the Four-Nine Cities.
Four nine cities with snacks
In the old Days of Old Beijing, in addition to opening shops, there were many street picky vendors selling, and shouting and selling was particularly important for them, not only to have sufficient strength, crisp throat, good tone, but also to be able to make up words and adapt to changes. Compared with other places, the shouting in old Beijing has distinct characteristics, that is, there are many children's sounds, long drag sounds, humorous language, and one-shot, in addition, different ways of selling goods are very different, the styles are diverse, and people can't get tired of listening. Liang Shiqiu once wrote in "Snack Vendors in Beiping": "The shouting of Beiping vendors is very special. I don't know if this has anything to do with ping opera (that is, Peking Opera), which has a lot of ups and downs, and has changed a lot, some are bold like singing big flower faces, some are dull like blackheads, and some are crisp as shengdan, adding a lot of fun to the vast city sound in the daytime, and bringing some desolation to the silent night at night. Listening carefully to the voices of the vendors, there are direct analogies, there are metaphors, and sometimes they are as intriguing as riddles. And their shouts, as they have been for decades, have not changed. It can be seen that just a shout of selling is also quite a doorway. Although there are many vendors carrying baskets every day, they are not chaotic. Whether it is from the time of day or from the change of the four seasons, all kinds of food picks have their own unique time and way of selling. Early in the morning, we sell breakfast, rice porridge, burnt cakes, fried fruits (ghosts) and so on. Fried fruits are similar to fritters, but not long strips, there are two kinds of flavors, four rounds are full together is sweet oil fruit, small circle of salty oil fruit, all fried scorched, sandwiched in the baked cake to eat a crisp sound. There are four main kinds of baked cakes, tahini baked cakes, snail turns, horseshoes, donkey hooves, and there are also different ones. The size of the tahini cake is very exquisite; the snail and the "sweet pulp porridge" are best eaten together, and the salty oil fruit with small circles is sandwiched; the horseshoe has only two thin skins, which are suitable for eating with the fried sweet oil ghost; the donkey's hooves are small and thick. After the early breakfast, it sells green vegetables, and pays attention not only to sing the goods on the pick without leaking, but also to rhyme with the rhyme. For example, a radish seller: "Not chaff and not spicy, two bundles of radish a big one." "Big" is a copper plate. Since the afternoon, there are people who sell "gluten yo" along the street, very interesting, the buyer shouted that he had to shout "sell smoked fish", after the sale came to open the food box to see, the sale is the pig's head meat, in addition to the face of the pig's head meat, the mouth strips, there are brains, liver, intestines, bitter intestines, hearts, hoof tendons, etc., with a different flavor of dry hard fire. The seller drew a thin knife from the splint crack, cut it horizontally, cut the pork head as thin as paper, and stuffed it in the fire to eat, a bit like the current meat sandwich bun. In the evening, there were sheep's head meat sellers, the knife plate utensils were brushed spotlessly, the sheep's face was cut very thinly, and some special salt was sprinkled from a cow's horn. There are also cars that push and sell "roast lamb neck roasted lamb". Roast lamb is cooked first and then fried, and stomach and brine soup are also sold. There are also many types of suppers, with vendors picking wontons, one end is a string of small drawers with a variety of semi-made ingredients: skins, fillings and ingredients, and the other end is a soup pot. Wontons are not only cooked in person, but also pay attention to eating fresh buns. Shout out "Wontons feed - open the pot!" "As soon as the fire hits, the soup pot boils. Late at night, there are also hard noodles that sell hard noodles, there are bald heads, bumps, bracelets and other types, and the sound is thick and the words are simple, just a sound of "hard noodles - gluttony".
Be particular and barking
In the spring, there are apricot sellers, "water apricots badan wood..." As soon as the alley shouted, a group of children immediately surrounded them, and after a while, everyone held a handful of green apricots in their hands,—— a handful of sweet and greasy honey, and ate it with relish.
In the summer, snowflake cheese made of watermelon and crushed ice is on the market. "Snowflake cheese" can be comparable to ice cream, summer streets, everywhere you can hear the "ice cream, snow and flowers to fall, sweet and cold, often pull the main road" shouting. Lotus leaf porridge is also one of the most popular snacks. Use japonica rice to boil porridge, wait for japonica rice to blossom, porridge soup is slightly greasy, with "two cang" one (young lotus leaves without lotus fragrance, old lotus leaves taste bitter, boiling lotus leaf porridge must use a moderate "two cang" lotus leaves), the hard tendons at the tip are broken, covered on the porridge skin in the pot, and then the porridge pot is brought down, and the pot lid is simmered. If you want to add sugar, you should put it before the lotus leaves are covered to make it sweet and fragrant. Autumn is selling persimmons. There are two kinds of drinks for selling persimmons, simple and traditional. Jane's only one voice was "the big persimmon that drank honey". Enough is enough. But at that time, the vendors wanted to show off their voices, so some persimmon sellers not only made up the words lively, but also showed off a singing voice. At the very least, it has to be like the half-talk, half-singing confession in opera. In the winter, "Gourd - just dipped" appeared. There are also those who sell baked sweet potatoes, and when you hear "roasted white potatoes are really hot", you have to buy a piece. The selling is exquisite, and the diners are also exquisite. For example, eating fried liver and drinking noodle tea never use spoons and chopsticks, but holding the bottom of the bowl, turning in a circle to suck the child; eating brine and boiling fire can not put coriander; eating tofu brain can not put pepper paste, have to put pepper oil; eat fried enema can not use chopsticks, have to use toothpicks... If you don't eat like this, the old Beijingers will say that you are a sand pot and a spoon.
The food sold in the four seasons is also different
In the spring, there are apricot sellers, "water apricots badan wood..." As soon as the alley shouted, a group of children immediately surrounded them, and after a while, everyone held a handful of green apricots in their hands,—— a handful of sweet and greasy honey, and ate it with relish. In the summer, snowflake cheese made of watermelon and crushed ice is on the market. "Snowflake cheese" can be comparable to ice cream, summer streets, everywhere you can hear the "ice cream, snow and flowers to fall, sweet and cold, often pull the main road" shouting. Lotus leaf porridge is also one of the most popular snacks. Use japonica rice to boil porridge, wait for japonica rice to blossom, porridge soup is slightly greasy, with "two cang" one (young lotus leaves without lotus fragrance, old lotus leaves taste bitter, boiling lotus leaf porridge must use a moderate "two cang" lotus leaves), the hard tendons at the tip are broken, covered on the porridge skin in the pot, and then the porridge pot is brought down, and the pot lid is simmered. If you want to add sugar, you should put it before the lotus leaves are covered to make it sweet and fragrant. Autumn is selling persimmons. There are two kinds of drinks for selling persimmons, simple and traditional. Jane's only one voice was "the big persimmon that drank honey". Enough is enough. But at that time, the vendors wanted to show off their voices, so some persimmon sellers not only made up the words lively, but also showed off a singing voice. At the very least, it has to be like the half-talk, half-singing confession in opera. In the winter, "Gourd - just dipped" appeared. There are also those who sell baked sweet potatoes, and when you hear "roasted white potatoes are really hot", you have to buy a piece. The selling is exquisite, and the diners are also exquisite. For example, eating fried liver and drinking noodle tea never use spoons and chopsticks, but holding the bottom of the bowl, turning in a circle to suck the child; eating brine and boiling fire can not put coriander; eating tofu brain can not put pepper paste, have to put pepper oil; eat fried enema can not use chopsticks, have to use toothpicks... If you don't eat like this, the old Beijingers will say that you are a sand pot and a spoon.
Taste of Beijing
By the early liberation period, the more concentrated places of beijing's snack stalls were Longfu Temple, White Pagoda Temple (originally two temples in the east and west), Xisi, Drum Tower, Qianmenwai, Tianqiao, Caishikou, Niujie, Flower Market, Dongyue Temple, etc. There are hundreds of snack bars or food stalls in these locations, and they are all available for frying, stir-frying, cooking, frying, and branding. In the case of Longfu Temple, in the 1950s, food stalls were one after another, such as "Ma Ji Dumplings", "Rice Cake Tiger", "Popcorn Poplar", "Tofu Brain Horse", "Bean Juice An" and so on. The door frame alley outside the front door of the old Beijing is even more incredible, don't look at it now quite unremarkable, but in the past it was very prosperous, as the saying goes, "in front of the East Four West Single Drum Tower, the front gate of Wangfujing is a large fence, and the small door frame alley is a line of heaven." The door-frame hutong, which is no more than 100 meters long and less than one zhang wide, gathers the famous food stalls in Beijing, from south to north: Fushun Zhai sauce beef, rice cake money, pea Huang Wan, oil crispy fire roast Liu, pie Lu, fried belly Yang, cooking yang selling rice cakes, fried cakes, tangyuan cook Yang, rice cake Yang, tofu brain white, fried belly Feng, sheep head horse, cheese Wei, Kangjia old tofu, stir-fried fire sand, bun Yang, Tongyiguan shabu lamb, Ruibin Lou (formerly known as Xiangrui) folds and fire, Dexingzhai roast lamb white soup miscellaneous and Junwangye roast cake, etc. Although these small stalls are not large, almost every one of them has a long history and rich legends, attracting hundreds of old Beijingers to come and enjoy the blessings. In the early years, the Dashilar area was not only the commercial center of the capital, but also an entertainment center, where "Guanghe", "Guangde", "Sanqing", "Zhonghe", "Qingle" and other theaters; "Tongle", "Daguanyuan" and other theaters, many celebrities in the opera and art circles often came and went here, they were also regular customers of the door frame Hutong food stalls, Qiu Shengrong, Shang Xiaoyun, Jin Shaoshan, Lu Xun, Chang Baokun, Zhang Hexhui and other cultural celebrities were loyal customers here. However, after 1949, the people's government implemented a public-private partnership policy for the old brands of door frame hutongs, and many of the old brands that had been passed down for generations were nationalized, and some of the doors were merged or closed. In 1985, the descendants of Burst belly Feng reopened the Burst Belly Feng Restaurant in the door frame alley, and since then, the old names such as Ruiming Lou and Yuesheng Zhai have also settled down, and the door frame alley has gradually restored its former prosperity together with the entire Dashilar. However, the good times did not last long, and since 2006, the Qianmen area has been demolished, and the glory of the door frame hutong has once again been destroyed. With the change of the commercial pattern, the snack street of Longfu Temple has not been as grand as it was then. Today, there are three best places to find a concentration of snacks in Beijing: Houhai, Huguo Temple, and Niujie. Houhai's "Nine Doors Snacks" is equivalent to a replica of the door frame hutong, and the old snacks such as Bursting Belly Feng, Rice Cake Money, Cheese Wei, Small Intestine Chen, Tea Soup Lee, and Qiao Qiao Fire are all unveiled here, as if the door frame alley of dashilar was rebuilt. The Gokokuji Temple snack bar evolved from the Gokoku-ji Temple. In 1956, the government organized more than a dozen stalls such as the famous tea soup Ying at the temple fair, the grilled cake Nian, the white potato king, and Zhang Dahu, who operated sheep frost intestines, and opened a snack shop at the current address of No. 93 adjacent to the Huguo Temple (opposite the People's Theater), operating more than 100 varieties of traditional Beijing snacks. For decades, it has kept pace with the times, improving food and renovating stores, not only highlighting the characteristics of old Beijing style, but also allowing customers to taste old Beijing snacks while appreciating old Beijing style. Niujie street is a famous halal street, inhabited by more than 20 ethnic groups such as Hui, Manchu, Korean, Uyghur, Mongolian, and Han Chinese. Although most of the snacks here are halal, there are at least dozens of kinds. And because of religious beliefs, the snacks here are more authentic and generous than other places. Of course, there are definitely many delicious long-established shops hidden in the vast city of Beijing, so it is necessary for gourmets to look for them little by little.
Types of Beijing snacks:
1 steamed class
Big bee cake, fruit sugar bee cake, bowl cake, flower cake, lotus cake, yu qian cake, shou peach, small nest head, jujube lotus leaf, silver wire roll, meat bun, spinach basket, hot dumplings, roasted wheat, sheep's eye buns, poured monk hat, pea bun, flowering steamed bun, mille-feuille cake, grilled cake, dumpling dumplings, noodles rubbed caviar, kidney bean cake, wooden jujube.
2 fried roasted categories
Jiangmi noodle fried cake, hot noodle fried cake, cream fried cake, stick mallet fruit, scorched circle, crisp twist flower, steamed twist flower, honey twist flower, honey three knives, ginger juice fork, open mouth laugh, spring roll, fried rolled fruit, fried triangle, white potato bell, fried pocket, dragon whisker cake, steamed fried food fried, fried meat fire, fried back, a pint of roast cake, fat oil cake, pot sticker, Jingdong meat cake, mutton cake, pancake, loin cake, sleeve fire, pot cake, enema, dung dumplings, sugar fire, sugar snail turn
3 sticky goods
Aiwowo, pea yellow, jiangmi cold cake, chestnut cold cake, adzuki bean cold cake, date cut cold cake, sesame roll cake, donkey roll, kidney bean cake, kidney bean roll, pot cake, yam cake, purple rice cake, eight treasure rice, small jujube rice dumplings, river rice cake, white rice cake.
4 liquid food
Bean juice, tofu brain, old tofu, brine fried tofu, noodle tea, tea soup, oil tea, almond tea, adzuki bean porridge, eight treasure lotus seed porridge, barley rice porridge, pea porridge, lotus leaf porridge, Lantern, walnut cheese, yuanbao wontons, mutton noodles, almond tofu, cow cheese, leaky fish, dried fruits, watermelon cheese, ice bowl.
Old Beijing, send gifts to send "Beijing eight pieces"
In the old days, Beijingers visiting relatives and friends had to carry gifts and pay attention to sending "eight pieces of Beijing", that is, eight kinds of Beijing-style pastries with different shapes and tastes. It is divided into eight large puff pastry pieces, eight small milk skin pieces, and eight thin wine skin pieces. It is filled with eight ingredients, including date paste, green plum, raisins, roses, bean paste, sugar, bananas, and pretzels, and is made with oil, water, and noodles. It is generally made into eight shapes such as flat round, ruyi, peach, apricot, waist, date flower, lotus leaf, and egg circle. There are Fuzi Cake, Luzi Cake, Shouzi Cake, Xizi Cake, Taishi Cake, Pretzel Cake, Jujube Flower Cake, Sage Horse and so on. "Jing Ba" was founded as the imperial dining room of the Qing court, which was originally a snack to be placed on the table by the royal family in major festivals and ceremonies, and it was also an indispensable gift for them to give to each other, not only with exquisite materials, but also contained the cultural color of Confucianism and elegance and the noble style of the royal family. Later, it was passed from the court to the people, and was loved by people from all walks of life, and became the first choice for the exchange of courtesies and gifts for the people of Beijing for a long time.